Question PC is suddenly stuck in a restart loop ?

May 24, 2023
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Hello!

Today my PC got stuck into a reboot loop. Starts and instantly stops.

I installed 2 new RAM sticks and a new SSD into my Asus ROG Maximus X Formula mobo and it booted up well. Screen appeared with an issue, that the new SSD runs as a Sata, and i should change it to 4X from 2x (or something similar. Sorry i’m not the brightest when it comes to hardware).

As i changed the required option in BIOS, saved and restarted, the PC got stuck on a black screen. Nothing loaded. After 5-10 minutes i shut the PC down and restarted.

To my surprise, the PC was stuck in a loop of starting and stopping in 2 seconds or even less. My first thought was to reset the BIOS settings, i did so using the CMOS reset button on my mobo. This, unfortunately did not solve the issue. I unplugged my HDDs and took out the new SSD, along with the new RAM sticks i inserted. (When it booted up, it showed that the RAM sticks are fine, working as needed.)

I tried CMOS reset again, same issue. Tried flashing the BIOS, issue persisted. I took it apart, down to RAM and CPU left. Did not boot, issue is the same.

The Mobo is telling me the issue is the CPU, as it has a red light showing up, that it found some issues. It is showing an error code 00 on the mobo itself besides the red CPU light.

I read that this error means either no power to CPU, faulty CPU or faulty mobo.

As i took the PC apart, i noticed this:
View: https://imgur.com/a/YeZJFdB


On the bottom of the picture, the Mobo seems.. burned(?)

Any clue what could have happened there? I’d assume that the mobo is damaged, and must be replaced, everything else seems fine.

Thank you.
 
Solution
Wifes PC kept running. Unsure how
PSU's hold-up time is what keeps PCs running. Albeit not long (up to ~35ms, depending on a PSU). Monitors don't have any hold-up time and go dark as soon as power loss occurs.

Oh, if you think the topic has concluded, here's a guide on how to mark the topic "Solved",
link: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/how-to-mark-posts-as-solved-award-best-answer.3803582/

After you've marked it Solved, topic isn't closed, instead, discussion can continue. Purpose of it, is to let others know that the issue/question within topic has been solved.
May 24, 2023
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Full system specs, including PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?
Ah, sorry. Right.

Full system specs are the following:

Mobo: Asus Rog Maximus X Formula
PSU: corsair 1000W HX Series
CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K 3.70GHz
GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti OC 11GB GDDR5X 352bit
Ram: Dominator Platinum 16GB DDR4 4000MHz CMD16GX4M2E4000C19

The full setup was bought brand new 5 years and like a month ago.

I’m using a Noctua NH-D15 Multi CPU Cooler, CPU running on 4.6ghz and RAMis XMP to 4000.

I added 2 more sticks today, it worked fine before i changed the bios settings for the m2 SSD to 4x from 2x. Those 2 sticks are CORSAIR 16GB Vengeance LPX DDR4 4000MHz CL19 KIT CMK16GX4M2K4000C19


Hopefully i did not skip anything.
 

Aeacus

Titan
Ambassador
Take out your CPU and look if you have any bent pins in CPU socket.

Ram: Dominator Platinum 16GB DDR4 4000MHz CMD16GX4M2E4000C19
Those 2 sticks are CORSAIR 16GB Vengeance LPX DDR4 4000MHz CL19 KIT CMK16GX4M2K4000C19

Bad idea to mix RAM.
Reason why in here: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...y-ram-and-xmp-profile-configurations.3398926/
Especially "mixed memory" chapter.

On the bottom of the picture, the Mobo seems.. burned(?)

Any clue what could have happened there?

May not be burn marks per se. How does the chipset heatsink look like from underneath? That piece you had to screw off to insert the M.2.
If thermal pad sits at that spot, then it most likely is thermal pad residue.
 
May 24, 2023
23
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Take out your CPU and look if you have any bent pins in CPU socket.




Bad idea to mix RAM.
Reason why in here: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...y-ram-and-xmp-profile-configurations.3398926/
Especially "mixed memory" chapter.



May not be burn marks per se. How does the chipset heatsink look like from underneath? That piece you had to screw off to insert the M.2.
If thermal pad sits at that spot, then it most likely is thermal pad residue.
I did take out the CPU, it looked fine, but i shall take another look.

The motherboard is telling me it is a CPU issue, and not a RAM(like the CPU is not getting power?) but i guess the mixed RAM could have caused some issues after it first posted?

Unfortunately i could not find any of my old ram for sale, thats why i went with these 2 new sticks. Should i grab 2 more of these new sticks then, and that should be fine RAM wise? Or would i be better off with new, 2x16 sticks?


Hm, it is very likely thermal pad residue then.

Thanks for your answers, i’ll check the CPU again, and try out possible solutions that is found in the mixed ram post.
 
May 24, 2023
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As an update, i decided to take it to a computer service, see id the PSU is faulty, etc. It seems like PSU is dead. I’m unsure yet if it fried the motherboard. CPU should be fine, and i think the GPU should be working fine aswell, but could not test those. I hope that the PSU did not kill those aswell.

Interestingly it all started after i inserted the 2 new ram sticks and restarted from bios after i made the changes to the m2 ssd.


Is it possible that the new rams i inserted wanted more voltage or something and fried everything?


On another note, i’m most likely sending the new RAMs back, i dont think i can upgrade to 32GB RAM unless i buy 4 new sticks, but i dont really want to throw away my old ones. I guess they could be sold, but on a pretty huge loss.

If my mobo and PSU are dead, and lets say my CPU is dead too, what would be your recommanded parts that could work well with my GPU and ram?
 

Aeacus

Titan
Ambassador
I hope that the PSU did not kill those aswell.

You have high quality PSU in use, so it would be unlikely it killing anything else.

Is it possible that the new rams i inserted wanted more voltage or something and fried everything?

