Question PC crashes on OS boot ?

Aug 8, 2025
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Yesterday when trying to launch BF 6 I got a message that i need to enable Secure Boot, so I went to bios settings and enabled CSM by mistake after trying to launch my pc got into a loop of automatic repairing, tried to get the settings back to default and didnt help, tried to run usb with Windows 10 installer and it crashes on the ROG loading screen and PC reboots.

Then I tried to install Windows 11 and the installer at first worked, when i got to the partitions section ive formatted the disk and then tried to create a partition and the installer crashed and PC rebooted.
After that, everytime I get into Windows 11 installer, it crashes after 20-30 seconds.

I tried to even launch the installer without HDD and SSD connected and it still crashed. Tried to install Windows To Go, at first it booted, it loaded for 20 sec then crashed, after that it crashes on ROG loading screen. Lastly I tried to install Ubuntu but that crashes too on loading screen. I have zero ideas left of what I can do, I even tried changing the RAM but that didn't help.

PC Specs
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X570-F Gaming
CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X
GPU: RTX 4070 Ti Super
 
Could be failed CPU. 🤔

Some time ago, there were another person here in TH forums, who had the exact underlying issue, where none of the OS installs didn't work, instead PC crashed constantly.
Topic if interested: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...-boot-even-with-a-bootable-usb-stick.3883410/

Sure, that person has Intel build, but since your issue and their are so akin, it is difficult not to suspect what was found out in that topic.
And for you, i have the same suggestion;
Then it most likely is CPU issue. Since you've already validated RAM.

MoBo could be an issue as well, but usually when MoBo acts up, system won't POST, let alone boot to BIOS.

But for definitive answer, you need 2nd compatible system where to test out the CPU. If CPU works fine, won't throw BSoD errors left and right and also benches well, then it leaves MoBo as only culprit.
You can haul your system to PC repair shop for diagnostics. Taking only CPU for diagnostics can also work, but whole system is better since tech can deal with whole build and make sure it, eventually, works.

Oh, you forgot to include your PSU specs.
PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?
 
Yesterday when trying to launch bf 6 ive got a message that i need to enable secure boot, went to bios settings and enabled CSM by mistake after trying to launch my pc got into a loop of automatic repairing, tried to get the settings back to default and didnt help, tried to run usb with windows 10 installer and it crashes on rog loading screen and pc reboots, then tried to install windows 11 and the installer at first worked, when i got to the partitions section ive formatted the disk and then tried to create a partition and the installer crashed and pc rebooted, after that everytime i get into windows 11 installer it crashes after 20-30 seconds, tried to even launch the installer without hdd and ssd connected and it still crashed, tried to install windows to go, at first booted it loaded for 20 sec then crashed, after that it crashes on rog loading screen, at last tried to install ubuntu but crashes too on loading screen. I have 0 ideas left of what i can do even tried to change ram doesnt help.

Pc:
Gpu - Rtx 4070 ti super
Motherboard - asus rog strix x570f gaming
Cpu - ryzen 7 5800x
If you can still get into BIOS, go there and check your CPU temp. Let it sit a couple of minutes and make sure it's stable or see if it keeps rising. It sounds like a possible overheating issue, so check to see if you can rule that out.
 
I can load once in 3 tries to windows 11 installer when im idle the installer is stable but when i start to procceed with the installation it crashes and restarts the pc. 1 time ive got it to start installing and it crashed on 76%
 
49 is pretty high to be sitting idle in BIOS. Ideally you'd be in the low 30s, maybe even high 20s. Now I definitely suspect it's overheating as soon as you put a load on it. Might be worth reseating your cooler with new thermal paste. What is your cooler, btw?
Noctua NH-D15
 
49 is pretty high to be sitting idle in BIOS. Ideally you'd be in the low 30s, maybe even high 20s. Now I definitely suspect it's overheating as soon as you put a load on it. Might be worth reseating your cooler with new thermal paste. What is your cooler, btw?

The problem is im able to run windows 11 installer idle on the first screen infinitely

Edit
I've noticed that i can use the installer jus fine as long as i format the disk on the first screen if not and the space is allocated by creating a partition the installer crashes when i try to do something, windows 10 installer doesnt even launch on my pc anymore.
 
