Question PC doesn't show image because of damage to CPU socket ?

[Ven0m_]

Hello there
I am very disappointed because the issue is getting worst.
One year ago i tried to clean the whole pc from the dust and replacing thermal paste
It was not the first time I did that to a pc.
After putting everything back I noticed that the pc did turn on and the mobo had vram or CPU red light on.
I tried CMOS clear reseat GPU rams etc
Nothing

I removed cpu and noticed that on cpu socket some holes were damaged like in the photo because the CPU stuck on the CPU cooler cuz of the thermal paste I suppose.

While installing everything back after some time to get the pc turn back on I had to slightly rescrew some of the CPU cooler screws a little and then noticed that the ram that was recognised was 8gb and 2133mhz instead of 3200mhz and 16 GB ram.
Now the screws of stock fan of my CPU which is a Ryzen 5 2600 AMD are not screwing to the bottom like the other 2
It's the back plate issue because I turn it upside down and the same screws could fit perfectly.
Now I can here windows beep but says no signal ofc.
But I can hear the windows beep

My mobo is a 4 year old Tomahawk b450 max

See the photos of the CPU socket

https://ibb.co/1QY936y

1000006464 hosted at ImgBB

Image 1000006464 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

 

[Ven0m_]

No CPU pins bended I multiple times check
Thing is I go and buy and AM4 socket mobo, am I sure that the mobo is faulty or the CPU cooler?

If I buy a new mobo how do I know that the CPU cooler is compatible with new mobo?

 

[Anomaly_76]

No CPU pins bended I multiple times check
Thing is I go and buy and AM4 socket mobo, am I sure that the mobo is faulty or the CPU cooler?

If I buy a new mobo how do I know that the CPU cooler is compatible with new mobo?

Other than you might have possibly stripped the backing plate threads or the screws, the cooler would have nothing to do with this other than the thermal paste suction allowing it to pull the CPU with it. And such an unexpected circumstance is known to damage the CPU socket.

In this case, with a damaged socket and CPU backing plate / screws, it might be best to swap the board, however. Pro tip for avoiding damaging the backplate in the future, be sure the screws are aligned with the threads by slowly turning them backwards while pressing them lightly against the threads until you feel a slight bump. That will be the start of the thread, which will prevent crossthreading or stripping.

As long as there is no visible damage to the CPU pins, likely the CPU is okay. The only fault with a CPU cooler comes down to whether the fan operates. Otherwise, they don't really fail, but dried-out thermal paste and improper mounting can prevent them from doing their job.

Generally, apart from some designs needing specific brackets or backing plate due to differences that do not allow it to use the stock backplate, the screw spacing for mounting to the motherboard remains the same, ergo, most, if not all AM4 coolers mount in the same way.

The only issue you may run into is if the cooler core is offset to the IHS, it may only be able to mount one way, so as to clear DIMMs or VRM heatsinks.

For instance, I just finished up a media NAS / web machine using a B550 Aorus Master with a 3600X. The IS-55 cooler I used had such an offset and would only install properly one way, with the larger overhang covering the VRM heatsinks, as it would not clear the DIMMs.

However, in selecting a suitable replacement motherboard, it would be helpful to know which cooler and DIMMs you have, as Ryzens are fussy about DIMMs, and it is common for boards to have a compatibility list to state which ones are known to be stable. This also helps in determining whether the cooler should clear any VRM heat sinks and / or the DIMMs.

 

[CelicaGT]

You'll be able to find the stock back plate for sale online (Amazon has them). AFAIK they are common to all AM4 boards when using the stock cooler. Additional, it's good practice to lightly twist the heat sink assembly before pulling it off, to break the adhesion between the heat spreader and cooler from the thermal compound. This will stop the CPU from being yanked out of the socket, damaging pins etc.

 

[Ven0m_]

Other than you might have possibly stripped the backing plate threads or the screws, the cooler would have nothing to do with this other than the thermal paste suction allowing it to pull the CPU with it. And such an unexpected circumstance is known to damage the CPU socket.