Unlikely. However, while Corsair HX is good quality with nice 10 year warranty, it is strange that PSU went belly up. :unsure: My best guess, PSU got rattled around a bit, when you installed your new RAM, which ended up PSU going belly up. Still, this kind of circumstances (a bit of rattle) should not affect PSU, unless during manufacture, a solder joint was weak and the rattle opened it up, causing PSU to die.

On another note, i’m most likely sending the new RAMs back, i dont think i can upgrade to 32GB RAM unless i buy 4 new sticks, but i dont really want to throw away my old ones. I guess they could be sold, but on a pretty huge loss.

Best to return your LPX Vengeance RAM and go with 4x 8GB or 2x 16GB set. This gives you guarantee that all RAM sticks will work together well and ends up you having 32 GB of RAM.

As an update, i decided to take it to a computer service, see id the PSU is faulty, etc. It seems like PSU is dead.
What PSU they suggested as a replacement, if any?

If my mobo and PSU are dead, and lets say my CPU is dead too, what would be your recommanded parts that could work well with my GPU and ram?
This is a solid option:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor ($309.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-P WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic PRIME Ultra Platinum 750 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.99 @ B&H)
Total: $709.97

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-05-25 10:32 EDT-0400


Few words.
Core i5 is sold for all kinds of tasks and you can OC your CPU if you like.
Did put NH-D15 in, but marked it as "purchased", so that pcpp won't throw an error of missing CPU cooler. Also, you might want to contact Noctua and ask for LGA1700 mounting kit (they send it to you for free).
MoBo is latest, Z790 chipset, which supports DDR4 RAM. For other options regarding MoBo, pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=40&c=162&mt=ddr4&sort=price&page=1
And PSU is top-of-the-line unit from Seasonic. 12 years of warranty and same efficiency, 80+ Platinum. 750W is enough for your GTX 1080 Ti and RTX 4070 Ti, if you upgrade your GPU in the future. But if you upgrade to RTX 4080 then you need 1000W PSU and if you upgrade to RTX 4090, then 1600W PSU is needed.

All 3 of my PCs (full specs with pics in my sig), are also powered by Seasonic. And i also have PRIME Ultra PSU in my Haswell build, but mine is 650W unit but 80+ Titanium efficiency (best 650W PSU money could buy). So, you have options with PSUs; you can go with 80+ Titanium version of Seasonic PRIME as well (will cost you easy 250+ bucks) or if you want cheaper than what Seasonic units costs, you can look back to Corsair and their RMe/RMi/RMx series.
 
May 24, 2023
23
4
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You have high quality PSU in use, so it would be unlikely it killing anything else.

Unlikely. However, while Corsair HX is good quality with nice 10 year warranty, it is strange that PSU went belly up. My best guess, PSU got rattled around a bit, when you installed your new RAM, which ended up PSU going belly up. Still, this kind of circumstances (a bit of rattle) should not affect PSU, unless during manufacture, a solder joint was weak and the rattle opened it up, causing PSU to die.
Sadly i could not see it, but the guys at the repair shop could, there were 2 pins that were damaged on the CPU. They said they'll try to fix that, but i do not think that is a possibility. Atleast the chance of it working well is pretty small i think. I'm unsure if the motherboard did survive the PSUs death. I do have 5 more years of warranty on it, so i think i could get it RMAd, but that is, probably a longer process, so i'll be buying another PSU, but still RMA the current one.
Best to return your LPX Vengeance RAM and go with 4x 8GB or 2x 16GB set. This gives you guarantee that all RAM sticks will work together well and ends up you having 32 GB of RAM.
Yes, i do think that is the best choice aswell. i'll be returning the new ram sticks.
What PSU they suggested as a replacement, if any?
None.

This is a solid option:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor ($309.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-P WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic PRIME Ultra Platinum 750 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.99 @ B&H)
Total: $709.97

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-05-25 10:32 EDT-0400
Considering i want new RAM sticks, i'm unsure if i should go with DDR4 or DDR5 at this point.
I think i should probably try to go for a build, where my 1080Ti becomes the "worst" part, which will be in need of switching later on.
I'm also unsure if there are any Motherboards i could get, where i do not need to request a new LGA1700 Mounting kit, as you described, considering it'd take a significant amount of time for that to arrive, and i need the PC up and ready as soon as possible. Sadly best case scenario would be next thursday/friday.

I do not really even trust myself anymore, considering i probably did something around the CPU so the pins got damaged. In that case i'd probably just let the people i order from build it, which is either a good or a bad idea, i'm still not sure.

I'm unsure how long it would take for a LGA1700 mounting kit to arrive from Noctua.

What would be a build, in your opinion that would be a significant upgrade compared to my old build, while i hold on to my GPU?

I used to run my i7 CPU on 4.6ghz, as i see the one you suggested runs at around 5-5.1ghz.

I do not think i can get a SeaSonic PRIME Ultra where i live, atleast i could not find one for sale at the shop i trust and do my usual shopping.
Sadly(But understandably) Noctua requires proof of purchase of a LGA1700 Mobo or CPU. Which means even getting one would take extra time, and i cannot afford that currently, unfortunately.

The place i do my shopping at does not one have either, closest possible time of getting one would be in 2 weeks, so i might just need to switch from a Noctua cooler... I think i could budget in a bit more expensive CPU.

But i'm not sure. May i ask for another suggestion from you, full build wise that i could run with, using my 1080ti? I liked the i7-8700k because it was perfectly fine with my 1080ti. I assume a stronger CPU could mean i'd be throttling its power with the 1080ti?

Also, with a newer CPU running at approx. 5ghz., would 750W be enough of power? RAM wise, i'd go for 32 or 64GB. Do you think i'd need 4000mhz? Should i go for something lower? 3600C18 maybe? All the help appreciated.
 

