Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (
More info?)
"Myrmidon" <ImNot@home.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1cc64d158f5be9098a513@news-server.woh.rr.com...
> In article <d3ha4a$dv8$1@gnus01.u.washington.edu>, relkins,
> relkins@u.washington.edu Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
> > So, I recently purchased the "Light Flesh" trio from my local dealer,
and
> > would like any advice from those of you who have used/are using it. I've
> > read their spiel re: not needing thinning, 1-coat goodness, etc. But
what do
> > you think I should know? I did squeeze a bit out of one bottle to look
at
> > it, and it seems to me that contrary to their claims, I would need to
thin
> > at least a little. I know, bone-head type questions, but I like getting
user
> > info upfront before diving in.
> >
> > Also, I am looking for a site that gives as detailed as possible,
> > beginning -to -end guide on painting a mini, with pictures..
>
> Tim Kolmetz (a superb painter) was talking about doing a paint guide and
> selling it on CD, but I haven't seen anything out of him on the subject
> in a while. A full painting guide is a hell of a lot of work, even if
> only covering one mini - I can see where folks who are really good don't
> want to just give that kind of work for free.
>
> > I've
> > extensively searched many a site, and and still have a few questions. My
> > main ones are how to accurately black/brownline
>
> 1. Use a very fine brush, make sure your paint/ink flows like you were
> working with an old fashion quill type pen, practice a lot, use a
> magnifier as needed, and still be prepared to fix mistakes. (Using a
> moist cotton swab / Q-tip to remove the 'mistake' before it dries helps
> a lot.)
>
> 2. Cheat. Use a very fine tipped technical pen. The really expensive
> kind allow you to load your own ink - like brown ink, etc. Even a plain
> black tech pen lets one write slogans on marine armor, etc.
>
> > painting theory
>
> That sir, is the subject of *many* books. I'd recommend you start
> at a good library, as well as a good book store or even Amazon since
> they're online. If you're smart, you'll look at 3 areas. 1 - color
> theory and shape. There are a number of great artists in the classical
> 'fine arts' arena to look at as well. (Piet Mondrian is a good place to
> start when it comes to color and shape.) 2. Optical physics. Why?
> Because there's a huge difference between emitted and reflected light,
> and you're trying to simulate *both of these things* in many cases.
> (It's a damn shame that most college art programs don't include anything
> about this - I've met more than a few 'artists' who don't know that
> sunlight is blue-white {high intensity} light, and not yellow.) And 3 -
> the operation of the eye and optic nerves. And before you ask, it's
> because you need to know how the eye processes information before you
> can find ways of 'fooling the eye' or creating particular visual
> effects.
>
> > blending
>
> This goes hand in hand with painting theory above. Look at a
> color wheel, invest in some 'retarding agent' (slows down the drying
> time of acrylic paint) so you can actually get a chance to blend before
> the paint dries out. And last but not least, be prepared to waste some
> paint by practicing painting a simple color wheel - MORE THAN ONCE. As
> one of my favorite instructors put it 'If you aren't willing to waste a
> little paint now, you'll spend a life time doing it later by not knowing
> how to blend effectively.'
>
> (A word on blending - adding black to a color makes it 'muddy' - not
> just darker as you are NOT adding a darker version of that pigment or
> its compliment to the mix. White does not make things 'lighter' - it
> makes them more pastel or washed out for the same reason. 'True or
> Pure' blacks and whites are EXTREMELY rare in nature.)
>
> > (What to paint first, etc)
>
> While this is often a matter of personal preference, the tactic
> commonly employed by many folks is 'inside to outside'. This means
> paint the inner/deepest (I.e. sometimes harder to reach) areas first and
> work you way out to the upper surfaces.
>
>
>
> > in depth "how-to" on highlighting and shading.
>
> Knowing how light (emitted and reflected) works is an absolute
> MUST for shading and highlighting - the other is how the optic nerves in
> the eye work, and what information they used to make judgements about
> distance and depth perception, etc.
>
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> Myrmidon
>
>
> --
> #1582. I think they call it Warhammer "40K" because that is how
> much you are going to have to make per year in order to play.
>
> - Eric Noland
>
> # 1082. Pound for pound I can buy cocaine cheaper than
> raise a Warhammer army
>
> - Roy Cox
>
> http://www.PetitionOnline.com/gwprice/
>
> ****
>
> RGMW FAQ:
http://www.rgmw.org
>
> Or...
>
>
http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
>
Wow! Thanks much! Im looking forward to wasting paint this weekend!
drgrbek
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