Question PC Shuts itself down when idled


Dec 3, 2017
I haven't been able to phrase this well enough for a solution to be found through a google search so I was hoping someone would be able to help me from here.

It has been confusing me for quite some time now and I still don't understand.. my PC will shut down after I've left it idle for some time. I understand this sounds pretty normal to begin with, only that it is turning off after different amounts of time has passed, and all before hibernation time. My power settings are to turn off the display after 30 minutes, sleep the PC after 45 minutes and it should hibernate after 240 minutes but I often come back to my PC to find it has turned itself completely off after just an hour and when it does turn itself off its not like it was in hibernation because when I boot it back up, every program is closed and it is as if it was fully shut down. For examples, today my PC turned itself off after about 2 hours of idling and yesterday it turned itself off after less than 1 hour, of course both of these instances happened long before the 240 minute hibernation mark.

Hardware Components
CPU: 11th Gen Intel Core i7-11700F @ 2.50GHz, 2469 MHz
Motherboard: Acer Predator PO3-630
Power Supply: Unfortunately unable to get this information without removing it completely from the PC case as for some reason the sticker is covered :neutral:
Memory: 16GB (2/4 slots used) - 3200 MHz
Graphics Card:
4095MB NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070
Storage: main (OS installed): WDC PC SN530 SDBPNPZ-512G-1114 (SSD) second: TOSHIBA DT01ACA100
Windows: 10 Home, 10.0.19044 Build 19044
BIOS Version: American Megatrends Inc. R01-A1

My PC has fairly high grade components and I don't do anything too resource heavy so I highly doubt it is a case of overheating or crashing or anything along those lines.
This is not so much an issue for me, it never impedes my work or even causes any problems for me. It is more of a wth is going on situation ahah.

Thanks in advance for any advice/ideas given, much appreciated :)
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Dec 3, 2017
Full hardware specifications? Please include EXACT model numbers of each component or kit if at ALL possible.

Power supply
Memory kit
Graphics card
Storage devices
Windows version and build version
Currently installed BIOS version
My apologies! I've added this information in now. Hopefully it suffices.
We are dealing with a PC that shuts itself down. We MUST have the exact power supply information. You do NOT need to completely remove it from the case. ALL you need to do is shut down, flip the switch off on the back of the PSU. Unplug the power cable from the PSU. Remove the four screws holding the PSU to the case and then gently move the PSU to a position where you can see the other side of the PSU without having to unplug any of the cables. If you are not able to see the sticker after doing this, then you will simply want to unplug whatever cables are necessary in order to do so.

There is literally no way of even beginning to try and figure out what the heck is going on without having a clear idea of what PSU model we are dealing with and additionally it would be REALLY helpful to have some idea of how long this PSU has been in service. If you are the only person who has ever owned this PSU and it was either installed by you or was preinstalled in a prebuilt system and you've owned it for five years, then it is five years old. If it WAS a prebuilt system of some kind, it would be very helpful to also know the model of that prebuilt system as well.

I am assuming since it is an Acer motherboard that it WAS a prebuilt system, and I'm going to further assume that it is very probable that it came with a notably cheap crappy power supply, because the vast majority of these prebuilt systems do. But not all of them, which is why knowing the manufacturer model for your prebuilt would be helpful.


Jan 11, 2018
While providing info upfront is important, if you guys looked up the specs you'd know it in less than 5 minutes (how long it took me).

The MB; Acer Predator PO3-630 pulls up an Acer Predator Orion 3000.

The typical PSU for it according to multiple Ebay posts is a LiteON 500w repainted pa-4501-1ac

While not inherently bad LiteON was average 15 years ago, can't imagine they are any better today.

Have you used something like HWInfo to check your voltages or looked at Event Viewer to see if anything is showing there?
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And that is good info, but it is also making an assumption that we generally try to avoid making, which is assuming anything has anything in it based on what somebody else has in theirs when we know damn well it could have anything in there since that is a standard ATX power supply and the original one, as you noted, is a complete piece of crap, and may well have been replaced at some point especially if this person bought the machine from a previous owner. Perhaps even if they did not, although I guess we could assume if that were the case they'd have simply TOLD us they had previously replaced it at some point so it's VERY likely that IS what is in there, but it would also be nice to verify it first.

If however the unit that is in there LOOKS just like the one you linked to, I think we could very well assume that it IS the same unit and is most probably the problem.