Aeacus

Titan
Ambassador
Sadly i could not see it, but the guys at the repair shop could, there were 2 pins that were damaged on the CPU. They said they'll try to fix that
i7-8700K is LGA CPU and it does not have pins. Instead, CPU socket on MoBo has pins.
AMD CPUs, AM4 socket and older, are PGA and CPU chips have pins.

Here, i'd be suspicious on the competency of that repair shop. :unsure:

Considering i want new RAM sticks, i'm unsure if i should go with DDR4 or DDR5 at this point.

Further reading: https://www.tomshardware.com/features/ddr5-vs-ddr4-is-it-time-to-upgrade-your-ram
A long read, but will answer your conundrum.

I'm also unsure if there are any Motherboards i could get, where i do not need to request a new LGA1700 Mounting kit, as you described, considering it'd take a significant amount of time for that to arrive, and i need the PC up and ready as soon as possible.

You can buy the LGA1700 mounting kit from amazon too,
link: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NM-i17xx-MP83-chromax-Black-Mounting-Platform/dp/B09FSV5H72

Otherwise, best CPU-MoBo combo you could get, would be LGA1200 (same mounting holes as your current LGA1151), which means Intel 11th gen. E.g like so:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-11600K 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($176.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: ASRock Z590 Extreme WiFi 6E ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic PRIME Ultra Platinum 750 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.99 @ B&H)
Total: $466.97

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-05-26 18:37 EDT-0400


i5-11600K is slightly better than your i7-8700K, comparison: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-8700K-vs-Intel-Core-i5-11600K/3937vs4113
While i5-13600K is a lot better than your i7-8700K, comparison: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-8700K-vs-Intel-Core-i5-13600K/3937vs4134
i5-11600K vs i5-13600K comparison: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-11600K-vs-Intel-Core-i5-13600K/4113vs4134

Now, my question is: Are you willing to pay $287 for equal performance? Or would you rather go with latest 13th gen and get it running by buying the 10 bucks mounting kit from amazon? :unsure:

I do not really even trust myself anymore, considering i probably did something around the CPU so the pins got damaged. In that case i'd probably just let the people i order from build it, which is either a good or a bad idea, i'm still not sure.
What might have happened, is that when you reinstalled your NH-D15 (after installing new RAM), you put too much pressure on the CPU cooler, thus bending CPU pins in CPU socket. Either that, or there was an ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge) that killed your hardware.

What would be a build, in your opinion that would be a significant upgrade compared to my old build, while i hold on to my GPU?

The i5-13600K i linked above. Then again, it all depends on how much you're willing to spend. i7-13700K is better than i5-13600K. i9-13900K is better than i7-13700K.

Build comparison, your current build as Base, my 13th gen suggestion as Alternative:
Userbenchmark PC Build Comparison

Baseline Bench: Game 110%, Desk 91%, Work 101%
CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K
GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080-Ti
SSD: Samsung 870 EVO 1TB
RAM: Corsair Dominator DDR4 3000 C15 2x8GB

Alternative Bench: Game 148%, Desk 115%, Work 163%
CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K
GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080-Ti
SSD: Samsung 870 EVO 1TB
RAM: Corsair Dominator DDR4 3000 C15 2x8GB

SSD in comparison is generic one, since you didn't say what your OS drive is. And RAM is close match, since UserBenchmark doesn't have the exact RAM as you have. Still, it gives a good idea how much better the new build would be, when still using your GTX 1080 Ti.

I used to run my i7 CPU on 4.6ghz, as i see the one you suggested runs at around 5-5.1ghz.

Latest CPUs do run on higher clocks, reducing the need for people to OC the chips for additional performance. Nowadays, with latest stuff, CPU OC headroom is 100-300 Mhz, making little, if any, reason to OC the CPU. Older CPUs (8th, 7th, 6th gen) had a lot CPU OC headroom and one could've easily got another 600 Mhz to 1 Ghz ontop of default frequencies.

You can downclock your CPU if you want, but IMO, that's wasting the potential performance. In this case, i'd suggest buying cheaper CPU that runs on lower clocks, e.g i5-13400 (base 3.3 Gghz, turbo up to 4.6 Ghz).

I do not think i can get a SeaSonic PRIME Ultra where i live, atleast i could not find one for sale at the shop i trust and do my usual shopping.

Besides Seasonic PRIME, other solid options are: Seasonic Focus and Super Flower Leadex. Or if you still trust Corsair, then: Corsair RMe/RMi/RMx/HX/HXi/AX/AXi.

May i ask for another suggestion from you, full build wise that i could run with, using my 1080ti? I liked the i7-8700k because it was perfectly fine with my 1080ti. I assume a stronger CPU could mean i'd be throttling its power with the 1080ti?

It is extremely difficult to get "balanced" build, where depending on what you do, both the CPU and GPU are utilized equally. Now, i see you have quite a bit of RAM and are also thinking to get more. Here, tell me the top 3 main usages of your PC. So that i have an idea what you use your PC for, and can suggest accordingly.

But for example gaming <- there, you'll always be limited by what your CPU or GPU is able to provide. Gaming wise, you were limited what your 8th gen CPU could do, since back then, GTX 1080 Ti was top-of-the-line. And it still is a good GPU.
Also, with a newer CPU running at approx. 5ghz., would 750W be enough of power?
i5-13600K is 125W CPU. Consuming 181W on turbo. So, lets say CPU is 200W. GTX 1080 Ti is 250W GPU. Add the rest of the system to it at ~100W (MoBo, SSD/HDD, RAM, fans etc), total power draw, at max load, would be ~550W, making 750W PSU enough. With 750W unit, you'd even have room for CPU/GPU OC.

RAM wise, i'd go for 32 or 64GB. Do you think i'd need 4000mhz? Should i go for something lower? 3600C18 maybe? All the help appreciated.

