Question PC shuts itself down iafter 1 second ?

[Alsace]

Hello,

First of all, a bit of my rig.
Motherboard Biostar N68S3+ DDR3
Ram 12 Gb

As the title says, powering on the PC lasts for 1 second before it shuts itself down.
This problem suddenly appear out of nowhere, even though the PC was normal 6 hours ago.
I've tried removing all of it's parts one by one (HDD, GPU, and RAM)

Then when I removed the RAM (both), the motherboard is powering on like nomal.
I tried inserting the RAM one by one, in both slots once at a time, but the problem keeps repeating itself. (I have 4 RAM sticks, and tried it all)
It shuts down itself after powering up for 1 second.
Already tried resetting CMOS (through jumper pins and also removing battery).
Didn't work, motherboard only powering on if there's no RAM installed.

No problem with the RAM sticks, I tried it on another PC.
I also always took apart everything and cleaning it once a week for the last 11 years.

So, my question is,
Is it only the RAM slots, or the entire motherboard that's busted?

Thanks in advance

 

[helpstar]

you took everything apart once a week?
try a different power supply

 

[Aeacus]

Full system specs, including PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?

I have 4 RAM sticks, and tried it all

I wonder, how do you get 12GB out of 4x DIMMs?
4GB + 4GB + 2GB + 2GB?

Is it only the RAM slots, or the entire motherboard is busted?

Not the best MoBo to begin with (Biostar). Also, it being ancient (11 years) doesn't help either.

Could be that MoBo bit the dust. Or depending on which PSU you have, could be that PSU fried MoBo.
Issue can be with CPU as well, since you didn't validate it inside 2nd PC.
And it can even be PSU issue.

 

[Alsace]

Full system specs, including PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?


I wonder, how do you get 12GB out of 4x DIMMs?
4GB + 4GB + 2GB + 2GB?


Not the best MoBo to begin with (Biostar). Also, it being ancient (11 years) doesn't help either.

Could be that MoBo bit the dust. Or depending on which PSU you have, could be that PSU fried MoBo.
Issue can be with CPU as well, since you didn't validate it inside 2nd PC.
And it can even be PSU issue.

The motherboard only have 2 slots, so it's 8 and 4. The two others sticks are spares (I checked the 4 sticks of RAM performances using my workplace's PC before I post this thread)

 

[Alsace]

you took everything apart once a week?
try a different power supply

Good idea, thanks, but I don't have any spare PSU.
I'll try and bring my PSU to my workplace tomorrow and try it at my office PC.

 

[Aeacus]

I'll repeat myself since this is important:

Full system specs, including PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?

 

[Alsace]

I'll repeat myself since this is important:

I'll add it then,

Athlon II X2
2x HDD 320 Gb Hitachi and WD
PSU DA 600 watts, bought it new 2 years ago.
GPU Nvidia GeForce 730 DDR3 (Fermi).

I need to add, without RAM sticks installed, everything turned on just fine.
The HDD spinning, the cashing and heatsink fans were spinning, also the GPU's fan were spinning too.

Installed a single RAM stick into any of the 2 slots, then insta shutdown after powering up for a second.

So, since I don't have any spare PSU, I'm thinking of bringing my PSU to my workplace and test it there.

 

[Ralston18]

Regarding:

"I'll try and bring my PSU to my workplace tomorrow and try it at my office PC."

Not recommended.

Even if that is your own business/work office and PC do not risk damaging the office PC.

All the more so if that office and PC are your employer's property.

My recommendation is to obtain another PSU to swap into your rig.

 

[Alsace]

Regarding:

"I'll try and bring my PSU to my workplace tomorrow and try it at my office PC."

Not recommended.

Even if that is your own business/work office and PC do not risk damaging the office PC.

All the more so if that office and PC are your employer's property.

My recommendation is to obtain another PSU to swap into your rig.

It'll take at least 2 to 3 month before I can get any money to buy either new motherboard or PSU, so I don't wanna take a blind guess just to try it out.

I also need to add, without any RAM, the PSU runs normally, no sparks, no weird burning smells, and no weird noises.

So at the very least I shouldn't be worried about it overvoltaged or short cirquited and fry the other hardware.

