Question Overheating CPU?

May 30, 2020
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So I recently got a lot of crashes when playing games. It aren't particulary crashes but my system just shuts down to prevent my CPU from overheating ( I think). The fans also start running at max speed when this happens. Yesterday I installed Core Temp to look at the temperature and when playing games all the cores of my CPU were 90+ celcius. Also, this happened 1 day after I installed my new RAM. Could this be the issue?
My specs:
i7 7700k 4.2ghz
GTX 1070 Ti 8GB
MSI MAG Z270
32GB HyperX DDR4-3200 RAM
500GB kingston SSD
2TB HDD
500GB HDD
2 fans
1 cpu cooler

What I've tried so far:
  • Increase fan speed
  • Apply new thermal paste
  • Ordered new fans, installing them tomorrow
None of these have worked for me so far. Please help me, I can't play ANY game normal anymore.
 
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Tioym

Proper
Apr 5, 2020
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highly unlikely the ram is the issue. Try taking out a single stick of ram and perform a stress test, then take out the other and put the first one back in and perform the stress test. If a stick is faulty you'll know.
Ram issue is unlikely but both sticks being bad is ever more unlikely
 
May 30, 2020
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highly unlikely the ram is the issue. Try taking out a single stick of ram and perform a stress test, then take out the other and put the first one back in and perform the stress test. If a stick is faulty you'll know.
Ram issue is unlikely but both sticks being bad is ever more unlikely
Yeah I'm planning on doing that, I'll test it in a bit and see if anything changes.
 
What is the make and model of your PSU? There is also an error in your system specs, a Z390 motherboard cannot run a 7700K, it can run 8700K and 9700K. Either your board is a Z270 board, or your CPU is different. Please clarify. Also, try using HWInfo64 for reading temps, might be a faulty app that shows incorrect temps and something else could be the issue.
 
May 30, 2020
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What is the make and model of your PSU? There is also an error in your system specs, a Z390 motherboard cannot run a 7700K, it can run 8700K and 9700K. Either your board is a Z270 board, or your CPU is different. Please clarify. Also, try using HWInfo64 for reading temps, might be a faulty app that shows incorrect temps and something else could be the issue.
Sorry mb, it's a z270, I'll edit it. I'll download that right now too. I only know I have a 700W PSU from Coolermaster.


ofcourse make sure you do the stress test on stock settings before. If the stress test cant even crash your current setup then you wont really find the problem
Yeah Ill do that



I installed HWInfo64 and it also gives those high temperatures. I opened my case and noticed that the air wasn't that hot inside, it seemed fine to me.
 
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To test your new ram,
Run memtest86.
It boots from a usb stick and does not use windows.
You can download the free edition here:
https://www.memtest86.com/download.htm

If you can run a full pass with NO errors, your ram should be ok.

What is the make/model of your cooler, case, and psu?
I ask about the psu because some cm models are not very good.

What is your cpu temperature at idle?
If it is much more than 10-15c. over ambient, then there is a problem with your cooler.
Possibly it was dislodged during the ram install.
Any cooler needs a good source of fresh intake air to let it do it's job.
Your case and fan arrangement play a part in that.
As a temporary measure, take the case covers off and direct a house fan at the innards.
If this helps much, look to case cooling solutions.
 
May 30, 2020
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To test your new ram,
Run memtest86.
It boots from a usb stick and does not use windows.
You can download the free edition here:
https://www.memtest86.com/download.htm

If you can run a full pass with NO errors, your ram should be ok.

What is the make/model of your cooler, case, and psu?
I ask about the psu because some cm models are not very good.

What is your cpu temperature at idle?
If it is much more than 10-15c. over ambient, then there is a problem with your cooler.
Possibly it was dislodged during the ram install.
Any cooler needs a good source of fresh intake air to let it do it's job.
Your case and fan arrangement play a part in that.
As a temporary measure, take the case covers off and direct a house fan at the innards.
If this helps much, look to case cooling solutions.
Thank you for your response. I will run memtest tomorrow and see if there are any issues.
I'm going to clean my pc in a bit, so I'll tell you the exact model when I opened it.
My CPU temperature right now is 70 degrees on average, with only google, HWMonitor and Task Manager left open.
I'm going to clean all the dust right now, apply new thermal paste and install my 3 new case fans. If this doesn't have any effect I'll try to figure out if the RAM is the issue or not.

I'll keep you guys updated.
 
70c. at idle is too hot.
It indicates a problem with your cpu cooler.
On the off chance that you are using the stock intel cooler, here is how to mount it:
----------------how to mount the stock Intel cooler--------------

The stock Intel cooler can be tricky to install.
A poor installation will result in higher cpu temperatures.
If properly mounted, you should expect temperatures at idle to be 10-15c. over ambient.

To mount the Intel stock cooler properly, place the motherboard on top of the foam or cardboard backing that was packed with the motherboard.
The stock cooler will come with paste pre applied, it looks like three grey strips.
The 4 push pins should come in the proper position for installation, that is with the pins rotated in the opposite direction of the arrow,(clockwise)
and pulled up as far as they can go.
Take the time to play with the pushpin mechanism until you know how they work.

