I don't know what to do to fix it. My pa will just freeze and then crash with no bsod then reboot for as far as I know, no reason for it's crashing. Please tell me what extra info y'all will need to help fix this issue.
Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-9700F CPU @ 3.00GHz 3.00 GHz
Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro WiFi Motherboard
2x Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (1x8GB) 2666MHz CL16 DDR4
MSI GeForce RTX 2060 Ventus XS OCV1 6GB
SilverStone Essential ET750-B Bronze 750W Power Supply
Samsung 860 EVO M.2 SATA SSD 500GB
Seagate Barracuda 2TB ST2000DM008 3.5in Hard Drive
Microsoft Windows 10 Home
Each part is about 3 to 4 years old
So far i have tried updating my bios to the latest version and uninstalling and reinstalling my graphics drivers
I'd recommend you start by replacing that very low quality power supply. The Silverstone essential ET series bronze units are pretty terrible. Probably lucky it's made it three or four years. And even if it's not what is causing your problem, it is very possibly what caused that part to start having problems to begin with, but the chances are really good that it IS what is causing your shut downs.
It's a tier E unit on the Cultists tier list, and while I can't agree with all of the placement on that list, I do know they don't put a unit on the replace immediately tier unless there is a very good reason for it, and in this case, I completely agree with it.
You can start by unplugging that hard drive to see if perhaps that is the problem. How old is that Seagate drive?
But honestly, I'd really recommend starting with replacement of the power supply. It is the MOST probable cause and even if it isn't the problem, replacing it with a quality unit should be a priority anyhow.
Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...
PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...
Hard drive would be the same age as everything else about 3 years old.
What psu would you recommend.
Also this might be pertinent information but usually after it's crashed it won't crash for the rest of the day untill I've turned it off and on again.
I mean, if you want to spend as little as possible on the PSU, this Rosewill Capstone-M unit that is on sale right now, about 75 bucks cheaper than normal, has been a well reviewed model for a long time but it IS an older platform. That's not a problem really though as it's perfectly fine for that system and has plenty of power for your RTX 2060 but it doesn't leave much room for a higher performance graphics card if you decide to move up to something else in the next couple of years.
Something else to note, is your memory two separately purchased Corsair modules that didn't come both together in one kit? Regardless that they are or are not the exact same model, using unmatched memory together (Unmatched meaning they did not come together from the factory) can definitely be the cause of problems like this.
I would run Memtest86 as outlined below, after replacing the power supply, and see what you get.
Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.
Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.
You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.
2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.
3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.
No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.
Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.
If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.
If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.
If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.
If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.
Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.
Remove any overclocking software. (bug: very common for MSI afterburner to be installed multiple times)
go into windows control panel device manager and disable all high definition sound devices that do not have speakers connected.
if your motherboard has a realtek sound built in, go to the motherboard vendors website and update the motherboard sound driver.
(known bug in certain versions of realtek sound driver that will respond to GPU sound driver request and overflow the GPU stack
and hang the GPU.
if you can not figure out the problem, then you need to google How to force a windows memory dump using the keyboard.
make the registry change, change the memory dump type to kernel. Let the system run and attempt to force the memory dump on the hung system. if you can get a memory dump I can take a quick look and see why the system hung.
you can even force the dump on a working system and sometimes I can see the problem before the system crashes by looking at the memory dump in the windows debugger.
I can think of a bunch more potential causes but it is just faster to look at a kernel memory dump to see what is wrong.
edit: power problem/ overheating problem can trigger the motherboard protection circuits to reset your CPU.
basically, you see a graphics pause, then a black screen or the system restarting depending on what power supply you have.
better supplies will put a longer delay before the reboot.
if the system has been working ok for a long time. I look for overheating problems and blow the dust out of all of the fans. CPU, GPU and PSU.
(assuming you have not installed overclocking drivers) the bug with the msi overclocking drivers is they changed the install directory over the years and the new driver does not uninstall the old driver. I have seen systems that had 4 copies running. each copy makes a minor overclock change that would not be detected. IE 1 to 2 % increase in some clock rate but each copy takes a wack at the frequency and it ends up not conforming to the specs of the electronics and you get hangs.
Okay so been a few days ordered a new PSU but in the time it took for that to get shipped the crashing has stopped I have done nothing to make it stop it just suddenly didn't happen anymore. Will still keep this open incase it begins again
Have any Windows updates been installed between the time it was crashing and the time it wasn't, that you know of? Because it wouldn't be the first time we've seen crashing problems resolved by a Windows update. Often it simply updates in the background and you don't even know it so you might have to actually open Windows update and look at the list of installed updates (Update history) to check dates and see if something was changed.