In this case, with a damaged socket and CPU backing plate / screws, it might be best to swap the board, however. Pro tip for avoiding damaging the backplate in the future, be sure the screws are aligned with the threads by slowly turning them backwards while pressing them lightly against the threads until you feel a slight bump. That will be the start of the thread, which will prevent crossthreading or stripping.

As long as there is no visible damage to the CPU pins, likely the CPU is okay. The only fault with a CPU cooler comes down to whether the fan operates. Otherwise, they don't really fail, but dried-out thermal paste and improper mounting can prevent them from doing their job.

Generally, apart from some designs needing specific brackets or backing plate due to differences that do not allow it to use the stock backplate, the screw spacing for mounting to the motherboard remains the same, ergo, most, if not all AM4 coolers mount in the same way.

The only issue you may run into is if the cooler core is offset to the IHS, it may only be able to mount one way, so as to clear DIMMs or VRM heatsinks.

For instance, I just finished up a media NAS / web machine using a B550 Aorus Master with a 3600X. The IS-55 cooler I used had such an offset and would only install properly one way, with the larger overhang covering the VRM heatsinks, as it would not clear the DIMMs.

However, in selecting a suitable replacement motherboard, it would be helpful to know which cooler and DIMMs you have, as Ryzens are fussy about DIMMs, and it is common for boards to have a compatibility list to state which ones are known to be stable. This also helps in determining whether the cooler should clear any VRM heat sinks and / or the DIMMs.

This one is the CPU cooler that came in box
But without that golden ring don't know what that is

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-5-2600/2.html

I suppose that will need again to spend money for a motherboard already brought yesterday a new PSU because I broke it , nice of me

 

[Ven0m_]

You'll be able to find the stock back plate for sale online (Amazon has them). AFAIK they are common to all AM4 boards when using the stock cooler. Additional, it's good practice to lightly twist the heat sink assembly before pulling it off, to break the adhesion between the heat spreader and cooler from the thermal compound. This will stop the CPU from being yanked out of the socket, damaging pins etc.

Why would I buy a new back plate?
It's clearly that the CPU socket is damaged.. I suppose..

 

[Anomaly_76]

Why would I buy a new back plate?
It's clearly that the CPU socket is damaged.. I suppose..

If you had trouble tightening the cooler mounting screws, it's likely the backing plate threads or the mounting screws themselves are damaged. However, a replacement motherboard should come with a backing plate anyway.

 

[CelicaGT]

Why would I buy a new back plate?
It's clearly that the CPU socket is damaged.. I suppose..

Apologies, I didn't look too closely at the image. That thing is toast. The image is blurry but almost looks melted? Take a close, CLOSE look at your CPU before reusing it.

 

[Ven0m_]

If you had trouble tightening the cooler mounting screws, it's likely the backing plate threads or the mounting screws themselves are damaged. However, a replacement motherboard should come with a backing plate anyway.

I tried to add some small thing on the hole on the other side of the back panel and the mobo, to fit the screws knowing that the mobo is already damaged and the screws could fit perfectly but nothing helped out to get video display on monitor.
So I assuming that the mobo is damaged

 

[Ven0m_]

Apologies, I didn't look too closely at the image. That thing is toast. The image is blurry but almost looks melted? Take a close, CLOSE look at your CPU before reusing it.

Everything looks good no bended pins no burnt pins

Also now I tried to just place the cooler on the top of CPU without screwing the screws and I heard the window sound so again I think it's mobo issue.
Is there any fix for that? Do you think that I can find someone who would replace the socket? Not worthy?

 

[Anomaly_76]

Looking at the image, that socket looks melted from excessive thermals. CGT beat me to it, but that CPU may be fried from excessive thermals. At this point, the whole platform is questionable. You can replace that board with a used one for less than it would cost to repair.

Also, a 2600 does not have integrated graphics, and therefore has little to do with display other than feeding a dedicated GPU data. So if you have your display cable connected to the motherboard's HDMI port, you won't get video that way. You should have it connected to a video card output.

