Overclocking Multiplier Change no effect?

[kYmo]

Hi,

So i'm a noob at Overclocking it's my first time, after following an Ivy bridge overclocking guide i just can't get my head around what i'm doing wrong and why my settings are not taking effect...

Things i've tried,Turbo Boost is enabled so it's not that, changed the power plan settings in windows to balanced, i've tried offset mode with +005%, changing the multiplier setting to Manual(which turns Turboboost off for some reason?)

When i use Asus AI Suite to Overclock in windows with TurboV EVO + Digi + Power Control it works with just a multiplier bump to 41 and but my Vcore voltage goes to 1.321 and my temps are just hitting 70c so i want to try and see if i can achieve better results via Bios.

Specs: i5-3570k
Mobo: Asus P8Z77-V
Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX
Ram: G-skill Ripjaws 8gb(2x4gb) 1600Mhz Cl9
Psu: Corsair HX-650W Pro Modular

Here's my Uefi Bios settings...

It says 1600MHz because i'm on Balanced power plan when i'm on high performance or my own plan it's 3400Mhz stock.

Sorry for bad quality i couldn't find my USB stick for screenshots.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Multipack]

What do you mean by not taking effect?

Turbo Boost should get disabled if you adjust multiplier.

 

[kYmo]

What do you mean by not taking effect?

Turbo Boost should get disabled if you adjust multiplier.

As in the CPU speed stays at stock multiplier and MHz and I was under the impression after reading online that Intel Turbo Boost has to be enabled in order for any Multiplier change to take effect am I wrong?

Thanks

 

[amtseung]

IIRC, there's two "methodologies" to overclocking Intel processors.

The first one is the balls-to-the-wall method, where you turn off every power saving feature and every feature that could touch your voltage, force a constant CPU voltage, adjust for VDroop or run LLC, and just smash its face against the wall and run that OC 24/7. Full speed, full voltage, all the time. This is generally how AMD CPU overclocks are done, because garbage CPU needs many workarounds to keep it stable. This is also generally how overclocking for beginners, and overclocking on extreme cooling are done, because overclock stability is much better when your voltage isn't jumping around like a caffeinated child on a trampoline.

The second method is a turbo overclock, where your CPU won't really run at maximum speed until turbo BOOSTO is supposed to kick in, then it applies your "overclock". This is what I assume you've done since you've entered a 41 multiplier into the turbo ratio, and left CPU ratio at "auto". In order to see the full effects of this kind of overclocking, you'd have to load up your CPU enough that turbo kicks in, then you'll see that massive jump in clock speeds that wets them panties.

I'm not sure what guide you followed, but I'd leave that CPU voltage on auto. If you really need to make adjustments, use offset mode. Also, for stability testing, I'd bump up how aggressively the Load Line Calibration behaves by one setting before changing any voltage manually.

Leave the CPUID maximum alone.

TBH, I'd recommend overclocking following the first method as a beginner, not the more complicated second method. By looking at your pictures, I have a gut feeling you don't quite know what all these settings do. Changing them blindly is not good for you or the computer. Here's what I think you should do:
1.) Clear CMOS.
2.) Disable EIST, Intel Speedstep, Turbo Boost, and C states.
3.) Set CPU Load Line Calibration to the next, more aggressive step. (Medium? Above normal?)
4.) Enter all changes to the CPU multiplier directly into the line marked "CPU Ratio", and not "Turbo Ratio".
5.) If any voltage changes are needed, enter them only in offset mode.
6.) Turn off XMP until you have your desired stable CPU overclock. There are times when XMP can screw with CPU settings.
7.) Don't rush this process. It takes time. Lots of time.

 

[kYmo]

IIRC, there's two "methodologies" to overclocking Intel processors.

The first one is the balls-to-the-wall method, where you turn off every power saving feature and every feature that could touch your voltage, force a constant CPU voltage, adjust for VDroop or run LLC, and just smash its face against the wall and run that OC 24/7. Full speed, full voltage, all the time. This is generally how AMD CPU overclocks are done, because garbage CPU needs many workarounds to keep it stable. This is also generally how overclocking for beginners, and overclocking on extreme cooling are done, because overclock stability is much better when your voltage isn't jumping around like a caffeinated child on a trampoline.

