[SOLVED] Pc crashes down whan playing games

Riki-Oh

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Since I built a new pc, I have this problem where while playing 3d games or running programs like Premiere Pro, benchmarks, or even for some reason Samsung Magician, the pc crashes and reboot without the bsod.
I think I've tried pretty much everything on the software side, and the hardware is all brand new. The problem doesn't seem to be the CPU, GPU, or NVMe overheating, nor a compatibility issue of some programs.
I have tried to re-install windows, all the programs and all the drivers (I also tried older versions of the GPU driver and windows 10), and I tried to install the operating system in my second SSD and removing the NVMe and vice versa, but the problem remained.
I thought the problem may have been a power supply(I had a 750 watt Corsair RM750), so I replaced it with a 1000 watt Corsair HX1000i, still nothing.
Do someone know what my problem can be?

Pc specs:
OS: Windows 10 64 bit version 2004
CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K
GPU: ASUS ROG STRIX RTX 2080 Super OC edition
PSU: Corsair HX1000i (1000 Watt)
MB: ASUS ROG STRIX z390-e gaming
Nvme (Windows and all programs): Samsung 970 Evo plus 500 GB
Ssd Sata III (Only games): Samsung 860 Evo 250 GB
CPU Cooling: Corsair Hydro 100i RGB Platinum SE
Memory: Corsair Vengeance pro 32 GB 3200 Mhz
 

Ralston18

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Do you see any crash related entries in Reliability History? Error codes, warnings, and even informational events.

Right click any given entry to obtain more information.

Event Viewer likewise captures similar information. Not as user friendly.....
 

Riki-Oh

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Do you see any crash related entries in Reliability History? Error codes, warnings, and even informational events.

Right click any given entry to obtain more information.

Event Viewer likewise captures similar information. Not as user friendly.....
Yes, there is a hardware error "LiveKernelEvent" with the code 141, and a "BlueScreen" with code 1000007e for every crash
 

Ralston18

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Moderator
Both are very broad.

So (from my viewpoint) no immediate fix is apparent.

What you can do is straightforward:

Google both errors and look for links that match or appear to match the symptoms being presented by your new pc.

Revise your searches "on the fly" as you learn. For example, you may discover some related issue or happening that you did not truly or really recognize as a problem or indication of a potential/incoming problem.

For example:

https://appuals.com/how-to-fix-bccode-bsod-1000007e-error/

Look for a solution but take advantage of the fact (as annoying as the problem is) that you do not need to immediately react to any given solution(s) being presented.

The objective is to learn more and cull out more information and possible culprits.

Interim question: how full are the drives?
 

Riki-Oh

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Both are very broad.

So (from my viewpoint) no immediate fix is apparent.

What you can do is straightforward:

Google both errors and look for links that match or appear to match the symptoms being presented by your new pc.

Revise your searches "on the fly" as you learn. For example, you may discover some related issue or happening that you did not truly or really recognize as a problem or indication of a potential/incoming problem.

For example:

https://appuals.com/how-to-fix-bccode-bsod-1000007e-error/

Look for a solution but take advantage of the fact (as annoying as the problem is) that you do not need to immediately react to any given solution(s) being presented.

The objective is to learn more and cull out more information and possible culprits.

Interim question: how full are the drives?
I'm trying to do some research but it seems that I already tried every possible solution. Updating the bios, uninstalling the gpu driver and installing an older version, reinstalling windows...

But now that I think about it, initially after the reboot the pc gave me a notification saying something like "display driver failed to start". After I updated the nvidia driver it stopped giving the message but maybe the problem is the graphics card?

About the drives, both are around 50% full
 
Last edited:

Ralston18

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Moderator
Doublecheck that the correct GPU drivers are installed.

However, even if correct, there may be some issue.

Manually download via Asus, reinstall, and reconfigure.

Forego the extra "utilities" and overclocking for now.

Objective is establish stable performance.
 
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Riki-Oh

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Doublecheck that the correct GPU drivers are installed.

However, even if correct, there may be some issue.

Manually download via Asus, reinstall, and reconfigure.

Forego the extra "utilities" and overclocking for now.

Objective is establish stable performance.

Already did all of that, the pc should be as "stable" as possible. Now what?
 
