Question Pc doesnt like AVRs

[Eliptical]

Good day, my new pc wont work if i plug it on a avr but works when i plug it directly on the wall. I tried to use a old avr from my old pc and it made the pc turn on and turn off. Then i bought the same avr but brand new and same thing happned then i bought a really beefy avr a 1000w and same thing still... anybody encountered this

Specs:
Ryzen 3 2200g
Emaxx A320 gaming +
Gskill ripjaws 2x8gb 3200mhz
Samsung 860 Evo 250gb
Wd Blue 1tb Hdd
4 normal black case fans
Seasonic Focus GM-650

 

[popatim]

Best guess without being there to investigate would be that your PSU needs a Pure Sinewave type AVR instead of simulated.

 

[Eliptical]

Best guess without being there to investigate would be that your PSU needs a Pure Sinewave type AVR instead of simulated.

Is it available or realy hard to find? I cant find one in any online shop here

 

[OrlyP]

AVRs don't have any notion of "simulated sine-wave". They only step up or step down the mains voltage so your PC receives a relatively safe voltage range. For all intents and purposes, since our mains are either 50Hz or 60Hz sine-wave (depending on which part of the world you live), the AVR's output will also be sine-wave.

The output waveform type is only significant when we're talking about UPSs. More expensive as well as those designed for datacenters outputs pure sine-wave. Entry-level consumer UPSs are typically of the simulated sine-wave type to attain a lower manufacturing cost.

I think we need to get more details about this AVR and what your mains voltage is (ie. 120V, 230V), etc.

 

[Eliptical]

AVRs don't have any notion of "simulated sine-wave". They only step up or step down the mains voltage so your PC receives a relatively safe voltage range. For all intents and purposes, since our mains are either 50Hz or 60Hz sine-wave (depending on which part of the world you live), the AVR's output will also be sine-wave.

The output waveform type is only significant when we're talking about UPSs. More expensive as well as those designed for datacenters outputs pure sine-wave. Entry-level consumer UPSs are typically of the simulated sine-wave type to attain a lower manufacturing cost.

I think we need to get more details about this AVR and what your mains voltage is (ie. 120V, 230V), etc.

I tried 3 and 2 are identical, the identical ones are really dirt cheap like 5 usd or something and they both support 110v and 220v upto 240v ithink and the new one is 100v to 330v also my socket voltage is 220v so i cant see any problem but every avr really doest wanna work on the pc

 

[OrlyP]

Do you have a link to the specs of those AVRs?

I hope you don't mind me stating the obvious but did you plug the PC in the 220V output of the AVR? Some AVRs have 110V and 220V outputs.

 

[Eliptical]

Do you have a link to the specs of those AVRs?

I hope you don't mind me stating the obvious but did you plug the PC in the 220V output of the AVR? Some AVRs have 110V and 220V outputs.

I dont have a link but i got its specs outside the box. It says input is AC160~250v and output is AC220/110v + 10% and it says ut has ic controlled and with surge supressor. The brand is Goldsource and it is a SVR-1000W

 

[mdd1963]

Regardless of claimed output, it is likely not quite clean enough to satisfy the PSU...

 

[Eliptical]

Regardless of claimed output, it is likely not quite clean enough to satisfy the PSU...

Should i just stick to plugging it in the wall rather than spending money on avr?

 

[OrlyP]

Your problem is a weird one. Do you have a voltmeter to measure the output from the AVR?

As I've suspected, the AVR's output has both 110V and 220V. Are you sure you've plugged in your PC in the 220V output?

I haven't used this Goldsource brand but AVRs are typically simple, plug & play devices that doesn't require much tweaking to use. I'd give it the benefit of the doubt that it's working normally and the problem lies elsewhere, since you've already tried three different AVRs.

 

[Eliptical]

Your problem is a weird one. Do you have a voltmeter to measure the output from the AVR?

As I've suspected, the AVR's output has both 110V and 220V. Are you sure you've plugged in your PC in the 220V output?

I haven't used this Goldsource brand but AVRs are typically simple, plug & play devices that doesn't require much tweaking to use. I'd give it the benefit of the doubt that it's working normally and the problem lies elsewhere, since you've already tried three different AVRs.

Yes im sure i plugged it at 220v and its realky weird that the pc doesnt want a avr but works fine directy really really weird

 

[carocuore]

Yes im sure i plugged it at 220v and its realky weird that the pc doesnt want a avr but works fine directy really really weird

Not really, the AVR's output could be too 'dirty' and over the PSU's range of tolerance, that trips a protection that cuts the circuit to prevent the rest of the PSU from being damaged due to ripple, an asymmetric or ground fault. Inrush current could be too high for the AVR to handle and it causes the power supply to fail.

specs outside the box. It says input is AC160~250v and output is AC220/110v + 10%

just that? no wattage spec? or VA at least.

And if you plug anything else to the AVR does it work? This is a simple trick: try with an incandescent bulb if you have one, if it starts flickering then something's wrong. The multimeter will also confirm any fluctuations.

 

[Eliptical]

Not really, the AVR's output could be too 'dirty' and over the PSU's range of tolerance, that trips a protection that cuts the circuit to prevent the rest of the PSU from being damaged due to ripple, an asymmetric or ground fault. Inrush current could be too high for the AVR to handle and it causes the power supply to fail.


just that? no wattage spec? or VA at least.

And if you plug anything else to the AVR does it work? This is a simple trick: try with an incandescent bulb if you have one, if it starts flickering then something's wrong. The multimeter will also confirm any fluctuations.

I tired plugging the monitor and its fine just the pc doesnt want to. Also it just says "cap: 1000/330VA" and that is all it says and it also has a fuse saying "10A" wattage is 1000w

 

[OrlyP]

Is your AVR the servo/auto-transformer type or relay-operated?

If it's the relay type, I'm thinking that maybe the PSU may not have enough bulk capacitance to keep the computer powered up when the relays switch over. You may have a low-quality PSU or it is overloaded.

Switching power supplies should survive up to several milliseconds of power loss, which is required when switching over to battery power (in the case of a UPS), or switching to a different transformer winding (in case of a line-interactive UPS and AVR).

 

[Eliptical]

Is your AVR the servo/auto-transformer type or relay-operated?

If it's the relay type, I'm thinking that maybe the PSU may not have enough bulk capacitance to keep the computer powered up when the relays switch over. You may have a low-quality PSU or it is overloaded.

Switching power supplies should survive up to several milliseconds of power loss, which is required when switching over to battery power (in the case of a UPS), or switching to a different transformer winding (in case of a line-interactive UPS or AVR).

My psu is a Seasonic Focus Gold GM-650 i dont thinks its cheaply made also i dont have that much knowledge on avrs so i really dont know the differences

 

[Eliptical]

Also if the psu is broken i shouldn't just function completely its just when i plug to any avr doesn't wanna work and just flickers on and off but if directly into the socket works fine

 

[OrlyP]

Well, obviously something is out-of-spec. And don't count out the fact that the PSU is blameless. If it's electronic, it can break.... some quite obvious but others only show their faults under specific circumstances.

You will have to be more systematic in your troubleshooting. I'd start with the basics... a multimeter/voltmeter to measure the wall-outlet voltage and the output(s) from the AVR.

 

[Eliptical]

Well, obviously something is out-of-spec. And don't count out the fact that the PSU is blameless. If it's electronic, it can break.... some quite obvious but others only show their faults under specific circumstances.

You will have to be more systematic in your troubleshooting. I'd start with the basics... a multimeter/voltmeter to measure the wall-outlet voltage and the output(s) from the AVR.

I got nothing to measure electronic stuff