Question PC Crashing, No Blue Screen

[mechanocs]

Hello everyone, sorry if this is a bit long, I've been struggling with this issue for about a year now and I've tried just about everything I can think of, but to no avail. I will try to include as much as I can about everything I've experienced and tried so far.

I've been using this computer for a little over a year and a half. For about a year now, the computer has been crashing at a fairly infrequent yet consistent rate of about once a month. When it crashes, the screen goes black and all running programs seem to stop, but the lights and fans and everything all seem to remain on. I never actually see a blue screen of death.

Troubleshooting this has been extremely difficult since my computer never seems to succeed in creating memory dump files after these crashes, even though I've verified many times now that it's configured to do so. Nothing other than power kernel shows up in event log either. Earlier today, I decided to try some keyboard manually initiated crashes (the ctrl + scroll lock crash), and as it so happens, I got an actual blue screen and memory dump files.

The crashes only seem to happen when I'm playing one specific video game (Genshin Impact if it matters). I play plenty of other games and never a crash. So I suppose you could say that my crashes generally only happen under load, but I've tried running stress tests from AIDA64 Extreme for 30+ minutes (and I know these tests are stressing my hardware way more than any game I'm playing) and have not experienced any crashes during the tests.

I have just about beaten my drivers to death at this point. I am 99.99% certain that all of my drivers are up to date, and I can definitely guarantee that my GPU drivers are never out of date. The only thing I could possibly say is that I have had known issues with my headphones before (HyperX Cloud II). The official driver for these headphones is seemingly just bad and incompatible with Windows. I saw event log messages that confirmed the driver was crashing and causing some crashes, and the manufacturers seem to have no intention of fixing this, so I uninstalled the driver and used the registry editor to forbid Windows from ever reinstalling it. So now, it just shows up in my device manager as an unknown device with an exclamation mark next to it. I don't know if that can cause crashes or not- the headphones do still function perfectly fine for me.

I've done all of the Windows integrity checks I know of. I actually did find and repair some corrupted Windows files through sfc scannow and DISM, but the crashes persisted all the same.

Just about the only remaining territory that I can possibly explore is a hardware issue. I haven't really wanted to entertain the idea because of how frankly pathetic I feel it would be for something to be failing like this so soon out of the box, but I'm just about at my wit's end here, so I guess I have to consider the possibility that my hardware is already failing. What steps can/should I take to diagnose my hardware? And of course, if you have any other ideas about what could be causing this issue, I would greatly appreciate it!

CPU AMD Ryzen 9 3900X Processor (12x 3.8GHZ/64MB L3 Cache)
GPU NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 - 10GB GDDR6X
Motherboard ASRock X570 PHANTOM GAMING 4
RAM 32 GB [8 GB x4] DDR4-3200 Memory Module - ADATA XPG SPECTRIX D41
SSD 2TB Samsung 870 QVO SSD
PSU 800 Watt - High Power - 80 PLUS Gold
OS Windows 10 Home (64-bit)

I will also admit that I am not the most enlightened guru for selecting parts. I didn't think there should be any issues, but if there are glaring system incompatibility problems and that could be the cause of this, please do also let me know.

 

[rgd1101]

is this a cyberpower pc?

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, I see two, maybe three problems here. One of them is a likely poor quality power supply, but we need to know the EXACT actual model of the PSU so take a look at the label on the side of the PSU and give us that model or series number.

The other is that you have what is arguably the very worst of the X570 motherboards with a fairly weak VRM configuration. No heatsink on half the VRMs. And a 3900x with PBO enabled can pull like 170w which is more than enough to require a board with at least a halfway decent VRM configuration and full heatsinks.

Additionally I see you have four DIMMs installed. Try taking out the DIMMs in the A1 and B1 slots and see if you still have the same problem. What is the exact model of your memory kit and did it ALL come in one kit or was this two kits put together?

 

[mechanocs]

is this a cyberpower pc?

