[SOLVED] Pc shutting down. CPU overheating at 85C°.

Mar 10, 2019
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My Pc shuts down after 10-30min of playing a cpu-heavy game. This was the first time since many months.
Usually my PC overheats after a 10 hour play session in a room with 30C° but this time it went way too fast.
I tried cleaning the PC but it still overheated.

The Thermal paste on the CPU: View: https://imgur.com/a/yaCP7z3


CPU: Six-Core AMD FX-6300 6x3.5GHz
Mainboard: AMD Sockel AM3+
Power Cable: 420 Watt
It is not on overcloacking and has balanced power usage.

I tried to use Prime95 but after 10-15min my Pc went dead after reaching 85C°

Also I noticed that my Pc has big spikes a.e right now he is at nice 40C° but sometimes he is at 60C° while the task im doing didn't change and sometimes he goes up to 77C° just like that.
 
Solution
There are many threads on this, and while that board's product page says it supports FX processors, nothing higher than an FX-4350 is listed on the CPU support page. You need a different motherboard that is capable of supporting that CPU correctly. Nothing else is going to cure your problem until you do that.

https://www.asrock.com/mb/NVIDIA/N68C-GS4 FX/?cat=CPU#CPU


You need to find one of these motherboards, new or used, and change. That's a really weird, off the beaten path chipset as well which had limited release and was fairly uncommon. It was never good even for the CPUs that it DID support, and always had thermal issues due to the very poor quality of the 4+1 VRM configuration and power delivery.


(Be sure to check...
You thermal paste "pattern" is completely wrong. So that's one problem.​

Are you using the stock cooler?

What is the EXACT motherboard model number?

How many case fans do you have, where are they located and how are they oriented (Intake=air into case, Exhaust=blowing out of case)?

You don't need the "balanced" power plan. That and power saving are intended more for mobile devices and laptops. Change the plan to performance. Then click next to the plan where it says "change plan settings". Next, click where it says change advanced power options. Then, scroll down to processor power management and change the minimum to 8% and leave the maximum at 100%. Make sure the cooling profile there is set to active.

Save settings and exit the advanced power options.

Restart and go into the BIOS. Find the settings for AMD Cool N' Quiet and make sure it is ENABLED. If it is not, enable it. Save settings and exit BIOS.

All of which needs to be done, obviously, after you re-mount the CPU cooler. If this is a stock cooler you want to use a blob about half the size of a dime, dead center, because the stock coolers are low mounting pressure. If it is a high mounting pressure aftermarket cooler which uses a different backplate and mounting system (And does not use the stock mounting hardware, clips, etc.), they you want to use a blob about the size of two large grains of rice, dead center on the CPU lid.

These instructions were intended for help with the Hyper 212 EVO, but you will find pasting instructions there which should be helpful in eliminating pasting techniques which are not recommended.

Prior to establishing the mounting pressure you'll need to have already applied your thermal paste and although opinions regarding the correct amount vary as widely as you can imagine, the old adage about opinions being like a very distinctly distasteful body part would certainly seem to apply here. Everything from five very small dots to slathering it on with a credit card, using a pea sized dollop, the three line method and possibly anything else up to and including drawing a smiley face have been not only mentioned in various circles but almost certainly tried in reality as well.

-Some methods "Recommended" around the web-


1zfhjl2.jpg





-The likely, but undesirable results of those methods-


2m5le92.jpg



I don't recommend any of those, and to clarify, I'm not claiming to be an authority or trying to indicate there is no other way but mine, but it is one that has worked on literally hundreds of builds over the years without issue.

I personally prescribe to the uncooked rice grain sized application when using any of the commonly available pastes that come in a tube applicator like the Arctic Silver 5 or most of the included pastes that come with premium coolers. If you are using a stock, low pressure mounting system type cooler like those which use the stock mounting hardware and backplate, you will want to probably use double the amount of thermal interface material (paste) because the low pressure will not effectively force the paste outward from the center point nearly as much as aftermarket high mounting pressure coolers do.

I've never had excess paste squeeze from between the CPU lid and heatsink using this method nor had an issue with inadequate cooling due to any lack of sufficient TIM. You can make your own decision on what works best for you. Depending on the cooler, a very small snow pea sized dab will work well too, so long as you don't get carried away or misconstrue the definition of snow pea. For our purposes, perhaps a dab about 1/3 the size of a number 2 pencil eraser is a better description.




-More promising methods-

o086c9.jpg





-Probable results-


33d9k6u.jpg

27ya137.jpg





Notice that even with this method there is substantial filling of the heat pipe seams. It is NOT necessary to lay multiple lines along seams.