Orient the 4 pins so that they are exactly over the motherboard holes.
If one is out of place, you will damage the pins which are delicate.
Push down on a DIAGONAL pair of pins at the same time. Then the other pair.

When you push down on the top black pins, it expands the white plastic pins to fix the cooler in place.

If you do them one at a time, you will not get the cooler on straight.
Lastly, look at the back of the motherboard to verify that all 4 pins are equally through the motherboard, and that the cooler is on firmly.
This last step must be done, which is why the motherboard should be out of the case to do the job. Or you need a case with a opening that lets you see the pins.
It is possible to mount the cooler with the motherboard mounted in the case, but you can then never be certain that the push pins are inserted properly
unless you can verify that the pins are through the motherboard and locked.

If you should need to remove the cooler, turn the pins counter clockwise to unlock them.
You will need to clean off the old paste and reapply new if you ever take the cooler off.
Clean off old paste with alcohol and a lint free paper like a coffee filter.
Apply new paste sparingly. A small rice sized drop in the center will spread our under heat and pressure.
Too much paste is bad, it will act as an insulator.
It is hard to use too little.

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May 30, 2020
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I managed to fix it :D
What I did:
Clean ALL the dust out with an air compressor
Removed the thermal paste with alcohol, reapplied it more carefully
Installed 3 new case fans and made it so the air flow is neutral.

When playing games it's chilling around 50 degrees and when idle around 30.

Thanks for the help everyone!
 
May 30, 2020
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Okay never mind :(

When I play games it still randomly crashes. No cpu overheats or whatever. Stable at 60 degrees. I’m lost.
 
Assuming memtest86 checks out the ram ok, then run a simple stress test using cpu/Z
verify that the temperature is ok with HWmonitor.
Such a test will not stress the graphics card or the psu.

Since your failures happen while gaming, and on different games, I would suspect a psu or graphics card cause.

It would not hurt to do a clean install of the latest nvidia driver downloaded directly from nvidia.

If the psu is suspect, the only way to verify is to replace it with a known good psu of sufficient power.
That would be 550w at least.
 
May 30, 2020
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Oh yeah, the RAM if fine.
I'll do a stress test in a bit, doing a full system scan right now to make sure nothing is corrupted / full with virusses. After this I'll reinstall drivers.

Since I'm running a test right now I'm not going to take the risk of canceling it by opening any other applications / looking inside my pc.
I also do not have a spair PSU.

Just ran CPU stress test, it seemed fine. Average of around 75 degrees. That's fine right?

Thanks for the idea's everyone, will definitely use them. I'll keep you updated.
 
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May 30, 2020
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Also, just a question. When my system shuts down all my monitors are black and lost connection, and fans in my case are working very hard. Could it be my GPU failing because of corrupted/wrong drivers?

UPDATE: I just did a Windows Resource Protection scan, and it said some corrupted files were found and got repaired. Could this be it?

Also, I looked in my Event Viewer, and I found these 3 interesting criticals / errors
The device HID-compliant headset (location (unknown)) is offline due to a user-mode driver crash. Windows will attempt to restart the device 5 more times. Please contact the device manufacturer for more information about this problem.

A problem has occurred with one or more user-mode drivers and the hosting process has been terminated. This may temporarily interrupt your ability to access the devices.

The server {2593F8B9-4EAF-457C-B68A-50F6B8EA6B54} did not register with DCOM within the required timeout.
 
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It is normal for fans to run a bit after power off to insure that the cpu cools off.

I might suggest that instead of powering off the pc, you use sleep to ram(no hibernate)
That puts the pc and monitors into a very low power state, not much different from a full power off.
The benefit is less stress on your parts and a much faster sleep wake time. Perhaps 5 seconds.

What is the make/model of your psu and how long have you been using it?
A failing cheap psu can cause all sorts of issues that are hard to diagnose.
 
May 30, 2020
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Alright, I'll put it into sleep mode this night.

Also, I'm going to look into that later today after I ran some tests and re-installed drivers. When it's done and the problem still occurs I'll give you the info of my PSU. All I know is that it was around €75 when I bought it
 
If you can't borrow a good psu to test with, consider buying a quality replacement.
Buy from a shop with a good return policy. Expect to pay 15% if you need to return the unit.
Here is one list of psu quality tiers. Look for tier 3 or better.
 
May 30, 2020
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If you can't borrow a good psu to test with, consider buying a quality replacement.
Buy from a shop with a good return policy. Expect to pay 15% if you need to return the unit.
Here is one list of psu quality tiers. Look for tier 3 or better.
Alright, I'll look into it and search for a new one if neither of the solutions ahove work.


"The device HID-compliant headset (location (unknown)) is offline "
HID is Human Interface Device. Another word for it is USB. Your headset seems to have crappy drivers.
Oh, that's weird. I haven't had any issues with my audio so far. Where could I update them?
 
May 30, 2020
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Alright both of the scans are done.
1 malware got deleted
A few corrupted files were repaired
This all without success. I'm going to reinstall drivers now.
 

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