Overclocking my system

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Darkbreeze
Cinebench does NOT determine system stability. 8 hours of Realbench plus 8 hours of Prime95 version 26.6 Blend mode, pretty much does. As much as anything is ever going to anyhow. There are no quick and easy ways to determine stability and anybody who says you can run a 15 minute or less test and feel confident that the system is stable is just fooling themselves and others. Because you can't. You fiddle with overclocking hardware and you NEED to put in the work to ensure that the system is stable.

Yeah, people run unstable systems all the time. And then six months later when the incremental errors that have crept into the system start causing problems, they insist that it's because of a bad windows update or a piece of faulty hardware...
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Making it last is ALWAYS an issue, because it will probably NOT be just the CPU that you damage by overclocking with the stock cooler. The motherboard and memory are also factors for damage. There is never any situation where you can say "I'm not worried about this component" because ALL other components are always at risk when one component is at risk, whether overclocking or something else.

Do NOT attempt to run ANY overclock using the stock cooler. Bad idea. Don't do it.
 
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Even if I attempt to OC my graphics card or RAM?
 
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Overclocking RAM (Not including the XMP profile) is mostly pointless, as there are very little gains to be had AND it will require tens of hours to properly configure overclocked memory settings and test them for stability. Running the XMP profile value is always the best option if the board supports that.

Overclocking the graphics card is an entirely different subject, not relevant to the question of overclocking the CPU or memory. If your case has very good cooling, with sufficient number of fans, and you have an adequate power supply of good quality, then overclocking the graphics card is entirely up to personal need and choice.

Overclocking the CPU, on the Ryzen platform, USUALLY only offers minor benefits, but might be worth it IF you have adequate case and CPU cooling. Without them, it should not be done. If you do not have two 120mm or larger intake fans, and two 120mm or larger exhaust fans, AND at least a decent aftermarket cooler, don't even attempt it. You are likely to cause thermal damage to the CPU or motherboard.

If you have adequate cooling for the level of overclock you wish to pursue, then it also your choice.
 
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Ok! My case has 3 120mm intake fans, and one smaller exhaust fan. Before you call me stupid, I will upgrade my cooling. I had that in mind when I spend 6 months making this parts list. Later on I’ll upgrade to liquid cooling, and I definitely will add more fans. I just wanted to know my options.
 
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I would not ever call you stupid for trying to learn or expand your skillset. It would be counterproductive to call somebody stupid and then try to teach them something. There are plenty of people out there who are stupid. You are not one, because you CAME HERE instead of thinking to just do whatever without knowing what you are doing. Never fear, I will not call you stupid and do not think that you are.

Liquid cooling is another story and I am not a big fan, although it certainly has it's place and for some systems makes a lot of sense. Just for overclocking purposes alone, maybe not so much. Many CPU air coolers perform just as well as the majority of AIO closed loop coolers. You only really see much benefit from liquid cooling in the area of aesthetics OR when you use a large cooler that is 240mm or larger. Preferably, if overclocking, 280mm or larger.

For Ryzen, you're probably not going to be able to achieve a big enough overclock to make that worth it, at least not for thermal purposes. I'd stick with a good air cooler unless you simply want the AIO for looks as well.

You could overclock that CPU, to whatever degree you are able, using something like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU Cooler: Thermalright - Macho Rev.B 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.90 @ Amazon)
Total: $49.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-15 17:06 EST-0500


Or this, which is just a bit better:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-U14S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($63.69 @ Newegg)
Total: $63.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-15 17:06 EST-0500

Both will do the job on that CPU, easily.
 
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Ok! Thank you very much!

I assume that the stock cooker will keep everything adequately cooled for light gaming, right? Or will I have to invest in something else before I decide to run something like Overwatch or CS:GO
 
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Ok! If I were to get a better cooler soon, would you have any recommendations under $30 USD?
 
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The least expensive cooler I'd recommend for that configuration, if you plan to do ANY overclocking of the CPU, would be this. So I'd save a few more bucks and THEN pull the trigger.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49 CFM CPU Cooler ($38.00 @ Amazon)
Total: $38.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-16 01:22 EST-0500

But it would be a LOT better to go with the Macho rev.B is listed earlier.


If there is no chance you can scrape the funds together for either of those, then in a real pinch you could get by with a Deepcool Gammaxx 400, which is a better performer than the Hyper 212 coolers, but I'd be hesitant to overclock with it if you dislike loud fans because it's probably going to be at least semi-loud.
 
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I watched some video tutorials with the stock cooler and saw that with an overclock to 2.7 GHZ the temps get to 67 under load, which is perfectly fine by all my standards.

PS: I already ordered all my parts, but I’ll get a better cooler in around 2 weeks.
 
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2.7Ghz is lower than the stock clock speed. Either that number is wrong or the temperature is wrong. Regardless, just because some idiot with his CPU clock speed kicked up a few notches and WITHOUT sufficient voltage for it to actually be stable, made a 5 minute video showing it COULD be done on the stock cooler, does not mean

1. It's a good idea

2. The system was even remotely stable. Just because it didn't blue screen, restart or freeze, doesn't mean it is stable. It is still very likely NOT stable and although it might not immediately affect the system, it will eventually by introducing micro errors that will corrupt the system and THEN you will see plenty of blue screens, restarts or other signs of corruption.

3. That it is even real. Half of what you see on Youtube, if not from a trustworthy source like an official channel for one of the major review sites, is faked or so taken out of context that it might as well be faked.

Get a good cooler before you overclock and then before you do, take the time to read my overclocking guide AND a Ryzen specific overclocking guide several times until you fully understand what exactly it is that you are doing, before you do it.

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-3761568/beginners-guide-overclocking-cpu-explicit-testing-guidelines.html


And if you have memory issues, read my memory guide as well.

*Resolving memory problems and setting up XMP/DOCP/AMP profiles
 
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Sorry, I meant 3.7 GHz. I’ll try and find the video, but he did run cinebench and the system proved to be stable, however the video could have been faked. I’ll take your advice and not overclock.

Would you know the load temps with the stock cooler? And would disabling the igpu (I’m using a RX 570) cool the system even more?
 
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Cinebench does NOT determine system stability. 8 hours of Realbench plus 8 hours of Prime95 version 26.6 Blend mode, pretty much does. As much as anything is ever going to anyhow. There are no quick and easy ways to determine stability and anybody who says you can run a 15 minute or less test and feel confident that the system is stable is just fooling themselves and others. Because you can't. You fiddle with overclocking hardware and you NEED to put in the work to ensure that the system is stable.

Yeah, people run unstable systems all the time. And then six months later when the incremental errors that have crept into the system start causing problems, they insist that it's because of a bad windows update or a piece of faulty hardware or a bad driver or anything other than what it actually is, and then need to reinstall Windows but by then all of their personal files like movies, music, documents, saved game files or anything else that has been regularly accessed and re-written are all likely affected.

This is especially true of unstable memory configurations, but to some degree is equally true with CPU configurations as well. It is not a joke. It is damn serious.

Disabling the integrated graphics shouldn't make any difference at all unless you are currently USING them. Otherwise, they are just sitting there doing nothing if no display cable is attached to the motherboard output.

I'm not saying you shouldn't overclock, I'm just saying that when you are ready to, you should do it right.
 
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