PC Not Booting ( D0 Debug Code )

[shiroBlank]

I recently finished my new PC build, and when I saw it first turn on, I was amazed. But now, while prepping to install Windows, I plugged in my monitor, and saw the message " No Signal ". Thats when I realized the Debug Code LED had said " E0 ". So going through multiple forums, and using their "solutions" i was able to change the code from E0 to D0. But now I'm stuck. I've tried many solutions like changing RAM slots, using only 1 stick, using the last DIMM slot, removing Graphics Card and using On-Board graphics, clearing CMOS, and booting with nothing connected to it( like USBs). I plugged in my speaker thingy, but i don't really think it beeps, I could be wrong because I don't know what it sounds like.

Specifications
MSI z170a XPower Titanium Gaming Edition
ASUS ROG Strix GTX 1080
Intel I7 6700k
G.Skill 16GB 2400MHz TridentZ RGB
XSPC 360mm Radiator/ 3x 120mm fans/ Ion Pump and Reservoir
WD 3tb 7300RPM HDD
WD 250GB SDD
EVGA 650 GS 650W
EVGA Custom White Cable Kit
ThermalTake Core P3

I've made sure everything was plugged in correctly, and it had fans in the CPU_Fan Header slot, the other CPU Power thing up top, along side the other 8-pin connector. I have yet to reseat the CPU and check for bent pins, but as far as I remember, while installing the CPU, the motherboard didn't have any bent pins. The motherboard is already an RMA replacement that Ive received so I do not think it's bricked. The CPU was bought new, but I could have them send me a new one too. But I want to do that as a final resort. Ive read that some G.Skill RAM Sticks aren't compatible with MSI, but I'm pretty sure my version is compatible, the F4-2400C15D.

Update #1 - Im pretty sure it's beeping every so often.

 

[elbert]

CPU errors so either you tightend the cooler down to hard causing a motherboard wire issue or the CPU is bad/missing pins. I would have added bent pins and bad motherboard but you already checked those.

D0 = CPU initialization error

 

[shiroBlank]

CPU errors so either you tightend the cooler down to hard causing a motherboard wire issue or the CPU is bad/missing pins. I would have added bent pins and bad motherboard but you already checked those.

D0 = CPU initialization error

So theres a change i might have cranked my cooler down to much? Ill loosen it up, thank you for the reply. And if I did do it too hard, would that have made an issue? Like bent pins?

Update #2 - Just read that my motherboard could also have a corrupted BIOS, so is there anyway to fix/repair it

 

[Tom Tancredi]

1) I would bread board. Which is to say, just the Mobo on the Mobo box (not in the case), with the PSU powering it, 1 RAM stick, keyboard, mouse and video (No GPU) plugged in and get to 'POST'.
If you can't then yes then did you look up on the Mobo maker's website and find THAT EXACT model is authorized as working on THAT Mobo Version + BIOS Edition? IF NO, then the RAM is ht eissue.
2) This is how you start to build, you then add more RAM, keep testing to BIOS/ UEFT, then adding more and more parts to just THIS out of case solution. Once you got this all connected and knowing ALL parts work (see HDDs listed, RAM is correct, you can see the BIOS through THE GPU not onboard, etc.) then you can start to mount and move things into the system, Again restesting REPEATEDLY each step you do.

This is the only way to see when something 'changes' and has 'gone wrong'.

 

[elbert]

It could cause issues with the CPU signalling the RAM. Some systems start on the second boot after the wires warm up and expand a bit. This is simulor to what over tighting can cause.

The motherboard has bios flashback so sure it can do this without the CPU. Just download the bios and uncompress it on the USB. Be sure the USB is in the correct slot in the back and push the button.

 

[shiroBlank]

1) I would bread board. Which is to say, just the Mobo on the Mobo box (not in the case), with the PSU powering it, 1 RAM stick, keyboard, mouse and video (No GPU) plugged in and get to 'POST'.
If you can't then yes then did you look up on the Mobo maker's website and find THAT EXACT model is authorized as working on THAT Mobo Version + BIOS Edition? IF NO, then the RAM is ht eissue.
2) This is how you start to build, you then add more RAM, keep testing to BIOS/ UEFT, then adding more and more parts to just THIS out of case solution. Once you got this all connected and knowing ALL parts work (see HDDs listed, RAM is correct, you can see the BIOS through THE GPU not onboard, etc.) then you can start to mount and move things into the system, Again restesting REPEATEDLY each step you do.

This is the only way to see when something 'changes' and has 'gone wrong'.

