PAGING BRIAN JONES

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Hey Bri,
Since when did you site change names? I hadn't noticed that before.
Anyhow just thought I'd report the professional look of the site.
Nice redesign. But you left out your email, whether intentional or
not.
I originally wanted to ask you, I'm beginning work on a Defender
cabinet. Pretty much empty. Was curious what you'd recommend for
painting it. I have a Cabinet I'm also repainting, a Lunar Lander.
So they're both gonna be black. I was considering just doing them
both at the same time with the same material.
But I vaguely recall you said something about using oil based. To
date I've always used water base enamel. Not laquer. And I feel
pretty comfortable with it. But I don't want that to stop me from
getting the best results.
What was your recommendation on a Defender?
Yea guess I'll be stencilling again. Ain't that fun? I'll have to
look around to see if the Defender sideart stencils are even still
available.

 

[Prok]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Hi.. I took my email off my pages mainly due to the 1000+ spams that having
it there generated... instead I created 'gametalks' on every page to allow
visitors to interact with me and other users without email. I'm hoping it
works because I don't really want to create a message board, but I do like
people being able to ask questions and interact from just about any page on
the site.

As for the black question, I use Rust Oleum Satin Black every time I do
Black paint. It without a doubt has the deepest black color (not blue, not
grey etc like so many water based blacks). It is oil based, but dries very
quickly. For those williams cabs, don't forget to finish them off with a
coat of clear polyurethane.

/brian

http://www.rgvac.com

"Zinfer" <rmassman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:430162df.160954437@news-server.woh.rr.com...
> Hey Bri,
> Since when did you site change names? I hadn't noticed that before.
> Anyhow just thought I'd report the professional look of the site.
> Nice redesign. But you left out your email, whether intentional or
> not.
> I originally wanted to ask you, I'm beginning work on a Defender
> cabinet. Pretty much empty. Was curious what you'd recommend for
> painting it. I have a Cabinet I'm also repainting, a Lunar Lander.
> So they're both gonna be black. I was considering just doing them
> both at the same time with the same material.
> But I vaguely recall you said something about using oil based. To
> date I've always used water base enamel. Not laquer. And I feel
> pretty comfortable with it. But I don't want that to stop me from
> getting the best results.
> What was your recommendation on a Defender?
> Yea guess I'll be stencilling again. Ain't that fun? I'll have to
> look around to see if the Defender sideart stencils are even still
> available.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

What's your web site address? Sounds interesting....


prOk wrote:
> Hi.. I took my email off my pages mainly due to the 1000+ spams that having
> it there generated... instead I created 'gametalks' on every page to allow
> visitors to interact with me and other users without email. I'm hoping it
> works because I don't really want to create a message board, but I do like
> people being able to ask questions and interact from just about any page on
> the site.
>
> As for the black question, I use Rust Oleum Satin Black every time I do
> Black paint. It without a doubt has the deepest black color (not blue, not
> grey etc like so many water based blacks). It is oil based, but dries very
> quickly. For those williams cabs, don't forget to finish them off with a
> coat of clear polyurethane.
>
> /brian
>
> http://www.rgvac.com
>
> "Zinfer" <rmassman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:430162df.160954437@news-server.woh.rr.com...
> > Hey Bri,
> > Since when did you site change names? I hadn't noticed that before.
> > Anyhow just thought I'd report the professional look of the site.
> > Nice redesign. But you left out your email, whether intentional or
> > not.
> > I originally wanted to ask you, I'm beginning work on a Defender
> > cabinet. Pretty much empty. Was curious what you'd recommend for
> > painting it. I have a Cabinet I'm also repainting, a Lunar Lander.
> > So they're both gonna be black. I was considering just doing them
> > both at the same time with the same material.
> > But I vaguely recall you said something about using oil based. To
> > date I've always used water base enamel. Not laquer. And I feel
> > pretty comfortable with it. But I don't want that to stop me from
> > getting the best results.
> > What was your recommendation on a Defender?
> > Yea guess I'll be stencilling again. Ain't that fun? I'll have to
> > look around to see if the Defender sideart stencils are even still
> > available.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I'll be painting my Pac-Man soon. I picked up the paint recently, but
was thinking that a poly coat might be in order for protection of the
art. Would that be wise? Or unoriginal?

 

[guinness]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

It was in his signature.