One other thing, incompatible memory DIMMs are known to cause no video POSTs due to memory training issues. I've seen it before with several machines. Hence my mention of consulting the board manufacturer's QVL.

But take it all around, I think at bare minimum you need another board that supports the 2600 and the memory you have, presuming they are still serviceable. But you might look around. You can find some decent AM4 CPU / APUs bundled with motherboards.

 

[CelicaGT]

Looking at the image, that socket looks melted from excessive thermals. CGT beat me to it, but that CPU may be fried from excessive thermals. At this point, the whole platform is questionable. You can replace that board with a used one for less than it would cost to repair.

Also, a 2600 does not have integrated graphics, and therefore has little to do with display other than feeding a dedicated GPU data. So if you have your display cable connected to the motherboard's HDMI port, you won't get video that way. You should have it connected to a video card output.

One other thing, incompatible memory DIMMs are known to cause no video POSTs due to memory training issues. I've seen it before with several machines. Hence my mention of consulting the board manufacturer's QVL.

But take it all around, I think at bare minimum you need another board that supports the 2600 and the memory you have, presuming they are still serviceable. But you might look around. You can find some decent AM4 CPU / APUs bundled with motherboards.

It's possible things got hot enough to melt the socket plastic but not harm the CPU itself I think. That said I have NO idea what type of plastic the sockets are made from, and therefor what thermal properties it might have. There was a bunch of information regarding this and more given during the AM5 investigation by Gamers Nexus and others that could be of use, though I'm not going to dig through it at the moment. The real problem is that although the CPU may function, PCIe lanes could be cut off, partial memory access, even power rails.

To the OP:

I agree with Anomaly, consider replacing the CPU as well. A nice Zen 3 upgrade might be just the ticket to wake your build up when you repair it. Lot's of low cost options (5600, 5700 etc) which would be a sizeable performance uplift over your current CPU.

 

[Ven0m_]

Because of the purchase of PSU I don't have enough money to get a CPU right now
I gonna try to get a used motherboard for now
Could you suggest one for my CPU Ryzen 5 2600 should I get the same?

 

[Ven0m_]

I just wanted to test if something would change when I remove everything from pc case to zero again like when new.
And I had everything out and set it up in a bench and i got screen and everything
Wtf is going on really?
In case doesn't work out of case it's working

 

[Ven0m_]

Which mobo and CPU do you get suggest for about 300€?
I only play call of duty warzone and I am a web designer and working with Photoshop and premiere
I would go for a Ryzen again .

 

[CelicaGT]

Some decent B550 boards available. Myself I use an Asus B550F Gaming (non WiFi). It's ....fine. You could pair something like that with a newer Ryzen 5 and see a nick uptick in performance. I'd post some links but international pricing, and I'm about to go out the door.
FWIW my typical strategy is to check Newegg for pricing and read user reviews, then source locally as possible (Usually Amazon for me, I'm in a rural area and the local PC shop is meh).

 

[Ven0m_]

Some decent B550 boards available. Myself I use an Asus B550F Gaming (non WiFi). It's ....fine. You could pair something like that with a newer Ryzen 5 and see a nick uptick in performance. I'd post some links but international pricing, and I'm about to go out the door.
FWIW my typical strategy is to check Newegg for pricing and read user reviews, then source locally as possible (Usually Amazon for me, I'm in a rural area and the local PC shop is meh).

Ryzen 5500 or 5600?
Also do you suggest to go with MSI board again?

 

[CelicaGT]

Ryzen 5500 or 5600?
Also do you suggest to go with MSI board again?

*Trying to leave*

Check local pricing against the clock speed differences, also look at reviews here or elsewhere. They often compare similar CPU's in game benches that may actually apply to what you do with your system. Check Newegg etc for sales too. There's often a "Spring Sale" going on somewhere this time of year. Quality wise most mainstream MoBo's are fine, afaik MSI is decent stuff. All mine is Asus in this build though I have used MSI in the past, I have nothing bad to say but that build was like 12 years ago...