Ill try to get the motherboard off the case, but it'll be a bit challenging since I have my custom loops running through out, but it'll be challenging. And if you're referring to the chance that the case might be grounding the board, It's on those"spacers" , and Ihave other spacers that ill try. Thank you for your response.

 

[shiroBlank]

It could cause issues with the CPU signalling the RAM. Some systems start on the second boot after the wires warm up and expand a bit. This is simulor to what over tighting can cause.

The motherboard has bios flashback so sure it can do this without the CPU. Just download the bios and uncompress it on the USB. Be sure the USB is in the correct slot in the back and push the button.

All right, ill try that, thank you for your response.

 

[Tom Tancredi]

CPU errors so either you tightend the cooler down to hard causing a motherboard wire issue or the CPU is bad/missing pins. I would have added bent pins and bad motherboard but you already checked those.

D0 = CPU initialization error

So theres a change i might have cranked my cooler down to much? Ill loosen it up, thank you for the reply. And if I did do it too hard, would that have made an issue? Like bent pins?

Update #2 - Just read that my motherboard could also have a corrupted BIOS, so is there anyway to fix/repair it

*facepaws* - I would stop everything, and breadboard as I outlined. A manufacturer doesn't send out corrupted mobos and does nothing about it. It would corrupt if you messed with the BIOS, but the error tells you AS noted the issue is CPU.

And I can't count how EASILY killing the pins on it can be done, especially when 'cranking down' too much. Also might I add, NEVER go with the Watercooled solution TILL your done breadboarding with the OEM FAN included. Once you get to the point to 'mount' everything, then swapping to watercooled would be a STEP to try and TEST to make sure you didn't "mess up"

Sound like you did like I did, and killed your CPU most likely. Make sure to use a high powered light and magnifying lens. I would suggest one of the ones used for make-up applying or such to help .

 

[shiroBlank]

CPU errors so either you tightend the cooler down to hard causing a motherboard wire issue or the CPU is bad/missing pins. I would have added bent pins and bad motherboard but you already checked those.

D0 = CPU initialization error

So theres a change i might have cranked my cooler down to much? Ill loosen it up, thank you for the reply. And if I did do it too hard, would that have made an issue? Like bent pins?

Update #2 - Just read that my motherboard could also have a corrupted BIOS, so is there anyway to fix/repair it

*facepaws* - I would stop everything, and breadboard as I outlined. A manufacturer doesn't send out corrupted mobos and does nothing about it. It would corrupt if you messed with the BIOS, but the error tells you AS noted the issue is CPU.

And I can't count how EASILY killing the pins on it can be done, especially when 'cranking down' too much. Also might I add, NEVER go with the Watercooled solution TILL your done breadboarding with the OEM FAN included. Once you get to the point to 'mount' everything, then swapping to watercooled would be a STEP to try and TEST to make sure you didn't "mess up"

Sound like you did like I did, and killed your CPU most likely. Make sure to use a high powered light and magnifying lens. I would suggest one of the ones used for make-up applying or such to help .

So theres a chance that I might have killed my CPU by cranking it down too hard? I don't think I had did it that hard, buttons again, I don't know how easily bending pins is so yeah. This is my "first" time building a pc, at least from scratch. Im assuming you're telling me to take out my block, and cpu, to check if i did bend me pins. And how do i find out that I killed me cpu? Aside from breading it

 

[Tom Tancredi]

CPU errors so either you tightend the cooler down to hard causing a motherboard wire issue or the CPU is bad/missing pins. I would have added bent pins and bad motherboard but you already checked those.

D0 = CPU initialization error

So theres a change i might have cranked my cooler down to much? Ill loosen it up, thank you for the reply. And if I did do it too hard, would that have made an issue? Like bent pins?

Update #2 - Just read that my motherboard could also have a corrupted BIOS, so is there anyway to fix/repair it

*facepaws* - I would stop everything, and breadboard as I outlined. A manufacturer doesn't send out corrupted mobos and does nothing about it. It would corrupt if you messed with the BIOS, but the error tells you AS noted the issue is CPU.

And I can't count how EASILY killing the pins on it can be done, especially when 'cranking down' too much. Also might I add, NEVER go with the Watercooled solution TILL your done breadboarding with the OEM FAN included. Once you get to the point to 'mount' everything, then swapping to watercooled would be a STEP to try and TEST to make sure you didn't "mess up"

Sound like you did like I did, and killed your CPU most likely. Make sure to use a high powered light and magnifying lens. I would suggest one of the ones used for make-up applying or such to help .