Last edited:

Ralston18

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Moderator
Based on the error code:

https://appuals.com/how-to-fix-bccode-bsod-1000007e-error/

https://appuals.com/how-to-fix-0x1000007e-error-on-windows/

Overall, there seems to be quite a few potential culprits and "fixes".

My suggestion is to check the above links and google for additional links.

Reason: You may find/discover some other related event that corresponds with the crashes.

Something previously unnoticed or deemed irrelevant.

And, reading back, I suggest that powering down, unplugging, and opening the case. Re: "Since I built" - how long ago?

Clean out dust and debris.

Verify that all cables, cards, RAM, and jumpers are fully and firmly in place. Do so by inspection and by feel.

Objective being to eliminate possible causes/issues in order to narrow things down.
 

Riki-Oh

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Based on the error code:

https://appuals.com/how-to-fix-bccode-bsod-1000007e-error/

https://appuals.com/how-to-fix-0x1000007e-error-on-windows/

Overall, there seems to be quite a few potential culprits and "fixes".

My suggestion is to check the above links and google for additional links.

Reason: You may find/discover some other related event that corresponds with the crashes.

Something previously unnoticed or deemed irrelevant.

And, reading back, I suggest that powering down, unplugging, and opening the case. Re: "Since I built" - how long ago?

Clean out dust and debris.

Verify that all cables, cards, RAM, and jumpers are fully and firmly in place. Do so by inspection and by feel.

Objective being to eliminate possible causes/issues in order to narrow things down.

I already tried all the solutions in that website, none of them worked out. I also already completely cleaned both my drives and reinstalled windows 2/3 times in each drive, so I don't think that a clean install would work. I also checked some other websites but they don't seem to offer much other solutions.

I built this pc around 3 months ago. There is no dust inside (I even cleaned it last week) and the cables and ram are firmly in place, I even moved the graphics card in the second pcie slot just yesterday because I thought the sata connectors may have prevented it from fitting well in the first slot, but nothing.
 

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
Okay. There is another approach you can take.

Using either Task Manager or Resource Monitor (use both but only one at time) observe your system's performance.,

First while the computer simple sits and idles. Second while doing light work and browsing. Third, while gaming.

Leave the Task Manager (or Resource Monitor) window open - just drag to one side or the other.

Watch what is running, what resources are being used and to what extent (%). Look for other apps, etc. that may launch in the background via Task Manager's Startup tab or even Task Scheduler.

Remember you can click column headers to sort the data - may help if the display continually shifts and jumps.

You may discover, for example, some app or utility that runs in the background and starts trying to backup, update, or simply phone home.

Take your time and be sure to both permit the system to stablize and not to just start jumping about on your own.
 

Riki-Oh

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Aug 2, 2020
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Okay. There is another approach you can take.

Using either Task Manager or Resource Monitor (use both but only one at time) observe your system's performance.,

First while the computer simple sits and idles. Second while doing light work and browsing. Third, while gaming.

Leave the Task Manager (or Resource Monitor) window open - just drag to one side or the other.

Watch what is running, what resources are being used and to what extent (%). Look for other apps, etc. that may launch in the background via Task Manager's Startup tab or even Task Scheduler.

Remember you can click column headers to sort the data - may help if the display continually shifts and jumps.

You may discover, for example, some app or utility that runs in the background and starts trying to backup, update, or simply phone home.

Take your time and be sure to both permit the system to stablize and not to just start jumping about on your own.
Ok I tried to do what you told me

There doesn't seem to be any program that opens or starts using too much resources during light work or gaming
 

Riki-Oh

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Do you have another PSU to test/try?

The objective being to install another known working PSU (even if a lower wattage) and eliminate an unstable power supply.
I thought about that, so I changed the psu just last week, but nothing.

At the moment I don't have another psu, but it shouldn't be the problem. I even did the power test with OCCT for 45 minutes and it worked just fine
 

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
Going back a couple of steps then:

Power down, unplug, open the case.

Again, verify by sight and touch that all cables, cards, RAM, and jumpers are all fully and firmly in place.

Use a flashlight to look for signs of damage, crimped, pinched, kinked cables, that no bare conductors are showing.

If nothing found then start swapping in known working cables (power and data). Just one cable at a time and methodically work through the substitution/testing process.