Yes it is. I simply don't know anywhere near enough to actually build a computer from scratch by myself. So suffice to say it would have come out even worse if I had done it lol.

If you have constructive advice about how to do it better in the future, or you want to say that the computer build is trash, that's fine, all I would ask is that you try to keep it respectful lol.

 

[mechanocs]

So, I see two, maybe three problems here. One of them is a likely poor quality power supply, but we need to know the EXACT actual model of the PSU so take a look at the label on the side of the PSU and give us that model or series number.

The other is that you have what is arguably the very worst of the X570 motherboards with a fairly weak VRM configuration. No heatsink on half the VRMs. And a 3900x with PBO enabled can pull like 170w which is more than enough to require a board with at least a halfway decent VRM configuration and full heatsinks.

Additionally I see you have four DIMMs installed. Try taking out the DIMMs in the A1 and B1 slots and see if you still have the same problem. What is the exact model of your memory kit and did it ALL come in one kit or was this two kits put together?

Alright, well I'll try to take a look and see exactly what my PSU is. I guess they just picked out whatever they wanted/had on hand. And even aside from that, yeah I suppose there are indeed issues with things that I was just not savvy enough to realize. I guess I will have to take that as a sign that I need to do more of my homework next time.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Most people don't realize how bad Cyberpower PC and iBuypower PC really are as prebuilt vendors. We literally have a thread with example after example, and it certainly doesn't include all of them, only the worst ones, because it had become so prevalent over time that these companies were sending out poorly planned, assembled and configured systems. So it's not really "your" fault, although you are right that had you done a bit more homework you MIGHT have been a little more inclined to avoid them. But the hardware itself isn't necessarily "bottom of the barrel". Just maybe not what it ought to be considering the CPU and graphics card in use.

Couple of things I'd do FIRST.

One, make sure you have the MOST up to date motherboard BIOS version installed.

Two, visit the product page for your motherboard and download/install the most recent drivers for chipset (.inf), audio controller, network adapter (LAN/Ethernet) and honestly, knowing how badly they tend to botch the installation of Windows and pack in a bunch of unwanted software, it might not be the worst idea to simply do a CLEAN install of Windows before tending to the motherboard drivers. Sure, it's going to be a bit more work especially if you don't already have all your important data and personal files backed up elsewhere, as you'll want to do that, but in the end it might save you a lot of time and frustration if the problem is simply a poor Windows configuration with a bunch of Cyberpower installed bloatware.

And since a lot of crashes without a blue screen involve problems with memory instructions, as well as drivers, as I mentioned before it would be a good idea to try using only TWO memory modules, installed in the A2 and B2 slots, to see if you still have problems and if you do swap those two out for the other two you removed and try it again. Could just be a problem with a bad memory module OR a problem with having four DIMMs installed but need to bump up the DRAM voltage a little bit to account for a full boat of memory installed. Four DIMMs tend to need more voltage than two and also it's very possible that Cyberpower may have installed two separate memory kits, with two DIMMs in each kit.

If they did, then even if the two kits were the exact same model as each other they could STILL have compatibility issues that are causing your problem.

Running Memtest on the full four DIMM configuration might not be the worst idea ever.

Memtest86​

Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.

Click here to download Memtest86 USB package​

Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.


No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.

 

[mechanocs]

Most people don't realize how bad Cyberpower PC and iBuypower PC really are as prebuilt vendors. We literally have a thread with example after example, and it certainly doesn't include all of them, only the worst ones, because it had become so prevalent over time that these companies were sending out poorly planned, assembled and configured systems. So it's not really "your" fault, although you are right that had you done a bit more homework you MIGHT have been a little more inclined to avoid them. But the hardware itself isn't necessarily "bottom of the barrel". Just maybe not what it ought to be considering the CPU and graphics card in use.

Couple of things I'd do FIRST.

One, make sure you have the MOST up to date motherboard BIOS version installed.