Lets 1st establish if you want to get DDR4 or DDR5. Once that hurdle is crossed, i also need to know your PC usage. E.g for gaming, 32 GB is much. For workstation use (3D rendering and the like), 32 GB would be too less. So, i can't even guess what you use your PC for.
 
Last edited:
May 24, 2023
23
4
15
i7-8700K is LGA CPU and it does not have pins. Instead, CPU socket on MoBo has pins.
AMD CPUs, AM4 socket and older, are PGA and CPU chips have pins.

Here, i'd be suspicious on the competency of that repair shop. :unsure:
Yes, their competency is questionable for sure in that regard. They said they could not fix it, i just accepted it. Atleast now it is decided that everything besides my GPU is getting an upgrade.
Thank you. This was very helpful. I'm still a bit torn between the two. It seems like DDR4 4000Mhz C16 is worse than DDR5, atleast as i understood. I guess with a DDR5 Mobo i could future proof a bit better, but i'm not entirely sure to be honest. I don't know how much of a price difference the two would have.
What might have happened, is that when you reinstalled your NH-D15 (after installing new RAM), you put too much pressure on the CPU cooler, thus bending CPU pins in CPU socket. Either that, or there was an ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge) that killed your hardware.
I see. Possible.
The i5-13600K i linked above. Then again, it all depends on how much you're willing to spend. i7-13700K is better than i5-13600K. i9-13900K is better than i7-13700K.

Build comparison, your current build as Base, my 13th gen suggestion as Alternative:
Userbenchmark PC Build Comparison

Baseline Bench: Game 110%, Desk 91%, Work 101%
CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K
GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080-Ti
SSD: Samsung 870 EVO 1TB
RAM: Corsair Dominator DDR4 3000 C15 2x8GB

Alternative Bench: Game 148%, Desk 115%, Work 163%
CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K
GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080-Ti
SSD: Samsung 870 EVO 1TB
RAM: Corsair Dominator DDR4 3000 C15 2x8GB

SSD in comparison is generic one, since you didn't say what your OS drive is. And RAM is close match, since UserBenchmark doesn't have the exact RAM as you have. Still, it gives a good idea how much better the new build would be, when still using your GTX 1080 Ti.
I've been thinking of grabbing the i7-13700K. It is a bit more expensive, unsure if as much better as more expensive, though.
Latest CPUs do run on higher clocks, reducing the need for people to OC the chips for additional performance. Nowadays, with latest stuff, CPU OC headroom is 100-300 Mhz, making little, if any, reason to OC the CPU. Older CPUs (8th, 7th, 6th gen) had a lot CPU OC headroom and one could've easily got another 600 Mhz to 1 Ghz ontop of default frequencies.

You can downclock your CPU if you want, but IMO, that's wasting the potential performance. In this case, i'd suggest buying cheaper CPU that runs on lower clocks, e.g i5-13400 (base 3.3 Gghz, turbo up to 4.6 Ghz).
Oh, interesting. So if understand correctly, i had an i7-8700K that ran at 4.6Ghz OCd. Base clock speed was 3.6Ghz. Newer ones (For example the i5-13400) has the base of 3.3Ghz, and turbo mode is basically a "built-in" OC, that runs it at 4.6Ghz?
Besides Seasonic PRIME, other solid options are: Seasonic Focus and Super Flower Leadex. Or if you still trust Corsair, then: Corsair RMe/RMi/RMx/HX/HXi/AX/AXi.
Hm thank you, I'll look into a SeaSonic one. I do not think i can turst Corsair at this point when it comes to PSU. I'll RMA it, but unfortunately i don't think i can get back much from it, besides maybe a new PSU. I do not know sadly if the PSU is the one that killed the mobo. Hopefully it did not kill my GPU. It should not have. I'll see with the new build i guess.
It is extremely difficult to get "balanced" build, where depending on what you do, both the CPU and GPU are utilized equally. Now, i see you have quite a bit of RAM and are also thinking to get more. Here, tell me the top 3 main usages of your PC. So that i have an idea what you use your PC for, and can suggest accordingly.

But for example gaming <- there, you'll always be limited by what your CPU or GPU is able to provide. Gaming wise, you were limited what your 8th gen CPU could do, since back then, GTX 1080 Ti was top-of-the-line. And it still is a good GPU.
Well, i'd say gaming at this point. I switched workplaces, and i'm getting myself a workstation from there, so i won't need it as much for work as previously. There are some video/photo editings occasionally, but nothing insane. I also use it for VR, but i'm unsure how important that part is.
i5-13600K is 125W CPU. Consuming 181W on turbo. So, lets say CPU is 200W. GTX 1080 Ti is 250W GPU. Add the rest of the system to it at ~100W (MoBo, SSD/HDD, RAM, fans etc), total power draw, at max load, would be ~550W, making 750W PSU enough. With 750W unit, you'd even have room for CPU/GPU OC.

Lets 1st establish if you want to get DDR4 or DDR5. Once that hurdle is crossed, i also need to know your PC usage. E.g for gaming, 32 GB is much. For workstation use (3D rendering and the like), 32 GB would be too less. So, i can't even guess what you use your PC for.
Hard question indeed. First i thought i'm going with DDR4 no matter what. Now i'm not really sure, as i looked around price wise. Mobos are more expensive, but RAM is not as much more expensive as i thought it will be, but i might be looking at wrong comparisons. As i mainly use it for gaming, i do think 16GB of ram could be enough for most tasks i do, but i'm unsure how it could change down the line, that is why i'm thinking of straight up going for 32GB of RAM, considering i'm making a new build anyways.


I do think i want to go with the i7-13700K. But it could be a bad idea. The DDR4 vs DDR5 question still stands, as i'm unsure what the price difference would be between the two builds. If it is not huge, i guess DDR5 could be a better choice overall. I also thought of switching to a liquid cooler, but i think i will not need it unless i go for a super high-end CPU. I did read that the i7-13700k has issues with its temp, as it likes to get hot. Still gotta do some reading about that.

