PC Just exploded! Need help!

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ajcraven12345

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Jan 15, 2015
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Hi there, I just built a PC for the first time. I put in a Psu which I have used before. I just put in my new gtx 760 (first time I have used it) I've been playing grand theft auto 5 for about 10 minutes before my pc made a loud bang. I didn't see smoke however I could smell a faint burn. I looked inside and cannot see anything burned. I'm not going to open the PSU for safety reasons. My PC doesn't turn on anymore and I cannot hear any static noise when I plug in to the plug socket (it usually does). Does this mean that it is the Psu which blew and did it damage the pc? The main question is that was this a coincidence or does it mean I built my pc wrong and it's unstable? If anyone could get back to me that'll be highly appreciated. Thanks.[/b]
 
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InvalidError
If you heard a loud bang and there is no obvious sign of damage anywhere inside the case, then a blown capacitor or power device (MOSFETs can make a fair amount of noise when they short out for whatever reason and the the 200-400V input cap dumps its energy across the blown component lead or semiconductor die) in the PSU is the most likely cause.

With a little luck, the rest of your PC should still be fine - catastrophic primary-side failures rarely damage stuff on the output since no energy gets transferred to the secondary side of a saturated transformer.
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^^lol @jack...

loud bang like a fire cracker? is likely a cap blown. hope its in your psu and not on the motherboard.
pull the psu out and give it a good sniff. if you get a warm dusty rubbery smell it might be ok. if you get a sharp pungent smell its likely dead.
but all you can do is try another psu for a start. if its still not working work your way through your components preferably testing them in another build to see if there still working.
if you dont have another build then either ask a mate to bring his round or take it to a shop.
 
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Hi

It would be useful to know make model and power ratting of psu?
How many watts ?



What make & model of motherboard ?

Take PSU out of case & into another room
See if you can smell burnt plastic on psu or is smell on the motherboard

If psu 250 or 300 watts and low quality it could of died early

If you have a motherboard brass mounting pillar in wrong location ( where there is no mounting hole in motherboard) you could destroy the motherboard

Report back with details

Regards
Mike Barnes


 
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HEX is right on, pull the power supply 1st, and stop trying to power it on. See if the burnt plastic acid smell is coming from that. Hopefully that is the case, a power supply is cheaper and easier to replace then a motherboard. If the PS doesn't have the burn smell then remove and check the GPU for that burnt plastic acid smell. If it passes then it could very well be your motherboard.

List all your components for us. Do you have extra computer parts around you can use to aid the testing? Do you have any techie buddies that can help you? Is there a local computer shop in the area with a good reputation?
 
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If you heard a loud bang and there is no obvious sign of damage anywhere inside the case, then a blown capacitor or power device (MOSFETs can make a fair amount of noise when they short out for whatever reason and the the 200-400V input cap dumps its energy across the blown component lead or semiconductor die) in the PSU is the most likely cause.

With a little luck, the rest of your PC should still be fine - catastrophic primary-side failures rarely damage stuff on the output since no energy gets transferred to the secondary side of a saturated transformer.
 
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Solution
Guys, thanks for responding so fast, the make of the Psu is atx-500b. My specs are
AMD 6600k CPU
GTX 760
A78M E35
I tried to smell it. Very very faint smell. Too faint to make out maybe burnt rubbery. I also need to know if this happened because I did something wrong when building? Or will it happen again if I buy a new one ?
 
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Blanket statements like those are dangerous since there are plenty of 600W-ish PSUs over the $100 mark and plenty of decent motherboards under that same $100 mark. My PSU (EA650, ~$100 CAN) is worth ~$10 more than my motherboard (Asus H77m, ~$90).


atx-500b does not tell us anything useful since there are potentially dozens of PSUs that could match '500b', we need a full model number with brand to know with reasonable certainty what PSU you actually own.

As for anything you could have done, a properly designed PSU should have all the necessary built-in protections to cope with just about any possible mistake you can do within reason. The fact that it blew up indicates it was either defective or of exceptionally poor quality... unless you did something exceptionally dumb like plug one of the DC outputs into a 120V outlet.
 
