[SOLVED] pc doesn’t turn on with two ram sticks, but does start with one.

Dec 9, 2021
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So basically my pc randomly got caught in a reboot loop, it’s a prebuilt from cyber power and only a year old. I took one stick of ram out and it would run fine, and I’ve done all the usual checks to see if it’s the slots or if it’s the ram itself but it’s not because either or works aslong as it’s one stick.

My motherboard is a Msi b450m pro vdh max, when it does this reboot think it always skips the dram light on my motherboard even with the one stick in. I’ve replaced the power supply and the motherboard with the same ones to see it it’s just faulty but no progress.
 

Aeacus

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If MoBo is replaced, then it's safe to assume that these two RAM sticks doesn't want to work together anymore.

Since it's prebuilt from poor reputation firm (Do note that firm name is CyberPowerPC! CyberPower, without the "PC" in the end, is one of the best UPS manufacturers and i happen to have their UPSes in use as well. So, don't be a cheapskate and do write the whole name, as in CyberPowerPC.), it is unknown if the RAM they put in there was in the set at the first place. Could've been where they took single sticks, that didn't come as a set from manufacturer and just slapped them in. In that case, it's a wonder that they did work together at all.

There isn't anything you can do, to make them work together. You could RMA your whole PC, so that CyberPowerPC replaces the defective RAM, but i think you'd face hard times in RMA process since you already replaced MoBo and PSU.
Another thing you can do, is buy a new RAM, that comes in a set of 2 sticks. This way, you get the same amount of RAM you had earlier, or you can go even for more RAM.
 
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Aeacus

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If MoBo is replaced, then it's safe to assume that these two RAM sticks doesn't want to work together anymore.

Since it's prebuilt from poor reputation firm (Do note that firm name is CyberPowerPC! CyberPower, without the "PC" in the end, is one of the best UPS manufacturers and i happen to have their UPSes in use as well. So, don't be a cheapskate and do write the whole name, as in CyberPowerPC.), it is unknown if the RAM they put in there was in the set at the first place. Could've been where they took single sticks, that didn't come as a set from manufacturer and just slapped them in. In that case, it's a wonder that they did work together at all.

There isn't anything you can do, to make them work together. You could RMA your whole PC, so that CyberPowerPC replaces the defective RAM, but i think you'd face hard times in RMA process since you already replaced MoBo and PSU.
Another thing you can do, is buy a new RAM, that comes in a set of 2 sticks. This way, you get the same amount of RAM you had earlier, or you can go even for more RAM.
 
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Aeacus has a very good point. When you purchase a prebuilt PC with 2 RAM sticks, most people assume the the RAM came packaged as a set of 2 to the company that put the PC together, but I'm sure the company does not guarantee it.

If you're willing to absorb the cost, I'd purchase another set of RAM and give that a try.
 
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Aeacus

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but I'm sure the company does not guarantee it.
Nowadays, it isn't too hard to assemble the PC on your own. Just read the holy bible of PCs (aka MoBo manual) and you're good. Even PC cases come with hardware installation manuals. This (mismatched RAM) among other reasons (with anyone can see from GamersNexus reviews of prebuilt PCs), are reasons why i don't buy prebuilts. I buy components separately and assemble by myself.

Another prebuilt vs DIY is warranty. With prebuilt, and if single component dies, you have to send back the whole PC. And if shipping is calculated by weight (which it usually is), shipping bill alone can be hefty. Now, with DIY, when component goes bad, you only need to RMA that single component, keeping the rest you have. And if you have replacement (maybe weaker/smaller), then you can still use your PC until RMA process completes.

Oh, there's also pride in it when you assemble yourself. Don't know about others, but i feel proud that i've assembled all of my PCs on my own. :)
 
Dec 9, 2021
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If MoBo is replaced, then it's safe to assume that these two RAM sticks doesn't want to work together anymore.

Since it's prebuilt from poor reputation firm (Do note that firm name is CyberPowerPC! CyberPower, without the "PC" in the end, is one of the best UPS manufacturers and i happen to have their UPSes in use as well. So, don't be a cheapskate and do write the whole name, as in CyberPowerPC.), it is unknown if the RAM they put in there was in the set at the first place. Could've been where they took single sticks, that didn't come as a set from manufacturer and just slapped them in. In that case, it's a wonder that they did work together at all.