Nearly every novice builder thinks more will be better, until they learn for themselves how wrong that way of thinking truly is. The paste is only there to provide a thermal interface between the metal of the cpu lid and the base of the heatsink. It's only job is to bridge any convex or concave tendencies of the lid or heatsink base and to fill microscopic pores in either surface.

It's not there as a magic cooling pad and it's use would actually be entirely unnecessary were both surfaces to be completely flat and non-porous. But since that is unlikely, a thermal interface material is required.


(As home mechanics, handymen, tinkerers and especially with guys in general, we tend to want to always do a little extra. An extra turn on that bolt, which causes it to break. An extra half gallon in the gas tank, which overflows and slowly eats your paint away.


The list goes on but in this instance you'll want to to avoid the inclination to add any "extra" or "just a little bit more" when applying the paste. One small strip in the dead center, the size of a large cooked grain of rice or two small uncooked grains of rice at most, dead center, is plenty to fill the needed areas when the heatsink is tightened to the correct specifications using the recommended tightening procedure.)
 
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You thermal paste "pattern" is completely wrong. So that's one problem.​

Are you using the stock cooler?

What is the EXACT motherboard model number?

How many case fans do you have, where are they located and how are they oriented (Intake=air into case, Exhaust=blowing out of case)?

You don't need the "balanced" power plan. That and power saving are intended more for mobile devices and laptops. Change the plan to performance. Then click next to the plan where it says "change plan settings". Next, click where it says change advanced power options. Then, scroll down to processor power management and change the minimum to 8% and leave the maximum at 100%. Make sure the cooling profile there is set to active.

Save settings and exit the advanced power options.

Restart and go into the BIOS. Find the settings for AMD Cool N' Quiet and make sure it is ENABLED. If it is not, enable it. Save settings and exit BIOS.

All of which needs to be done, obviously, after you re-mount the CPU cooler. If this is a stock cooler you want to use a blob about half the size of a dime, dead center, because the stock coolers are low mounting pressure. If it is a high mounting pressure aftermarket cooler which uses a different backplate and mounting system (And does not use the stock mounting hardware, clips, etc.), they you want to use a blob about the size of two large grains of rice, dead center on the CPU lid.

These instructions were intended for help with the Hyper 212 EVO, but you will find pasting instructions there which should be helpful in eliminating pasting techniques which are not recommended.

Prior to establishing the mounting pressure you'll need to have already applied your thermal paste and although opinions regarding the correct amount vary as widely as you can imagine, the old adage about opinions being like a very distinctly distasteful body part would certainly seem to apply here. Everything from five very small dots to slathering it on with a credit card, using a pea sized dollop, the three line method and possibly anything else up to and including drawing a smiley face have been not only mentioned in various circles but almost certainly tried in reality as well.

-Some methods "Recommended" around the web-


1zfhjl2.jpg





-The likely, but undesirable results of those methods-


2m5le92.jpg



I don't recommend any of those, and to clarify, I'm not claiming to be an authority or trying to indicate there is no other way but mine, but it is one that has worked on literally hundreds of builds over the years without issue.

I personally prescribe to the uncooked rice grain sized application when using any of the commonly available pastes that come in a tube applicator like the Arctic Silver 5 or most of the included pastes that come with premium coolers. If you are using a stock, low pressure mounting system type cooler like those which use the stock mounting hardware and backplate, you will want to probably use double the amount of thermal interface material (paste) because the low pressure will not effectively force the paste outward from the center point nearly as much as aftermarket high mounting pressure coolers do.

I've never had excess paste squeeze from between the CPU lid and heatsink using this method nor had an issue with inadequate cooling due to any lack of sufficient TIM. You can make your own decision on what works best for you. Depending on the cooler, a very small snow pea sized dab will work well too, so long as you don't get carried away or misconstrue the definition of snow pea. For our purposes, perhaps a dab about 1/3 the size of a number 2 pencil eraser is a better description.




-More promising methods-

o086c9.jpg





-Probable results-


33d9k6u.jpg

27ya137.jpg





Notice that even with this method there is substantial filling of the heat pipe seams. It is NOT necessary to lay multiple lines along seams.



Nearly every novice builder thinks more will be better, until they learn for themselves how wrong that way of thinking truly is. The paste is only there to provide a thermal interface between the metal of the cpu lid and the base of the heatsink. It's only job is to bridge any convex or concave tendencies of the lid or heatsink base and to fill microscopic pores in either surface.

It's not there as a magic cooling pad and it's use would actually be entirely unnecessary were both surfaces to be completely flat and non-porous. But since that is unlikely, a thermal interface material is required.