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you still haven't told us the brand name of the PSU yet though. if you are having a hard time finding it then it sounds like your PSU is of low quality. I checked the NVIDIA website and they recommend a PSU of 500W minimum for the GTX 760 so it was just getting by on that 500W PSU and considering how intensive GTA V is it was pushing you GPU too much and that caused the PSU to blow
 
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Hi captain sorry for delay was having bonfire I'll show you image of the Psu. Also before it blew I was playing gta and there were ghostly lines over the screen. I lowered the graphics settings but still thee. Don't know what that could mean. Also I'm buying a 600 watt Psu. Would this be good enough? Finally, is my PC safe ?
because I don't want another to blow.
 
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Dangerous? Really I think your being a little over dramatic. I don't think it is that big of a deal its not like he's going to jump off the roof if he finds a MB cheaper than a PS. Just because you bought a entry level H77 motherboard and you are using a middle ranged PS doesn't mean everyone one else does. Most that go cheap on the MB will go cheap on the PS too and get a 450w-550w power supply of a 3rd tier brand, most gamers use Z-version chipset motherboards and better quality PS.

The motherboard is harder to replace then the power supply. The power supply is 4 screws and unplug the 24 pin harness from the MB remove the CPU power plug then unplug the drives and any fans or lights using the molex connectors, there done. The motherboard you have to remove the GPU and any other add-on cards (Audio..),. Remove the power connectors, remove in fans plugged in to it, remove the faceplate connectors (power, HDD LED...), remove any USB and sound headers, and remove the 12 or more screws holding it to the case. Then remove the CPU & RAM and store them safely. I've done it many many times since the late 80s (it was worse then with HDD controller, FDD controller & IO cards), and it's still true the motherboard is much harder to replace then the power supply, period.
 
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It would be helpful if you can list the brand and the model of the components, just saying a 600w power supply doesn't help there are horrible brands that sell 600w and great brands and everything in between. The problem may be worse then just the power supply or it may not be the power supply at all you need to determine what went bad and what is still good. Or take your computer to someone or place you trust and let them do it for you. Here is a popular site that rates power supplies.

http://www.johnnylucky.org/power-supplies/psu-recommendations.html
 
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"Entry level h77" is overly simplistic since the h77 does everything the z77 does except for the z77's fabricated ability to unlock the i5/i7's PCIe and core multipliers. Purely artificial market segmentation, partly because Intel can, partly because tons of people buy or get upsold into the "high-end" hype even though they will never actually use the extra features, if any, that they are paying for.


Titanium is better than Platinum, the biggest difference being that Titanium defines a minimum efficiency requirement of 80% at 10% load while Platinum leaves efficiency undefined below 20%.
 
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The power supply probably blew itself.
 
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H77 is the Entry level as is the H87 is for Haswell. The Z77 was suppose to be the official model to be able to over clock CPU, GPU and RAM. Though the H77 does have the ability it may not be as easily accomplished, and the manufacturers were forbidden by Intel to advertise it. The H77 models usually had less SATA 3 and USB 3.0 ports then the Z77 models. The Z77 model also has multi GPU support for those doing SLI or Crossfire the H77 does not. Most hard core gamers and enthusiast use the Z77 model. Most wanting to get in to the 1150 socket on the cheap used the H77 and the B75 chipset models there is nothing wrong with that.



You know the only Titanium rated power supplies I've worked with were for servers, I don't think I've seen any in the desktop market, at least none that I can remember. I don't think he is looking to buy a Titanium rated power supply that may be more then he wants to spend and more then he needs while the Bronze and Gold are more likely to be of interest to him. I'm waiting for Diamond, Ruby and Emerald rated power supplies next. Of course the PS rating system is all on an honor system and done by the manufacturers themselves, so take them with a grain of salt.


 
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Entry-level H-series boards typically have exactly the same IOs as entry-level Z-based boards since both chipsets have practically identical built-in IO capabilities and entry-level boards do little more than expose those. Any extras you see on Z-based boards come from add-on chips which could be added to any chipset. As for SLI/CF and OC support, those are built into the CPU and the Z-series chipsets are nothing more than an unlock dongle - an occasion to ding end-users who already paid a fair premium on an i5/i7 CPU for an extra $10 just because Intel can and enthusiasts are usually willing victims.


FSP announced a whole line of Titanium PSUs all the way down to 400W in late 2014 and Corsair launched their AX1500i a few months ago. They are out there, albeit still uncommon.
 
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