I could sell my Noctua cooler pretty easily, if i decide to switch to a different one(as in liquid), or a different one overall. I do think Noctua coolers are really good, though.

Sadly it is a matter of time currently, as i need to get my build into a working state as soon as possible, as i have some projects left to finish before i start at my new workplace.
 

Aeacus

Titan
Ambassador
Oh, interesting. So if understand correctly, i had an i7-8700K that ran at 4.6Ghz OCd. Base clock speed was 3.6Ghz. Newer ones (For example the i5-13400) has the base of 3.3Ghz, and turbo mode is basically a "built-in" OC, that runs it at 4.6Ghz?

Most Intel CPUs have turbo. Your i7-8700K has base 3.7 Ghz and turbo up to 4.7 Ghz,
specs: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/u...8700k-processor-12m-cache-up-to-4-70-ghz.html

But overall, yes, turbo is sometimes also called as algorithmic OC.
Further reading, if interested: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/gaming/resources/turbo-boost.html

I've been thinking of grabbing the i7-13700K. It is a bit more expensive, unsure if as much better as more expensive, though.
Core i7 is bit better than Core i5, comparison: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-13600K-vs-Intel-Core-i7-13700K/4134vs4137
But main thing you'll get with Core i7, is two extra cores and 4 additional threads over Core i5. And ~80W more power consumption too, on full turbo.

With Core i7, i'd suggest getting 850W PSU.

Hard question indeed. First i thought i'm going with DDR4 no matter what. Now i'm not really sure, as i looked around price wise. Mobos are more expensive, but RAM is not as much more expensive as i thought it will be, but i might be looking at wrong comparisons.

Two builds;
#1 Core i7 with DDR4 MoBo and 850W PSU:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($409.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-P WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS PLUS 850 Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.99 @ B&H)
Total: $789.97

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-05-27 12:20 EDT-0400


#2 Core i7 with DDR5 MoBo, DDR5 RAM (6000 Mhz, CL36, 32 GB) and 850W PSU:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($409.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-A WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($239.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($95.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS PLUS 850 Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.99 @ B&H)
Total: $905.96

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-05-27 12:22 EDT-0400


I did read that the i7-13700k has issues with its temp, as it likes to get hot. Still gotta do some reading about that.

Cooling the 13700K wasn't as challenging as we experienced with the 13900K, largely because it has eight fewer e-cores than the flagship model. We peaked at 85C during stock operation with our 280mm Corsair H115i, and ran in the 95C range during heavily threaded workloads with a 5.5 GHz overclock.
Source + further reading: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-core-i7-13700k-cpu-review/2

I also thought of switching to a liquid cooler, but i think i will not need it unless i go for a super high-end CPU.

As far as AIOs vs air coolers go, you won't gain any cooling performance if you go with AIO over air cooler since both are cooled by ambient air.
For equal cooling performance between AIOs and air coolers, rad needs to be 240mm or 280mm. Smaller rads: 120mm and 140mm are almost always outperformed by mid-sized air coolers. Single slot rads are good in mini-ITX builds where you don't have enough CPU cooler clearance to install mid-sized CPU air cooler.

Here are the positive sides of both (air and AIO) CPU cooling methods;

Pros of air coolers:
less cost
less maintenance
less noise
far longer longevity
no leakage risks
doesn't take up case fan slots
additional cooling for the RAM
CPU cools down faster after heavy heat output

Pros of AIOs:
no RAM clearance issues*
no CPU clearance issues
CPU takes longer time to heat up during heavy heat output (about 30 mins)
* on some cases, top mounted rad can give RAM clearance issues

While how the CPU cooler looks inside the PC depends on a person. Some people prefer to see small AIO pump in the middle of their MoBo with tubing going to the rad while others prefer to see big heatsink with fans in the middle of their MoBo.

Main difference between AIO and air cooler is that with AIO, you'll get more noise at a higher cost while cooling performance remains the same.
Here's also one good article for you to read where king of air coolers (Noctua NH-D15) was put against 5x high-end AIOs, including former king of AIOs (NZXT x61 Kraken),
link: http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/noctua/nh-d15-versus-closed-loop-liquid-coolers/1

Personally, i'd go with air coolers every day of the week. With same cooling performance, the pros of air coolers outweigh the pros of AIOs considerably. While, for me, the 3 main pros would be:
1. Less noise.
Since i like my PC to be quiet, i can't stand the loud noise AIO makes. Also, when air gets trapped inside the AIO (some AIOs are more prone to this than others), there's additional noise coming from inside the pump.
2. Longevity.
Cheaper AIOs usually last 2-3 years and high-end ones 4-5 years before you need to replace it. While with air coolers, their life expectancy is basically unlimited. Only thing that can go bad on an air cooler is the fan on it. If the fan dies, your CPU still has cooling in form of a big heatsink. Also, new 120mm or 140mm fan doesn't cost much and it's easy to replace one. While with AIOs, the main thing that usually goes bad is the pump itself. And when that happens, your CPU has no cooling whatsoever. Since you can't replace pump on an AIO, you need to buy whole new AIO to replace the old one out.
3. No leakage risks.
Since there's liquid circling inside the AIO, there is always a risk that your AIO can leak. While it's rare, it has happened. It's well known fact that liquids and electronics don't mix.

I could sell my Noctua cooler pretty easily, if i decide to switch to a different one(as in liquid), or a different one overall. I do think Noctua coolers are really good, though.

The NH-D15 you have, is king of air coolers and you will not get any better air cooler if you switch it out.

