[SOLVED] PC desktop for CAD system that can handle 3-d rendering

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amacbabe

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I would like to build a new PC desktop- First time doing so.
Hoping for some advice to see if I off base- System will be used for CAD only with 3-d colored renderings- No gaming will be used for the sytem.
This is what I was thinking- hoping for some feedback-
Not sure if I am missing anything or some of the parts may not work together
thanks
- Intel Core i9-9900K Coffee Lake 8-Core, 16-Thread, 3.6 GHz (5.0 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series) 95W BX80684I99900K Desktop Processor Intel UHD Graphics 630

- GPU- Quaddro P2000 5GB Graphics

- ASUS Prime Z390-A/H10 Motherboard Bundled Intel Optane Memory H10 with Solid State Storage (32GB + 512GB) LGA1151 (Intel 8th and 9th Gen) ATX DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 USB 3.1 Gen2 Gigabit LAN

- CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3600 (PC4 28800) Intel XMP 2.0 Desktop Memory Model CMK32GX4M2D3600C18

-Fractal Design Meshify C Black ATX High-Airflow Compact Dark Tint Tempered Glass Window Mid Tower Computer Case

- Seagate IronWolf Pro ST4000NE001 4TB 7200 RPM 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

- SAMSUNG 860 EVO Series 2.5" 500GB SATA III V-NAND 3-bit MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-76E500B/AM

-Fractal Design Celsius+ S24 Dynamic X2 PWM Black 240mm Silent Performance Slim Radiator AIO CPU Liquid/Water Cooler

- Microsoft Windows 10 Home - Full Retail Version (USB Flash Drive)

- GIGABYTE G32QC 32" 165Hz 1440P Curved Gaming Monitor, 2560 x 1440 VA 1500R Display, 1ms (MPRT) Response Time, 94% DCI-P3, VESA Display HDR400, FreeSync Premium Pro, G-Sync Compatible Ready, 1x Display Port 1.2, 2x HDMI 2.0, 2x USB 3.0
 
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Solution
First, congratulations on accomplishing your first full build. This was a rather advanced system and you weathered the bumps in the road amazingly well. Props.

I would check for driver updates every couple of months or so for the first year, and after that, only if there are problems. Most motherboards don't get many driver updates after the first year, even fewer after the second and practically none unless something is found that poses a security risk after the third, OR, if new hardware is released and it is NEEDED by way of BIOS or driver support in order to use it AND the system is still new enough to be worth using with said hardware so that the manufacturer actually gets enough feedback to goad them into providing it.

To be...

Turtle Rig

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No one got to the meat of it. As to what CPU and GPU and RAM and MOBO he needs. If OP is doing CAD work and 3D Modeling work then single core matters and you can grab a 9900k with a z390 aorus elite for 550 together. couple that with 32GB Ram Kit of G.Skill RipJaws 3200Mhz and a 650w EVGA Bronze 80+ rating and a 2070 card. 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♀️🚔💯😲✝
 
CPU fan needs to be connected to the "CPU_FAN" header on the motherboard. The other fans, CAN be connected to the case fan hub, but you will be able to get a MUCH better fine tune on your fan behavior if you connect them directly to the motherboard headers and then go into the BIOS and adjust the fan profile for each case fan separately. You will likely need to change the setting for each fan to "DC control" in the BIOS because they will likely be set to "PWM" mode by default and I believe the fans you get with that case, and the one you purchased, are all 3 pin DC controlled, not PWM.
 