(As home mechanics, handymen, tinkerers and especially with guys in general, we tend to want to always do a little extra. An extra turn on that bolt, which causes it to break. An extra half gallon in the gas tank, which overflows and slowly eats your paint away.


The list goes on but in this instance you'll want to to avoid the inclination to add any "extra" or "just a little bit more" when applying the paste. One small strip in the dead center, the size of a large cooked grain of rice or two small uncooked grains of rice at most, dead center, is plenty to fill the needed areas when the heatsink is tightened to the correct specifications using the recommended tightening procedure.)
I have the AsRock N68-GS4/USB3 FX motherboard.
I have a stock cooler, yes.
One fan blows air in, one blows air out and the graphic card and cpu fans blow air away from their hardware.
The Fan blowing air in is on the front, the one blowing air out is at the back.
 
There are many threads on this, and while that board's product page says it supports FX processors, nothing higher than an FX-4350 is listed on the CPU support page. You need a different motherboard that is capable of supporting that CPU correctly. Nothing else is going to cure your problem until you do that.

https://www.asrock.com/mb/NVIDIA/N68C-GS4 FX/?cat=CPU#CPU


You need to find one of these motherboards, new or used, and change. That's a really weird, off the beaten path chipset as well which had limited release and was fairly uncommon. It was never good even for the CPUs that it DID support, and always had thermal issues due to the very poor quality of the 4+1 VRM configuration and power delivery.


(Be sure to check when looking for a motherboard that any of the models shown below are either 990fx, 990 or 970 chipsets. A Z170 Extreme6 for example, is not going to work with your FX processor, so, in this example, you want to look for the 990/990fx Extreme6.)

GA-990FXA-UD7
Extreme6
Extreme9
Fatal1ty 990FX Professional
Crosshair V Formula-Z
Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
GA-99FXA-UD5
MSI GD80V2
M5A99FX PRO R2.0
GA-99FXA-UD3
MSI GD65V2
990FX Killer
Extreme4
M5A99X EVO (R2.0 as well)
GA-990XA-UD3
990XA-GD55
GA-970A-UD3P
M5A97 or EVO or PRO (R.2 as well)
GA-970A-UD3
970 GAMING
970A SLI Krait (USB 3.1 supported)
 
Solution
There are many threads on this, and while that board's product page says it supports FX processors, nothing higher than an FX-4350 is listed on the CPU support page. You need a different motherboard that is capable of supporting that CPU correctly. Nothing else is going to cure your problem until you do that.

https://www.asrock.com/mb/NVIDIA/N68C-GS4 FX/?cat=CPU#CPU


You need to find one of these motherboards, new or used, and change. That's a really weird, off the beaten path chipset as well which had limited release and was fairly uncommon. It was never good even for the CPUs that it DID support, and always had thermal issues due to the very poor quality of the 4+1 VRM configuration and power delivery.


(Be sure to check when looking for a motherboard that any of the models shown below are either 990fx, 990 or 970 chipsets. A Z170 Extreme6 for example, is not going to work with your FX processor, so, in this example, you want to look for the 990/990fx Extreme6.)

GA-990FXA-UD7
Extreme6
Extreme9
Fatal1ty 990FX Professional
Crosshair V Formula-Z
Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
GA-99FXA-UD5
MSI GD80V2
M5A99FX PRO R2.0
GA-99FXA-UD3
MSI GD65V2
990FX Killer
Extreme4
M5A99X EVO (R2.0 as well)
GA-990XA-UD3
990XA-GD55
GA-970A-UD3P
M5A97 or EVO or PRO (R.2 as well)
GA-970A-UD3
970 GAMING
970A SLI Krait (USB 3.1 supported)
What I find strange is that it worked for 3 years and suddenly not anymore?
How could that be?Is it still poissible that the lone cause is the thermal paste?
 
It's not strange at all.

Usually my PC overheats after a 10 hour play session in a room with 30C° but this time it went way too fast.

You've been using a motherboard with poor thermal qualities and weak VRMs, as well as a TERRIBLE, HORRIFICALLY bad low quality power supply that has probably been bombarding the motherboard capacitors and VRMs with high levels of ripple, noise and wild voltage fluctuations, for three years now, PLUS continuously overheating the system until it finally can't take it anymore. I wouldn't be terribly surprised to find that the CPU has thermal fatigue as well.

There's a reason your CPU model isn't on the support list for that motherboard and it isn't because it doesn't support the chipset needed to run that CPU, because it does. It is simply NOT good enough for the thermal and power requirements (TDP - Thermal design power) of that processor due to poor quality design and component selection/inclusion on that model of board. It's no different than the hundreds of folks who've run cheap motherboard after cheap motherboard into the ground using FX 9 series CPUs that cook the VRMs in a matter of hours, if they run at all. Well, it's a little different, but it's only varying levels of the same principle.