I'll give another update in an hour or two.

 

[Alsace]

Update.

It's been more than 30 minutes, and no sign of any system instability.

My working place rig:
Core i3 3.6 Ghz (4 CPUs)
Radeon R7 240
2 HDD and 1 SSD each 1TB
16 Gb RAM
Motherboard H310M PRO-VH PLUS
2 LG monitors

Currently working with Photoshop, Firefox and Coreldraw opened, After Effect and Premiere also currently rendering video on the background.

So, is the PSU fine, or do I need to test it longer?

 

[Aeacus]

I'll add it then,

Athlon II X2
2x HDD 320 Gb Hitachi and WD
PSU DA 600 watts, bought it new 2 years ago.
GPU Nvidia GeForce 730 DDR3 (Fermi).

Why are you so stingy with your specs?
You say that you do not want to take blind guesses, but you are forcing us to take blind guesses in regards of what hardware you have.

Namely;

Which CPU exactly?
Athlon II X2 is just overall architecture, namely Regor architecture. But there are plethora of different models in that architecture, like:
210e, 215, 220, 235e, 240, 240e, 245, 245e, 250, 250e, 250u, 255, 260, 260u, 265, 270, 270u, 280, B22, B24, B26, B28 and B30.

There are 23 different CPUs within Regor architecture.
I can also say that i too have Athlon II X2 CPU, but can you tell me what my CPU is? You have 1:23 chance to guess it right in 1st try.


DA 600 watts. But how about make?
Is it Deepcool DA600?
Specs: https://www.deepcool.com/products/PowerSupplyUnits/powersupplyunits/2021/11381.shtml

Or something else completely?

I need to add, without RAM sticks installed, everything turned on just fine.
The HDD spinning, the cashing and heatsink fans were spinning, also the GPU's fan were spinning too.

Just because you can get PC to light up, doesn't mean PC works fine.

NONE of the PCs work without RAM. Take out the RAM and MoBo POST loops around, trying to detect RAM, so it can continue booting up the system.

In a similar sense; you turning car's ignition on and when all the lights light up in the car, doesn't mean the engine starts or car drives fine.

I checked the 4 sticks of RAM performances using my workplace's PC before I post this thread

My working place rig:
Motherboard H310M PRO-VH PLUS

There is NO WAY you could've tested your DDR3 RAM in your workplace PC, since H310 chipset supports ONLY DDR4 RAM.

Unless you have access to a 3rd PC that you're not telling us about.

Installed a single RAM stick into any of the 2 slots, then insta shutdown after powering up for a second.

Based on the symptom, MoBo detects a fault between the CPU - MoBo - RAM connection and kills the power not to damage system further.

To validate CPU, you'll need either:
* Test your Athlon II X2 CPU (whatever it may be, within the 23 models) in 2nd, compatible system with AM3 socket.
* Test 2nd, known to work, compatible AM3 socket CPU within your MoBo, to see if it works or not.

To validate DDR3 RAM, you'll need either:
* Test your DDR3 RAM in 2nd, compatible system that supports DDR3 RAM.
* Test with known to work, DDR3 RAM within your MoBo.

To validate AM3 socket MoBo, you'll need:
* 2nd, known to work AM3 socket CPU and 2nd, known to work DDR3 RAM.

I also need to add, without any RAM, the PSU runs normally, no sparks, no weird burning smells, and no weird noises.

So at the very least I shouldn't be worried about it overvoltaged or short cirquited and fry the other hardware.

So, is the PSU fine, or do I need to test it longer?

Without knowing what PSU you have, i can not comment about PSU. Since at current moment, it isn't confirmed what PSU you have.

 

[Alsace]

Why are you so stingy with your specs?
You say that you do not want to take blind guesses, but you are forcing us to take blind guesses in regards of what hardware you have.

Namely;

Which CPU exactly?
Athlon II X2 is just overall architecture, namely Regor architecture. But there are plethora of different models in that architecture, like:
210e, 215, 220, 235e, 240, 240e, 245, 245e, 250, 250e, 250u, 255, 260, 260u, 265, 270, 270u, 280, B22, B24, B26, B28 and B30.