No one got to the meat of it. As to what CPU and GPU and RAM and MOBO he needs. If OP is doing CAD work and 3D Modeling work then single core matters and you can grab a 9900k with a z390 aorus elite for 550 together. couple that with 32GB Ram Kit of G.Skill RipJaws 3200Mhz and a 650w EVGA Bronze 80+ rating and a 2070 card. 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♀️🚔💯😲✝
We are long past this. So, really, your comment has little relevance to the thread because he is already assembling. The time for input on the component selection is long over. Besides which, your assumption that "CAD work and 3D modeling" are merely single core dependent is based largely on assumption. Whether or not something favors single or multi core performance depends entirely on the specific application AND also what ELSE you are doing at the same time. A lot of professionals are running MULTIPLE high end applications, and when that's the case, having a lot of memory and many cores is definitely more important than few stronger ones. Regardless, AMD pretty much dominates across the board in most current version productivity softwares.
 

amacbabe

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Mar 3, 2020
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Still waiting on the power supply- should arrive tomorrow- When hooking up the power - should I do any checks first before making all the connections?
Also when loading Windows 10 from usb stick, should I make sure I have the internal hard drive unplugged and to make sure within BIO that will be booting from the SSD drive? Also, can I connect my external dvd player at this point and put in the dvd from MSI that came with my motherboard (drivers and utilities) or should I just connect to the internet and go to msi website and get necessary drivers
 
There should only be two drives connected when you are installing Windows. The drive you are installing from, which will usually be a USB flash drive but in some cases might be a DVD drive, and the drive you are installing to. All other drives should be disconnected until after Windows is installed and you've shut back down.

In the BIOS, when first installing Windows, it doesn't really matter what the boot order is set to because you are going to have to change it to the Windows boot manager anyhow later if it doesn't do it automatically, which it usually will. You can simply set this to the drive you are installing Windows on for now if you wish. However, you WILL want to go into the BIOS when you are ready to start the installation of Windows and change a few settings in preparation for making a FULL UEFI installation.

Find and configure the following settings in the BIOS prior to beginning the installation of Windows.

Disable CSM.
Enable Secure boot or UEFI settings. These may have minor differences from one board to the next.
You can do a little research about how to enable FULL UEFI mode for your specific motherboard, so that you will know exactly which settings are recommended, if any, to be changed.

Usually, simply going into the BIOS and choosing the load optimal default settings option first, and then going and disabling CSM (Compatibility support module, which is for legacy hardware) will do the trick. Then find the option in the BIOS for a one time boot from specific devices, which in this case will likely only list your flash drive if it is plugged in. Be sure to plug it in BEFORE you go into the BIOS to prepare for the Windows installation so that the BIOS will know it is there.

Do NOT use the DVD that came from MSI or any of your hardware manufacturers for drivers. Those will be outdated drivers. Go directly to the product page for your motherboard, whether after the Windows installation OR using a different device, and download the MOST recent drivers directly from your motherboard product page.

For the chipset driver, don't use the one on the motherboard product page, use the one on the AMD website located, in fact, these are the drivers you want to download and use:


AMD B450 chipset drivers: https://www.amd.com/en/support/chipsets/amd-socket-am4/b450

Onboard Bluetooth driver: https://download.msi.com/dvr_exe/mb/bt_driver_WT.zip

Onboard Intel LAN driver: https://download.msi.com/dvr_exe/mb/Intel_Network_WT.zip

Onboard Intel WiFi driver: https://download.msi.com/dvr_exe/mb/intel_wifi_driver_WT.zip

Audio driver: https://download.msi.com/dvr_exe/mb/realtek_audio_N.zip

Note:
Must update Nahimic 3 in Microsoft store after updating Realtek HD Universal Driver.
Recommend installing this driver for Windows 10 RS3 or later versions.
Include Nahimic APO Driver.

Nahemic: https://www.nahimic.com/gamers/
 
Unfortunately, this board doesn't have an internal connector for USB C connections. If you want to use a USB C connection there is one on the back of the motherboard you can use or even connect a USB type C hub to if you need to have a more convenient connection point. I believe there are also adapters you can get that can be installed in one of the PCIe x1 or x4 slots on the motherboard to connect the USB Type C front panel wiring to as well.

This is the only drawback to a slightly older motherboard chipset, although not all of the latest boards have them either. USB C is still not a widely adopted standard and is only now beginning to see widespread adoption for devices. There are very few USB C drives or other hardware in comparison to Type A devices, but it is growing quickly.

