PC Shutting Down Without Warning

[Aprice90]

I've had this PC for I would want to say about 5 years now and it's a IBUYPOWER PC I bought from Walmart because I lack the experience of building my own. After 3 months of owning it the PC turned off and wouldn't turn back on. I had to ship it back and cash in my warranty which they didn't send me a new PC they just "Fixed" it. Shipped it back and then after about 2 years the PC would turn off and I could turn it back on but it would turn off randomly without warning. Sometimes after 10 seconds of turning back on and sometimes after 30 minutes. However after turning it on and off about 30 -50 times back to back eventually it would work without any problems for months on end but when it shuts off on me it keeps giving me a problem for hours on end until it finally makes a break through. So I'm thinking it's my PSU however I'm not sure.

Motherboard:
MSI X58 Pro-e
Version 3.0
Vender: Intel

Voltage:
+3.3V - 3.376 V
CPU CORE 0.928 V
+5V - 4.961 V
+12V - 12.584 V

PSU: Coonix Model No: COPS-800
AC INPUT: 100-240V/50-60hz
DC OUTPUT: 3.3+ ....+5V....+12V1.....+12V2
MAX Current: 20A........20A.....26A.....26A
Maximum Combined wattage: 800 W


Intel Core i7 960 @3.2ghz
4 Cores
8 threads
Socket 1366 LGA
Technology : 45mm

NVIDIA GTX 6700
Memory: 4095MB

2 TB Hard drive

12 GB of DDR3
6 slots all 6 slots used

I use 7 USB ports on my computer

Mouse, Keyboard, Logitech c920 webcam, Blue Yetti Microphone, Astro a40 headset/mixamp, Elgato capture card, Speakers

I hope you can help me out as I work from home and my PC is everything.

 

[boosted1g]

Well the PSU is a noname brand power supply so that is a red flag there.

When you it shuts down do you mean windows shuts down and logs you out or do you mean the entire PC looses power in a split second and then reboots? These are two very different situations

 

[13thmonkey]

That PSU is massive massive overkill for that system, which leads me to think that it was a cheap cheap component that they put in for the marketing numbers (and perhaps the hope that it would work for a while).

You aren't alone with issues:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=COPS-800&oq=COPS-800&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8#q=COPS-800+coonix

It's not really possible to test what the PSU is outputting with a multimeter, and if you had one you'd have already done it.

Given the loose evidence above i'd just replace it with a decent 600W PSU, at least you'll know it's not a concern.

 

[Aprice90]

Well the PSU is a noname brand power supply so that is a red flag there.

When you it shuts down do you mean windows shuts down and logs you out or do you mean the entire PC looses power in a split second and then reboots? These are two very different situations

I mean that it just loses power with a blink of a eye and doesn't reboot unless I hit the power button.

 

[Aprice90]

That PSU is massive massive overkill for that system, which leads me to think that it was a cheap cheap component that they put in for the marketing numbers (and perhaps the hope that it would work for a while).

You aren't alone with issues:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=COPS-800&oq=COPS-800&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8#q=COPS-800+coonix

It's not really possible to test what the PSU is outputting with a multimeter, and if you had one you'd have already done it.

Given the loose evidence above i'd just replace it with a decent 600W PSU, at least you'll know it's not a concern.

Do you think 600W is enough as Nvidia suggest to have atleat a 500W to run the GTX 670 and I do a lot of video editing and things on the computer that involve a lot of juice.

 

[ko888]

That PSU is massive massive overkill for that system, which leads me to think that it was a cheap cheap component that they put in for the marketing numbers (and perhaps the hope that it would work for a while).

You aren't alone with issues:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=COPS-800&oq=COPS-800&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8#q=COPS-800+coonix

It's not really possible to test what the PSU is outputting with a multimeter, and if you had one you'd have already done it.

Given the loose evidence above i'd just replace it with a decent 600W PSU, at least you'll know it's not a concern.

Do you think 600W is enough as Nvidia suggest to have atleat a 500W to run the GTX 670 and I do a lot of video editing and things on the computer that involve a lot of juice.

For a system using a single GeForce GTX 670 graphics card NVIDIA specifies a minimum of a 500 Watt or greater system power supply that has a maximum combined +12 Volt continuous current rating of 30 Amps or greater and that has at least two 6-pin PCI Express supplementary power connectors. (Minimum system power requirement based on a PC configured with an Intel Core i7 3.2GHz 130 Watt TDP processor.)

Total Power Supply Wattage is NOT the crucial factor in power supply selection!!! Sufficient Total Combined Continuous Power/Current Available on the +12V Rail(s) is the most critical factor.

Overclocking of the CPU and/or GPU(s) may require an additional increase to the maximum combined +12 Volt continuous current ratings, recommended above, to meet the increase in power required for the overclock. The additional amount required will depend on the magnitude of the overclock being attempted.

Notice that Coonix never specifies the maximum combined +12 Volt continuous current rating of the COPS-800. They're trying to hide something.

 

[13thmonkey]

^+1, it's not a recommendation of 500W just for the GPU, but for the system with that GPU in it. A decent PSU will do this, give us a shop and a budget and we'll suggest one.

 

[Aprice90]

^+1, it's not a recommendation of 500W just for the GPU, but for the system with that GPU in it. A decent PSU will do this, give us a shop and a budget and we'll suggest one.

I feel like you can find a good 600W PSU from amazon for $50-$100 point me in the right direction and I'll buy it. I just hope I can figure out how to install it lol.