Two, visit the product page for your motherboard and download/install the most recent drivers for chipset (.inf), audio controller, network adapter (LAN/Ethernet) and honestly, knowing how badly they tend to botch the installation of Windows and pack in a bunch of unwanted software, it might not be the worst idea to simply do a CLEAN install of Windows before tending to the motherboard drivers. Sure, it's going to be a bit more work especially if you don't already have all your important data and personal files backed up elsewhere, as you'll want to do that, but in the end it might save you a lot of time and frustration if the problem is simply a poor Windows configuration with a bunch of Cyberpower installed bloatware.

And since a lot of crashes without a blue screen involve problems with memory instructions, as well as drivers, as I mentioned before it would be a good idea to try using only TWO memory modules, installed in the A2 and B2 slots, to see if you still have problems and if you do swap those two out for the other two you removed and try it again. Could just be a problem with a bad memory module OR a problem with having four DIMMs installed but need to bump up the DRAM voltage a little bit to account for a full boat of memory installed. Four DIMMs tend to need more voltage than two and also it's very possible that Cyberpower may have installed two separate memory kits, with two DIMMs in each kit.

If they did, then even if the two kits were the exact same model as each other they could STILL have compatibility issues that are causing your problem.

Running Memtest on the full four DIMM configuration might not be the worst idea ever.

Memtest86​

Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.

Click here to download Memtest86 USB package​

Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.


No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.

Thank you for the insightful reply!

As it turns out, I'm having a difficult time identifying my power supply. There isn't any sort of name or number on any of the sides I'm able to see with both sude panels of my case off. I think I would have to get pretty invasive and start taking things out in order to see it, and I'm just not sure I really want to do that.

And while I definitely appreciate the troubleshooting advice, at this point I'm kind of crossing the line of wanting to just cut my losses with this computer, maybe sell the graphics card because that's probably still fine, and start from scratch with a new one. Even if something like a clean windows install and BIOS updates (which are both a bit of work already) help, it's sounding like the problems run much deeper than that and I'm definitely doubting that I'm gonna be able to really fix them all.

I appreciate your help, but I think it may be time for me to just start asking around for help with building a better PC next time as opposed to trying to troubleshoot this one.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Are you planning to build this yourself or are you planning to get a shop or other boutique builder to do it for you?

 

[mechanocs]

Are you planning to build this yourself or are you planning to get a shop or other boutique builder to do it for you?

I would definitely like to do the latter. I'm just being honest, right now I don't have the skills to confidently build a high end computer myself. Any recommendations are welcome!

 

[Darkbreeze]

Well, honestly, any REPUTABLE repair shop should be able to do this for you for a standard assembly fee and likely also an additional small fee to install and configure Windows for you if you need that done. Knowing who is reputable and who is questionable is always the problem though.

Where are you located and I might be able to at least guide you towards a few good options based on criteria I know to look for when checking out such businesses?

What kind of budget do you think you want to work with?

If we're being honest, unless you have deep pockets and really have your heart set on or prefer to simply go with newer parts, the majority of what you have there isn't terrible. Very decent in fact. At the very least I think I would KEEP the graphics card, unless you feel you are needing something more powerful, because it's not that old and is still an admirable performer, although it's true that brand new AMD and Intel CPUs are coming out very soon and new Nvidia cards are supposed to be on the horizon as well. Maybe build the new system and keep the current graphics card, and then when the newer ones come out if you still feel the need to upgrade the card THEN you sell your current one and upgrade to the Nvidia 4xxx series which is supposedly significantly more capable BUT also equally more power hungry as well.

 

[mechanocs]

Well, honestly, any REPUTABLE repair shop should be able to do this for you for a standard assembly fee and likely also an additional small fee to install and configure Windows for you if you need that done. Knowing who is reputable and who is questionable is always the problem though.

Where are you located and I might be able to at least guide you towards a few good options based on criteria I know to look for when checking out such businesses?

