[SOLVED] PC Keeps Restarting

Jun 12, 2019
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Hey everybody, I have had a problem in the past where my PC restarted at seemingly random times. So I installed speedfan to monitor temps and see if that was the problem. But the PC restarted when temps were well within normal range. It's only restarted when I played games so I tried switching my GPU out, and it worked for about two weeks before the restarts came back. I've since then replaced the PSU twice, and even switched out the motherboard. The problem stopped for a few weeks at a time each time, but came back again. I'm starting to think it's my CPU, but before I drop money on another one, I want to be sure

intel i7 8700k
GTX 1080
Asus ROG Strix Z390-E Motherboard
Samsung 860 Evo 1TB
2 top fans
2 rear fans
1 front fan
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
What are the exact model numbers (Or at least the series and capacity) of each of those power supplies?

What does your memory configuration consist of? How many sticks? Memory kit number? Running at default or XMP? What slots are the memory modules installed in?

(Hint: They SHOULD be installed in the A2 and B2 slots, if there are two sticks of RAM installed. That is true for ALL consumer dual channel architecture motherboards using DDR3 or DDR4 memory. If there is only one stick, it should be installed in the A2 slot. A2 is the second slot from the CPU socket. B2 is the fourth slot over next to the edge of the motherboard.)

Do not be concerned if the slots are named differently. Some boards use DDR4_1 and DDR4_2 to designate those same slots.




Have you, at any point, pulled the CPU back out to check for bent pins on the motherboard? If no other solutions resolve the problem, that is the next thing you want to do.
 
Reactions: ItsZess
Jun 12, 2019
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Or a power strip/surge protector?
I do have a surge protector. I have 2 sticks of 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4. They are in the A1 and B1 slots. Both of my PSU's we're EVGA. The we're both also 650 W. The pins in the Motherboard are not bent. Do the slots of the RAM matter that much that it would restart my PC like that?
 
Jun 12, 2019
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I plugged my PC into the wall directly and am going to give it a test run here to see if it works. Either way, thank you guys for your help so far.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
I don't know that having the memory in those slots would specifically cause ANY particular problem, but I have surprisingly seen it cause a VARIETY of off the wall issues including not wanting to run at the advertised speed, not run in dual channel, not POST at all, fail Memtest86 testing, all sorts of things. A lot of boards just don't like to see it in those slots when the A2 and B2 are not already populated. Practically all of the motherboard manufacturers specifically instruct to use the A2 and B2 slots per their population rules if using only two sticks.

Including yours.



 
Reactions: ItsZess

AllanGH

Commendable
Mar 10, 2019
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Just a note, for issues of future stability once this is resolved:

Reserve the money for a good UPS. Actually buy it and install it, too.

In my area, my UPS registers about 10 or 12 "hits" per day--mainly because the computer is on about 18 hours out of a normal day. Those voltage surges and sags (most are sags which surge suppressors will do nothing about) would have some sort of affect on my system. The sags would definitely cause a re-start, and computer power supplies definitely hate those.

The pattern of your restarts suggests that you may have an issue with your mains supply.
 
Jun 12, 2019
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Switched the RAM to the correct slots and when it restarted there was a windows update that occurred. I played a few games after that with no problem so that may be the solution to my problem. I'm going to order a UPS, but does anybody have any suggestions to any particular one?
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
That could depend on your power supply model. Not all UPS systems are really compatible with all power supplies. Some require a pure sine wave unit while others can use a simulated or stepped sine wave type UPS.

What is the exact model of your power supply? You can find the model on the sticker on the side of the power supply that contains the required by law specifications of the unit. Model or part number will be listed. At the least, you should be able to easily see what SERIES the power supply is, but model would be a lot more helpful.
 
Reactions: ItsZess
Jun 12, 2019
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That could depend on your power supply model. Not all UPS systems are really compatible with all power supplies. Some require a pure sine wave unit while others can use a simulated or stepped sine wave type UPS.

What is the exact model of your power supply? You can find the model on the sticker on the side of the power supply that contains the required by law specifications of the unit. Model or part number will be listed. At the least, you should be able to easily see what SERIES the power supply is, but model would be a lot more helpful.
So the restart happened again even after the surge protector was removed and the RAM was slotted correctly. The power supply I am using is a EVGA 650W. The Part Number is 100-N1-0650.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
The N1 units are not very good. Certainly NOT good enough for use with gaming systems/cards and ABSOLUTELY not good enough to be pairing it with a GTX 1080.

First order of business should be replacing that power supply with one that has at least halfway decent quality, because I wouldn't be even slightly surprised if that unit was all of your problem to begin with.

Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. Well, that couldn't be further from the truth.

There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb and might in fact be more dangerous due to their supposedly high capacity due to poor or non-existent protections inside the unit.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it is a PSU platform that we already know is good anyhow. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or not is irrelevant.

Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far there are very few very good units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.

Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.

Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.

Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.

Super Flower. Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.

Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.

Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.

Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.

Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (Most models failed testing), BQ, BR, BT and G1 NEX models.

Good models are the B2, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master.

They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JonnyGuru for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.

Cooler Master Masterwatt Lite 600W review

And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.

Power supply discussion thread

The Powerspec units sold my Microcenter are a mixed bag. Some of them are fairly decent using the same platform as the Sirfa High power astro lite platform, so not total dumpster fire type units, but not particularly good either, and some of their units are simply garbage and should be listed below in the DO NOT USE category, but I'm leaving them out because there are really no reviews of them and since there are a few units from them that are ok-ish, I'm giving them a "use at your own discretion but buy a better model if you can" grade.

A gray label CX or CXm unit would probably be an upgrade from one of those Powerspec models, without any doubt.

Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.

If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.

I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.


Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include

A-Top, AK Power, Alpine, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Eurotech, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, High power, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, Rave, Rocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.
 

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