The second method is a turbo overclock, where your CPU won't really run at maximum speed until turbo BOOSTO is supposed to kick in, then it applies your "overclock". This is what I assume you've done since you've entered a 41 multiplier into the turbo ratio, and left CPU ratio at "auto". In order to see the full effects of this kind of overclocking, you'd have to load up your CPU enough that turbo kicks in, then you'll see that massive jump in clock speeds that wets them panties.

I'm not sure what guide you followed, but I'd leave that CPU voltage on auto. If you really need to make adjustments, use offset mode. Also, for stability testing, I'd bump up how aggressively the Load Line Calibration behaves by one setting before changing any voltage manually.

Leave the CPUID maximum alone.

TBH, I'd recommend overclocking following the first method as a beginner, not the more complicated second method. By looking at your pictures, I have a gut feeling you don't quite know what all these settings do. Changing them blindly is not good for you or the computer. Here's what I think you should do:
1.) Clear CMOS.
2.) Disable EIST, Intel Speedstep, Turbo Boost, and C states.
3.) Set CPU Load Line Calibration to the next, more aggressive step. (Medium? Above normal?)
4.) Enter all changes to the CPU multiplier directly into the line marked "CPU Ratio", and not "Turbo Ratio".
5.) If any voltage changes are needed, enter them only in offset mode.
6.) Turn off XMP until you have your desired stable CPU overclock. There are times when XMP can screw with CPU settings.
7.) Don't rush this process. It takes time. Lots of time.

Thanks for the response!

I did have LLC on Medium to start with but put it to regular to see if that was the cause, also i had the c states disabled besides the first one. This is the guide i followed http://(sorry if linking is disallowed)


Yeah that is the type of overclock i was going for only to kick in when turbo kicks in for the power savings at idle as i don't see the point in having the vcore high all the time and cpu at 100% state with an OC i think that would just burn the cpu out sooner.

Oh and when i have offset mode enabled i can't set the Vcore manually it's greyed out... is this normal?

I will try the methods you suggested and get back to you with the results

 

[amtseung]

Thanks for the response!

I did have LLC on Medium to start with but put it to regular to see if that was the cause, also i had the c states disabled besides the first one. This is the guide i followed http://(sorry if linking is disallowed)


Yeah that is the type of overclock i was going for only to kick in when turbo kicks in for the power savings at idle as i don't see the point in having the vcore high all the time and cpu at 100% state with an OC i think that would just burn the cpu out sooner.

Oh and when i have offset mode enabled i can't set the Vcore manually it's greyed out... is this normal?

I will try the methods you suggested and get back to you with the results

I would imagine linking is allowed, if it's appropriate to what you're describing and provides valuable context.

Leave the LLC on Medium then. Your voltages don't look too swell at idle, so imagining what they'd be under load, I think it'd like a nice little extra kick in the behind.

You didn't follow the guide. The guide said to adjust core multiplier, not turbo multiplier.

Turbo overclocks are an extremely finicky thing. First of all, you have to know how turbo works: The speed it reaches when all 4 cores are under load is not the speed it reaches when only 1-2 cores are under load, let alone the voltages and durations of the turbo-ness. I suggest you do some reading on how intel turbo actually works, and what it actually accomplishes.

There's nothing wrong with making turbo run faster though, you just won't actually see much benefit without also increasing the core multiplier as well. There's also nothing wrong with leaving all the power savings features on. You just won't have as high of a stable overclock. If you leave C-states and EIST on, disable turbo, and enter your desired multiplier value into the CPU core ratio box instead, I think that's the desired effect you're looking for. The CPU will still idle properly since the power savings are enabled, but once you place the CPU under load, it'll kick into high gear and hit the clock speeds you entered in bios. If you change the turbo multiplier and leave the core multiplier alone, it'll only reach 4.1ghz when it turbos on 2 cores only (which is like, never), and will still sit at 3.7ghz under full load, which is why you saw absolutely no change.

You can only change voltage on offset mode, or manual mode. You can't do both. To prevent corrupting the bios, it doesn't let you change via method B if method A is enabled, and vice versa. And so, manual entry is greyed out if offset mode is enabled. And just as a heads up, if you're leaving your power savings stuff enabled, manual voltage is usually a very, very bad idea, since it forces a constant voltage, the opposite of saving power Imagine your CPU idling at 0.8ghz at 1.3V, and running full load at 4.1ghz at 1.3V, no power was saved.

 

[amtseung]

Thanks for the response!