What kind of budget do you think you want to work with?

If we're being honest, unless you have deep pockets and really have your heart set on or prefer to simply go with newer parts, the majority of what you have there isn't terrible. Very decent in fact. At the very least I think I would KEEP the graphics card, unless you feel you are needing something more powerful, because it's not that old and is still an admirable performer, although it's true that brand new AMD and Intel CPUs are coming out very soon and new Nvidia cards are supposed to be on the horizon as well. Maybe build the new system and keep the current graphics card, and then when the newer ones come out if you still feel the need to upgrade the card THEN you sell your current one and upgrade to the Nvidia 4xxx series which is supposedly significantly more capable BUT also equally more power hungry as well.

I live in southern Maryland, so any place in DC or Baltimore would work for me!

I spend several hours every day on my computer and I'm fortunately able to afford the high end hardware, so really I will always consider it a worthwhile investment, even if I would have rather not parted way with another few thousand dollars so soon after buying this one. If I need to spend 4 or 5k, or perhaps even more, for something I'm happy with, then I will.

Perhaps one reservation I have about keeping the graphics card is the manufacturer (though I don't know exactly how much it matters and exactly who all is good or bad). It looks like my 3080 is from Gigabyte. I've heard good things about MSI, and again I guess I'm definitely no expert here, but I also feel after getting this computer that there may be a lot of value in having as many things as possible come from the same manufacturer in terms of silly eye candy things like RGB coordination? Is there any value in losing a few hundred dollars between selling my Gigabyte and going for a different manufacturer?

 

[Darkbreeze]

EVGA is who you want. I believe they have, hands down, the best cards and the best customer support in the graphics card industry when it comes to gaming cards anyhow.

MSI, Sapphire, Gigabyte, ASUS, Zotac, Gainward, XFX, ASRock, these companies all make decent gaming cards, especially the first four, but it's pretty common knowledge among experienced builders and enthusiasts that EVGA tends to have somewhat higher quality and much better customer service in every regard, than these others, which isn't surprising since they've been doing it longer than almost anybody else on that list except maybe MSI. But MSI is a crap company. They are morally corrupt and have no issues trying to strongarm smaller companies and reviewers into falling in line with company proclamations, which has been resisted and documented by a number of sources but notably by Gamers Nexus. I try to not give them any of my money unless it's a deal on something too good to pass up for the price and then, only after serious consideration and weighing budget against the customers needs. For myself, I won't buy their products at all anymore. Maybe someday if they clean up their act, otherwise, I have only one way to vote against this kind of behavior and that is with my wallet. I encourage others to do the same.

EVGA also offers some things other companies do NOT offer, such as a 90 day Step UP program.

EVGA - Support - Step-Up® Program

Step-Up® Program

www.evga.com

They also offer very affordable extended warranty programs.

https://www.evga.com/warranty/extended/

And unlike any other manufacturer that I am aware of, unless somebody else has begun offering this as well, they are the ONLY graphics card manufacturer whose warranty follows the card if you sell it to somebody else. Most of them only warrant the product for the initial purchaser.

https://www.evga.com/articles/archive/00671/default.asp

And I have NEVER had a problem dealing with them regarding warranty or any other type of issues on any EVGA graphics card or power supply product. So, that's my shameless pitch for EVGA.

Trying to stay with the same brand is probably a poor idea since it has no discernible benefit and might actually result in a lower quality product since generally the best product in a given category, for the price, is not going to usually be from the same product manufacturer. Going with the best product you can get for the price you have to work with, for any given component, is what we try to do and what makes sense to do unless the only thing you care about it looks and flashiness, and you've already seen what that can do for you. Looks are fine and great, but it should take a backseat to first making sure you get good quality and performance, good warranty and customer support and full compatibility.

I'll look into reputable builders in your area. Might even be somebody among those around here willing to do it for a reasonable fee as I know there are several in that area that are veteran members here and do quality work on the side. I'll ask around on that as well.