Since you're scrambling with time, you could buy new NH-D15 that comes with LGA1700 mounting kit.
Here, i'd suggest buying NH-D15S chromax.black,
specs: https://noctua.at/en/nh-d15s-chromax-black
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/R6...lack-8251-cfm-cpu-cooler-nh-d15s-chromaxblack

NH-D15S is offset to one side, to give better clearance in terms of GPU. And while it comes with 1x fan, you can add more fans to the CPU cooler if you like (for better static pressure within heatsink fins).

Sadly it is a matter of time currently, as i need to get my build into a working state as soon as possible, as i have some projects left to finish before i start at my new workplace.

It comes down to the price. Going with DDR4 MoBo saves you ~120 bucks and leaves you with 16GB of RAM. Going with DDR5 and new RAM, means you can have 32GB of RAM, while the real world difference in gaming (as you read from TH article i linked) is only ~3% better.
 
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Most Intel CPUs have turbo. Your i7-8700K has base 3.7 Ghz and turbo up to 4.7 Ghz,
specs: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/u...8700k-processor-12m-cache-up-to-4-70-ghz.html

But overall, yes, turbo is sometimes also called as algorithmic OC.
Further reading, if interested: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/gaming/resources/turbo-boost.html
Thank you. I'll read that once i get a bit of time on my hands.
Core i7 is bit better than Core i5, comparison: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-13600K-vs-Intel-Core-i7-13700K/4134vs4137
But main thing you'll get with Core i7, is two extra cores and 4 additional threads over Core i5. And ~80W more power consumption too, on full turbo.

With Core i7, i'd suggest getting 850W PSU.
Hmm i see, thank you. I'll probably stick to the i7. Interestingly, the shop i'm buying from is showing the i7-13700k up as a "2.5ghz base clock speed". I'm pretty sure that is a mistake on their side, as it is listed as a 3.7ghz one elsewhere.
Two builds;
#1 Core i7 with DDR4 MoBo and 850W PSU:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($409.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-P WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS PLUS 850 Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.99 @ B&H)
Total: $789.97

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-05-27 12:20 EDT-0400


#2 Core i7 with DDR5 MoBo, DDR5 RAM (6000 Mhz, CL36, 32 GB) and 850W PSU:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($409.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-A WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($239.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($95.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS PLUS 850 Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.99 @ B&H)
Total: $905.96

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-05-27 12:22 EDT-0400
I see, i will probably go with the DDR4 set up at last, but will probably get new RAM for it, that is 32GB. Which will cost me a bit extra, but i can probably sell my old ones, or use it on another build. Unfortunately they do not have the PSU you listed.

They do have the SeaSonic PRIME TX-850 850 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply for sale though. I think that should be good?

They also have the SeaSonic PRIME TX-1000 1000 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply, and it is on a sale currently, so it costs nearly as much as the 850W. It is around 50$ more, which is overall not that much of extra, and makes it easier to upgrade later on, i think? Normally it is approx. 125$ more than the 850W one.
Thanks, will do.
As far as AIOs vs air coolers go, you won't gain any cooling performance if you go with AIO over air cooler since both are cooled by ambient air.
For equal cooling performance between AIOs and air coolers, rad needs to be 240mm or 280mm. Smaller rads: 120mm and 140mm are almost always outperformed by mid-sized air coolers. Single slot rads are good in mini-ITX builds where you don't have enough CPU cooler clearance to install mid-sized CPU air cooler.

Here are the positive sides of both (air and AIO) CPU cooling methods;

Pros of air coolers:
less cost
less maintenance
less noise
far longer longevity
no leakage risks
doesn't take up case fan slots
additional cooling for the RAM
CPU cools down faster after heavy heat output

Pros of AIOs:
no RAM clearance issues*
no CPU clearance issues
CPU takes longer time to heat up during heavy heat output (about 30 mins)
* on some cases, top mounted rad can give RAM clearance issues

While how the CPU cooler looks inside the PC depends on a person. Some people prefer to see small AIO pump in the middle of their MoBo with tubing going to the rad while others prefer to see big heatsink with fans in the middle of their MoBo.

Main difference between AIO and air cooler is that with AIO, you'll get more noise at a higher cost while cooling performance remains the same.
Here's also one good article for you to read where king of air coolers (Noctua NH-D15) was put against 5x high-end AIOs, including former king of AIOs (NZXT x61 Kraken),
link: http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/noctua/nh-d15-versus-closed-loop-liquid-coolers/1

Personally, i'd go with air coolers every day of the week. With same cooling performance, the pros of air coolers outweigh the pros of AIOs considerably. While, for me, the 3 main pros would be:
1. Less noise.
Since i like my PC to be quiet, i can't stand the loud noise AIO makes. Also, when air gets trapped inside the AIO (some AIOs are more prone to this than others), there's additional noise coming from inside the pump.
2. Longevity.
Cheaper AIOs usually last 2-3 years and high-end ones 4-5 years before you need to replace it. While with air coolers, their life expectancy is basically unlimited. Only thing that can go bad on an air cooler is the fan on it. If the fan dies, your CPU still has cooling in form of a big heatsink. Also, new 120mm or 140mm fan doesn't cost much and it's easy to replace one. While with AIOs, the main thing that usually goes bad is the pump itself. And when that happens, your CPU has no cooling whatsoever. Since you can't replace pump on an AIO, you need to buy whole new AIO to replace the old one out.
3. No leakage risks.
Since there's liquid circling inside the AIO, there is always a risk that your AIO can leak. While it's rare, it has happened. It's well known fact that liquids and electronics don't mix.
I see. Valid points, will stick to air cooling.
The NH-D15 you have, is king of air coolers and you will not get any better air cooler if you switch it out.