 

[Ven0m_]

Do you guys trust these benchmarks?
https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-Ryzen-5-5600-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-2600/m1822932vs3955
Or should I go to Ryzen 7 5700x?

 

[Anomaly_76]

Because of the purchase of PSU I don't have enough money to get a CPU right now
I gonna try to get a used motherboard for now
Could you suggest one for my CPU Ryzen 5 2600 should I get the same?

The trouble with this situation is that while some boards that support the 2600 may offer BIOS updates to support more modern chips, they may not necessarily support a viable upgrade.

Example... I know a 5600X or 5900X will run on an ASRock B450M-HDV I have, but do I think the VRMs would survive it? Probably not.

Do you guys trust these benchmarks?
https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-Ryzen-5-5600-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-2600/m1822932vs3955
Or should I go to Ryzen 7 5700x?

I think it depends on who you ask, but I'm on the fence honestly. I've heard from various people that they're ridiculously inaccurate.

The 5700X is a decent platform. As is the 5600. If you're just looking to game, any good 4, 6 or 8 core is fine, depending on the complexity of the games you play.

Bear in mind though, whatever you do about a replacement board, you really have to do your homework and verify it supports the RAM you have, because as I stated earlier, RAM stability is kind of a big thing with Ryzen, as they are very fussy and don't play nice with some RAM.

My 5900X did a blank-screen POST every 8-12 cold boots after about a month. Turned out to be a memory training issue -- DIMMs were not on the board's QVL. Turned out the same issue had made my 1700 run like it was smoking crack for about a year.

Which mobo and CPU do you get suggest for about 300€?
I only play call of duty warzone and I am a web designer and working with Photoshop and premiere
I would go for a Ryzen again .

If you're that confident the 2600 is okay, and you don't mind posting your DIMM manufacturer / part #s, video card, etc... and country... I don't mind helping you figure out the best course of action if you want to give the 2600 one last stay of execution.

 

[Ven0m_]

The trouble with this situation is that while some boards that support the 2600 may offer BIOS updates to support more modern chips, they may not necessarily support a viable upgrade.

Example... I know a 5600X or 5900X will run on an ASRock B450M-HDV I have, but do I think the VRMs would survive it? Probably not.



I think it depends on who you ask, but I'm on the fence honestly. I've heard from various people that they're ridiculously inaccurate.

The 5700X is a decent platform. As is the 5600. If you're just looking to game, any good 4, 6 or 8 core is fine, depending on the complexity of the games you play.

Bear in mind though, whatever you do about a replacement board, you really have to do your homework and verify it supports the RAM you have, because as I stated earlier, RAM stability is kind of a big thing with Ryzen, as they are very fussy and don't play nice with some RAM.

My 5900X did a blank-screen POST every 8-12 cold boots after about a month. Turned out to be a memory training issue -- DIMMs were not on the board's QVL. Turned out the same issue had made my 1700 run like it was smoking crack for about a year.



If you're that confident the 2600 is okay, and you don't mind posting your DIMM manufacturer / part #s, video card, etc... and country... I don't mind helping you figure out the best course of action if you want to give the 2600 one last stay of execution.

what exactly is VRMs sir

 

[Anomaly_76]

what exactly is VRMs sir

Voltage Regulator Modules. Lower-end-to -mid-range boards use cheaper VRMs that may not be able to realistically handle higher-power CPUS in the 95W-105W range, or even 65W units that run hotter than most (5600X, for example). Most with better ones have heat sinks for the VRMs as well.

Quite frankly, few games use more than one core, so if you're looking to game, even a 4-core should do the job.

A year or so ago, I built a rather decent low-buck gaming machine with a 2-core / 4-thread i3-2100, 16GB DDR3-1333, GTX750ti. Nearly 50 FPS at 1440p with an SSD. Perfectly fine for most non-AAA titles.

