Question PC randomly crashing, now seems to boot but won't display anything?

[EvanPeterson111]

My PC was working fine for a while, but it started freezing during gaming. Everything would be fine, but then it would suddenly slow and the screen would freeze, forcing me to do a hard restart. I tried installing the latest Bios. The PC turned on again, but the problem continued. This happened several times, but now I can't get anything to display.

The only components I have connected are the motherboard, PSU, CPU, RAM, graphics card, and monitor. When I power it on, everything in the case seems fine. Using a keyboard and hitting DEL, I can reach Dr Debug code AB, which usually shows when at the Bios settings. Or I can get Dr Debug to turn off by hitting F1, as if it's getting past the Boot screen. However, nothing displays on my monitor. It recognizes that the HDMI cable is connected, but there's no signal.

Before when I had all my components connected, I had some weird behavior that I am now unable to replicate. When powering on, I would see code A2, which I think means it has an issue connecting to the OS on my SSD. Clearing the CMOS battery would make it get past that code, but it still wouldn't display anything.

I've tried clearing CMOS several times, swapping out the graphics card, switching RAM sticks around, swapping the monitor, reinstalling the CPU and cooler (no pins looked bent), and switching the PCIE slot of the graphics card. The first time I switched PCIE slots, the screen actually displayed the Bios settings. However, I had no input, so I assume it crashed and it won't display anymore.

Looking online, I couldn't find any solutions that fixed it. The parts I haven't been able to swap are the CPU, motherboard, and PSU. My hunch is that it's the motherboard. I'll try replacing it next. Has anyone had a similar problem? Sorry if this post is long, but it's hard to tell what is the root of the problem and what is just a symptom.

Specs:
CPU: Intel i5-3570k
GPU: GeForce RTX 2060
RAM: 16 GB DDR3-1600
PSU: Antec 750W 80 Plus Bronze
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
Bios version: 3.00

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

My PC was working fine for a while, but it started freezing during gaming.
There are two reasons when a system will lock up and shut down when taxed. Either;
1| There's an overheating issue
or
2| Your PSU is incapable of delivering power to the entire system when taxed.

PSU: Antec 750W 80 Plus Bronze
How old is the PSU?

Might want to source(borrow, not buy) a reliably built PSU that can deliver 650W to the entire system.

I'll try replacing it next.
Please be wary that replacing parts out of pocket is only going to run your wallet dry and you'll have parts to build another system albeit they're yesteryears tech. This is why we suggest borrowing instead of buying.

 

[EvanPeterson111]

Thanks for the quick response! The year on the PSU is 2011 and it's been in use for several years now. I don't know a source where I can borrow PC parts, but I can at least buy a used one and return it if it doesn't fix the problem. Would a bad PSU prevent the PC from displaying the Bios, even though the motherboard, CPU and GPU are receiving some power?

 

[Aeacus]

The year on the PSU is 2011

Exact model (or part number) of the PSU is?

Would a bad PSU prevent the PC from displaying the Bios, even though the motherboard, CPU and GPU are receiving some power?

Yes.

However, to further test it, remove the GPU from the system and hook monitor to MoBo. Since your CPU has iGPU in it that you can use.

Could be that only your GPU is toast, hence why you don't see an image.

But if no dice, one of the following, or all of them are dead (faulty): CPU, MoBo, RAM, PSU.

To test which one exactly, you need 2nd, compatible system, where to test out components individually. Except PSU. That one is way too old to be used regardless.

 

[EvanPeterson111]

My PSU's model is HCG-750. Printed above the barcode is G110ADUD0010448.

I didn't know that my CPU had integrated graphics. That helped a lot. I can use it to operate the PC like normal. Now I can see that in the Bios, the PCIE slot containing my graphics card is shown as empty. I tried plugging in another graphics card and it also showed the slot as empty. Therefore, I don't think my graphics card is faulty, but I don't have another PC to test it on to make sure.

I can try a few things tomorrow like reinstalling graphics drivers or Bios, or checking device manager. I have Windows 10 Pro by the way.

 

[Aeacus]

My PSU's model is HCG-750.

Back in 2010, when the PSU launched, it was a good PSU. It uses Seasonic S12II platform (best group-regulated PSU ever made). However, at current day and age, the PSU is WAY too old and best to replace it ASAP, before it gives up the ghost and fries something else as well.

Speaking of it, just yesterday there was another person in TH forums who's Seasonic S12II-520 gave up the ghost and most likely fried something else as well.
Topic if interested: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...om-the-motherboard-and-burning-smell.3883562/

So, if you want to avoid the same fate, do replace your PSU with modern and brand new one.
Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.
Hence why NEVER cheap out on PSU! Also, never buy used PSU either.

