Question PC goes into sleep mode and wont turn off or on whenever I do anything graphically intensive

marvAQL

Prominent
May 11, 2019
3
1
515
Whenever I do anything intensive on the computer, specifically the FurMark GPU benchmark the computer will automatically go into sleep mode and it is impossible for it to turn on or off without unplugging the power cord.

The computer was working fine before i started messing around with Dolphin emulator. I used a combination of some graphically intensive settings and then the computer went into sleep mode refusing to turn on or off unless i unplugged the power cable.

Specifically, the monitor will go black, the lights inside the PC will all instantly turn off and all fans will stop moving. In the case of FurMark, the computer will instantly go into sleep as soon as the stress test loads up. The power button will be blinking as if its in sleep mode. As I have stated, the PC will not be able to turn back on or turn off using the power button without unplugging the PC. Turning the PC back on after unplugging the cord is fine and it will start up again just fine until I used fur mark or any graphically intensive program. The power button will blink for a few seconds after being unplugged then shut off completely. Sometimes the PC will not even be doing anything graphically intensive (such as just installing CPU - Z) and it will do the same sleep mode thing. edit: when i use any fur mark stress test/ benchmark the computer will instantly enter sleep mode)

My PC specs are
  • CPU: AMD FX - 6300 six core processor, 3500 MHz, 3 cores, 6 logical processors
  • GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti
  • Motherboard: MSI 970A-G43 PLUS
  • RAM: Micron technology (part number: 16JTF51264AZ - 1G4M14GB, serial number: FB78DCEA) DDR3, 1.50v, 666.6 MHz, CAS 9.0 clocks, tRAS 24 clocks, tRC 33 clocks, single channel
  • CPU cooler: Cooler master CPU cooler (no idea the model)
  • Power Supply: Thermaltake TR2 500W ATX 12v 2.3
  • Seagate 500GB laptop thin SSHD
  • Windows 7 64 bit ultimate
  • I'm not sure what the computer case is called with it's a medium tower
Steps I have taken already:
  1. Replaced ram with fresh ram stick, checked with memtest 86 for issues and its in perfect condition
  2. Replaced power cable with a brand new power cable
  3. Reinstalled windows (kept previous installation on windows.old)
  4. Reset bios settings to default
  5. Did several other tests benchmark tests using MSI kombuster like the plasma particle test and CPU burner, computer did not shut down any time I used these.
  6. The temperature of the computer does not have the chance to go up and the standby temperatures are safe so we can safely rule out over heating
I'm putting this in graphics cards as I feel like most of the problems are connected to the GPU but the problem could be anything. Sorry in advance if i posted in the wrong forum or i'm missing information.
 
Last edited:
Thermaltake TR2 500W ATX 12v 2.3

Hi, just some heads-up. Please do not use this PSU model to power up your rig. The TR2 series from thermaltake are of very poor/inferior quality. They have had a bad reputation in the past as well. These TR2 models are mostly listed under the lowest category on the PSU hierarchy list.

I'm not saying your PSU might only be the culprit here, but I won't advice you to use this TR2 Model. There is some risk factor. Grab yourself some high quality power supply unit. Can you test your PC by using some other power supply, if possible ?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi, just some heads-up. Please do not use this PSU model to power up your rig. The TR2 series from thermaltake are of very poor/inferior quality. They have had a bad reputation in the past as well. These TR2 models are mostly listed under the lowest category on the PSU hierarchy list.

I'm not saying your PSU might only be the culprit here, but I won't advice you to use this TR2 Model. There is some risk factor. Grab yourself some high quality power supply unit. Can you test your PC by using some other power supply, if possible ?

Sadly I do not own another compatible PSU, are there any tests i can do to check if the PSU is the problem other than replacing it?
 
are there any tests i can do to check if the PSU is the problem other than replacing it?

You can check the PSU by using some tools, but you must be highly competent/experienced doing all this.

BTW, software cannot be trusted to test PSU voltages. Only a DMM can, digital multimeters. Also, if you can find a "Kil-A-Watt"/power meter, etc. (from some hardware store) plug your system into that and see how much it's pulling under full load. Balance that with the age of the PSU and you can decide if you need a new one or not.

Some recommend using oscilloscope or any dedicated power supply analyzer, but these might be expensive, imo. Also check this instrument, Dr. Power. They don't actually provide a full range of loads. and they don't test for ripple either. But they can definitely tell if a PSU is dead, and/or missing a voltage, but they cannot conclusively tell you a supply is good. This is just for reference. I've not used any of these though.

We also have one digital LCD tester as shown below.


A4RE_131794664813571101kpHcNEyg7E.jpg



e1Drtf0.png



multimeter.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You can check the PSU by using some tools, but you must be highly competent/experienced doing all this.

BTW, software cannot be trusted to test PSU voltages. Only a DMM can, digital multimeters. Also, if you can find a "Kil-A-Watt"/power meter, etc. (from some hardware store) plug your system into that and see how much it's pulling under full load. Balance that with the age of the PSU and you can decide if you need a new one or not.

Some recommend using oscilloscope or any dedicated power supply analyzer, but these might be expensive, imo. Also check this instrument, Dr. Power. They don't actually provide a full range of loads. and they don't test for ripple either. But they can definitely tell if a PSU is dead, and/or missing a voltage, but they cannot conclusively tell you a supply is good. This is just for reference. I've not used any of these though.

We also have one digital LCD tester as shown below.


A4RE_131794664813571101kpHcNEyg7E.jpg



e1Drtf0.png



multimeter.jpg
Thank you for the reply. I have a hunch the problem lies in the PSU, ill grab a multi meter off of my friend to check just in case. If the problem is the PSU could you recommend me one that isn't trash?
 
If the problem is the PSU could you recommend me one that isn't trash?

What's your budget, and where do you live ? There are quite a few HIGH quality decent PSUs which I can recommend. Check the following links, and see whether you can grab one of these similar models.

SEASONIC FOCUS Plus:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bk...fied-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-550fx

Corsair RMX:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bq...-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020177-na

BE QUIET straight power 11:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3V...ertified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn281

EVGA supernova G3:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sM...ed-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550