There isn't anything you can do, to make them work together. You could RMA your whole PC, so that CyberPowerPC replaces the defective RAM, but i think you'd face hard times in RMA process since you already replaced MoBo and PSU.
Another thing you can do, is buy a new RAM, that comes in a set of 2 sticks. This way, you get the same amount of RAM you had earlier, or you can go even for more RAM.
Okay so I got new ram and it did the same thing as before
 

Aeacus

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I got new ram
As in two sticks in a set, or two individual sticks?

Since it's quite improbable that after replacing MoBo with new one (was the 2nd MoBo new one?) and another set of RAM (is the 2nd RAM as a set?), you still get the same issue, where two RAMs doesn't work together but do work individually.

Oh, you have 4 RAM slot MoBo, try putting the two RAMs into 2nd channel and look if they work. E.g when at primary channel, the RAM would be in slots DIMM_A2 and DIMM_B2, put the RAM into secondary channel: DIMM_A1 and DIMM_B1.

You can also try out all configurations, albeit tedious, you might get lucky, where;
Stick small sticker to each of the RAM sticks, with DIMM1 and DIMM2 written on them, so you can distinguish which would be 1st stick and which would be 2nd stick. Then, test configurations:

DIMM 1 in 1st slot + DIMM 2 in 2nd slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 1st slot + DIMM 2 in 3rd slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 1st slot + DIMM 2 in 4th slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,

DIMM 1 in 2nd slot + DIMM 2 in 1st slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 2nd slot + DIMM 2 in 3rd slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 2nd slot + DIMM 2 in 4th slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,

DIMM 1 in 3rd slot + DIMM 2 in 1st slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 3rd slot + DIMM 2 in 2nd slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 3rd slot + DIMM 2 in 4th slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,

DIMM 1 in 4th slot + DIMM 2 in 1st slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 4th slot + DIMM 2 in 2nd slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 4th slot + DIMM 2 in 3rd slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop.

This above, is the only way to test if you can run two sticks of RAM together or not.
 
Last edited:
Reactions: rickypicky5
Dec 9, 2021
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As in two sticks in a set, or two individual sticks?

Since it's quite improbable that after replacing MoBo with new one (was the 2nd MoBo new one?) and another set of RAM (is the 2nd RAM as a set?), you still get the same issue, where two RAMs doesn't work together but do work individually.

Oh, you have 4 RAM slot MoBo, try putting the two RAMs into 2nd channel and look if they work. E.g when at primary channel, the RAM would be in slots DIMM_A2 and DIMM_B2, put the RAM into secondary channel: DIMM_A1 and DIMM_B1.

You can also try out all configurations, albeit tedious, you might get lucky, where;
Stick small sticker to each of the RAM sticks, with DIMM1 and DIMM2 written on them, so you can distinguish which would be 1st stick and which would be 2nd stick. Then, test configurations:

DIMM 1 in 1st slot + DIMM 2 in 2nd slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 1st slot + DIMM 2 in 3rd slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 1st slot + DIMM 2 in 4th slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,

DIMM 1 in 2nd slot + DIMM 2 in 1st slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 2nd slot + DIMM 2 in 3rd slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 2nd slot + DIMM 2 in 4th slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,

DIMM 1 in 3rd slot + DIMM 2 in 1st slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 3rd slot + DIMM 2 in 2nd slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 3rd slot + DIMM 2 in 4th slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,

DIMM 1 in 4th slot + DIMM 2 in 1st slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 4th slot + DIMM 2 in 2nd slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop,
DIMM 1 in 4th slot + DIMM 2 in 3rd slot - tests - yes/no for reboot loop.

This above, is the only way to test if you can run two sticks of RAM together or not.
Okay so right now it works with two sticks in A1 B1 but I’m so confused to why it won’t work when it’s dual channel or like otherslots. Like we got a new motherboard so I’m just confused and it would be nice if it did work lmao
 
Dec 9, 2021
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Either that, or RAM slots on MoBo died somehow. That is also quite common, albeit not that common as bent CPU/socket pin(s).
I checked the cpu for bent pins, it’s amd so nothing on the slot. The ram slots can’t be messed up bc we got a new motherboard.
 

Aeacus

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Last ditch effort, to understand why RAM set doesn't want to work with your MoBo, despite RAM being in a set is; check your MoBo memory QVL list and look if your RAM is listed in there. If not, then it would explain, somewhat, why it doesn't want to work.

Link: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B450M-PRO-VDH-MAX/support#support-main-block-qvl
Filter the page by the CPU you have.

