[SOLVED] PC away from monitor

[MentalMinion75]

Ok so this is going to be a wierd one, and i wasnt sure were to post it.

I only have a small apartment. My bedroom is directly above a basement separated by a wooden floor. Is there any way i could have my PC + 2nd PC/Server down in the basement with my monitor, keyboard, mouse etc upstairs on the desk. This would also make it silent running.

What would i need to pull this off, if its possible

 

[kanewolf]

Ok so this is going to be a wierd one, and i wasnt sure were to post it.

I only have a small apartment. My bedroom is directly above a basement separated by a wooden floor. Is there any way i could have my PC + 2nd PC/Server down in the basement with my monitor, keyboard, mouse etc upstairs on the desk. This would also make it silent running.

What would i need to pull this off, if its possible

Are you going to drill a hole through the floor or wall (and then floor) ?

 

[MentalMinion75]

Are you going to drill a hole through the floor or wall (and then floor) ?

Probably straight down into the floor below my desk

 

[geofelt]

I think that can work, assuming you can make a hole in the floor to drop some cables through.
For starters, you will need a way to power on/off the pc.
Here is one such remote device:
https://www.amazon.com/Computer-LIT...+power+button+extension&qid=1649774461&sr=8-8
The length is only 2m so you would need to splice in an extension.

You will need a sufficiently long hdmi or dp cable for your monitor.
They come in different qualities.
You will also want a powered usb hub for your keyboard and mice.

 

[MentalMinion75]

I think that can work, assuming you can make a hole in the floor to drop some cables through.
For starters, you will need a way to power on/off the pc.
Here is one such remote device:
https://www.amazon.com/Computer-LIT...+power+button+extension&qid=1649774461&sr=8-8
The length is only 2m so you would need to splice in an extension.

You will need a sufficiently long hdmi or dp cable for your monitor.
They come in different qualities.
You will also want a powered usb hub for your keyboard and mice.

That easy huh? i already have 2 powered USB3 hubs, one isnt being used at the moment

 

[Fredvon4]

Just a thought: Every day on my PCs of several, I put in or take out USB or DVDs fairly often. With PC in basement you need extension cable for usb up stairs also to run a stand alone DVD player near your monitor.... fairly cheap these days. I am not sure on max length a USB hub can be from source to device

 

[MentalMinion75]

Just a thought: Every day on my PCs of several, I put in or take out USB or DVDs fairly often. With PC in basement you need extension cable for usb up stairs also to run a stand alone DVD player near your monitor.... fairly cheap these days. I am not sure on max length a USB hub can be from source to device

I was thinking about making shelving unit of some kind and attach it to the wooden joists in the ceiling, so that way the PC & Server would only in theory be about 1.5m away from the monitor in the bedroom

 

[Ralston18]

This:

"I was thinking about making shelving unit of some kind and attach it to the wooden joists in the ceiling, so that way the PC & Server would only in theory be about 1.5m away from the monitor in the bedroom."

Where will the 2nd PC/Server be getting its' AC power?

Also keep in mind the need for good ventilation and the need to avoid dust, debris, etc. that will naturally be drawn into the system.

Plus various creepy crawlers that may thank you for their new home.

= = = =

And I will add the suggestion that the 2nd PC /Server just be connected into your home network with an Ethernet cable connected into your router.

Then use Remote Desktop Connection to log into and work on the 2nd PC/Server.

 

[MentalMinion75]

This:

"I was thinking about making shelving unit of some kind and attach it to the wooden joists in the ceiling, so that way the PC & Server would only in theory be about 1.5m away from the monitor in the bedroom."

Where will the 2nd PC/Server be getting its' AC power?

Also keep in mind the need for good ventilation and the need to avoid dust, debris, etc. that will naturally be drawn into the system.

Plus various creepy crawlers that may thank you for their new home.

= = = =

And I will add the suggestion that the 2nd PC /Server just be connected into your home network with an Ethernet cable connected into your router.

Then use Remote Desktop Connection to log into and work on the 2nd PC/Server.

hmm didnt think of that, it is spider central down there right now. I would also have to wire in power sockets down there, as there is nothing but a light

 

[Fredvon4]

This is still not a bad plan. Adding a low amp AC 110V power to a single light fixture in center of the basement room is trivial IMO using a bulb adapter with 2 110VAC plug in ports is as simple as unscrewing the bulb, screw in the adapter then the New Led bulb and plugging in a power strip over the the shelf for the PC.... I doubt you will over load the 15 or 20 amp Light circuit.

https://smile.amazon.com/Simba-Ligh...&sprefix=110+vac+bulb+adapters,aps,590&sr=8-1

The hole in floor, once cables are in, can be easily pest proofed with a wad of insulation or even cotton. I would spray most any home use, pet safe, pest killer on the shelf, Wad, and a foot or two on the cables. In out Texas rural house I swear by Demon WS2 from Ace hardware. A two pack of water soluble packets in $15 or so and mixes into a 1 gallon pump sprayer. Enough for the perimeter of most homes. I only use it inside where my 4 dogs cant lick at something. This stuff kills all ants, spiders, and roaches. They rarely get more that a few feet before very dead and vacuumed up.

https://www.amazon.com/Insecticide-...r_1_2?keywords=demon+wp&qid=1649870747&sr=8-2

The shelf is easy too. I assume open floor joists over head in the basement so three 3/4Inch thick plywood (ugly but and grade will work as basement should be relatively dry. The Joists should be 6 inches deep top to bottom and every 16 inches on center. Tower pcs at tall and others are wide but low. I would make my shelf slightly below eye level and wide enough and long enough for all the components.