There are 23 different CPUs within Regor architecture.
I can also say that i too have Athlon II X2 CPU, but can you tell me what my CPU is? You have 1:23 chance to guess it right in 1st try.


DA 600 watts. But how about make?
Is it Deepcool DA600?
Specs: https://www.deepcool.com/products/PowerSupplyUnits/powersupplyunits/2021/11381.shtml

Or something else completely?


Just because you can get PC to light up, doesn't mean PC works fine.

NONE of the PCs work without RAM. Take out the RAM and MoBo POST loops around, trying to detect RAM, so it can continue booting up the system.

In a similar sense; you turning car's ignition on and when all the lights light up in the car, doesn't mean the engine starts or car drives fine.


There is NO WAY you could've tested your DDR3 RAM in your workplace PC, since H310 chipset supports ONLY DDR4 RAM.

Unless you have access to a 3rd PC that you're not telling us about.


Based on the symptom, MoBo detects a fault between the CPU - MoBo - RAM connection and kills the power not to damage system further.

To validate CPU, you'll need either:
* Test your Athlon II X2 CPU (whatever it may be, within the 23 models) in 2nd, compatible system with AM3 socket.
* Test 2nd, known to work, compatible AM3 socket CPU within your MoBo, to see if it works or not.

To validate DDR3 RAM, you'll need either:
* Test your DDR3 RAM in 2nd, compatible system that supports DDR3 RAM.
* Test with known to work, DDR3 RAM within your MoBo.

To validate AM3 socket MoBo, you'll need:
* 2nd, known to work AM3 socket CPU and 2nd, known to work DDR3 RAM.


Without knowing what PSU you have, i can not comment about PSU. Since at current moment, it isn't confirmed what PSU you have.

The Rig I mentioned before is for the PSU, not for the RAM testing.

I also sorry for the incomplete specs of my rig
AMD Athlon II X2 240
PSU ATX 600W 80+ Bronze Digital Alliance (which is working fine until now, still using it with my workplace design rig)

The other rig I used for RAM testing are (admin's rig):
Motherboard A780L3G Biostar
Athlon II X2 260
GPU ASUS ATI Radeon HD 5450

The Tested RAMs are VGen 8 Gb, 4 Gb, 4 Gb, and 4 Gb PC-12800

Ah, so it's possible that the CPU causes the immediate shut down too?

Dang it, I should've bring the pocessor this morning.

 

[Aeacus]

I also sorry for the incomplete specs of my rig
AMD Athlon II X2 240

Since you have Athlon II X2 240, it doesn't have iGPU in it. Making your GPU (GT 730) as possible suspect as well.

(Btw, i have Athlon II X2 250 CPU in my AMD build. Full specs with pics in my sig.)

The other rig I used for RAM testing are (admin's rig):
Motherboard A780L3G Biostar
Athlon II X2 260
GPU ASUS ATI Radeon HD 5450

That's compatible system to yours, where you can test out CPU, RAM and GPU too. IF you have permission to use it as test PC that is.

Since there are two compatible PCs;

Take out your II X2 240 and install it in place of II X2 260, to confirm if your II X2 240 works or not. Do not forget to clean up thermal paste and re-applying it every time you take CPU cooler off from CPU.

RAM you've already tested, so no need to test it.

But do test your GT 730 in admin's rig as well, to see if GPU produces image or not.

But i advise strongly against taking admin's PC parts and putting them into your PC, because of the PSU you have.

PSU ATX 600W 80+ Bronze Digital Alliance (which is working fine until now, still using it with my workplace design rig)

This doorstop?
Specs: https://digitalalliance.co.id/produk/da-600w-80-bronze/

If so, this is crap quality PSU and should NEVER be used.
To easily know if it's crap, just look the label on it, namely the +12V rail. it's +12V rail is rated for 20A, which makes 240W. But from where the 600W comes from, written on label?

Even if one is stupid enough and adds all the rails together: +12V at 20A = 240W, +5V at 20A = 100W, +3.3V at 20A = 66W, -12V at 0.5A = 6W, +5Vsb at 2A = 10W, one can get 422W. Nowhere near the 600W on label.
Maximum what your PSU can output on any rail, is 240W (the +12V rail). So, your PSU is 240W PSU and not 600W PSU.