Psu is 750 w a750gl msi about half a year old
Mediocre quality PSU. Tier B.

PSU tier list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...JWkc/edit?pli=1&gid=1973454078#gid=1973454078
For proper PSU for gaming rig, Tier A is proper.
Tier A- will do too, while Tier A+ is preferred.

So, it could be a possibility that your PSU had a hand on hardware failure that you're now battling with.
I'd get a new, better quality PSU.

everything worked fine until ive changed one setting in bios
Hardware often dies without any apparent reason. And you poking around in BIOS (enabling CSM) alone wouldn't cause the issue you're experiencing. If the CSM would be the issue, clearing CMOS and reverting back to the default BIOS settings would fix it. But since it hasn't, issue is more severe. And it probably was coincidence that all of it happened when enabling CSM.

when im idle the installer is stable but when i start to procceed with the installation it crashes and restarts the pc.
"Idle" won't use CPU compute power (not in a meaningful degree at least). But OS installation puts CPU into higher compute level, whereby when CPU isn't stable, it will crash the system.

So, look into ways of validating if your CPU works right or not. (What i said in my 1st reply.)

49 is pretty high to be sitting idle in BIOS. Ideally you'd be in the low 30s, maybe even high 20s.
There is no ideal idle temp. Since idle temp vastly differs by ambient temp, cooling solution, fan RPM, fan size and fan amount. (Dust too.)

Hence why, there are no idle temp charts in component reviews. Only under load ones.
E.g R7 5800X review temp chart: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-5800x/20.html

Note: No-one will never get lower temps than ambient temps. Since PCs are cooled by ambient air.
Also, idle temps doesn't matter because even the smallest cooler can keep CPU/GPU near ambient temps. What matters, is under load temps, since there one can see the effectiveness of cooling solution (usually balance between noise and temperature target).

E.g in my Skylake build (full specs with pics in my sig), idle temps currently are:
* 27.2C - ambient
* 30C - CPU (i5-6600K)
* 42.7C - GPU (GTX 1660 Ti)
* 41C - MoBo chipset (Z170)
* 49C - OS drive (970 Evo Plus 2TB)
* 35C - OS backup drive (960 Evo 500GB)
* 33C - data drive (870 Evo 2TB)
* 36C - data backup drive (MX500 1TB)

But these values of mine will tell no-one nothing, since others do not have the same ambient, components and airflow setup as i have.
 
Mediocre quality PSU. Tier B.

PSU tier list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...JWkc/edit?pli=1&gid=1973454078#gid=1973454078
For proper PSU for gaming rig, Tier A is proper.
Tier A- will do too, while Tier A+ is preferred.

So, it could be a possibility that your PSU had a hand on hardware failure that you're now battling with.
I'd get a new, better quality PSU.


Hardware often dies without any apparent reason. And you poking around in BIOS (enabling CSM) alone wouldn't cause the issue you're experiencing. If the CSM would be the issue, clearing CMOS and reverting back to the default BIOS settings would fix it. But since it hasn't, issue is more severe. And it probably was coincidence that all of it happened when enabling CSM.


"Idle" won't use CPU compute power (not in a meaningful degree at least). But OS installation puts CPU into higher compute level, whereby when CPU isn't stable, it will crash the system.

So, look into ways of validating if your CPU works right or not. (What i said in my 1st reply.)


There is no ideal idle temp. Since idle temp vastly differs by ambient temp, cooling solution, fan RPM, fan size and fan amount. (Dust too.)

Hence why, there are no idle temp charts in component reviews. Only under load ones.
E.g R7 5800X review temp chart: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-5800x/20.html

Note: No-one will never get lower temps than ambient temps. Since PCs are cooled by ambient air.
Also, idle temps doesn't matter because even the smallest cooler can keep CPU/GPU near ambient temps. What matters, is under load temps, since there one can see the effectiveness of cooling solution (usually balance between noise and temperature target).

