Question PC suddenly froze mid-game, then turned off, and now the CPU light is red ?

[Epic Cat]

I know this is a relatively uncommon issue, but I just booted up Forza 4, when it freezes, the graphics went all wonky (I thought it was a GPU issue at first) and then the displays shut down, and the cpu light is on. I've tried pushing the power button and the restart button, but known of them work. The fans and LEDs are all still on though. From what researching I've done, it seems to be a PSU issue. I recently upgraded the mobo and CPU about 2? months ago and have had zero issues. This is the first time this has happened.

Specs:
PSU: Thermaltake Smart bx1 750w 80 plus bronze
Mobo: Msi mpg z690 edge wifi
CPU: i5-13600kf
GPU: EVGA rtx 3070
CPU cooler: master liquid ml240 V2 RGB
RAM: 2 x 8gb Corsair 3200 DDR4 & 2 x 8 gb oloy 2400 DDR4

I think it's the PSU, because from what I've heard my model isn't particularly good, and I desperately don't want it to be the mobo or CPU because I just bought those a month or two ago for like $500. Any help would be appreciated. As of right now, I'm just going to leave my PC on as the power button isn't working and I don't want to turn off the PSU.

 

[35below0]

Welcome to the forum Epic Cat.

You'll have to turn off the PC eventually. It does sound like the PSU died. I hope it didn't take the motherboard with it.
The LED light indicates a motherboard problem but it may simply not have power to operate normally.

Replace the PSU immediately. No point in sticking with that unit. It wasn't good/safe even when it wasn't old and used. Also, your new i5 needs more power which means there was less left over for the GPU.

CPUs are pretty tough so your new i5 is probably fine. The problem was *probably* caused by the PSU not being able to deliver the stated 750w, esp. when Forza pushed the 3070 harder.

It only takes a split second for a lousy PSU to be overwhelmed.

Can you also add specs of your old CPU and mobo? Not that important, but just to see what changed.

 

[35below0]

Take a look at these PSUs:

https://www.phanteks.com/Revolt.html

PQ850M - DeepCool

Introducing a new generation of power reliability, the DeepCool PQ-M Series 80 PLUS Gold Modular Power Supply delivers high efficiency and stability for performance PC systems needing ultra-quiet operation with silent fan modes. - DeepCool was founded with the mission of providing professional...

www.deepcool.com

Ion+ 2 Platinum 860W

The Ion+ 2 Platinum is a high-performance fully modular PSU with whisper-quiet operation, enhanced cable flexibility and superior output quality.

www.fractal-design.com

The Phanteks is overkill for your PC, you won't need it's ATX 3.0 or PCIe 5 features. It does have 12 year warranty, and the Phanteks or Seasonic range is reliable.

Whichever brand you choose, aim for ~850w and no less than 7 years of warranty.

 

[Epic Cat]

Welcome to the forum Epic Cat.

You'll have to turn off the PC eventually. It does sound like the PSU died. I hope it didn't take the motherboard with it.
The LED light indicates a motherboard problem but it may simply not have power to operate normally.

Replace the PSU immediately. No point in sticking with that unit. It wasn't good/safe even when it wasn't old and used. Also, your new i5 needs more power which means there was less left over for the GPU.

CPUs are pretty tough so your new i5 is probably fine. The problem was *probably* caused by the PSU not being able to deliver the stated 750w, esp. when Forza pushed the 3070 harder.

It only takes a split second for a lousy PSU to be overwhelmed.

Can you also add specs of your old CPU and mobo? Not that important, but just to see what changed.

Thanks for the input. My old combo was an i5-11400f and an off brand mobo that originally came with my pre built PC like 2 years ago. I'll look into getting a new PSU. For turning off he computer, should I just turn off the power strip I have it plugged into, or turn off the PSU itself?

 

[Epic Cat]

Take a look at these PSUs:

https://www.phanteks.com/Revolt.html

PQ850M - DeepCool

Introducing a new generation of power reliability, the DeepCool PQ-M Series 80 PLUS Gold Modular Power Supply delivers high efficiency and stability for performance PC systems needing ultra-quiet operation with silent fan modes. - DeepCool was founded with the mission of providing professional...

www.deepcool.com

Ion+ 2 Platinum 860W

The Ion+ 2 Platinum is a high-performance fully modular PSU with whisper-quiet operation, enhanced cable flexibility and superior output quality.

www.fractal-design.com

The Phanteks is overkill for your PC, you won't need it's ATX 3.0 or PCIe 5 features. It does have 12 year warranty, and the Phanteks or Seasonic range is reliable.

Whichever brand you choose, aim for ~850w and no less than 7 years of warranty.

Corsair RM850x (2021) Fully Modular ATX Power Supply - 80 PLUS Gold - Low-Noise Fan - Zero RPM - Black https://a.co/d/7rTO1ys
I've heard Corsair makes good psus. Would this be a good option?

 

[35below0]

Corsair RM850x (2021) Fully Modular ATX Power Supply - 80 PLUS Gold - Low-Noise Fan - Zero RPM - Black https://a.co/d/7rTO1ys
I've heard Corsair makes good psus. Would this be a good option?

Yeah, that's a good one.
Corsair also make terrible PSUs and Thermaltake make good ones. It's not just the question of picking the brand. They will offer a range of units. Entry level or "affordable" PSUs are usually not that reliable, and cheap ones are ones to run away from real quick.

Take the Fractal Design PSUs for example. In addition to the Ion series they sell Anode models. They're cheaper but not nearly as good. Not terrible units, and with at least 5y warranty, but they're not the right choice for more expensive or enthusiast/gaming PCs.

As for the power switch vs rail strip question, i honestly have no idea whether it makes a difference. But keeping a faulty PSU on is not a good choice.

 

[Epic Cat]

Yeah, that's a good one.
Corsair also make terrible PSUs and Thermaltake make good ones. It's not just the question of picking the brand. They will offer a range of units. Entry level or "affordable" PSUs are usually not that reliable, and cheap ones are ones to run away from real quick.

Take the Fractal Design PSUs for example. In addition to the Ion series they sell Anode models. They're cheaper but not nearly as good. Not terrible units, and with at least 5y warranty, but they're not the right choice for more expensive or enthusiast/gaming PCs.

As for the power switch vs rail strip question, i honestly have no idea whether it makes a difference. But keeping a faulty PSU on is not a good choice.

I would like to thank you for your information you gave me. I went and bought the Corsair 850w off Amazon and installed it later that day. Not only do I now have a more efficient psu (80 plus bronze to gold) I also now have a modular psu to help with cable management, and a safer psu, which should prevent this issue from happening again. Believe me when I say I was at my wit's end when my pc refused to turn off or boot, and the cpu light was on. I was terrified that my brand new expensive mobo and cpu had been fried. I just finished hooking up the cables and it booted up flawlessly. People like you are the real unsung heroes of the tech community.

 

[35below0]

Thank you for your kind words. I couldn't do it without everyone here. We're happy to help, and to share experience and knowledge of whims and problems of computers and software.

It's a relief your gear hasn't been fried. 👍

Edit - Oh and yes, definetly love modular PSUs. So much nicer to work with.