So theres a chance that I might have killed my CPU by cranking it down too hard? I don't think I had did it that hard, buttons again, I don't know how easily bending pins is so yeah. This is my "first" time building a pc, at least from scratch. Im assuming you're telling me to take out my block, and cpu, to check if i did bend me pins. And how do i find out that I killed me cpu?

Well welcome to learning the hardway, and be ready to pay for a new CPU possibly.

Yes as I said you need to take it all apart. I also said how to 'breadboard' which tests the parts each 'step' one at a time...
Yeah slowwwwww.. tedious as hell... boring... but saves you MONEY and frustration from 'what doesn't work' to knowing which part your having a issue with.


So I would again tell you take EVERYTHING APART. YES EVERYTHING.

Take the Mobo put it on top of the Motherboard box it came in OR on a piece of wood (grounding it and is why it is called breadboarding because it used to be the 'bread board' you would cut your bread on people used to build the parts on top of).

Take the CPU, turn it upside down looking down each 'lane' of pins with a HIGH INTENSE light and best with a magnifying lens. Do you see any bent? If yes, then you will have to risk tryng to CAREFULLY bend them back in line with the others. Worst case you BROKE them. Best case your LUCKY and can bend them back into play. NO they WILL NOT TAKE THE CPU BACK, or replace it, your loss your cost - so we are clear.

Insert the CPU, then did you put Thermal Paste on it ? DId you make sure it is a clean job? None spilling over the sides?

Mount the OEM Fan that came with the CPU.

Now mount ONE STICK of RAM.

Plug in K-V-M (Keyboard Video Mouse) to the Mobo (it should have IGP).

Connect case power to the mobo and the Mobo to on/off switch ONLY.

Power on, can you get to POST.

Once you get successful, then you add ONE THING next, then REPEAT, can you POST? Then add next thing, REPEAT REPEAT REPEAT, till all parts are connected (Mobo, CPu, GPU, RAM, HDD). Then carefully start to mount each part, and as each ONE PART is mounted (one hard drive for example) REPEAT THE TEST.

IF at anytime you get a problem now you know where to look for the issue. You isolated down to the most likely culprit and can test till success. NEVER SPEED through the process, it never works.

 

[shiroBlank]

CPU errors so either you tightend the cooler down to hard causing a motherboard wire issue or the CPU is bad/missing pins. I would have added bent pins and bad motherboard but you already checked those.

D0 = CPU initialization error

So theres a change i might have cranked my cooler down to much? Ill loosen it up, thank you for the reply. And if I did do it too hard, would that have made an issue? Like bent pins?

Update #2 - Just read that my motherboard could also have a corrupted BIOS, so is there anyway to fix/repair it

*facepaws* - I would stop everything, and breadboard as I outlined. A manufacturer doesn't send out corrupted mobos and does nothing about it. It would corrupt if you messed with the BIOS, but the error tells you AS noted the issue is CPU.

And I can't count how EASILY killing the pins on it can be done, especially when 'cranking down' too much. Also might I add, NEVER go with the Watercooled solution TILL your done breadboarding with the OEM FAN included. Once you get to the point to 'mount' everything, then swapping to watercooled would be a STEP to try and TEST to make sure you didn't "mess up"

Sound like you did like I did, and killed your CPU most likely. Make sure to use a high powered light and magnifying lens. I would suggest one of the ones used for make-up applying or such to help .

So theres a chance that I might have killed my CPU by cranking it down too hard? I don't think I had did it that hard, buttons again, I don't know how easily bending pins is so yeah. This is my "first" time building a pc, at least from scratch. Im assuming you're telling me to take out my block, and cpu, to check if i did bend me pins. And how do i find out that I killed me cpu?

Well welcome to learning the hardway, and be ready to pay for a new CPU possibly.

Yes as I said you need to take it all apart. I also said how to 'breadboard' which tests the parts each 'step' one at a time...
Yeah slowwwwww.. tedious as hell... boring... but saves you MONEY and frustration from 'what doesn't work' to knowing which part your having a issue with.


So I would again tell you take EVERYTHING APART. YES EVERYTHING.

Take the Mobo put it on top of the Motherboard box it came in OR on a piece of wood (grounding it and is why it is called breadboarding because it used to be the 'bread board' you would cut your bread on people used to build the parts on top of).

Take the CPU, turn it upside down looking down each 'lane' of pins with a HIGH INTENSE light and best with a magnifying lens. Do you see any bent? If yes, then you will have to risk tryng to CAREFULLY bend them back in line with the others. Worst case you BROKE them. Best case your LUCKY and can bend them back into play. NO they WILL NOT TAKE THE CPU BACK, or replace it, your loss your cost - so we are clear.