 

[13thmonkey]

http://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-M12II-620-BRONZE-SS-620GM2/dp/B003HE260I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422307909&sr=8-1&keywords=seasonic+620

 

[Aprice90]

http://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-M12II-620-BRONZE-SS-620GM2/dp/B003HE260I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422307909&sr=8-1&keywords=seasonic+620

Thanks man I appreciate it, do you think it's the right size?

 

[13thmonkey]

there are very few extra large ones, and they are all above 1KW, so this is normal size for the PSU. In terms of electrically it'll be fine.

It'll do 576W on the 12V lines, which equates to 48 amps.
http://www.seasonicusa.com/M12II-Bronze.htm

 

[Aprice90]

there are very few extra large ones, and they are all above 1KW, so this is normal size for the PSU. In terms of electrically it'll be fine.

It'll do 576W on the 12V lines, which equates to 48 amps.
http://www.seasonicusa.com/M12II-Bronze.htm

Thanks man you have been a lot of help! Is there possibly any PSU you can snag for me on Amazon around the same price range that's available for purchase today rather than the 30th? However if this is the best one then I suppose I'll wait but perhaps there are other top brands you trust that will do provide the same quality.

 

[ko888]

http://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-M12II-620-BRONZE-SS-620GM2/dp/B003HE260I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422307909&sr=8-1&keywords=seasonic+620

Thanks man I appreciate it, do you think it's the right size?

It adheres to the PS/2 form factor just like the Coonix COPS-800.

 

[13thmonkey]

seasonic are my go-to brand, just search for seasonic 620, and it'll give you a few more choices from other vendors, the M's are modular (the cables can be fitted as required, just please don't lose them), the S's have fixed cables, so hiding the spare cables can be tricky.

 

[ko888]

XFX 650W TS SERIES FULL WIRED 80+ BRONZE
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045L5LGI/?tag=pcpapi-20

All of XFX's PSUs use Seasonic as the ODM/OEM.

 

[Aprice90]

XFX 650W TS SERIES FULL WIRED 80+ BRONZE
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045L5LGI/?tag=pcpapi-20

All of XFX's PSUs use Seasonic as the ODM/OEM.

Thanks! I just bought it from Tigerdirect for $39.99 after a $30 rebate. Got it dirt cheap!

 

[13thmonkey]

there's never any need to skimp on a supply, fingers crossed it's the issue.

 

[Aprice90]

there's never any need to skimp on a supply, fingers crossed it's the issue.

I didn't skimp on it I actually bought a more expensive PSU than the $50 model you suggested to me it just so happened to be really cheap at tigerdirect. So just doing a little bargain shopping is all. However, I got a question. My friend told me it could perhaps be the cmos battery. What do you think? I wouldn't think the CMOS battery would cause repetitive shutdowns without notice but then again I'm not an expert.

 

[13thmonkey]

I was trying to say that there is never any need to to skimp on quality as you can always find some decent on offer somewhere, vs the $15 units.

 

[Aprice90]

I was trying to say that there is never any need to to skimp on quality as you can always find some decent on offer somewhere, vs the $15 units.

So I just installed the new PSU that just came in and when I tried to boot up windows its telling me

"Please select the boot device:"

CD/DVD : HL-DT-ST BD-RE UH12LS28

"Use the UP and Down keys to select which entry is highlighted. Press enter to boot the selected device."

When I hit enter it tells me there isn't a bootable device and to press any key to go back to the previous screen... So I'm assuming it's not detecting my hard drive which I plugged the SATA cable into... Any ideas on how to help me out with this as this wasn't a problem before I took out my old PSU

 

[Aprice90]

XFX 650W TS SERIES FULL WIRED 80+ BRONZE
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045L5LGI/?tag=pcpapi-20

All of XFX's PSUs use Seasonic as the ODM/OEM.

So I just installed the new PSU that just came in and when I tried to boot up windows its telling me

"Please select the boot device:"

CD/DVD : HL-DT-ST BD-RE UH12LS28

"Use the UP and Down keys to select which entry is highlighted. Press enter to boot the selected device."

When I hit enter it tells me there isn't a bootable device and to press any key to go back to the previous screen... So I'm assuming it's not detecting my hard drive which I plugged the SATA cable into... Any ideas on how to help me out with this as this wasn't a problem before I took out my old PSU

 

[Aprice90]

I guess the PSU wasn't the problem because it's still turning off on me.

 

[boosted1g]

Make sure the power cable is plugged in good to the hard drive if it is not detecting the hard drive (check sata cable as well)

What did you replace the PSU with?

 

[Aprice90]

Make sure the power cable is plugged in good to the hard drive if it is not detecting the hard drive (check sata cable as well)

What did you replace the PSU with?

I fixed the bootable drive problem by loading BIOS and setting my Hitachi HD as the priority drive to boot from as for some reason it had my DVD drive as the go to drive to boot windows from. As for what PSU I replaced my shitty 800w Coonix with I just installed this

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045L5LGI/?tag=pcpapi-20

yet it still is shutting off over and over again never stays on longer than 5 minutes.

 

[Aprice90]

Make sure the power cable is plugged in good to the hard drive if it is not detecting the hard drive (check sata cable as well)

What did you replace the PSU with?

It's been on for 25 minutes now but the CPU is running at 100 degrees celcius which is extremely hot compared to everything else running at 35-40 degrees celcius. I'm not sure how to cool the CPU down.