[SOLVED] PC Rebooting whilst Playing Games - PSU Underpowered?

[JoeSchmo12346]

I'm having an issue with my PC rebooting whilst gaming or using demanding applications, such as Fusion 360. There's no BSoD or any other error message, just a complete reboot (and it sounds someone's yanked the plug out of my machine when it happens). I strongly suspect it to be the PSU; I recently got a new MoBo, CPU and graphics card (Asus TUF X470 Gaming, Ryzen 5 2600, and a Gigabyte RX 590 respectively). I did not replace the PSU as it is rated 750W so I thought that it would have more than enough juice. It's a Powercool PC-750AUBA-M, for reference. Then I read the following article: https://graphicscardhub.com/psu-graphics-card/, which suggests that the current on the 12v rail (24A), might be considerably low by today's standards. Can anyone confirm this for me, and does anyone know what kind of 12v current I should be looking for with the build that I have?

 

[bmockeg]

That PSU isn’t very good and it’s pretty old. I’d 100% get a quality PSU. Seasonic focus gold, EVGA G3 series, Corsair RMx are good choices

 

[FALC0N]

I'm having an issue with my PC rebooting whilst gaming or using demanding applications, such as Fusion 360. There's no BSoD or any other error message, just a complete reboot (and it sounds someone's yanked the plug out of my machine when it happens). I strongly suspect it to be the PSU; I recently got a new MoBo, CPU and graphics card (Asus TUF X470 Gaming, Ryzen 5 2600, and a Gigabyte RX 590 respectively). I did not replace the PSU as it is rated 750W so I thought that it would have more than enough juice. It's a Powercool PC-750AUBA-M, for reference. Then I read the following article: https://graphicscardhub.com/psu-graphics-card/, which suggests that the current on the 12v rail (24A), might be considerably low by today's standards. Can anyone confirm this for me, and does anyone know what kind of 12v current I should be looking for with the build that I have?

It only has 24 amp on the 12v rail? It's probably dual 12v rails. Either that or its left over from the Pentium 3 era.

 

[JoeSchmo12346]

It only has 24 amp on the 12v rail? It's probably dual 12v rails. Either that or its left over from the Pentium 3 era.

I think it is dual rail now you mention it. There's two pins that output 12v anyway... Does that make it effectively 48A then (2x24v)? I forgot to mention, I've tested it with a multimeter; all the 3.3v and 5v pins are slightly over but within the acceptable range. The 12v pins came up as 12.72v or 12.76v I think, can't remember which. Is okay or is it too far below the line?

Edit: I meant 11.72/11.76v...

 

[JoeSchmo12346]

Seems like the answer is to get a new PSU then... Is there anything else worth checking before doing so? I don't wanna get a new one only to find that it hasn't fixed the problem.

 

[jonnyguru]

I'm having an issue with my PC rebooting whilst gaming or using demanding applications, such as Fusion 360. There's no BSoD or any other error message, just a complete reboot (and it sounds someone's yanked the plug out of my machine when it happens). I strongly suspect it to be the PSU; I recently got a new MoBo, CPU and graphics card (Asus TUF X470 Gaming, Ryzen 5 2600, and a Gigabyte RX 590 respectively). I did not replace the PSU as it is rated 750W so I thought that it would have more than enough juice. It's a Powercool PC-750AUBA-M, for reference. Then I read the following article: https://graphicscardhub.com/psu-graphics-card/, which suggests that the current on the 12v rail (24A), might be considerably low by today's standards. Can anyone confirm this for me, and does anyone know what kind of 12v current I should be looking for with the build that I have?

Wow! That is a garbage, old PSU. Why so many new parts and a garbage PSU?

Yes. The answer is to get a new, GOOD, PSU.

 

[JoeSchmo12346]

Come to think of it, the only thing I tested was the 24 pin connector. Is there a way to test the ATX/PCI-E voltages?

 

[jonnyguru]

Come to think of it, the only thing I tested was the 24 pin connector. Is there a way to test the ATX/PCI-E voltages?

Don't bother. It's a garbage PSU. Right now, what you're doing, is trying to justify doing an oil change on a Yugo with 500K miles on it.

Just replace it.

 

[JoeSchmo12346]

Okay, point taken. Guess I'll just have to do that and stop being so tight-fisted.

 

[bmockeg]

Okay, point taken. Guess I'll just have to do that and stop being so tight-fisted.

If you wanna stay at 750watts get this.


PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hPPFNN

Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $109.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-04 16:28 EST-0500

 

[JoeSchmo12346]

If you wanna stay at 750watts get this.


PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hPPFNN

Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $109.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-04 16:28 EST-0500

Thanks for the recommendation, I've heard good things about Seasonic. I already went for the EVGA 750 G3 though...

 

[bmockeg]

That EVGA will work great.

 

[JoeSchmo12346]

Just an update: After a short delay I finally got my new PSU, everything seems to be going well so far. It's had a profound effect on overall performance, including FPS in games. Hadn't realised how much my PC was suffering with that old PSU. Thanks for all the help guys!