E.g in my Skylake build (full specs with pics in my sig), idle temps currently are:
* 27.2C - ambient
* 30C - CPU (i5-6600K)
* 42.7C - GPU (GTX 1660 Ti)
* 41C - MoBo chipset (Z170)
* 49C - OS drive (970 Evo Plus 2TB)
* 35C - OS backup drive (960 Evo 500GB)
* 33C - data drive (870 Evo 2TB)
* 36C - data backup drive (MX500 1TB)

But these values of mine will tell no-one nothing, since others do not have the same ambient, components and airflow setup as i have.
I Have successfully installed win 11 by being idle for a couple of minutes and formatting the disk but now when i get to the win 11 settings screen after some time the pc freezes and i get the your pc run into a problem screen
 
I Have successfully installed win 11 by being idle for a couple of minutes and formatting the disk but now when i get to the win 11 settings screen after some time the pc freezes and i get the your pc run into a problem screen
There isn't much hardware wise, that can be the issue. You've tried with 2nd RAM, so, RAM can be excluded. That leaves CPU and MoBo. MoBo alone doesn't have compute unit in it, to make it "unstable". But CPU does.

Possible culprits are: CPU, MoBo, GPU and PSU. Since these 4 are needed for normal operation of the PC.

At this point, you're looking into component replacement.

To validate each, you need 2nd, compatible system, where to test out CPU and GPU. PSU should not be tested, since if it is PSU issue, it can damage or kill the 2nd system as well. But CPU and GPU can be easily tested in 2nd system, to see if they work fine, or produce issues as well. IF CPU and GPU work fine in 2nd system, this leaves only MoBo to be the culprit.

If you do not have 2nd, compatible system at hand, PC repair shop will do the trick.
 
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There isn't much hardware wise, that can be the issue. You've tried with 2nd RAM, so, RAM can be excluded. That leaves CPU and MoBo. MoBo alone doesn't have compute unit in it, to make it "unstable". But CPU does.

Possible culprits are: CPU, MoBo, GPU and PSU. Since these 4 are needed for normal operation of the PC.

At this point, you're looking into component replacement.

To validate each, you need 2nd, compatible system, where to test out CPU and GPU. PSU should not be tested, since if it is PSU issue, it can damage or kill the 2nd system as well. But CPU and GPU can be easily tested in 2nd system, to see if they work fine, or produce issues as well. IF CPU and GPU work fine in 2nd system, this leaves only MoBo to be the culprit.

If you do not have 2nd, compatible system at hand, PC repair shop will do the trick.
Seriously? Possible overheating isn't even worth looking at in your mind? That's baffling.
 
Seriously? Possible overheating isn't even worth looking at in your mind?
R7 5800X Tjmax is 90C and until CPU doesn't see those temps, it is not overheating.

Moreover, R7 5800X can idle upwards to 65C, depending on hardware and software configuration.
Reddit 1: https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/jowlja/r7_5800x_idle_temps/
Reddit 2: https://www.reddit.com/r/PcBuild/comments/16xcqxz/5800x_running_55_60_degrees_on_idle_also_rate_the/

As i said before and i'll say it again (maybe this time it sticks): idle temps do not matter. What matter, are under load temps.

OP has one of the best CPU coolers and they have temp delta of 41C. Plenty of headroom and cooling capacity to keep CPU from overheating.

On top of that, R7 5800X is hot running chip, compared to other same gen CPUs;
Stock CPU conf, under load, same hardware/cooling setup:
75C - R7 5800X
67C - R9 5900X
59C - R5 5600X

That's 16C under load temp delta compared to R5 5600X.

cpu-temperature.png


Also, i see no other proof from you, about "ideal idle temp" for R7 5800X, other than your word alone.
 
Also, i see no other proof from you, about "ideal idle temp" for R7 5800X, other than your word alone.
Let me ask you this question. If by some insane chance this was an overheating issue, what would the behavior be? Never mind, I'll answer that one myself. As soon as a load was applied, the CPU temp would spike and the system shut down. Which seems to be exactly what's happening here.

I'm not saying overheating is 100% the issue, it may be or it may not be. But personally, before I start ripping my system apart and swapping out major components, I'm going to try the simple stuff first. It's called "troubleshooting".