I did think the Gaming Pro Carbon WiFi had an internal USB C connector but apparently that is only on newer chipsets. I appologize if that is a feature you had your heart set on being able to use. For most, it's really not a deal breaker as there are really not yet that many devices that use it and there is also the option of simply getting a USB C extension cable that can be always connected to the rear USB C port that you can easily plug into in front if you need to.
 

amacbabe

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Mar 3, 2020
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Unfortunately, this board doesn't have an internal connector for USB C connections. If you want to use a USB C connection there is one on the back of the motherboard you can use or even connect a USB type C hub to if you need to have a more convenient connection point. I believe there are also adapters you can get that can be installed in one of the PCIe x1 or x4 slots on the motherboard to connect the USB Type C front panel wiring to as well.

This is the only drawback to a slightly older motherboard chipset, although not all of the latest boards have them either. USB C is still not a widely adopted standard and is only now beginning to see widespread adoption for devices. There are very few USB C drives or other hardware in comparison to Type A devices, but it is growing quickly.

I did think the Gaming Pro Carbon WiFi had an internal USB C connector but apparently that is only on newer chipsets. I appologize if that is a feature you had your heart set on being able to use. For most, it's really not a deal breaker as there are really not yet that many devices that use it and there is also the option of simply getting a USB C extension cable that can be always connected to the rear USB C port that you can easily plug into in front if you need to.
no worries - not a big deal- i just received my power supply- trying to figure with ends of the cords go to power supply and which ends to go parts in computer, ie cpu, graphic card, hard drive and 24 pin connector
 

amacbabe

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Mar 3, 2020
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thanks Got it-
last thing for now- I am looking at the case fan connectors- looks like they are all 3 pin connectors, motherboard fan pins are 4 pins- Am I forced to use the case fan hub because of this?
 

amacbabe

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Can I also plug in the power cord and turn power onto the computer without my keyboard/mouse/monitor setup or should I connect too for a test startup. I just want to make sure I have power and make sure everything seems connected
 

amacbabe

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Mar 3, 2020
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Okay, I was able to start up my system, however, I am unable to see anything on the monitor and there is a red light next BOOT on the mother board- Suggestions? just trying to get to the BIOS
 
Case fans. No, you don't need to use the case fan hub, but you CAN if you want. I prefer connecting directly to the motherboard for more granular control of each fan, but it's certainly ok to use them if you want. Line up the "Key" to the "Keyway" on the connector and fan header, and then you can change the input type in the BIOS settings once you get in there, from PWM to DC control and configure the fan curve for each fan header as well.

Yes, you want keyboard, monitor, mouse connected, else you'll just see the system stop due to errors, unless those options are disabled in the BIOS, which they won't be by default.

Make sure, for now anyhow, that NO drives are connected. They are not needed in order to POST, and POST is all we want for now so that we can get into the BIOS and assure ourselves that the system is working correctly.

Make sure the CPU cooler is connected to the CPU_FAN header, and no other. Make sure the case fans are connected to the correct fan headers and that they are lined up with the three pins that are centered on the "key" for each header, as seen here. Just ignore that this is a four pin connector and pretend that it is only a three pin. It will still have the same alignment tabs on it and that is how you make sure it is connected correctly.

kA090000000MrmX_4.jpg
 

amacbabe

Commendable
Mar 3, 2020
66
0
1,530
There should only be two drives connected when you are installing Windows. The drive you are installing from, which will usually be a USB flash drive but in some cases might be a DVD drive, and the drive you are installing to. All other drives should be disconnected until after Windows is installed and you've shut back down.

In the BIOS, when first installing Windows, it doesn't really matter what the boot order is set to because you are going to have to change it to the Windows boot manager anyhow later if it doesn't do it automatically, which it usually will. You can simply set this to the drive you are installing Windows on for now if you wish. However, you WILL want to go into the BIOS when you are ready to start the installation of Windows and change a few settings in preparation for making a FULL UEFI installation.