Since you're scrambling with time, you could buy new NH-D15 that comes with LGA1700 mounting kit.
Here, i'd suggest buying NH-D15S chromax.black,
specs: https://noctua.at/en/nh-d15s-chromax-black
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/R6...lack-8251-cfm-cpu-cooler-nh-d15s-chromaxblack

NH-D15S is offset to one side, to give better clearance in terms of GPU. And while it comes with 1x fan, you can add more fans to the CPU cooler if you like (for better static pressure within heatsink fins).
I'll check if i can get a LGA1700 mount from the shop i'm buying everything from. Most likely gonna cost me around 10$, but will decrease my waiting time significantly.
It comes down to the price. Going with DDR4 MoBo saves you ~120 bucks and leaves you with 16GB of RAM. Going with DDR5 and new RAM, means you can have 32GB of RAM, while the real world difference in gaming (as you read from TH article i linked) is only ~3% better.
You are totally right, will stick to DDR4, but will probably grab new RAMs. Did not make a choice yet, will see what types they have in stock. Any recommendations?
I do like the motherboard you sent, but they do not have the DDR4 one in stock, it will be in stock in around 2 weeks, which is far too late for me. Any other recommendations, or should i just go for the DDR5 one at that point? They do have those in stock as i see, both the Z790-A and P versions.

I did not mention it until now, but i have an "older" SSD, 2 M2s and a couple HDDs. I assume i could connect those to this mobo without any problems.
 

Aeacus

Titan
Ambassador
the shop i'm buying from is showing the i7-13700k up as a "2.5ghz base clock speed". I'm pretty sure that is a mistake on their side, as it is listed as a 3.7ghz one elsewhere.
Not a mistake per se.

Starting from 12th gen, Intel CPUs have P-cores (performance) and E-cores (efficient) in them. And for i7-13700K, the base frequency of E-core is 2.5 Ghz.
Specs: https://www.intel.com/content/www/u...-30m-cache-up-to-5-40-ghz/specifications.html

Further reading as of why there are P- and E-cores, if interested: https://www.makeuseof.com/intel-cpus-explained-what-are-e-cores-and-p-cores/

They do have the SeaSonic PRIME TX-850 850 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply for sale though. I think that should be good?

They also have the SeaSonic PRIME TX-1000 1000 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply, and it is on a sale currently, so it costs nearly as much as the 850W. It is around 50$ more, which is overall not that much of extra, and makes it easier to upgrade later on, i think? Normally it is approx. 125$ more than the 850W one.

Top-of-the-line PSUs from Seasonic. 80+ Titanium efficiency and 12 years of warranty. These would be my 1st choice when buying a PSU. (y)

Going with 1000W (1kW) PSU, yes, sets you up better on future GPU upgrade, whereby you can go with up to RTX 4080. Only RTX 4090 would be left out (that beast needs far beefier PSU, 1.6kW).

I do like the motherboard you sent, but they do not have the DDR4 one in stock, it will be in stock in around 2 weeks, which is far too late for me. Any other recommendations

Essentially, any Z790 chipset MoBo, that supports DDR4 will do. But when to exclude Asus (who has landed into troubling waters lately, namely their AM5 MoBos killing high-end Ryzen CPUs + poor customer support), it would be hard to suggest going with Asus MoBo. This leaves AsRock, Gigabyte or MSI.
Pcpp (filter with DDR4 MoBos): https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=40&c=162&mt=ddr4&m=7,18,27&sort=price

Personally, i'm using MSI and i know the brand well, hence why i suggested MSI MoBo to you too. Gigabyte MoBos as of late, seem good but i've used Gigabyte products before and those lack build quality. AsRock used to be small name regarding MoBo manufacturers but they have stepped up quite a bit.

I did not mention it until now, but i have an "older" SSD, 2 M2s and a couple HDDs. I assume i could connect those to this mobo without any problems.

Newer MoBos usually come with 3-5 M.2 SSD slots, so, having two M.2 drives shouldn't be an issue to connect to MoBo. Heck, even my old Z170 chipset MSI MoBo (from 2016) has two M.2 SSD slots. :D

Did not make a choice yet, will see what types they have in stock. Any recommendations?
When it comes to RAM, most people buy Corsair since it's inexpensive.
G.Skill is good and has the performance, but usually costs premium.
I'm using Kingston since they have the best price-to-performance ratio. Albeit, Kingston can be hard to find.
 
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Not a mistake per se.

Starting from 12th gen, Intel CPUs have P-cores (performance) and E-cores (efficient) in them. And for i7-13700K, the base frequency of E-core is 2.5 Ghz.
Specs: https://www.intel.com/content/www/u...-30m-cache-up-to-5-40-ghz/specifications.html

Further reading as of why there are P- and E-cores, if interested: https://www.makeuseof.com/intel-cpus-explained-what-are-e-cores-and-p-cores/
Oh i see, thank you!
Top-of-the-line PSUs from Seasonic. 80+ Titanium efficiency and 12 years of warranty. These would be my 1st choice when buying a PSU. (y)

Going with 1000W (1kW) PSU, yes, sets you up better on future GPU upgrade, whereby you can go with up to RTX 4080. Only RTX 4090 would be left out (that beast needs far beefier PSU, 1.6kW).
I'll go with that one in that case.
Essentially, any Z790 chipset MoBo, that supports DDR4 will do. But when to exclude Asus (who has landed into troubling waters lately, namely their AM5 MoBos killing high-end Ryzen CPUs + poor customer support), it would be hard to suggest going with Asus MoBo. This leaves AsRock, Gigabyte or MSI.
Pcpp (filter with DDR4 MoBos): https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=40&c=162&mt=ddr4&m=7,18,27&sort=price

Personally, i'm using MSI and i know the brand well, hence why i suggested MSI MoBo to you too. Gigabyte MoBos as of late, seem good but i've used Gigabyte products before and those lack build quality. AsRock used to be small name regarding MoBo manufacturers but they have stepped up quite a bit.
Hmm i see. Yes, i dislike Gigabyte products overall. Used to have an AsRock mobo, but i fancied the MSI mobos for a while now.
Newer MoBos usually come with 3-5 M.2 SSD slots, so, having two M.2 drives shouldn't be an issue to connect to MoBo. Heck, even my old Z170 chipset MSI MoBo (from 2016) has two M.2 SSD slots. :D
Oh, great.
When it comes to RAM, most people buy Corsair since it's inexpensive.
G.Skill is good and has the performance, but usually costs premium.
I'm using Kingston since they have the best price-to-performance ratio. Albeit, Kingston can be hard to find.
Hm, yes i can see that.