After that then consider testing PSU further:

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158
 

Riki-Oh

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Aug 2, 2020
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Going back a couple of steps then:

Power down, unplug, open the case.

Again, verify by sight and touch that all cables, cards, RAM, and jumpers are all fully and firmly in place.

Use a flashlight to look for signs of damage, crimped, pinched, kinked cables, that no bare conductors are showing.

If nothing found then start swapping in known working cables (power and data). Just one cable at a time and methodically work through the substitution/testing process.

After that then consider testing PSU further:

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158
I changed the cables along with the psu, they are in good conditions. And all cables and cards are in firmly in place.

I checked the motherboard and I noticed that there's a capacitor slightly oblique (~ 5°), but I don't know if that matters.

I think it's highly improbable that this is a psu related problem since the computer did crash in the same way with both my old and new power supply and cables
 

Ralston18

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Moderator
Do not know and cannot truly address the tilted capacitor. For the most part that, to me, would not be unexpected or unusual. I would be more concerned if there were many tilted capacitors and titled at greater angles....

I would not make any attempt to straighten the capacitor.

Everything you have seems to narrow down to a possible motherboard issue.

Is the motherboard still under warranty?

Try one more round of troubleshooting to be certain that no other components are the underlying problem.

Look for additional error codes and warnings.

If nothing is found then RMA the motherboard.
 

Riki-Oh

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The ram is 2x16gb or 4x8gb? Mixed sets?

Both drives are at the latest firmware?

Might be abit daunting, but tried to rebuild the pc? Set bios to optimal default settings?

The ram is 2x16, single set. The drives are updated at the latest firmware, and yes, I already rebuilt the pc and the bios is set to the default settings, nothing


Do not know and cannot truly address the tilted capacitor. For the most part that, to me, would not be unexpected or unusual. I would be more concerned if there were many tilted capacitors and titled at greater angles....

I would not make any attempt to straighten the capacitor.

Everything you have seems to narrow down to a possible motherboard issue.

Is the motherboard still under warranty?

Try one more round of troubleshooting to be certain that no other components are the underlying problem.

Look for additional error codes and warnings.

If nothing is found then RMA the motherboard.

Yeah, I figured that the capacitor wasn't the problem and I didn't try to straighten it.

Mh, at this point I'll try to ask for a replacement... I hope at least this will work
 

Riki-Oh

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Might be best, motherboard or ram would i be looking at.
Do not know and cannot truly address the tilted capacitor. For the most part that, to me, would not be unexpected or unusual. I would be more concerned if there were many tilted capacitors and titled at greater angles....

I would not make any attempt to straighten the capacitor.

Everything you have seems to narrow down to a possible motherboard issue.

Is the motherboard still under warranty?

Try one more round of troubleshooting to be certain that no other components are the underlying problem.

Look for additional error codes and warnings.

If nothing is found then RMA the motherboard.
Ok I changed motherboard with a Aorus z390 pro wifi, and the problem still remains...

And also I noticed that, both before and after changing the motherboard, my RAM always works at ~1000 Mhz even if I activate XMP in the bios, is it normal?
 
Last edited:

Vic 40

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Two 16 GB RAM modules and they are a matched set for dual channel - correct?

What manufacturer?


Memory: Corsair Vengeance pro 32 GB 3200 Mhz
Should be running at 3200 mhz with xmp enabled, not at 1000mhz. Even spd speed of 2133mhz would say 1066/1067mhz.

Can you do the next for us to see what it is running at, maybe even get a partnr?

download hwinfo,
install and open it=click run,
close the top window which is the system summary,
in the main window at the left top click "save report",
at the bottom of the next window check "Summary for Clipboard",
after that you'll see what's in the pc,
copy by clicking "copy to clipboard" and rightclick+paste in your next respons

Hwinfo is a usefull tool anyway.
 
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Riki-Oh

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Should be running at 3200 mhz with xmp enabled, not at 1000mhz. Even spd speed of 2133mhz would say 1066/1067mhz.

Can you do the next for us to see what it is running at, maybe even get a partnr?



Hwinfo is a usefull tool anyway.
Without XMP enabled the Ram runs at around 1067 mhz. So it's normal?