Question PC Shuts down itself when I tried to install Windows ?

Ryflick

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Hey guys, I'd like to ask about my PC. Whenever I tried to boot my PC to my Windows Setup from USB Drive, the PC immediately turns off with no errors, nothing, black screen without any signs of warnings or anything.

Specs :
Processor i5 3470
Motherboard Gigabyte H61M-DS2H Rev 2.2 - BIOS version F10a
RAM 2x4GB SK Hynix 1600MHz
SSD MidasForce 120GB SATA III
HDD Seagate 500GB
GPU XFX RX 470 8GB GDDR5
Zalman ZM600-LX Power Supply 600W
Windows 10 version 21H2

Does anyone know how to fix this? It frustrates me because I tried to change my drive with another one with no luck, re-download and even downloading another version of Windows still also no luck.
Also, I had this weird problem in my PC. When my PC went idle or when I do something even the smallest task the PC hangs about 15-30 seconds, or even until a minute. And it went normal again for few minutes and then it hangs again, is this caused by some OS problem?

Edit :
Whenever I boot into BIOS or Safe Mode Windows, the whole PC went fine with no problems at all, but when I revert back to normal mode the problem occurs. It only happens when I boot into my current Windows (version 21H2).
 
Hey guys, I'd like to ask about my PC. Whenever I tried to boot my PC to my Windows Setup from USB Drive, the PC immediately turns off with no errors, nothing, black screen without any signs of warnings or anything.

Specs :
Processor i5 3470
Motherboard Gigabyte H61M-DS2H Rev 2.2 - BIOS version F10a
RAM 2x4GB SK Hynix 1600MHz
SSD MidasForce 120GB SATA III
HDD Seagate 500GB
GPU XFX RX 470 8GB GDDR5
Zalman ZM600-LX Power Supply 600W
Windows 10 version 21H2

Does anyone know how to fix this? It frustrates me because I tried to change my drive with another one with no luck, re-download and even downloading another version of Windows still also no luck.
Also, I had this weird problem in my PC. When my PC went idle or when I do something even the smallest task the PC hangs about 15-30 seconds, or even until a minute. And it went normal again for few minutes and then it hangs again, is this caused by some OS problem?

Edit :
Whenever I boot into BIOS or Safe Mode Windows, the whole PC went fine with no problems at all, but when I revert back to normal mode the problem occurs. It only happens when I boot into my current Windows (version 21H2).
It could be a mobo issue I doubt that though as it wouldn't normal be affected with safe mode. However it sounds more like a dying psu. Not giving power that's needed safe mode cuts a lot of extra juice out that's not needed because it's only running the bare essentials to run
 

Ryflick

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if that PSU is as old as the rest of the system it probably cant supply they system with enough power anymore.

where are you sourcing the windows 10 download. you should download the media creation tool and create the OS/usb from there. Link
I bought the PSU second-hand. It has been tested with the seller before using Voltage Tester and it shows the voltages are running well with no problems, I might assume the PSU had an issue too, I will try to find another PSU to try later.
I'm sourcing the Windows 10 Pro from 3rd-party .ISO provider, though it claims it is an original MSDN .ISO with valid MD5 hash on it, I don't know the rest either.
 
While a voltage tester may show that voltages are correct, putting the system under load is a hole different game. Electronics wear out over time and will not be able to supply the right voltages or amps.


I would also not trust any third party site to download an .ISO image for your operating system. Follow the link above and download the Create Windows 10 installation media and create an install disc. It will download the latest version from Microsoft and you can ether save it as an .ISO or it will create a bootable USB drive to install from.
 

DSzymborski

Curmudgeon Pursuivant
Moderator
I bought the PSU second-hand. It has been tested with the seller before using Voltage Tester and it shows the voltages are running well with no problems, I might assume the PSU had an issue too, I will try to find another PSU to try later.

That doesn't mean anything, unfortunately. Running with a load is a very different ballgame.

The best way to address this possibility is to remove the GPU completely and run off integrated graphics and try to install Windows.

In all honestly, this is what you should do anyway. This is a horrifyingly low quality PSU, garbage-tier junk manufactured by Hu Cheng a decade ago that's group-regulated and has some absolutely abysmal ripple on crossloads, even by the minimal standards of dirt-cheap group-regulated PSUs.

With a GPU that requires supplementary power, this should never, ever have been used a decade ago when it was new, and certainly not when its a decade old and purchased from a stranger. That your PC might be shutting off is rather fortunate; it may be what's keeping it from destroying your GPU. Hopefully it hasn't already. If you can still return the PSU, I would strongly urge that; the seller should have paid you to take the PSU off their hands.
 
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MilesVW

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Aug 11, 2020
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That is a 4-core, its possible one of them is bad. If there is an option to turn off Multi-Core, see if it boots on one core only. Then you can get Windows installed and use it. Once windows is installed you can edit the boot (run msconfig program)to enable 2 or 3 cores and go back to BIOS and turn it back on. Windows will only use how many you set in the boot config. (Unfortunately Microsoft has started hiding and locking the EFI partition, so it is difficult to edit, maybe use the windows boot CD to edit that file. Shift+F10 and type 'notepad')

Good news, Xeon e3 12xx V2 are very cheap and compatible. 1225v2 is what I have run, they should be around $10. The ones that end in 5 have integrated graphics if you need them (also 1226 has graphics). 1231/1241 etc are faster but no integrated graphics.
 
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Ryflick

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While a voltage tester may show that voltages are correct, putting the system under load is a hole different game. Electronics wear out over time and will not be able to supply the right voltages or amps.


