Overheating CPU...

bosshoss

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Aug 20, 2004
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Can a bad psu cause a CPU to overheat? My problem is that I just pulled my old 2400+ out to put in my dads comp that has been having probs as of lately and as soon as I got the comp to post it idles at 62c and will start to load windows for a fresh install and then completely lock up, I have tried all of the other components in my rig and everything works fine no probs, the only culprit that is left is the psu, but b4 I go out and spend 60bux for an ANTEC, I thought I would ask you guys what ya thought. The only other thing is that I bought him a new mobo, an amptron m7ncd, crappy I know but he doesnt care, could it just be a bad mobo ya think?

Thanx guys

<i> If the creator of the human body is "The Ultimate Engineer", why did he put a recreation site right next to a waste treatment area? </i>
 
No, a PSU cannot cause it the overheat. The mobo is still responsible for giving the x-amount of juice to the chip. Amptron mobo? Need I say more?

Check for latest bios and all that lovely crap but I really think you needs to ditch that mobo. Mobos is the one product you do not wanna go cheap one since it regulate and controls the fate of the rest of your compsnents.

<i><font color=red>Only an overclocker can make a computer into a convectional oven.</i></font color=red>
 
The board could be misreading the temperatures. If you just replaced the board you could also have poor contact between the heatsink and CPU. Check the heatsink to see if it's warm or hot.

Power supplies don't normally cause overheating, but electrical noise can raise heat. I wouldn't bother with an Antec when a better Fortron Source would cost less money. But I don't see anything to indicate a power problem.

<font color=blue>Only a place as big as the internet could be home to a hero as big as Crashman!</font color=blue>
<font color=red>Only a place as big as the internet could be home to an ego as large as Crashman's!</font color=red>
 
It is possible that the 3.3 rail is fluctating enough to cause memory problems. If that is the case, it would play havoc with the filters in voltage regulation on the board. Yes overheating there could cause the chip to overheat.
Simple check would be to use your psu, to test. You could also use a good quality DMM to check the psu outputs.
 
It's weird, thing is the heatsink is VERY hot so I think that the temp readings are correct. I am absolutely stumped as to what the prob is. I just went and exchanged the board and same thing. I bought the new PSU anyway bcuzz I wanted a new one and still same thing. Tried diff vid card, nuttin. Tried everything from mine and same thing, the cpu overheats rapidly and then shuts down. The CPU works fine when I put it in my computer so I have no clue, could I have gotten 2 bad mobos in a row?

<i> If the creator of the human body is "The Ultimate Engineer", why did he put a recreation site right next to a waste treatment area? </i><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by BossHoss on 09/14/04 11:19 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
 
If the heatsink is very hot that means theres decent conductivity between the core and hsf. What kind of heatsink is it, and is it the same as you were using before. The fan may be going out on it. Try a different fan header on the mobo to rule out a bad fan header. (or a different fan if that dosent work).



:wink: Heatsinks, if you dont overclock, use the <b>STOCK!</b> :wink:
 
The heatsink wouldn't be that hot if he didn't. All TIMs do is move the heat from the core (or the IHS) to the HSF, which has tons more surface area and a fan. TIMs don't actually cool anything.

Maxtor disgraces the six letters that make Matrox.
 
Check the temprature / voltage monitoring in the bios - see if its at the correct voltage (around 1.75v ?) (around it +/- 0.10), if theres the option check the fsb if its at the correct fsb (133 / 266), if all is what it should be - experiment - (if you can) by underclock the fsb. Also - check the ram and its timings, knock them all back. See how that goes.
 
If I underclock the fsb to 100 instead of 133, it runs around 45c, and then hits about 53c when I try to load windows and locks up again, I am at my wits end so I am going to return this pile of dung mobo, and order a new one from newegg. It has to be the mobo. Has anyone else ever got two bad ones in a row?

<i> If the creator of the human body is "The Ultimate Engineer", why did he put a recreation site right next to a waste treatment area? </i>
 
No! The odds in that is something like 244:1

Abit IS7 - 3.0C @ 3.6ghz - Mushkin PC4000 (2 X 512) - Sapphire 9800Pro - TT 420 watt Pure Power
Samsung 120gb ATA-100 - Maxtor 40gb ATA - 100
Sony DRU-510A - Yellowtail Merlot
 
I've NEVER seen Matisaro's posts and I've been a member longer than you! How long did it take you to post after you started reading???

Maxtor disgraces the six letters that make Matrox.
 
I was late in registering as a forum member and rarely post messages but I assure you I've known THG since the sysdoc.pair.com days.
 
THIS PILE OF CRAP!!!!!!!!!! I decided to try it one more time b4 I boxed it up to take it back. I entered the BIOS to see if there was something I hadnt tried setting diff. Well, I figured what they hey, I'll disable CPU thermal throttling bcuzz I aint gonna overclock anyway, well BAM! Problem gone it loads up windows, temps are now normal, idles 38c full load 44c. WTF?!?!?!?

EDIT: Well after loading windows now it randomly locks up. I have a new PSU in it, but the +12V rail reads 11.34, this seems dangerously low to me, anyone else? I think the culprit (believe it or not) might be a bad light socket, my dummmy dad isnt even using so much as a cheap surge protector and everytime we have a storm funny things start happening to his comp, guess I shouldve asked him b4 but I was in a hurry to put it together. And by the way, what rail is the most Voltage sensitive, I mean, which one affects the system more when it runs lower than spec?

<i> If the creator of the human body is "The Ultimate Engineer", why did he put a recreation site right next to a waste treatment area? </i><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by BossHoss on 09/16/04 06:00 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
 
The 12v rail powers up motors like floppy motor. Unplug each of the drives, one at a time to see, if one is causing the problem. (I bet floppy though cd is a close second)
The 3.3 rail is the most crucial.