Like the already given answers already proposed it is wise to give the complete specification, or said simpler:
+ The Hardware
... Your type of system, e.g.
- AMD64 | X86_64, running a Intel Core, etc.
- The problematic device your question is based on, WLAN Intel X.Y
"You did that already"
+ The Software
... Your operating system, e.g.
- Windows ? If so NT X.Y or 2k/xp/7/8/8.1/10 or Server 2k/2k3/2k8/2k8r2/2012/2012r2/2016/2019
- GNU/Linux ? Debian 9 Stretch, Ubuntu 18 LTS Bionic, Arch Linux, Fedora 29 Silverblue, etc.
- something else, like Debian Hurd, GuixSD, OpenIndiana, SculptOS, FreeBSD
...
as well as:
... The drivers you or the OS or a DriverSetupHelper-App has installed, e.g.:
- A Driver delivered by an OEM like Dell or HP, because your system was bought from such a vendor; in this case it is safe to name the Model Number and or Series Number/Name, to get info ..
- A driver delivered by the devices-manufacturer aka a generic driver, which can sometimes be the solution, but might also be the reason for the problem, due to the fact that the OEM of your system has specialized firmware to make the device compatible to the rest of the system ..
- A driver delivered by the OS, like given in Windows 10, especially in the SAC-Update-Ring, like part of the Core/Home and Professional Editions .. This is positively a WHQL-certified driver, meaning it has been proven by Microsoft that the Hardware fulfills all requirements to work on the given Family, Generation, Version and Edition you are currently running, but it also means, that the same case as described before for drivers delivered by the device-manufacturer can become the problem, because additional software or customized parts of the driver are necessary to make the device compatible with the rest of the system ..
- If you used a DriverSetupHelper-App, name which one it is, so we can tell you to immediately sharpen your Firewall to block any- and every- -thing, as also shutdown immediately - if necessary forced poweroff, rip the systems drive out of the case connect it secondary or via USB Adapter to another machine, kill any auto-initialization for added drives before adding the drive, use a virus-scanner, whereas it is not meant to pollute your system with heuristic-scanners like McAfee, AntiVir, and the likes, but for example use CLAM-AV and do a full and fully detailed scan of the drive including immediate removal of the 197 trojans, but be aware that essential components of your Windows can and will be identified as Trojans and Malware in genreal, too - guaranteed - ... before you finally plug it back into the PC you ripped it out of; And then come back again and tell us your horror story, cleansed and ready to tackle your driver-problem.
- Yes. I mean it.
Sidenote: The last case is generally a good idea to torture yourself with, enough freetime and masochistic desires given; However, it is definitely considered to be useful in case of installation of DriverSetupHelper-Applications.
- Yes. I mean it.
That aside, don't be scared. It all looks and might sound overwhelming first but essentially just get through it step by step, check by check.
If you want to have quick solutions in future cases, note down all that hard earned information, or print it out if you already registered as a new subscriber to that hip and soooo-cheeeap DriverSetupHelper-App, to lay it out compressed before those individuals that like to get hurt by helping, so eagerly they | we can't help but crying out loud for ..
... MUCH MORE INFORMATION - TELL US ANYTHING - EVERY HORRORSTORY -PLEAAAZZZEEE ...
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Well, i think you got it. In general, in the most common case of Windows from 2k to 10, you can have a look into the device-manager, watch out for a device as an uncollapsed-by-default item in the device-tree, mostly acompanied by an exclamation mark or Riddlers aka Ed Nigmas Corp.-Logo; then jump via right-click and by selecting properties or by double-clicking the item, to open up the specifics of that (mostly missing or could-not-be-started/-initialized) device. Then switch to the tab Details and in the Drop-Down select Hardware-IDs; start with the longest of those PCI-ID-designatiors by right-clicking on it to select copying the entry.
Finally paste it together with your question plus stating your assumption, that this might be the device that makes problems, you may be not sure, but it was obvious that this one is somehow murky.
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Hope it helps. Anyhow. Thanks for reading.
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