Today I went out and bought 250gb samsung ssd, and an evo 212x for my i5 3570k rig. My motherboard is a MSI Z77A - G45 and my psu is a Thermaltake Toughpower XT 775w.
So basically I get the new cpu cooler in, new 1060, start up install windows off a usb stick and do a fresh install onto my 250gb ssd. Once windows is installed, I do the basic install drivers, AV, then shut it off. When my PC is powered down I put both my 500gb 7200rpm hard drives back in that ran my previous system, format them and begin the installation of programs I want onto them. Once I get everything sorted I start running some stress tests which I run for a couple of hours, nothing to rigorous but theres no failures to report at stock clocks. After checking the results I have and seeing if it's within benchmarks of similar equipment, I then turn my attention to overclocking my CPU. I lookup what most people are able to achieve, but before going ahead with this I use the inbuilt OC genie to see what that gives me. It puts me up to 4.2ghz and after running linX for 20 cycles only manages to hit 59 degrees. NOTE: The voltage at this point is on auto and I didn't take note of what I was getting. So I start looking around online at what other people have achieved and 4.2ghz seems to be a fairly safe starting point. So I go to my BIOS and start out at 1.265v to see if that will work, to which windows believes a component to be missing. I hit the cmos clear on the back of my MB so I can apply OC Genie and check out what the auto voltage was reading under load. I press the cmos reset, the PC loads asks me to begin setup (Press F1) continue (press f2). Wasn't paying attention and it automatically went into setup. I exit without saving and now my PC won't even POST. I'm left with a black screen as the fans spin up, the CPU phase lights are all lit which according to my manual means its getting the maximum reliable power. My mouse and keyboard both have LED's and normally light up but now my mouse gets a tiny flicker when the PC is initially turned on.
I REALLY REALLY do not wish to purchase a new cpu/motherboard.
So far I have tried the following:
1) 1 Stick of ram in DimmSlot 2. I have tried the 4 sticks that were in my system + 2 more from another system and no luck. If I move the stick to any other dimmslot the expected happens and the pc reboots. NOTE: I do not hear any beeps when this happens. When in dimmslot 2 the PC fans start and motherboard lights up.
2) 2 sticks of ram in dimm 2 and 4. I read about dual channel potentially being the reason it wouldn't post but this produces the same result as 1 slot of ram in dimm2
3) I have tried 2 graphics cards. 7870 hawk which has the Led's light up and fans spin up and a 7750. I have tried these all in both PCIe 3.0 slots. With all of these cards I have tried two different monitors that use a HDMI connector and a DVI connector.
4) I have tried to boot with no hard drives and only a usb in
Additional information: Aside from when the PC has RAM placed in wrong slots, the computer will remain on and not shut down until I hold the button in. I'm not sure how I can test if the problem is the motherboard or cpu has I do not have a spare or access to a spare as far as I know, but I honestly don't know what the problem is at this point. Prior to changing the voltage everything was working fine.
On my motherboard there are little voltage checkpoints that I'll need to get a multi meter to read.
Much thanks to those who make it here and I eagerly await your responses.
So basically I get the new cpu cooler in, new 1060, start up install windows off a usb stick and do a fresh install onto my 250gb ssd. Once windows is installed, I do the basic install drivers, AV, then shut it off. When my PC is powered down I put both my 500gb 7200rpm hard drives back in that ran my previous system, format them and begin the installation of programs I want onto them. Once I get everything sorted I start running some stress tests which I run for a couple of hours, nothing to rigorous but theres no failures to report at stock clocks. After checking the results I have and seeing if it's within benchmarks of similar equipment, I then turn my attention to overclocking my CPU. I lookup what most people are able to achieve, but before going ahead with this I use the inbuilt OC genie to see what that gives me. It puts me up to 4.2ghz and after running linX for 20 cycles only manages to hit 59 degrees. NOTE: The voltage at this point is on auto and I didn't take note of what I was getting. So I start looking around online at what other people have achieved and 4.2ghz seems to be a fairly safe starting point. So I go to my BIOS and start out at 1.265v to see if that will work, to which windows believes a component to be missing. I hit the cmos clear on the back of my MB so I can apply OC Genie and check out what the auto voltage was reading under load. I press the cmos reset, the PC loads asks me to begin setup (Press F1) continue (press f2). Wasn't paying attention and it automatically went into setup. I exit without saving and now my PC won't even POST. I'm left with a black screen as the fans spin up, the CPU phase lights are all lit which according to my manual means its getting the maximum reliable power. My mouse and keyboard both have LED's and normally light up but now my mouse gets a tiny flicker when the PC is initially turned on.
I REALLY REALLY do not wish to purchase a new cpu/motherboard.
So far I have tried the following:
1) 1 Stick of ram in DimmSlot 2. I have tried the 4 sticks that were in my system + 2 more from another system and no luck. If I move the stick to any other dimmslot the expected happens and the pc reboots. NOTE: I do not hear any beeps when this happens. When in dimmslot 2 the PC fans start and motherboard lights up.
2) 2 sticks of ram in dimm 2 and 4. I read about dual channel potentially being the reason it wouldn't post but this produces the same result as 1 slot of ram in dimm2
3) I have tried 2 graphics cards. 7870 hawk which has the Led's light up and fans spin up and a 7750. I have tried these all in both PCIe 3.0 slots. With all of these cards I have tried two different monitors that use a HDMI connector and a DVI connector.
4) I have tried to boot with no hard drives and only a usb in
Additional information: Aside from when the PC has RAM placed in wrong slots, the computer will remain on and not shut down until I hold the button in. I'm not sure how I can test if the problem is the motherboard or cpu has I do not have a spare or access to a spare as far as I know, but I honestly don't know what the problem is at this point. Prior to changing the voltage everything was working fine.
On my motherboard there are little voltage checkpoints that I'll need to get a multi meter to read.
Much thanks to those who make it here and I eagerly await your responses.
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