And if you think it's normal to idle at 49c and don't see how a higher than normal idle temp might also indicate a higher than normal load temp, then we'll just agree to disagree.
 
As soon as a load was applied, the CPU temp would spike and the system shut down.
To spike 41C temp delta on an instant would only hold true, when there's no CPU cooling what-so-ever. But OP has NH-D15. Or have you disregarded it's existence? 🤔

But personally, before I start ripping my system apart and swapping out major components, I'm going to try the simple stuff first. It's called "troubleshooting".
You can do you. OP does what they like. But you can not force your way of doing onto anyone else besides yourself.

There isn't much to do in regards of CPU thermals, IF it would be the sole issue. All OP can do, is set CPU cooler and case fans at 100% within BIOS and then try again to install OS.
CPU cooler repaste, as you suggested, is literally ripping the system apart, which you now scorn. 🙄

a higher than normal idle temp
You are constantly talking about normal idle temp, without giving out exact value of what it actually is. Let alone cite source(s) to back it up.

Care to link a white paper about "normal idle temp" for R7 5800X CPU? Since official specs doesn't state it,
link: https://www.amd.com/en/products/processors/desktops/ryzen/5000-series/amd-ryzen-7-5800x.html

Are you expecting others to take your word at face value? 🙄

For my argument, i have stated that idle temps vastly differ based on the aspects i listed and i also cited reputable TechPowerUp review of the CPU and it's thermal results.
And here are two more reputable reviews:
Tom's Hardware: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/amd-ryzen-7-5800x-zen-3-review/3
PCMag: https://www.pcmag.com/reviews/amd-ryzen-7-5800x#a-brief-look-at-overclocking-and-thermals

Where in the reputable reviews, there are no idle temp charts, because idle temps do not matter. If they matter, it would also be listed in the reputable reviews.
 
I have successfully installed windows 11 on my ssd on another pc and plugged it in my pc, after creating files in windows installer cmd i can run once windows 11 but as soon as it shows up after approximately 90 seconds pc freezes itself off and next boot it shows a error 0xc0000001 or it says your device is broken and need to be fixed, all the fans a working properly on the pc i dont know what to do.
 
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i dont know what to do.
If you do not have spare components or 2nd, compatible PC to test out hardware, you are left only to taking your PC to PC repair shop and pay for diagnostics.

Is your PC prebuilt or DIY? Did you buy it as one assembled PC or did you assemble the PC on your own?
Since if it's prebuilt, you can contact the store from where you bought it for customer support. For DIY build, you need to deal with the troubleshooting by yourself, e.g with the help of PC repair shop.
 
If you do not have spare components or 2nd, compatible PC to test out hardware, you are left only to taking your PC to PC repair shop and pay for diagnostics.

Is your PC prebuilt or DIY? Did you buy it as one assembled PC or did you assemble the PC on your own?
Since if it's prebuilt, you can contact the store from where you bought it for customer support. For DIY build, you need to deal with the troubleshooting by yourself, e.g with the help of PC repair shop.
Yeah tried everything for the past few days, gonna take it tomorrow morning to a pc repair shop
 
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In my experience Tier A+ 850 Watt PSUs are the sweet spot for power for most of the rigs I have built. I have installed higher Wattage 1000 up to 1500 Watts PSU's in high end gaming rigs. Just my opinion a liquid cooler would maybe help to keep the CPU temps within correct operating parameters better than the air cooler. BUT the Noctua NH D15 Air Coolers are very good. I am not understanding why it is not keeping the CPU at a reasonable idle temperature. 49C is a bit high for the CPU in BIOS temp. You will need to troubleshoot the system further. In my experience as long as the CPU stays stable at around 80C and lower under load as in a gaming environment there shouldn't be any operating issues. Your CPU can handle higher temps but to run it constantly at high load and temperature will reduce its overall stability and life over time. I slightly underclock and undervolt the rigs (GPUs and CPUs) I have built so they run stable with auto overclock settings with no operational issues. Just my experiences with gaming rigs. You will need to investigate your PC further to determine the exact cause of it failing as you have described here. I wish you success and find the issues so can enjoy your PC's performance once again. Cheers from an Old School PC Builder and long time Gamer.
 
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