Insert the CPU, then did you put Thermal Paste on it ? DId you make sure it is a clean job? None spilling over the sides?

Mount the OEM Fan that came with the CPU.

Now mount ONE STICK of RAM.

Plug in K-V-M (Keyboard Video Mouse) to the Mobo (it should have IGP).

Connect case power to the mobo and the Mobo to on/off switch ONLY.

Power on, can you get to POST.

Once you get successful, then you add ONE THING next, then REPEAT, can you POST? Then add next thing, REPEAT REPEAT REPEAT, till all parts are connected (Mobo, CPu, GPU, RAM, HDD). Then carefully start to mount each part, and as each ONE PART is mounted (one hard drive for example) REPEAT THE TEST.

IF at anytime you get a problem now you know where to look for the issue. You isolated down to the most likely culprit and can test till success. NEVER SPEED through the process, it never works.

Well, I began starting to take it apart, looking for bent pins, and to be completely honest, the pins don't look bent, and I wanted to reconfirm with you, you said to " take the CPU and turn it upside down, and looks at the rows of pins", but the motherboard's socket has the pins, i just wanted to reconfirm with you that ,that is normal

 

[Tom Tancredi]

Well, I began starting to take it apart, looking for bent pins, and to be completely honest, the pins don't look bent, and I wanted to reconfirm with you, you said to " take the CPU and turn it upside down, and looks at the rows of pins", but the motherboard's socket has the pins, i just wanted to reconfirm with you that ,that is normal

*Facepaw*
http://techreport.com/r.x/skylake/6700k-bottom-310.jpg

Yeah I forgot they reversed it, putting the pins on the board not the CPU. Which means the Mobo would need to be tossed in stead of the CPU if they messed up.

 

[shiroBlank]

Well, I began starting to take it apart, looking for bent pins, and to be completely honest, the pins don't look bent, and I wanted to reconfirm with you, you said to " take the CPU and turn it upside down, and looks at the rows of pins", but the motherboard's socket has the pins, i just wanted to reconfirm with you that ,that is normal

*Facepaw*
http://techreport.com/r.x/skylake/6700k-bottom-310.jpg

Yeah I forgot they reversed it, putting the pins on the board not the CPU. Which means the Mobo would need to be tossed in stead of the CPU if they messed up.

Don't know if this information is useful, but i ran the computer without the cooler, and the processor doesn't even get warm. Sorry to ask so much of you, and I appreciate you following me through this process, but what do you think is the part to replace, the motherboard or the CPU? The motherboard doesn't have any bent pins, and I didn't crank down the processor much during the initial building part.

 

[Tom Tancredi]

Did you use a high powered light and magnifying lens, turning the board 90 degrees, each time going up and down every single row carefully an slowly, till you looked at it 360 degrees? That takes a good 30 minute or more to do???

Did you follow EVERY step I laid out after that in the 30 minute since my post telling you step by step for each single part to test your way to a FULL BUILD? Very unlikely.

So I would stop worrying about posting here, there is no 'one thing' and magically it is 'done'. You need to focus CAREFULLY on doing as outlined, tediously, boring, as long as it takes (hours) because there is no other way to make sure each single part works correctly.

 

[shiroBlank]

Did you use a high powered light and magnifying lens, turning the board 90 degrees, each time going up and down every single row carefully an slowly, till you looked at it 360 degrees? That takes a good 30 minute or more to do???

Did you follow EVERY step I laid out after that in the 30 minute since my post telling you step by step for each single part to test your way to a FULL BUILD? Very unlikely.

So I would stop worrying about posting here, there is no 'one thing' and magically it is 'done'. You need to focus CAREFULLY on doing as outlined, tediously, boring, as long as it takes (hours) because there is no other way to make sure each single part works correctly.

I realize that, and I already begun the process of taking things out. An issue is that I've never been able to reach POST, my monitor at no point gave me any signal, and my little speaker thing never did make a beep. All it can do is turn on, and light up, all the fans run.

 

[Tom Tancredi]

Thus is why you need to set it out as I said. If you don't even get a beep, then you need to test which part SHOULD give you a beep. So if you remove the CPU for example, does the board beep the CPU missing? IF not then your board may be (as suggested dead). If you get the beep for it, then you know the board sees a missing CPU, what is next,.... RAM.. and so on. You have to eliminate and figure out what part works and what doesn't.

Otherwise at this point, being this is seriously detailed and indepth, that can't be further done over the Internet Forums, I would suggest taking it to a Mom and Pop store and have them diagnose and resolve it or a 'PC friend' whome does it. This is really getting in-person testing and resolving.