[SOLVED] PC powers off after UPS gets back power

WrongRookie

Reputable
Oct 23, 2020
640
42
4,940
I have an issue which involves the PC. I have a ups which is connected to the power line. Only the monitor and the pc are connected to the ups.
When there is power failure, the ups successfully does its job to provide back up for the desktop and it does not interrupt the desktops power supply.
However, when the mains power supply comes back within a second, the ups gets its power back but the PC shuts down and turns back on instead of being left on.
Earlier I had this issue with my first ups and having thought that the problem was the ups, I had replaced it with a new one which is APC back ups 1100v. But the problem still persists.
What could be the real issue if the ups isn't the problem?

PC Specs
OS: Windows 10 pro 64-bit
CPU: Intel Core i7 7700@ 3.60GHz Kaby Lake 14nm Technology
Ram 16.0 GB Dual-Channel @ 1063MHz
Motherboard: Supermicro C7H270-CG-ML(CPU)
Graphics
Dell SE2416H(1920X1080@60Hz) 4095MB NVIDIA Geforce GTX 1050 Ti(ZOTAC INTERNATIONAL)
Storage
1863GB SEAGATE ST2000Dm006-2DM164(SATA) 1863GB TOSHIBA External USB 3.0 USB Device(USB(SATA))
Optical Drives
Asus DRW-24D5MT
AUDIO Realtek High Definition Audio

Current UPS I have is APC Back Ups 1100VA
 
Solution
Wait a minute...so if the UPS I have is a 1100VA, then what PSU should I get that can support the UPS battery before it shuts down? This one os 650W and my UPS has only 660W so I can't get a PSU that has more watts for the UPS to support...right?

no no no.... That's not how it works. Your UPS capacity is fine. Your PSU has enough wattage. It's the output voltage of the UPS vs. the input requirement of that particular PSU. We're talking voltage. Not wattage here.

The new version of the VS650 won't have that problem because it has full range input. If the UPS doesn't output a full 230V in < 16ms, the new PSU won't shut down because it's designed to work on voltages as low as 100V.

Think of it this way.... Power goes out...

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
Which model APC UPS?

Is the UPS directly connected to a wall outlet? No interim surge protectors, power strips, etc. between wall outlet and UPS - correct?

Any other devices plugged in the same wall outlet?

Are you using APC's software (Powerchute) to monitor the UPS?

Can you see the UPS status Indicators? What do the status LEDs indicate? Any buzzes/tones.

Have you created any Power Plans within Windows? Or may have one in place via your computer's OEM.

Look in the PC's Reliability History log. The log may be capturing some error code, warning, or even informational event regarding "power back shutdowns".
 

WrongRookie

Reputable
Oct 23, 2020
640
42
4,940
Which model APC UPS?

Is the UPS directly connected to a wall outlet? No interim surge protectors, power strips, etc. between wall outlet and UPS - correct?

Any other devices plugged in the same wall outlet?

Are you using APC's software (Powerchute) to monitor the UPS?

Can you see the UPS status Indicators? What do the status LEDs indicate? Any buzzes/tones.

Have you created any Power Plans within Windows? Or may have one in place via your computer's OEM.

Look in the PC's Reliability History log. The log may be capturing some error code, warning, or even informational event regarding "power back shutdowns".

APC is 1100VA Back-UPS

Its connected to the wall outlet. No surge protector whatsoever. And even without the surge protector, the issue still happens.

No. Only the UPS is connected to the wall outlet.

No I have not used the software.

The only time the APC blinks and then becomes green is when powering it on. As soon as it turns full green, the PC shuts down and reboots(this is the same issue).

No. I have not created any power plans.

I've looked at the viewer and it just shows the Kernel problem.

In case you want to know, the PSU is Corsair VS650
 
VS is yellow. Can't tell which version it is.

Ok. That's the old 230V only version of the VS. About five years old. Replace it.

The UPS has a good "switch over" time (it's shorter than the PSU's hold up time), but if it can't supply 180V or more within the hold up time period, the PSU will shut off to protect the bridge rectifier.

One of the reasons that PSU was discontinued and one of the reasons I tell people NEVER buy a 230V only PSU.
 

WrongRookie

Reputable
Oct 23, 2020
640
42
4,940
Ok. That's the old 230V only version of the VS. About five years old. Replace it.

The UPS has a good "switch over" time (it's shorter than the PSU's hold up time), but if it can't supply 180V or more within the hold up time period, the PSU will shut off to protect the bridge rectifier.

One of the reasons that PSU was discontinued and one of the reasons I tell people NEVER buy a 230V only PSU.

Wait a minute...so if the UPS I have is a 1100VA, then what PSU should I get that can support the UPS battery before it shuts down? This one os 650W and my UPS has only 660W so I can't get a PSU that has more watts for the UPS to support...right?
 
Wait a minute...so if the UPS I have is a 1100VA, then what PSU should I get that can support the UPS battery before it shuts down? This one os 650W and my UPS has only 660W so I can't get a PSU that has more watts for the UPS to support...right?

no no no.... That's not how it works. Your UPS capacity is fine. Your PSU has enough wattage. It's the output voltage of the UPS vs. the input requirement of that particular PSU. We're talking voltage. Not wattage here.

The new version of the VS650 won't have that problem because it has full range input. If the UPS doesn't output a full 230V in < 16ms, the new PSU won't shut down because it's designed to work on voltages as low as 100V.

Think of it this way.... Power goes out, UPS switches to battery. That takes about 4ms and the output is > 180V. Then the power comes back on, the UPS switches back to mains power, but for whatever reason, it's taking longer than 16ms for the output to the PSU to get > 180V, so the PSU resets.

Get a new PSU that is NOT a 230V only PSU.
 
Solution

WrongRookie

Reputable
Oct 23, 2020
640
42
4,940
no no no.... That's not how it works. Your UPS capacity is fine. Your PSU has enough wattage. It's the output voltage of the UPS vs. the input requirement of that particular PSU. We're talking voltage. Not wattage here.

The new version of the VS650 won't have that problem because it has full range input. If the UPS doesn't output a full 230V in < 16ms, the new PSU won't shut down because it's designed to work on voltages as low as 100V.

Think of it this way.... Power goes out, UPS switches to battery. That takes about 4ms and the output is > 180V. Then the power comes back on, the UPS switches back to mains power, but for whatever reason, it's taking longer than 16ms for the output to the PSU to get > 180V, so the PSU resets.

Get a new PSU that is NOT a 230V only PSU.

Ok...get a PSU that is not 230V. Got it. Also which is the latest VS one and what PSU I should get that isn't 230V?
 

WrongRookie

Reputable
Oct 23, 2020
640
42
4,940
Oh, so you mean to say that the UPS individually supports upto 1100VA for each plug inserted to it? Like as in it does not combine the power of the Monitor and the PC together?

No.

I didn't say that.

How much wattage does the monitor use? It should say so right on the power brick (or back label if it doesn't have a brick).

It's probably no more than 90W.

Keep in mind, a PSU only produces whatever power is demanded of it. Just because you have a 650W PSU doesn't mean you're putting a 650W load on the PC.
 

WrongRookie

Reputable
Oct 23, 2020
640
42
4,940
No.

I didn't say that.

How much wattage does the monitor use? It should say so right on the power brick (or back label if it doesn't have a brick).

It's probably no more than 90W.

Keep in mind, a PSU only produces whatever power is demanded of it. Just because you have a 650W PSU doesn't mean you're putting a 650W load on the PC.
Monitor is 39 watts.

But ok, I'll get a 550w psu if my technician says so...but you're certain that is enough for the ups to back up power and not cause that reboot issue right?