I did have LLC on Medium to start with but put it to regular to see if that was the cause, also i had the c states disabled besides the first one. This is the guide i followed http://(sorry if linking is disallowed)


Yeah that is the type of overclock i was going for only to kick in when turbo kicks in for the power savings at idle as i don't see the point in having the vcore high all the time and cpu at 100% state with an OC i think that would just burn the cpu out sooner.

Oh and when i have offset mode enabled i can't set the Vcore manually it's greyed out... is this normal?

I will try the methods you suggested and get back to you with the results

I would imagine linking is allowed, if it's appropriate to what you're describing and provides valuable context.

Leave the LLC on Medium then. Your voltages don't look too swell at idle, so imagining what they'd be under load, I think it'd like a nice little extra kick in the behind.

You didn't follow the guide. The guide said to adjust core multiplier, not turbo multiplier.

Turbo overclocks are an extremely finicky thing. First of all, you have to know how turbo works: The speed it reaches when all 4 cores are under load is not the speed it reaches when only 1-2 cores are under load, let alone the voltages and durations of the turbo-ness. I suggest you do some reading on how intel turbo actually works, and what it actually accomplishes.

There's nothing wrong with making turbo run faster though, you just won't actually see much benefit without also increasing the core multiplier as well. There's also nothing wrong with leaving all the power savings features on. You just won't have as high of a stable overclock. If you leave C-states and EIST on, disable turbo, and enter your desired multiplier value into the CPU core ratio box instead, I think that's the desired effect you're looking for. The CPU will still idle properly since the power savings are enabled, but once you place the CPU under load, it'll kick into high gear and hit the clock speeds you entered in bios. If you change the turbo multiplier and leave the core multiplier alone, it'll only reach 4.1ghz when it turbos on 2 cores only (which is like, never), and will still sit at 3.7ghz under full load, which is why you saw absolutely no change.

You can only change voltage on offset mode, or manual mode. You can't do both. To prevent corrupting the bios, it doesn't let you change via method B if method A is enabled, and vice versa. And so, manual entry is greyed out if offset mode is enabled. And just as a heads up, if you're leaving your power savings stuff enabled, manual voltage is usually a very, very bad idea, since it forces a constant voltage, the opposite of saving power Imagine your CPU idling at 0.8ghz at 1.3V, and running full load at 4.1ghz at 1.3V, no power was saved. Offset mode, well, offsets the entire range of voltages by the given amount whether it's a value of percentages or millivolts.

 

[kYmo]

Thanks for the response!

I did have LLC on Medium to start with but put it to regular to see if that was the cause, also i had the c states disabled besides the first one. This is the guide i followed http://(sorry if linking is disallowed)


Yeah that is the type of overclock i was going for only to kick in when turbo kicks in for the power savings at idle as i don't see the point in having the vcore high all the time and cpu at 100% state with an OC i think that would just burn the cpu out sooner.

Oh and when i have offset mode enabled i can't set the Vcore manually it's greyed out... is this normal?

I will try the methods you suggested and get back to you with the results

I would imagine linking is allowed, if it's appropriate to what you're describing and provides valuable context.

Leave the LLC on Medium then. Your voltages don't look too swell at idle, so imagining what they'd be under load, I think it'd like a nice little extra kick in the behind.

You didn't follow the guide. The guide said to adjust core multiplier, not turbo multiplier.

Turbo overclocks are an extremely finicky thing. First of all, you have to know how turbo works: The speed it reaches when all 4 cores are under load is not the speed it reaches when only 1-2 cores are under load, let alone the voltages and durations of the turbo-ness. I suggest you do some reading on how intel turbo actually works, and what it actually accomplishes.

There's nothing wrong with making turbo run faster though, you just won't actually see much benefit without also increasing the core multiplier as well. There's also nothing wrong with leaving all the power savings features on. You just won't have as high of a stable overclock. If you leave C-states and EIST on, disable turbo, and enter your desired multiplier value into the CPU core ratio box instead, I think that's the desired effect you're looking for. The CPU will still idle properly since the power savings are enabled, but once you place the CPU under load, it'll kick into high gear and hit the clock speeds you entered in bios. If you change the turbo multiplier and leave the core multiplier alone, it'll only reach 4.1ghz when it turbos on 2 cores only (which is like, never), and will still sit at 3.7ghz under full load, which is why you saw absolutely no change.