Lying on the PSU label is a tell tale sign of crap quality PSU. Since if it would say honestly on the label that the PSU is 240W unit (which it is), would you have bought it? No, you would have not.

With this, it is confirmed that your PSU is crap quality PSU and there is very high chance that this junk of a PSU killed your PC.
And it can kill your work PC too, if you keep using that crap to power it. PSU already killed one PC. Do you need to cement it by killing 2nd PC as well?

Now, we do not know what PSU is inside the admin's rig. Could be the same crap quality, could be better. But given that admin's rig works and yours doesn't, i guess the PSU in admin's rig is better than what you have. So, do not put any of the components from admin's rig to your PC, since with every power on, you'll risk frying the known to work components as well, which you then have to reimburse.


To get your PC working; new PSU is a must. And depending on which of the components your Digital Alliance PSU fried, you need to replace those as well.
At this point, you can look towards everything that was connected to that junk of a PSU - dead. Including your HDD.

So, you can test out in admin's rig if your CPU, GPU and HDD also survived or not. IF all these work in admin's rig, then your MoBo is dead. Since it will be only component left not to be tested. But it could be that your CPU and/or GPU are dead too.

Essentially, you're looking towards whole PC now.
When PSU acts up, MoBo is 1st to go, followed closely by GPU. RAM and CPU are more durable but aren't invulnerable either. And like i said, PSU replacement is a must, since your Digital Alliance is crap quality PSU. Lying on the label is just a tip of the iceberg. It most likely is far worse inside of it.


I suggest looking towards new PC. Either Core i3 office build (e.g i3-12100) or if you want cheaper, then any 2nd hand Dell/HP prebuilt. Laptop would do too. There are even cheap 2nd hand laptops on sale out there.
This way, you don't have to put effort in, in testing and validating your CPU, GPU and HDD in admin's rig. + Finding compatible replacement parts of any of the dead components.

Life lesson: NEVER cheap out on PSU. Also, never buy used PSU either.
Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.

 

[Alsace]

Since you have Athlon II X2 240, it doesn't have iGPU in it. Making your GPU (GT 730) as possible suspect as well.

(Btw, i have Athlon II X2 250 CPU in my AMD build. Full specs with pics in my sig.)


That's compatible system to yours, where you can test out CPU, RAM and GPU too. IF you have permission to use it as test PC that is.

Since there are two compatible PCs;

Take out your II X2 240 and install it in place of II X2 260, to confirm if your II X2 240 works or not. Do not forget to clean up thermal paste and re-applying it every time you take CPU cooler off from CPU.

RAM you've already tested, so no need to test it.

But do test your GT 730 in admin's rig as well, to see if GPU produces image or not.

But i advise strongly against taking admin's PC parts and putting them into your PC, because of the PSU you have.


This doorstop?
Specs: https://digitalalliance.co.id/produk/da-600w-80-bronze/

If so, this is crap quality PSU and should NEVER be used.
To easily know if it's crap, just look the label on it, namely the +12V rail. it's +12V rail is rated for 20A, which makes 240W. But from where the 600W comes from, written on label?

Even if one is stupid enough and adds all the rails together: +12V at 20A = 240W, +5V at 20A = 100W, +3.3V at 20A = 66W, -12V at 0.5A = 6W, +5Vsb at 2A = 10W, one can get 422W. Nowhere near the 600W on label.
Maximum what your PSU can output on any rail, is 240W (the +12V rail). So, your PSU is 240W PSU and not 600W PSU.

Lying on the PSU label is a tell tale sign of crap quality PSU. Since if it would say honestly on the label that the PSU is 240W unit (which it is), would you have bought it? No, you would have not.

With this, it is confirmed that your PSU is crap quality PSU and there is very high chance that this junk of a PSU killed your PC.
And it can kill your work PC too, if you keep using that crap to power it. PSU already killed one PC. Do you need to cement it by killing 2nd PC as well?

Now, we do not know what PSU is inside the admin's rig. Could be the same crap quality, could be better. But given that admin's rig works and yours doesn't, i guess the PSU in admin's rig is better than what you have. So, do not put any of the components from admin's rig to your PC, since with every power on, you'll risk frying the known to work components as well, which you then have to reimburse.