"dbpbandit" <davep@premierbev.com> wrote in message
news:1124210825.571368.99380@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> What's your web site address? Sounds interesting....
>
>
> prOk wrote:
>> Hi.. I took my email off my pages mainly due to the 1000+ spams that
>> having
>> it there generated... instead I created 'gametalks' on every page to
>> allow
>> visitors to interact with me and other users without email. I'm hoping
>> it
>> works because I don't really want to create a message board, but I do
>> like
>> people being able to ask questions and interact from just about any page
>> on
>> the site.
>>
>> As for the black question, I use Rust Oleum Satin Black every time I do
>> Black paint. It without a doubt has the deepest black color (not blue,
>> not
>> grey etc like so many water based blacks). It is oil based, but dries
>> very
>> quickly. For those williams cabs, don't forget to finish them off with a
>> coat of clear polyurethane.
>>
>> /brian
>>
>> http://www.rgvac.com
>>
>> "Zinfer" <rmassman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:430162df.160954437@news-server.woh.rr.com...
>> > Hey Bri,
>> > Since when did you site change names? I hadn't noticed that before.
>> > Anyhow just thought I'd report the professional look of the site.
>> > Nice redesign. But you left out your email, whether intentional or
>> > not.
>> > I originally wanted to ask you, I'm beginning work on a Defender
>> > cabinet. Pretty much empty. Was curious what you'd recommend for
>> > painting it. I have a Cabinet I'm also repainting, a Lunar Lander.
>> > So they're both gonna be black. I was considering just doing them
>> > both at the same time with the same material.
>> > But I vaguely recall you said something about using oil based. To
>> > date I've always used water base enamel. Not laquer. And I feel
>> > pretty comfortable with it. But I don't want that to stop me from
>> > getting the best results.
>> > What was your recommendation on a Defender?
>> > Yea guess I'll be stencilling again. Ain't that fun? I'll have to
>> > look around to see if the Defender sideart stencils are even still
>> > available.
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Have you ever painted an Asteroids cab? Would you recommend the same
for that? Oil based -what a mess. Do you thin it? If so, with what?
The polyurethane would of course be applied after stencilling. But is
that coat sprayed on as well?
Do you buy that Rustoleum Satin black by the gallon at some automotive
paint store or do they have something like that at Lowe's, Menards or
Home Depot?
I'll have to look over your site again for an oil painting refresher.

On Tue, 16 Aug 2005 08:12:52 -0400, "prOk" <bsonej@hotmail.com> wrote:

>Hi.. I took my email off my pages mainly due to the 1000+ spams that having
>it there generated... instead I created 'gametalks' on every page to allow
>visitors to interact with me and other users without email. I'm hoping it
>works because I don't really want to create a message board, but I do like
>people being able to ask questions and interact from just about any page on
>the site.
>
>As for the black question, I use Rust Oleum Satin Black every time I do
>Black paint. It without a doubt has the deepest black color (not blue, not
>grey etc like so many water based blacks). It is oil based, but dries very
>quickly. For those williams cabs, don't forget to finish them off with a
>coat of clear polyurethane.
>
>/brian
>
>http://www.rgvac.com
>
>"Zinfer" <rmassman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:430162df.160954437@news-server.woh.rr.com...
>> Hey Bri,
>> Since when did you site change names? I hadn't noticed that before.
>> Anyhow just thought I'd report the professional look of the site.
>> Nice redesign. But you left out your email, whether intentional or
>> not.
>> I originally wanted to ask you, I'm beginning work on a Defender
>> cabinet. Pretty much empty. Was curious what you'd recommend for
>> painting it. I have a Cabinet I'm also repainting, a Lunar Lander.
>> So they're both gonna be black. I was considering just doing them
>> both at the same time with the same material.
>> But I vaguely recall you said something about using oil based. To
>> date I've always used water base enamel. Not laquer. And I feel
>> pretty comfortable with it. But I don't want that to stop me from
>> getting the best results.
>> What was your recommendation on a Defender?
>> Yea guess I'll be stencilling again. Ain't that fun? I'll have to
>> look around to see if the Defender sideart stencils are even still
>> available.
>
>

 

[Prok]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Dont' do the poly thing unless it was originally

"Corey C." <cooke@jory.ca> wrote in message
news:1124218745.023678.192060@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> I'll be painting my Pac-Man soon. I picked up the paint recently, but
> was thinking that a poly coat might be in order for protection of the
> art. Would that be wise? Or unoriginal?
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I purchased a CIL colour called "curry spice". I've been told by other
collectors that it's a spot on match for the yellow. I haven't figured
out the other colours yet. But I haven't tried very hard either. I
won't be painting until I'm done sanding. And I won't be able to spend
any time on it for a couple of weeks.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I don't believe that was a practice common to that cabinet. Didn't
come OEM like that. I don't think I'll do it with my Pac. What paint
codes did you use if you don't mind my asking?

On 16 Aug 2005 11:59:05 -0700, "Corey C." <cooke@jory.ca> wrote:

>I'll be painting my Pac-Man soon. I picked up the paint recently, but
>was thinking that a poly coat might be in order for protection of the
>art. Would that be wise? Or unoriginal?
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Well if it's anything like it was here in Ohio, in a couple weeks the
weather should be perfect for sanding. Hopefully it'll cool off.
There was a period there you just didn't want to even step outside and
bake.
Curry Spice eh? I'll have to look up more info on that.

On 16 Aug 2005 19:10:17 -0700, "Corey C." <cooke@jory.ca> wrote:

>I purchased a CIL colour called "curry spice". I've been told by other
>collectors that it's a spot on match for the yellow. I haven't figured
>out the other colours yet. But I haven't tried very hard either. I
>won't be painting until I'm done sanding. And I won't be able to spend
>any time on it for a couple of weeks.
>