Though, do note that memory QVL list is more of a guideline, than actual rule. It shows those RAMs that manufacturer has tested and at what speeds + slot population they got with that RAM. Now, if your RAM isn't listed in memory QVL, it doesn't mean that your RAM, flat-out, doesn't work. It should work. But the key here is "should". It isn't a guarantee that it will work perfectly fine. For perfectly fine working RAM, buy the one that is listed in memory QVL, since that is a guarantee from MoBo manufacturer that the specific RAM will work with that MoBo.
 
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Ralston18

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Will suggest another "tool" that may prove useful with respect to the efforts underway.

Powershell

Open Powershell as Admin and run the following cmdlet:

Get-WmiObject Win32_PhysicalMemory | Format-List *

Take a close look at the results using different RAM modules and RAM slots much as has been suggested by @Aeacus - Post #6.

Compare the results of each stick individually - especially when each stick successfully and individually boots from the same DIMM slot.

Any differences between the RAM sticks?
 
Reactions: Aeacus
Dec 9, 2021
8
0
10
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Will suggest another "tool" that may prove useful with respect to the efforts underway.

Powershell

Open Powershell as Admin and run the following cmdlet:

Get-WmiObject Win32_PhysicalMemory | Format-List *

Take a close look at the results using different RAM modules and RAM slots much as has been suggested by @Aeacus - Post #6.

Compare the results of each stick individually - especially when each stick successfully and individually boots from the same DIMM slot.

Any differences between the RAM sticks?
uh so the ram is compatible, and we got to the point where it worked in A1 b1, it was fine running in that for a while and now regardless of anything it doesn’t launch with any ram anywhere like at all
 

Ralston18

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Moderator
Now the computer is not launching/booting at all - correct? And motherboard #2 correct - ?

Also: "the ram is compatible". How was that determined?

= = = =

Again, as suggested by @Aeacus , refer to the Motherboard's User Guide/Manual to double check all connections and configurations.

Be very careful to install all RAM in a supported configuration.

I found the following User Guide/Manual link:

https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/M7A38v8.1.pdf

[Do verify that I found the applicable motherboard User Manual.]

Note per physically numbered Page 11:

"Overview of Components Overview of Components

Important Always insert memory modules in the DIMMA2 slot first."


= = = =

After reading back:

What make and model PSU is installed?

Wattage, age (1 year?) , condition (new, refurbished, used when installed)? History of heavy PSU use for gaming, video editing, or even bit-mining?

Point being that the efforts to date (and properly so) have focused on physical RAM.

However, it appears that things have gotten worse: two modules worked, then only one module, and now "doesn't launch with any ram".

The common factor being that perhaps the motherboard/RAM slots are not receiving the necessary power. Could be the motherboard but I would consider the PSU as a more likely suspect.

If nothing is astray then try swapping in a known working PSU of sufficient wattage for the build. Do not mix and match PSU cables from any other PSU's.
 
Dec 9, 2021
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Now the computer is not launching/booting at all - correct? And motherboard #2 correct - ?

Also: "the ram is compatible". How was that determined?

= = = =

Again, as suggested by @Aeacus , refer to the Motherboard's User Guide/Manual to double check all connections and configurations.

Be very careful to install all RAM in a supported configuration.

I found the following User Guide/Manual link:

https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/M7A38v8.1.pdf

[Do verify that I found the applicable motherboard User Manual.]

Note per physically numbered Page 11:

"Overview of Components Overview of Components

Important Always insert memory modules in the DIMMA2 slot first."


= = = =

After reading back:

What make and model PSU is installed?

Wattage, age (1 year?) , condition (new, refurbished, used when installed)? History of heavy PSU use for gaming, video editing, or even bit-mining?

Point being that the efforts to date (and properly so) have focused on physical RAM.

However, it appears that things have gotten worse: two modules worked, then only one module, and now "doesn't launch with any ram".

The common factor being that perhaps the motherboard/RAM slots are not receiving the necessary power. Could be the motherboard but I would consider the PSU as a more likely suspect.

If nothing is astray then try swapping in a known working PSU of sufficient wattage for the build. Do not mix and match PSU cables from any other PSU's.
we’ve brought a new psu and mobo previously and it didn’t fix the problem
 

Ralston18

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@DennyMT

All I can suggest at this time is that you take the build completely apart and find ways to test and prove that each component individually works.