To get your PC working; new PSU is a must. And depending on which of the components your Digital Alliance PSU fried, you need to replace those as well.
At this point, you can look towards everything that was connected to that junk of a PSU - dead. Including your HDD.

So, you can test out in admin's rig if your CPU, GPU and HDD also survived or not. IF all these work in admin's rig, then your MoBo is dead. Since it will be only component left not to be tested. But it could be that your CPU and/or GPU are dead too.

Essentially, you're looking towards whole PC now.
When PSU acts up, MoBo is 1st to go, followed closely by GPU. RAM and CPU are more durable but aren't invulnerable either. And like i said, PSU replacement is a must, since your Digital Alliance is crap quality PSU. Lying on the label is just a tip of the iceberg. It most likely is far worse inside of it.


I suggest looking towards new PC. Either Core i3 office build (e.g i3-12100) or if you want cheaper, then any 2nd hand Dell/HP prebuilt. Laptop would do too. There are even cheap 2nd hand laptops on sale out there.
This way, you don't have to put effort in, in testing and validating your CPU, GPU and HDD in admin's rig. + Finding compatible replacement parts of any of the dead components.

Life lesson: NEVER cheap out on PSU. Also, never buy used PSU either.
Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.

Aw crap, now the PSU is a suspect for frying either the CPU or the motherboard.

So the conclusion is, either the mobo or the CPU that fried.

About the PSU on admin's and design's rig, they're the same, it's also DA ATX but 550 watts.

Well, it's cheap I admit. Back then, I was desperately need the PSU but way short of money.
Maybe I should return to Seasonic, my former Seasonic PSU last for 7 years (almost 8).

For now the PSU still alive, but I guess you're right, there's no need to risk it.

Since I dabble in DAWs, design, & video editing software, laptop is not an option. Building desktop PC is way cheaper, though this time I'll be careful.

Thanks~

 

[Aeacus]

About the PSU on admin's and design's rig, they're the same, it's also DA ATX but 550 watts.

Didn't you mean to say 240W? Since DA-550 is also 240W unit, like yours is.
Specs: https://digitalalliance.co.id/produk/da-550w-80-bronze/

Maybe I should return to Seasonic, my former Seasonic PSU last for 7 years (almost 8).

Seasonic, for the most part, is solid.

I've used Seasonic PSUs solely since ~2011.
Started out with S12II-520 (best group-regulated PSU ever made). For 2nd PC, got M12II-850 EVO (DC-DC topology). For my new PC build (current Skylake build), i went with PRIME 650 80+ Titanium unit [SSR-650TD] (aka PRIME TX-650). Also upgraded PSU in my 2nd PC, to PRIME Ultra 650 80+ Titanium unit [SSR-650TR] (aka PRIME TX-650). And even my old AMD build got PSU replacement from S12II-520 to Focus+ 550 80+ Platinum [SSR-550PX] (aka Focus PX-550).

My oldest Seasonic unit as of now, is my 1st PRIME unit. Bought it in 2016 and now, 8 years later, it is still going solid. Then again, back then, it was the best 650W PSU money could buy. Also, 12 years of warranty goes a long way.

Fun fact: Only Seasonic Vertex and PRIME series PSUs offer 12 years of warranty. No other PSU OEM/brand offers that much warranty. With other brands (e.g Corsair, Super Flower), max what you get, is 10 years of warranty.

Regarding current Seasonic models lineup;
PRIME series - the best there is. 12 years of warranty.
Vertex series - slightly less than PRIME series. Still, 12 years of warranty as well.
Focus series - good quality PSUs, great for most people. 10 years of warranty. (Note: Focus semi-modular has 7 years of warranty.)
Core series - i don't suggest it usually since it is only good for powering office builds. 7 years of warranty.

B12 and G12 - best to be avoided. Too low of a build quality for proper PC. 5 years of warranty.
A12 series - worse than B12 and G12. 3 years of warranty.
S12III series - never get that. S12III series is a joke and terrible successor to once great S12II series. While 5 years warranty, it isn't made by Seasonic, instead outsourced to RSY.