A sister machine had a 4-core / 8-thread i7-2600, GTX1050 with the same RAM. Crucial MX500 SSDs for both, of course.

But also keep in mind that better GPUs require more processor power to work effciently. So for example, if you currently run a GTX1000 / GTX1600 series, and planned an RTX3000-series upgrade later, you might want a faster 6 or 8 core. The 3700X / 3800X are excellent if you can find one. The 3900X / 5900X are overkill for casual gaming, but might be justifiable if you plan to stream / record gameplay with the same machine.

 

[Ven0m_]

Hello again
I need a mobo urgently
Do you guys suggest this one?

Asus PRIME B450-PLUS, AMD, Socket AM4, ATX, 4xDDR4, 6xSATA3, M.2, RAID, USB3.1, HDMI, DVI-D (90MB0YN0-M0EAY0)

Will it be ok with my 2600 Ryzen 5?

 

[Anomaly_76]

Hello again
I need a mobo urgently
Do you guys suggest this one?

Asus PRIME B450-PLUS, AMD, Socket AM4, ATX, 4xDDR4, 6xSATA3, M.2, RAID, USB3.1, HDMI, DVI-D (90MB0YN0-M0EAY0)

Will it be ok with my 2600 Ryzen 5?

Yes, according to Asus' CPU support list for this board.

For future reference, most manufacturers sites have information on supported CPUs (BIOs version included), as well as known compatible memory and storage devices by specific board model. Per my previous statement regarding RAM stability issues, you may want to check the memory list for your specific RAM model #. This does vary by board, and by processor per board.

Keep in mind, however, being a budget board, the Prime series are not recommended for major upgrades. A 95W-105W TDP processor could easily overtax its VRMs. Doesn't mean it's a terrible board, but you'll want to stick to 65W TDP processors in the future if you want the board to last.

And at that, you still might have to be careful. A 5600X is a 65W chip, but gets pretty toasty under load with a stock AMD cooler. So if you plan an upgrade later, I might recommend a larger cooler in the process if you can swing it. You can always get one later, but I seem to remember you mentioned some issues with the screws on your stock one.

Also, be sure to use a good thermal paste, if you didn't already know. Most any will do, but some are better than others. Some coolers come with paste, some even preapplied.

 

[Ven0m_]

Yes, according to Asus' CPU support list for this board.

For future reference, most manufacturers sites have information on supported CPUs (BIOs version included), as well as known compatible memory and storage devices by specific board model. Per my previous statement regarding RAM stability issues, you may want to check the memory list for your specific RAM model #. This does vary by board, and by processor per board.

Keep in mind, however, being a budget board, the Prime series are not recommended for major upgrades. A 95W-105W TDP processor could easily overtax its VRMs. Doesn't mean it's a terrible board, but you'll want to stick to 65W TDP processors in the future if you want the board to last.

And at that, you still might have to be careful. A 5600X is a 65W chip, but gets pretty toasty under load with a stock AMD cooler. So if you plan an upgrade later, I might recommend a larger cooler in the process if you can swing it. You can always get one later, but I seem to remember you mentioned some issues with the screws on your stock one.

Also, be sure to use a good thermal paste, if you didn't already know. Most any will do, but some are better than others. Some coolers come with paste, some even preapplied.

I am already having my CPU Ryzen 5 2600.


The stores that i look into to purchase mobo didnt have it available so from Monday i have to go and get one or wait a few days.
I found it for 70 euros, i would spend like 70 to 85 euros and 6-7 euros for a new thermal paste.

Already have in my possession a Artic cooling MX4 thermal paste but its like 3-4 years old and i missed the front secure clip so do i need a new one because its old?
please suggest me another mobo.

I found some other boards but i didnt find my ram sticks on the QVL list so i didnt purchase new board, right now i wouldnt buy CPU OR RAM.

i have these ram sticks Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4-3200MHz (CMK16GX4M2B3200C16).

EDIT: does the mobos come with the CPU SOCKET back plate ???