You can only change voltage on offset mode, or manual mode. You can't do both. To prevent corrupting the bios, it doesn't let you change via method B if method A is enabled, and vice versa. And so, manual entry is greyed out if offset mode is enabled. And just as a heads up, if you're leaving your power savings stuff enabled, manual voltage is usually a very, very bad idea, since it forces a constant voltage, the opposite of saving power Imagine your CPU idling at 0.8ghz at 1.3V, and running full load at 4.1ghz at 1.3V, no power was saved. Offset mode, well, offsets the entire range of voltages by the given amount whether it's a value of percentages or millivolts.

So i tried everything you suggested...

still no change according to CPUZ and i tried the different power plans in windows and ran Prime95 for stress testing and it shows at 3.5Ghz strangely enough? also when i set the multiplier to 41 with EIST and Turbo disabled it re-enables then automatically unless i restore the bios to default?

i've played around with quite a few things you suggested, i even input 1.35Vcore manually instead of using offset to see if that might work but nada 🙁.

I'm at an end i really don't know why this isn't working i think it's going to be some stupid setting i've missed...

I'm going to try and set a smaller bump in the multiplier see if that helps...

 

[amtseung]

still no change according to CPUZ and i tried the different power plans in windows and ran Prime95 for stress testing and it shows at 3.5Ghz strangely enough? also when i set the multiplier to 41 with EIST and Turbo disabled it re-enables then automatically unless i restore the bios to default?

The first thing I said to do was clear CMOS. Not just restore defaults, wipe all changes to the bios on a hardware level. This will prevent random settings you've changed and forgotten about from creating conflicts within itself like this. Look at your screenshot of CPU-Z. See where it says "Multiplier x 16.0 (16-35)"? Why 35? Isn't the maximum stock clock speed 34? If it were doing some enhanced turbo type thing, it would say 16-38 within the paretheses. If you had entered a multiplier of 41 into the CPU ratio box and the change stayed, it should be saying "Multiplier x 41.0 (16-34)" when under load. Something's not right. Clear CMOS. Make sure everything is normal again before you start changing settings again. As a general rule of thumb, change as little as possible to get what you want.

(Oh right, that's another thing, EIST, Package C-states, and Speedstep go hand in hand. All on, or all off. In your case, keep them on, turn off turbo only. Attempting to keep some on and some off can do weird and unexpected things.)

The next thing is to keep XMP disabled. It's designed to screw with your bios, because even though it gives overclockers a migraine, it benefits the average user who doesn't overclock. Keep it off.

Sorry I listed the wrong clock speeds before. I hope you get the idea though.

 

[kYmo]

still no change according to CPUZ and i tried the different power plans in windows and ran Prime95 for stress testing and it shows at 3.5Ghz strangely enough? also when i set the multiplier to 41 with EIST and Turbo disabled it re-enables then automatically unless i restore the bios to default?

The first thing I said to do was clear CMOS. Not just restore defaults, wipe all changes to the bios on a hardware level. This will prevent random settings you've changed and forgotten about from creating conflicts within itself like this. Look at your screenshot of CPU-Z. See where it says "Multiplier x 16.0 (16-35)"? Why 35? Isn't the maximum stock clock speed 34? If it were doing some enhanced turbo type thing, it would say 16-38 within the paretheses. If you had entered a multiplier of 41 into the CPU ratio box and the change stayed, it should be saying "Multiplier x 41.0 (16-34)" when under load. Something's not right. Clear CMOS. Make sure everything is normal again before you start changing settings again. As a general rule of thumb, change as little as possible to get what you want.

(Oh right, that's another thing, EIST, Package C-states, and Speedstep go hand in hand. All on, or all off. In your case, keep them on, turn off turbo only. Attempting to keep some on and some off can do weird and unexpected things.)

The next thing is to keep XMP disabled. It's designed to screw with your bios, because even though it gives overclockers a migraine, it benefits the average user who doesn't overclock. Keep it off.

Sorry I listed the wrong clock speeds before. I hope you get the idea though.

Thanks pal i will clear CMOS properly now and let you know how it goes thanks for your help!

 

[kYmo]

still no change according to CPUZ and i tried the different power plans in windows and ran Prime95 for stress testing and it shows at 3.5Ghz strangely enough? also when i set the multiplier to 41 with EIST and Turbo disabled it re-enables then automatically unless i restore the bios to default?