 

[Alsace]

Didn't you mean to say 240W? Since DA-550 is also 240W unit, like yours is.
Specs: https://digitalalliance.co.id/produk/da-550w-80-bronze/


Seasonic, for the most part, is solid.

I've used Seasonic PSUs solely since ~2011.
Started out with S12II-520 (best group-regulated PSU ever made). For 2nd PC, got M12II-850 EVO (DC-DC topology). For my new PC build (current Skylake build), i went with PRIME 650 80+ Titanium unit [SSR-650TD] (aka PRIME TX-650). Also upgraded PSU in my 2nd PC, to PRIME Ultra 650 80+ Titanium unit [SSR-650TR] (aka PRIME TX-650). And even my old AMD build got PSU replacement from S12II-520 to Focus+ 550 80+ Platinum [SSR-550PX] (aka Focus PX-550).

My oldest Seasonic unit as of now, is my 1st PRIME unit. Bought it in 2016 and now, 8 years later, it is still going solid. Then again, back then, it was the best 650W PSU money could buy. Also, 12 years of warranty goes a long way.

Fun fact: Only Seasonic Vertex and PRIME series PSUs offer 12 years of warranty. No other PSU OEM/brand offers that much warranty. With other brands (e.g Corsair, Super Flower), max what you get, is 10 years of warranty.

Regarding current Seasonic models lineup;
PRIME series - the best there is. 12 years of warranty.
Vertex series - slightly less than PRIME series. Still, 12 years of warranty as well.
Focus series - good quality PSUs, great for most people. 10 years of warranty. (Note: Focus semi-modular has 7 years of warranty.)
Core series - i don't suggest it usually since it is only good for powering office builds. 7 years of warranty.

B12 and G12 - best to be avoided. Too low of a build quality for proper PC. 5 years of warranty.
A12 series - worse than B12 and G12. 3 years of warranty.
S12III series - never get that. S12III series is a joke and terrible successor to once great S12II series. While 5 years warranty, it isn't made by Seasonic, instead outsourced to RSY.

This reminds me of how blind I am when it comes to PSU.

Once again, thank you for the detailed suggestions.

 

[Aeacus]

This reminds me of how blind I am when it comes to PSU.

Sadly, vast majority of people are.
For most people, PSU is just a "box" inside the PC, that doesn't provide any additional FPS (performance) and thus - is best component where to cheap out on.

Those few hardware experts, that know very well the importance of PSUs in any system, are fighting uphill battle to inform the masses about PSUs.

Most people think little, if any, about the PSU they are running. That is, until the PC doesn't turn on anymore. But by that time, it is too late. Low/crap quality PSU, by then, is already dead and quite likely also taken other components with it. And the ~50 bucks saved on PSU, will force anyone to fork out easy 200-300 bucks (if not more), to replace the dead components + new, good quality PSU must be bought as well. Whereby, at the end of the day, it will cost far more, compared to when going with good quality PSU off the bat.
Even the PSU warranty doesn't help, since PSU warranty doesn't cover any other component PSU fried. And even when you RMA the PSU, you'll get the same crap as a replacement.

I get it that not everyone have the budget to fork out 200-300 bucks solely for the PSU (e.g this is how much my Seasonic PRIME TX-650 costs), but there are good choices within 100-150 bucks range as well, that can easily last 10 years (e.g Seasonic Focus). So, there is no excuse of buying 20-50 bucks PSU. But if you can not afford good quality PSU, do not buy that expensive GPU or CPU. Get a weaker CPU/GPU, whereby then you have money for proper PSU.
You can cheap out on every component inside the PC - except PSU.

Everything to do with power delivery is a serious business. There have been even scenarios where crap quality PSU has catched fire and burned down entire home. Even lives have been lost. So, i've said it before, but i'll say it again: NEVER cheap out on PSU! Also, never buy used PSU either, since you have 0 idea what kind of abuse the PSU has seen and if it even operates within safe voltage ranges.

Do you homework. Read reputable PSU reviews.
You can start here: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...pply-discussion-thread-toms-hardware.3212332/
For latest ATX 3.0/3.1 PSUs: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atxv3-pcie5-ready-psus-picks-hardware-busters/