Find and configure the following settings in the BIOS prior to beginning the installation of Windows.

Disable CSM.
Enable Secure boot or UEFI settings. These may have minor differences from one board to the next.
You can do a little research about how to enable FULL UEFI mode for your specific motherboard, so that you will know exactly which settings are recommended, if any, to be changed.

Usually, simply going into the BIOS and choosing the load optimal default settings option first, and then going and disabling CSM (Compatibility support module, which is for legacy hardware) will do the trick. Then find the option in the BIOS for a one time boot from specific devices, which in this case will likely only list your flash drive if it is plugged in. Be sure to plug it in BEFORE you go into the BIOS to prepare for the Windows installation so that the BIOS will know it is there.

Do NOT use the DVD that came from MSI or any of your hardware manufacturers for drivers. Those will be outdated drivers. Go directly to the product page for your motherboard, whether after the Windows installation OR using a different device, and download the MOST recent drivers directly from your motherboard product page.

For the chipset driver, don't use the one on the motherboard product page, use the one on the AMD website located, in fact, these are the drivers you want to download and use:


AMD B450 chipset drivers: https://www.amd.com/en/support/chipsets/amd-socket-am4/b450

Onboard Bluetooth driver: https://download.msi.com/dvr_exe/mb/bt_driver_WT.zip

Onboard Intel LAN driver: https://download.msi.com/dvr_exe/mb/Intel_Network_WT.zip

Onboard Intel WiFi driver: https://download.msi.com/dvr_exe/mb/intel_wifi_driver_WT.zip

Audio driver: https://download.msi.com/dvr_exe/mb/realtek_audio_N.zip

Note:
Must update Nahimic 3 in Microsoft store after updating Realtek HD Universal Driver.
Recommend installing this driver for Windows 10 RS3 or later versions.
Include Nahimic APO Driver.

Nahemic: https://www.nahimic.com/gamers/
Okay, got the AMD chipset in and installed and audio too but the other two when I open the folder not sure what to select to execute
 
You don't need an antivirus program. Windows defender does a very good job, and it's already a part of Windows, so there's really no reason to pile on any additional code bloat and resource hogging when there's already a very good solution built in. Just use Windows defender.

Not sure what you mean by "don't know what to execute". Post an image of the folder contents.
 

amacbabe

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Mar 3, 2020
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not sure what subfile to select for LAN , Bluetooth and Wifi , to make sure I have the right drivers. Also, I have how do I customize the fans after I change them to DC
 
Try deleting the folders and downloading them again. Then unzip them to their own folder. If the files in the driver package look the same the second time then open the "Win10" folder seen in your screenshot and see if there is an installer in that folder. If there is, run that.

As far as the fan control, in the BIOS in the Smart fan control section, you can play around with the fan curve to find what works best for you or you can simply use one of the presets like standard, silent, performance, whatever you prefer. Personally, I prefer using either silent or creating a manual fan curve that uses the motherboard thermal sensor info, not CPU, VRM or other sources. For the CPU fan curve I like it at like 30% fan speed until about 50°C, then 50% fan speed at about 65°C and then 100% fan speed at about 75°C, or something along those lines.

For the case fans, probably about 30% up to about 40°C, then 50% at about 50°C, then 100% at about 60°C, assuming you are using the "motherboard" thermal sensor for that particular fan's source. You can use other "sources" based on your selection in that fan headers properties on the proper tab in the BIOS. Usually this is "health/monitoring" or something similar. I can't remember what MSI calls it on current BIOS.
 
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It probably needs to be initiated. You will need to create a partition on the drive using drive management or a 3rd party utility like Paragon partition manager. Basically, without a partition you can't assign a drive letter and without a drive letter the drive can't be seen by Windows file explorer.


To create a partition from unpartitioned space follow these steps:
  1. Right click This PC and select Manage
  2. Open Disk Management
  3. Select the disk from which you want to make a partition
  4. Right click the Un-partitioned space in the bottom pane and select New Simple Volume
  5. Enter the size and click next and you are done
 
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