That being said, it might be worth trying to clean both the heatsink and CPU heat spreader, and apply a quality paste in the manner indicated above, making sure that the heatsink mount is even and firm all the way around and that the mounting bracket to backplate fasteners are not loose before mounting the CPU heatsink fan assembly. I wouldn't assume that's going to fix the issue, but it's certainly worth trying since it's a rather inexpensive possibility.
 
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It's not strange at all.



You've been using a motherboard with poor thermal qualities and weak VRMs, as well as a TERRIBLE, HORRIFICALLY bad low quality power supply that has probably been bombarding the motherboard capacitors and VRMs with high levels of ripple, noise and wild voltage fluctuations, for three years now, PLUS continuously overheating the system until it finally can't take it anymore. I wouldn't be terribly surprised to find that the CPU has thermal fatigue as well.

There's a reason your CPU model isn't on the support list for that motherboard and it isn't because it doesn't support the chipset needed to run that CPU, because it does. It is simply NOT good enough for the thermal and power requirements (TDP - Thermal design power) of that processor due to poor quality design and component selection/inclusion on that model of board. It's no different than the hundreds of folks who've run cheap motherboard after cheap motherboard into the ground using FX 9 series CPUs that cook the VRMs in a matter of hours, if they run at all. Well, it's a little different, but it's only varying levels of the same principle.

That being said, it might be worth trying to clean both the heatsink and CPU heat spreader, and apply a quality paste in the manner indicated above, making sure that the heatsink mount is even and firm all the way around and that the mounting bracket to backplate fasteners are not loose before mounting the CPU heatsink fan assembly. I wouldn't assume that's going to fix the issue, but it's certainly worth trying since it's a rather inexpensive possibility.
Rather offtopic, could it be that my motherboard has such a developed fatique that it doesn't recognise my speakers anymore?
Edit: You listed a lot of motherboards. Is there anything I should consider, besides price, a.e whether it works with the rest of my hardware etc.
 
990fx series boards should be at the top of the list in terms of features, quality and thermal capability, if they are a model I listed. 970 series if you have to.

Aside from that, they are all AM3+ chipsets and support anything from FX-4300 to FX-9370. FX-9590 should never be used anyhow because they are notorious voltage leakers and there are really no motherboards or cooling that can fix the problems that CPU has. Some will argue until they are blue in the face, but at the end the only thing that will change is that their face is blue.

For your CPU, any of those boards is good enough. If you want the MOST recent features available on an AM3+ board, you probably want to try to find one of these, that has PCIe 3.0 slots (Which MOST AM3+ boards do NOT have.) or another 990fx or 970 board that DOES have it. Not just FOR the PCIe 3.0, although that might be beneficial as well, but because that means it will be one of the boards that was released shortly before the Ryzen platform came out and will also have some other features not found on other AM3+ boards which are older.

Honestly, unless you can find a deal on a good used board that is trustworthy, you are far better off putting that money towards a newer CPU, motherboard and DDR4 memory, but of course that's up to you and might be dictated by your financial situation too.
 
Rather offtopic, could it be that my motherboard has such a developed fatique that it doesn't recognise my speakers anymore?
990fx series boards should be at the top of the list in terms of features, quality and thermal capability, if they are a model I listed. 970 series if you have to.

Aside from that, they are all AM3+ chipsets and support anything from FX-4300 to FX-9370. FX-9590 should never be used anyhow because they are notorious voltage leakers and there are really no motherboards or cooling that can fix the problems that CPU has. Some will argue until they are blue in the face, but at the end the only thing that will change is that their face is blue.

For your CPU, any of those boards is good enough. If you want the MOST recent features available on an AM3+ board, you probably want to try to find one of these, that has PCIe 3.0 slots (Which MOST AM3+ boards do NOT have.) or another 990fx or 970 board that DOES have it. Not just FOR the PCIe 3.0, although that might be beneficial as well, but because that means it will be one of the boards that was released shortly before the Ryzen platform came out and will also have some other features not found on other AM3+ boards which are older.

Honestly, unless you can find a deal on a good used board that is trustworthy, you are far better off putting that money towards a newer CPU, motherboard and DDR4 memory, but of course that's up to you and might be dictated by your financial situation too.
Im really thankful for your help.
First, I try it with the thermal paste because it is the cheapest option and if doesn't work I just live with it for now because Im already saving for new PC.
 

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