So 3 ply boards all the same width as the shelf ---say 24 inches (there is a reason for 24")
2 will go from you desired shelf height off the floor all the way up to the floor.
1 will be between these two as wide as needed ---
In my head I see 2 PCs side by side and one UPS* between them My desk top is 11 deep by 21 wide by 4 tall.

with a gap for air between both of 4 inches I need 21+21+4 and another 2 4 inch gaps for the 5 inch wide UPSso
21+21+4+5+4+4=59 ..... remember the joists are 16 inch on center....so inside of left joist is X inches from the inside of the joist I need to the far right joist. I think I need to span 4 floor joists with my shelf to get a bit bigger than the 59 inches of shelf needed. Some where between 62 and 64 inches.

A 3/4 inch ply shelf 24 deep and 64 long will hold that weight with out sagging

You can buy ready dimensioned solid wood** or a sheet of ply at Home depot / Lowes type stores at reasonable prices

Since my shelf need to be wider that 48" I can consider 24 in by XXX long solid wood in the dimensional wood isle... they sell in 1/2 in and 3/4 inch stuff of many soft and hard woods... But a bit pricey depending on pine vs Red Oak...both will work

Becaus my shelf is so long--- 3/4 inch ply is not really a good choice unless I can use the rest for some other project. The cost of PLY is still too high IMO

you need some

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=4+inch+l...887791&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_7xr9zrs017_e

and you need wood screws long enough for the bracket and through the shelf sides into the 2x6 floor joists

The one down side to stealing 110VAC from light socket....MUST leach light switch ON 24/7 (taped ON) and use pull string to get light

 

[MentalMinion75]

Im in the

This is still not a bad plan. Adding a low amp AC 110V power to a single light fixture in center of the basement room is trivial IMO using a bulb adapter with 2 110VAC plug in ports is as simple as unscrewing the bulb, screw in the adapter then the New Led bulb and plugging in a power strip over the the shelf for the PC.... I doubt you will over load the 15 or 20 amp Light circuit.

https://smile.amazon.com/Simba-Lighting-Adapter-Control-Basement/dp/B07X64HBMV/ref=sr_1_1?crid=386Y1YK1D9L56&keywords=110v+ac+bulb+adapter&qid=1649870634&sprefix=110+vac+bulb+adapters,aps,590&sr=8-1

The hole in floor, once cables are in, can be easily pest proofed with a wad of insulation or even cotton. I would spray most any home use, pet safe, pest killer on the shelf, Wad, and a foot or two on the cables. In out Texas rural house I swear by Demon WS2 from Ace hardware. A two pack of water soluble packets in $15 or so and mixes into a 1 gallon pump sprayer. Enough for the perimeter of most homes. I only use it inside where my 4 dogs cant lick at something. This stuff kills all ants, spiders, and roaches. They rarely get more that a few feet before very dead and vacuumed up.

https://www.amazon.com/Insecticide-...r_1_2?keywords=demon+wp&qid=1649870747&sr=8-2

The shelf is easy too. I assume open floor joists over head in the basement so three 3/4Inch thick plywood (ugly but and grade will work as basement should be relatively dry. The Joists should be 6 inches deep top to bottom and every 16 inches on center. Tower pcs at tall and others are wide but low. I would make my shelf slightly below eye level and wide enough and long enough for all the components.

So 3 ply boards all the same width as the shelf ---say 24 inches (there is a reason for 24")
2 will go from you desired shelf height off the floor all the way up to the floor.
1 will be between these two as wide as needed ---
In my head I see 2 PCs side by side and one UPS* between them My desk top is 11 deep by 21 wide by 4 tall.

with a gap for air between both of 4 inches I need 21+21+4 and another 2 4 inch gaps for the 5 inch wide UPSso
21+21+4+5+4+4=59 ..... remember the joists are 16 inch on center....so inside of left joist is X inches from the inside of the joist I need to the far right joist. I think I need to span 4 floor joists with my shelf to get a bit bigger than the 59 inches of shelf needed. Some where between 62 and 64 inches.

A 3/4 inch ply shelf 24 deep and 64 long will hold that weight with out sagging

You can buy ready dimensioned solid wood** or a sheet of ply at Home depot / Lowes type stores at reasonable prices

Since my shelf need to be wider that 48" I can consider 24 in by XXX long solid wood in the dimensional wood isle... they sell in 1/2 in and 3/4 inch stuff of many soft and hard woods... But a bit pricey depending on pine vs Red Oak...both will work

Becaus my shelf is so long--- 3/4 inch ply is not really a good choice unless I can use the rest for some other project. The cost of PLY is still too high IMO

you need some

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=4+inch+l...887791&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_7xr9zrs017_e

and you need wood screws long enough for the bracket and through the shelf sides into the 2x6 floor joists

The one down side to stealing 110VAC from light socket....MUST leach light switch ON 24/7 (taped ON) and use pull string to get light

Im in the UK so i'll have to source some alternatives. because we run on 240v here. but thanks for the suggestions ^^

 

[Ralston18]

Those light socket to outlet adapters are often very cheaply made and quite possibly be prohibited or restricted by local electrical codes.

They do not need to be overloaded to burn up.

Connecting in a power strip will make the risks all the worse....

Many fake or counterfeit products have no qualms at all regarding phony certifications, stamps, and labels. As for genuine products - who knows what corners were cut during production and assembly.

Such light bulb to socket adapters are not something to be left "live" in an unattended space if used anywhere at all.

Absolutely not recommended.