 

[mechanocs]

EVGA is who you want. I believe they have, hands down, the best cards and the best customer support in the graphics card industry when it comes to gaming cards anyhow.

MSI, Sapphire, Gigabyte, ASUS, Zotac, Gainward, XFX, ASRock, these companies all make decent gaming cards, especially the first four, but it's pretty common knowledge among experienced builders and enthusiasts that EVGA tends to have somewhat higher quality and much better customer service in every regard, than these others, which isn't surprising since they've been doing it longer than almost anybody else on that list except maybe MSI. But MSI is a crap company. They are morally corrupt and have no issues trying to strongarm smaller companies and reviewers into falling in line with company proclamations, which has been resisted and documented by a number of sources but notably by Gamers Nexus. I try to not give them any of my money unless it's a deal on something too good to pass up for the price and then, only after serious consideration and weighing budget against the customers needs. For myself, I won't buy their products at all anymore. Maybe someday if they clean up their act, otherwise, I have only one way to vote against this kind of behavior and that is with my wallet. I encourage others to do the same.

EVGA also offers some things other companies do NOT offer, such as a 90 day Step UP program.

EVGA - Support - Step-Up® Program

Step-Up® Program

www.evga.com

They also offer very affordable extended warranty programs.

https://www.evga.com/warranty/extended/

And unlike any other manufacturer that I am aware of, unless somebody else has begun offering this as well, they are the ONLY graphics card manufacturer whose warranty follows the card if you sell it to somebody else. Most of them only warrant the product for the initial purchaser.

https://www.evga.com/articles/archive/00671/default.asp

And I have NEVER had a problem dealing with them regarding warranty or any other type of issues on any EVGA graphics card or power supply product. So, that's my shameless pitch for EVGA.

Trying to stay with the same brand is probably a poor idea since it has no discernible benefit and might actually result in a lower quality product since generally the best product in a given category, for the price, is not going to usually be from the same product manufacturer. Going with the best product you can get for the price you have to work with, for any given component, is what we try to do and what makes sense to do unless the only thing you care about it looks and flashiness, and you've already seen what that can do for you. Looks are fine and great, but it should take a backseat to first making sure you get good quality and performance, good warranty and customer support and full compatibility.

I'll look into reputable builders in your area. Might even be somebody among those around here willing to do it for a reasonable fee as I know there are several in that area that are veteran members here and do quality work on the side. I'll ask around on that as well.

I see. Well I'll definitely see if I can get my hands on a EVGA card then!

And I really appreciate your willingness to help me find a reputable person or shop! Especially this time, I would also like to have a little help from someone who knows what they're doing to make sure that everything I'm picking out and what I'm trying to do will actually work well, before any of the assembling starts.

Thank you very much again! You've gone so far out of your way to explain all of this to someone as clueless as me, while also staying totally polite and respectful despite my ignorance. I appreciate it!

 

[Darkbreeze]

This is what I, and many others here, enjoy doing in some of our free time. It is it's own reward to help others with the process of selecting a quality build or with troubleshooting problems on their existing builds. No worries.

I think you are underselling yourself in regard to what you could accomplish on your own with a little assistance to walk you through it when it comes to building a system or even just working on one, since I've helped several young people (Just this last Monday the grandson of one of my clients built his first system and while I was on hand to walk him through the steps and offer guidance he had little trouble and probably could have eventually done just as well using the Newegg build a PC videos that walk you through every step.) to build their own systems and if a 10 year old can do it I think most intelligent people can do it, but I also respect everybody's own assessments on this and when somebody says "nope" then it's nope. LOL.

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, as of today, maybe not on the choice of EVGA. This is unbelievable, but considering the source it's basically irrefutable and marks a sad day in the tech industry if everything referenced is accurate. Seems like the end of an era.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cV9QES-FUAM