The first thing I said to do was clear CMOS. Not just restore defaults, wipe all changes to the bios on a hardware level. This will prevent random settings you've changed and forgotten about from creating conflicts within itself like this. Look at your screenshot of CPU-Z. See where it says "Multiplier x 16.0 (16-35)"? Why 35? Isn't the maximum stock clock speed 34? If it were doing some enhanced turbo type thing, it would say 16-38 within the paretheses. If you had entered a multiplier of 41 into the CPU ratio box and the change stayed, it should be saying "Multiplier x 41.0 (16-34)" when under load. Something's not right. Clear CMOS. Make sure everything is normal again before you start changing settings again. As a general rule of thumb, change as little as possible to get what you want.

(Oh right, that's another thing, EIST, Package C-states, and Speedstep go hand in hand. All on, or all off. In your case, keep them on, turn off turbo only. Attempting to keep some on and some off can do weird and unexpected things.)

The next thing is to keep XMP disabled. It's designed to screw with your bios, because even though it gives overclockers a migraine, it benefits the average user who doesn't overclock. Keep it off.

Sorry I listed the wrong clock speeds before. I hope you get the idea though.

Ok so clearing CMOS did the trick i did it and changed the Ai Overclock Tuner to "Manual" and set the "CPU Ratio" to 38 and CPUZ now displays the correct core speed and multiplier (3.8Ghz 16-38)

I will continue to tinker and let you know my results thanks allot!! 😉

 

[kYmo]

Ok so i just disabled all the C steps/EIST and switched from offset to manual Vcore Voltage, set it to 1.25v and i've effectly lowered the temps by 9-12c on a 10 minute Prime95 stress/heat test. I will run it for 8 hours for stability and a more accurate result.

 

[amtseung]

Glad to see it's working now.

I totally forgot about that sh!tfest that is auto-overclocking utilities in general. xD

 

[kYmo]

Glad to see it's working now.

I totally forgot about that sh!tfest that is auto-overclocking utilities in general. xD

Yeah lol

Heres my results so far.

set it back to offset as 1.250-1.3v is unstable @ x41 and above.

set multiplier to x40 EIST disabled, all c steps disabled, turbo boost disabled(obviously)

Vcore goes to 1.336 max hovers around 1.321-1.336 under load and temps don't go above 70.

In Battlefield 1 my cpu is no longer bottlenecking and hitting 100% all the time which is awesome and i'm getting 60fps stable on most maps only drops a few times here and there on certain maps which i'm sure my new gpu will solve!

Thanks again for your help amtseung sir i salute you!

 

[madmatt30]

Good results but I would check your h100i mate because in all honesty even at that overclock you shouldn't be seeing above 60c IMO.

 

[kYmo]

Good results but I would check your h100i mate because in all honesty even at that overclock you shouldn't be seeing above 60c IMO.

I'll have a look, how often are you meant to change out the water? i haven't touched it since i've had it and i bought it back in November 2015.

Thanks for the tip

 

[amtseung]

I'll have a look, how often are you meant to change out the water? i haven't touched it since i've had it and i bought it back in November 2015. Thanks for the tip

One does not simply change out the water of an AIO. If your H100i is anything like my now defunct H100i, it'll last exactly 22 months, and then the pump will begin to fail, and air will also begin to slowly seep into the system. An extremely slow evaporation of the water inside will happen inevitably, and same with cavitation of the pump.

For reference, it used to keep a 5.1-5.2ghz @1.66V FX8320 at a 55C maximum when it was new. Now it can barely keep an idle i5 4460 at 55C. It makes a gurgling sound much akin to a drowning human, and the whole system remains stone cold the entire time.

TL;DR AIO's will inevitably die. It's just a matter of time.

 

[kYmo]

I'll have a look, how often are you meant to change out the water? i haven't touched it since i've had it and i bought it back in November 2015. Thanks for the tip

One does not simply change out the water of an AIO. If your H100i is anything like my now defunct H100i, it'll last exactly 22 months, and then the pump will begin to fail, and air will also begin to slowly seep into the system. An extremely slow evaporation of the water inside will happen inevitably, and same with cavitation of the pump.

For reference, it used to keep a 5.1-5.2ghz @1.66V FX8320 at a 55C maximum when it was new. Now it can barely keep an idle i5 4460 at 55C. It makes a gurgling sound much akin to a drowning human, and the whole system remains stone cold the entire time.

TL;DR AIO's will inevitably die. It's just a matter of time.

Thanks for your reply i will keep an eye on my temps from now on.