I would also not trust any third party site to download an .ISO image for your operating system. Follow the link above and download the Create Windows 10 installation media and create an install disc. It will download the latest version from Microsoft and you can ether save it as an .ISO or it will create a bootable USB drive to install from.
Thank you, I'll try to re-download a fresh .ISO from Windows Media Creation Tool and see if I can install it on my PC.
 

Ryflick

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That doesn't mean anything, unfortunately. Running with a load is a very different ballgame.

The best way to address this possibility is to remove the GPU completely and run off integrated graphics and try to install Windows.

In all honestly, this is what you should do anyway. This is a horrifyingly low quality PSU, garbage-tier junk manufactured by Hu Cheng a decade ago that's group-regulated and has some absolutely abysmal ripple on crossloads, even by the minimal standards of dirt-cheap group-regulated PSUs.

With a GPU that requires supplementary power, this should never, ever have been used a decade ago when it was new, and certainly not when its a decade old and purchased from a stranger. That your PC might be shutting off is rather fortunate; it may be what's keeping it from destroying your GPU. Hopefully it hasn't already. If you can still return the PSU, I would strongly urge that; the seller should have paid you to take the PSU off their hands.
Unfortunately the only thing I can afford for a moment is that PSU, I might try to remove the GPU and using Integrated Graphics but I need to buy a D-Sub/VGA cable first (because my monitor only have DVI & VGA).

Thank you, will try to save up money to buy decent PSU.
 

Ryflick

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That is a 4-core, its possible one of them is bad. If there is an option to turn off Multi-Core, see if it boots on one core only. Then you can get Windows installed and use it. Once windows is installed you can edit the boot (run msconfig program)to enable 2 or 3 cores and go back to BIOS and turn it back on. Windows will only use how many you set in the boot config. (Unfortunately Microsoft has started hiding and locking the EFI partition, so it is difficult to edit, maybe use the windows boot CD to edit that file. Shift+F10 and type 'notepad')

Good news, Xeon e3 12xx V2 are very cheap and compatible. 1225v2 is what I have run, they should be around $10. The ones that end in 5 have integrated graphics if you need them (also 1226 has graphics). 1231/1241 etc are faster but no integrated graphics.
I will check the boot config in BIOS and set single-core to boot and try again, thank you.
 

DSzymborski

Curmudgeon Pursuivant
Moderator
Unfortunately the only thing I can afford for a moment is that PSU, I might try to remove the GPU and using Integrated Graphics but I need to buy a D-Sub/VGA cable first (because my monitor only have DVI & VGA).

Thank you, will try to save up money to buy decent PSU.

Well, you ought to *definitely* remove the GPU instead of "might" unless you simply don't care about the GPU being fried.

You made a poor decision to purchase this PSU. Now, you need to limit your losses and reduce your chances at having the replace the GPU (if it hasn't already been destroyed by a failing, junk-tier PSU).
 

Ryflick

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Well, you ought to *definitely* remove the GPU instead of "might" unless you simply don't care about the GPU being fried.

You made a poor decision to purchase this PSU. Now, you need to limit your losses and reduce your chances at having the replace the GPU (if it hasn't already been destroyed by a failing, junk-tier PSU).
Well sorry, I don't have that much money to fix my PC and I have few works to be done in an urgent matter, hence why I bought second-hand PSU for $16 (I'm in Indonesia, roughly around 250K IDR)
 
D

Deleted member 2947362

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I will check the boot config in BIOS and set single-core to boot and try again, thank you.

This might help you decide what you need at a fair price.

 
D

Deleted member 2947362

Guest
Well, you ought to *definitely* remove the GPU instead of "might" unless you simply don't care about the GPU being fried.

You made a poor decision to purchase this PSU. Now, you need to limit your losses and reduce your chances at having the replace the GPU (if it hasn't already been destroyed by a failing, junk-tier PSU).
Bit Harsh LOL
 

DSzymborski

Curmudgeon Pursuivant
Moderator
Well sorry, I don't have that much money to fix my PC and I have few works to be done in an urgent matter, hence why I bought second-hand PSU for $16 (I'm in Indonesia, roughly around 250K IDR)
Your work requires use of the GPU?

Bit Harsh LOL

We try around here to prevent people from destroying their components. A junk *used* PSU is bad news with a GPU, especially when there have already been visible problems.
 
D

Deleted member 2947362

Guest
We try around here to prevent people from destroying their components. A junk *used* PSU is bad news with a GPU, especially when there have already been visible problems.
I wasn't disputing that at all :unsure:

It's just the approach that made me :LOL:
 

DSzymborski

Curmudgeon Pursuivant
Moderator
I wasn't disputing that at all :unsure:

It's just the approach that made me :LOL:

I believe it's better to give people good advice in a blunt way to make it clear than make it foggy and uncertain, leaving them an opening to talk themselves into doing something that they'll regret.

If the OP still wishes to use his GPU with a possibly dangerous PSU, he should at least know going in that this is serious, and not a "well, it's not great, but it's kinda OK, and you could luck out" thing.
 

Ryflick

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Jun 23, 2019
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Your work requires use of the GPU?



We try around here to prevent people from destroying their components. A junk *used* PSU is bad news with a GPU, especially when there have already been visible problems.
Yes, I do some video editing and also audio mixing. That's why I had deadline due on today, thankfully I can finish it bit by bit.
 

Karadjgne

Titan
Ambassador
Edit :
Whenever I boot into BIOS or Safe Mode Windows, the whole PC went fine with no problems at all, but when I revert back to normal mode the problem occurs. It only happens when I boot into my current Windows (version 21H2).
That's the issue. It'll boot into Safe Mode, therefore there's a corrupted/missing driver or service..

Boot into safe mode, then use start button to open a Command line with Administration privilege. Then type in (don't forget the spaces)
dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth windows (your version number, 10 or 11 etc)