For a new PSU, i suggest anything from Tier A, like: Seasonic Focus/Vertex/PRIME, Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi, Super Flower Leadex Gold/Platinum/Titanium.
PSU Tier list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...JWkc/edit?pli=1&gid=1973454078#gid=1973454078

Tier A- will do too, while Tier A+ is preferred.
650W unit does fine. 750W unit won't hurt either.
(My 3x PCs are also powered by Seasonic. I have PRIME 650 Titanium (Tier A+), PRIME Ultra 650 Titanium (Tier A+) and Focus PX-550 (Tier A) units. Full specs with pics in my sig.)

I didn't know that my CPU had integrated graphics. That helped a lot. I can use it to operate the PC like normal.

Now I can see that in the Bios, the PCIE slot containing my graphics card is shown as empty. I tried plugging in another graphics card and it also showed the slot as empty. Therefore, I don't think my graphics card is faulty, but I don't have another PC to test it on to make sure.

Well, you MoBo has 2nd PCI-E x16 slot (labeled as PCIe3), where you can plug your GPU in. While 2nd slot doesn't provide the full 16 PCI-E lanes, instead only 8 PCI-E lanes, GPU in there still works.

So, you can try out the 2nd slot as well. Could be that the initial PCI-E slot (PCIe2) on your MoBo died.

If lucky, you can use your RTX 2060 some more, albeit at a bit reduced performance. If not and where both PCI-E slots are toast, then you're stuck using iGPU. But at least you can use your PC and surf the web. Maybe even play some light games (e.g Minecraft).
Other than that, new MoBo is needed. But given your PC's age, better to go with new CPU-MoBo-RAM combo, alongside new PSU.

 

[EvanPeterson111]

I ordered a new PSU and I'll wait until it arrives before I do anything intensive.

In the meantime, I've been trying to get the PCIE slots to recognize my graphics card. To my surprise, the solution on https://www.tweaktownforum.com/foru...ci-e-slot-stopped-working-after-clearing-cmos seemed to work. Basically, I turned off the PSU, connected the clear CMOS pin jumper, removed the CMOS battery, and left it for over 12 hours. Before, I had tried clearing CMOS or removing the CMOS battery for several seconds, but I guess that's not the same. In the Bios settings, the PCIE slot was now active and I could see the screen with my HDMI cable connected to the graphics card.

However, after a few seconds, the fans on my graphics card stopped spinning, even though it was still working. I promptly shut down and I won't be taking any chances until the new PSU comes in.

 

[Aeacus]

I ordered a new PSU and I'll wait until it arrives before I do anything intensive.

Make and model of the new PSU is?

I had tried clearing CMOS or removing the CMOS battery for several seconds, but I guess that's not the same.

To clear CMOS by removing the battery, you should wait for several minutes (e.g 5mins) for the effect to take place (time that takes capacitors on MoBo to drain).
Now, if your MoBo would have CMOS clear pins (+ and - pins) that you can short, or clear CMOS button, then one instance of it is enough to clear CMOS.

However, after a few seconds, the fans on my graphics card stopped spinning, even though it was still working.

What variant of RTX 2060 you actually have? FE? Or when AIB, then which one?
(FE = Founders Edition, directly from Nvidia. AIB = Add-in Board partner, e.g MSI, EVGA, Asus, Gigabyte.)

If you scroll down here, you'll see all AIB models that exist of RTX 2060. Since there are that many, i'm not going to even guess what you have,
link: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/geforce-rtx-2060.c3310

For example, MSI Gaming series GPUs, e.g MSI RTX 2060 Gaming 6G has Zero Frozr feature, whereby when GPU temp is 60C or lower, the fans will stop completely. This makes GPU noise 0 dB(A) and also extends the fans longevity.

For the last few years, MSI has been doing a great job of keeping noise levels of their cards low, and the RTX 2060 Gaming Z is no exception. It includes the highly sought after idle-fan-stop feature which turns the fans off completely during idle and light gaming to completely eliminate noise.

Source, GPU review: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/msi-geforce-rtx-2060-gaming-z/31.html

Due to this reason (among others), i'm also using MSI Gaming series GPUs. The two i have, are MSI GTX 1660 Ti Gaming X 6G (in my main build) and MSI GTX 1060 Gaming X 3G (in my 2nd build).

So, if your GPU has the same zero fan RPM on low temps feature, you may have needlessly shut down your PC.