PC blackscreened and fans turned up to 100% why?

CoffeeStoreGuy

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May 7, 2017
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I was playing a game 30 minutes ago and my pc blackscreened and all of my fans turned up to 100%. I had to force my pc to turn off. I have no explanation to why this happened because I don't overclock or mess with fan settings. I just got a 1070ti and would like to know if this is normal. I do have an outdated motherboard, cpu, and ram but I don't think it had to do with anything. This happened when I was playing fortnite and there wasn't a list of errors, but after a reboot the pc is perfectly fine. I would just like to know why.



MOBO: Z97 Asrock Anniversary Edition

RAM: Anarchy 8x2

CPU: i5 4460 3.2GHz

GPU: GTX 1070ti 8Gb

HDD: Blue Seagate 2tb

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4KV7J8
 
Solution
ehmkec is correct. But I'll add a slightly different possibility regarding fan speeds.

I agree that, for whatever reason, it appears that your system suddenly quit and went through a reboot attempt which, from your description, did not complete properly. You had to force a shut-down. You do not provide any detail of how long you waited after that (for cooling the system) before you did a re-start.

Anyway, The NORMAL sequence for FANS at any boot-up is that they ALL are started up at 100% full speed to be sure they actually do start. A short time later (5-10 sec) after some POST testing is completed the system starts to use the automatic fan speed control system which usually finds that everything is at least partly cool and the fans...
Usually when the fans all go to high it is because your CPU is running towards 100% and is getting hot. That brings on the fans. Many people will see an additional symptom in that the PC will shutdown it the CPU or MB temps exceed the thermal limit. Its hard to say what may have caused your CPU to ramp. If it does happen again try to grab a look at Task Manager and see which process is hogging the CPU.. Hopefully it was a one-time fluke.
 


It could of been chrome I have like a hundred tabs open all the time even when they have no use. I'll try to delete the tabs I'm not actually using from now on and hope this was a one time fluke.
 
ehmkec is correct. But I'll add a slightly different possibility regarding fan speeds.

I agree that, for whatever reason, it appears that your system suddenly quit and went through a reboot attempt which, from your description, did not complete properly. You had to force a shut-down. You do not provide any detail of how long you waited after that (for cooling the system) before you did a re-start.

Anyway, The NORMAL sequence for FANS at any boot-up is that they ALL are started up at 100% full speed to be sure they actually do start. A short time later (5-10 sec) after some POST testing is completed the system starts to use the automatic fan speed control system which usually finds that everything is at least partly cool and the fans do not need full speed at all, so they all slow down to what is really needed for normal operation. BUT if something goes wrong in that initial POST process and the system gets stuck in a processing "loop" early, it may never get to turning on the normal control system, so the fans get stuck in the full-speed start-up state until you can force a shut-down that successfully removes the "glitch" and lets it re-start normally.
 
Solution


I actually didn't let it go on for too long I kind of panicked and turned it off for a good 5 minutes and then turned it back on, but if it happens again I'll leave it on for little longer next time.
 
Actually, once the system has "frozen" so the black screen is constant, no further waiting is going to help. Forcing a shut-down at that point is best. For info-gathering purposes, though, an immediate reboot is useful. If it can reboot and resume normal operations immediately, that would suggest no big problem with overheating, because overheating usually takes several minutes (5 to 30) to cool down enough to re-start. If it can reboot right away, you might start looking for another cause. Or if you're lucky, this will not recur and you can shrug it off as a real fluke.

Thanks for Best Solution.
 


Yeah I was immediately able to reboot so I still have no idea why it did that. Welp looks like the mystery will continue, but hopefully it was a one time thing.
 


Actually nevermind if you guys are still there my pc just did it again, and I have no idea if my pc overheated or not, because I was immediately able to turn it back on. It doesn't try to reboot and the fans don't stop going 100% until you turn it off. My cpu runs at 27 to 30 Celsius idle and when gaming 40 to 45. The problem this time is I wasn't gaming.I don't think it's overheating, but if it's not that what could it be?
 
Lots of possibilities, unfortunately. A FEW of them:

1. Somewhere there's a loose connection that breaks open and then resets itself, but the disruption causes the system to "freeze" in an unstable state and start a reboot, but fail to complete. This COULD be in any of the multiple plug-in connectors in your system. For a small example, even a poor connection at the CPU_FAN header on Pin #3 that carries the CPU cooling fan's speed signal back to the header can trigger the mobo to shut the system down to prevent a possible overheating of the CPU caused by fan failure. This "failure" may not be real, but if the header gets NO fan speed signal it believes that, anyway.
2. Similar concept, but this intermittent connection causes a momentary short circuit to Ground somewhere, resulting in similar situation.
3. A weak component on the edge of failure sometimes does fail, then recovers partially - same result. If this is the case, what MAY happen is that the situation is almost impossible to locate, but it gets worse and more frequent as time goes on. Hopefully if that happens its symptoms may become clearer and more complex until the likely cause can be recognized.

There are many other possibilities. One way to tackle this is to start replacing components until the trouble stops. BUT since you really have no way to know where to start this, it can get VERY expensive as a trial-and-error process, so I do not recommend that. The other way is to let this continue and start keeping a log of when it happens, what was going on at the time, and any other symptoms you notice. After a while if it continues, a pattern may emerge to guide you in identifying the likely weak or failing component.

Just a couple of personal stories related to my suggestions above. Do NOT take these are your best ways to handle, more like illustrations of SOME of the things I've experienced.

There is one cause I think is relatively common for some things and free to fix IF you are careful. Over time the metal contacts in connectors can develop a thin oxide coating leading to poor or intermittent connections at that point. If I suspect that, I shut down completely and disconnect from power. Open the case. VERY carefully go though the portions of your system you suspect are involved IF you have been able to narrow this down, and disconnect a connector, then plug it back in. Repeat several times. Be careful NOT to disconnect something else that you did not intend! Proceed to the next suspect connector. After you're finished, check again for disrupted connections and cables, or anything pushed out of place that might interfere with other stuff. Then close up and start up. If it is working OK, you may need to wait several days or weeks before you are confident this has actually helped. The disconnect / reconnect action can sort of "scrub" metal surfaces to remove the oxide coating causing the unreliable contact.

Between about 2003 and 2008 there emerged a rash of problems all traced to a particular type of electrolytic capacitor design that was used widely in PSU's and in mobos' Voltage Regulation sections. This problem was recognized as it became common and eliminated by 2010 or earlier by changing which type of capacitors were used in new machines, so it is NOT common now, but I will tell you my experiences simply as illustrations of intermittent troubleshooting. My first case was with this computer. Early events were sudden reboots in the middle of normal moderate uses. Then it would suddenly shut down and refuse to re-start with a push of the front On / Off button, BUT it could be re-started if I shut off the manual switch on the back of the PSU and left it off for a while (5 - 15 minutes) before turning back on. The pattern became more frequent over the next 6 - 12 months. I tried cleaning out dust, my contact cleaning process (above), etc, but to no avail. Finally, knowing of the capacitor problem, I removed the PSU and opened it up. Inspection showed one or two large capacitor cans with bulged tops, the typical symptom of that capacitor problem. Replacing that PSU completely solved it. A couple years later I had a similar problem with another machine in our retail store, but the symptoms were more severe and developed more rapidly. My son replaced its PSU, but the problem persisted. After a short time I opened up and inspected thoroughly again, and this time discovered bulged capacitors on the mobo in the Voltage Regulation area. Replacing the mobo solved that one. In each of these cases the problem began slowly and got more frequent over the space of many months before we had enough info to narrow down the search.