Motherboard
CPU
RAM
A single boot drive
iGPU (if supported) then a GPU
Case

Then rebuild with very careful attention to the applicable User Manuals and other component installation documents. (As has been suggested and posted by @Aeacus in Post #4.)

Otherwise, I am simply out of ideas and suggestions.

And will merely note at this time that, to date, most of your responses have generically been "did not work". Not what you did, not what components were involved, what specifications they had, the configurations used, no descriptions of beep codes, error LEDs, no acknowledgements regarding specifics.

For example: you bought a new PSU - well and good but did you use PSU cables from another PSU?

How did you configure the new motherboard?

How was the RAM determined to be compatible?

= = = =

You need to provide more details and information - details very much matter.

Perhaps some of the others who have offered previous ideas and suggestions may have additional thoughts and comments.

Hopefully so; I have no problem with that.
 
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Aeacus

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Perhaps some of the others who have offered previous ideas and suggestions may have additional thoughts and comments.
Speaking of it, what should've been included in the very 1st post, is full system specs, including PSU make and model (or part number). Since as it sits currently, what do we know, is MoBo make and model. And that's it. So, DennyMT, care to list what you have?
 
Dec 9, 2021
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the psu we got was the Corsair cv650 80 plus bronze
Cpu is a Ryzen 5 3600 and gpu is rtx 2060
And my bad for not saying any of this I honestly have no clue what I have to say lmao. I just wanna play terraria :,)
 

DRagor

Illustrious
To sum it up (OP correct me if I'm wrong anywhere):
1> system was working fine for a year, then started not booting randomly
2> workaround was limiting it to just one RAM stick
3> swapped motherboard, no change
4> swapped PSU, no change
5> swapped RAM, at first no change, then you made it work with nonstandard A1 B1, then it failed again and now none of the slots work

Few simple questions:
Did you reset CMOS on new board at any point during all those RAM tests?
About Step 5, it just failed when sticks were in A1 B1, or you were trying to move them around again and after that it no longer works?
So what is the current behavior of your system when you turn it on (as much detailed as possible)? Try it without any RAM at all and see if it behaves different. Then try it with RAM but no GPU and see if it behaves different. Describe any differences you saw.
 

Aeacus

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Try it without any RAM at all and see if it behaves different. Then try it with RAM but no GPU and see if it behaves different.
Well, it sure does behave differently, since without RAM, system won't POST and without GPU, there's nothing to see from monitor, since R5 3600 doesn't have iGPU. Now, if OP would have APU in there, with iGPU, then suggesting to power-on without GPU makes sense.

Corsair cv650 80 plus bronze
This is a poor PSU and at best, used in low-end systems without dedicated GPU, e.g office PCs. However, what you have, is medium-end system with 160W GPU and far better quality PSU is preferred (e.g Seasonic Focus+ or PRIME series). With this, it is possible that your poor PSU has been all along the cause for your RAM to die and not working properly. And just because you bought "new" CV650, doesn't make it any better since PSU quality still remained the same.
 
Aug 21, 2021
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Typical source of this problem are bent pins on CPU or CPU socket.
I'm dealing with a similar issue where upgrading from a R5 1600AF to a R5 3600 the system will not POST in dual channel with the 3600. It will in single channel either stick any DIMM. My point/question is the 3600 had some bent pins which I I bent back with a needle and made sure none were broken. They all look fine and CPU sits correct in Socket. Is it possible for a pin to be damaged even though it was only bent and appears to be fine? And how do you check CPU socket?
 

DRagor

Illustrious
I'm dealing with a similar issue where upgrading from a R5 1600AF to a R5 3600 the system will not POST in dual channel with the 3600. It will in single channel either stick any DIMM. My point/question is the 3600 had some bent pins which I I bent back with a needle and made sure none were broken. They all look fine and CPU sits correct in Socket. Is it possible for a pin to be damaged even though it was only bent and appears to be fine? And how do you check CPU socket?
Yes, it is possible for a CPU to not work correctly even if 'think' you got all the pins straight. Because they may just not be straight enough.
The socket part is for Intel CPUs (since the pins are in the socket there). You don't have to check AMD socket.
 
Reactions: CameronCant
Jan 22, 2022
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Okay so I got new ram and it did the same thing as before
If you are following the RAM designation from your mobo docs then make sure they are exactly the same model of dimm module. Especially if you’re wanting to use the dual channel feature. I’m sure someone more qualified has already answered this but I thought i would chime in!
 

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