This is the build i am currently considering:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($409.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S chromax.black 82.51 CFM CPU Cooler ($109.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z790 EDGE WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($361.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-4000 CL16 Memory ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial P3 Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($51.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus STRIX GAMING GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB Video Card
Case: Phanteks ECLIPSE G500A Performance ATX Mid Tower Case ($151.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic PRIME TX-1000 1000 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($472.00 @ Amazon)
Total: $1777.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-05-27 17:03 EDT-0400



RAM wise i saw this, in my opinion not so good looking one. To be honest i do not really care about how it looks, i just want the best possible performance.

G.Skill Trident Z Royal Elite 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-4800 CL20 Memory

Price wise they are pretty similar to the ones i picked, because they are on sale currently as well. Which one do you think is better?

I also picked the Noctua NH-D15S as you see, the black fits my case perfectly, and i could add another fan anytime. Especially considering the fact that i have 2 from my Noctua NH-D15. But i might sell that one.

Do you think the current one will be fine temp. wise? Will it be enough of a cooling if it will be running at turbo 5.4ghz?
 

Aeacus

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Which one do you think is better?

Regarding DDR4 frequency, a video to watch:
(Video is a bit old, when 7th gen Intel was the latest, but data is still relevant.)

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk


With this, sweet spot for DDR4 would be 3000/3200 Mhz (i'm running 3000 Mhz myself). And while you could go with 4000/4800 Mhz RAM, performance gain would be slim to none, but price increase is huge. So, anything faster than 3000/3200 Mhz on DDR4 just isn't cost effective.

For example, these two RAM sets, pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/dHjJ7P,CsKKHx/
You could easily save 140 bucks. Or, when you are willing to pay 200+ bucks for a RAM, you can go with this set,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rJ...4-x-32-gb-ddr4-3200-memory-f4-3200c16q-128gvk

So, would you really pay 200+ bucks for 32 GB of RAM, while you can get 128 GB of RAM at essentially the same cost? And no slouch RAM either, but 3200 Mhz, CL16, 4x 32 GB RAM set. :unsure:

Do you think the current one will be fine temp. wise? Will it be enough of a cooling if it will be running at turbo 5.4ghz?

Looks good. Though, you might want to also install 3x 140mm as top exhaust. Else-ways, you're looking at high positive pressure inside your PC case (3x 140mm intake, 1x 140mm exhaust).

When it comes to cooling, and while positive pressure can result in least amount of dust inside the PC case, it is also the worst of the three by creating stagnant air inside the PC case, that heats up. Other two being neutral and negative pressure. (I'm running slight negative pressure inside my PC cases.) Negative pressure is the best since as soon as any hot air is generated, it is "sucked" out of the PC case.

Further reading: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...-fans-and-keeping-your-computer-cool.1542215/
 
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Thank you very much, this was very helpful. Got the build done, will see how it runs. Hopefully my GPU is not fried, but i'll have to see that once this build arrives.
Thank you, again. I cannot express how thankful i am for all the help you given.
 
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I will, thank you. A last question would be.. what type of GPU would you say is a good choice, in case my 1080ti died along with the rest of the stuff? You did mention 4070ti or 4080. I guess 4080 is better, unsure by how much. But hopefully that wont be needed just yet. I also decided to grab myself a UPS, sadly i could not find anything above 1500VA, but that should be fine if its only the PC using it i think.
 

Aeacus

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You did mention 4070ti or 4080. I guess 4080 is better, unsure by how much.
This much, comparison: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-4070-Ti-vs-Nvidia-RTX-4080/4146vs4138

I also decided to grab myself a UPS, sadly i could not find anything above 1500VA, but that should be fine if its only the PC using it i think.

Make and model (or part number) of the UPS is? Since a lot of people get far inferior UPS than PCs should have.
 

Aeacus

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CYBERPOWER UPS 1500VA C13/C14/Schuko CP1500EPFCLCD

That's a great UPS. (y) Slightly bigger version of my CyberPower CP1300EPFCLCD (1300VA/780W, true/pure sine wave, line-interactive) UPS. :sol:

xxG6zjE.jpg
 
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That's a great UPS. (y) Slightly bigger version of my CyberPower CP1300EPFCLCD (1300VA/780W, true/pure sine wave, line-interactive) UPS. :sol:

xxG6zjE.jpg
Absolutely beautiful. Will probably grab a smaller one aswell for the wifes PC. Just had an interesting occurence that i have never had before. Power most likely dropped for a second (UPS did not arrive yet.) and both monitors went dark. Wifes PC kept running. Unsure how, considering it seemed like power was drawn. Luckily everything seems fine, nothing damaged.
 

Aeacus

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Wifes PC kept running. Unsure how
PSU's hold-up time is what keeps PCs running. Albeit not long (up to ~35ms, depending on a PSU). Monitors don't have any hold-up time and go dark as soon as power loss occurs.

Oh, if you think the topic has concluded, here's a guide on how to mark the topic "Solved",
link: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/how-to-mark-posts-as-solved-award-best-answer.3803582/

After you've marked it Solved, topic isn't closed, instead, discussion can continue. Purpose of it, is to let others know that the issue/question within topic has been solved.
 
Solution
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PSU's hold-up time is what keeps PCs running. Albeit not long (up to ~35ms, depending on a PSU). Monitors don't have any hold-up time and go dark as soon as power loss occurs.

Oh, if you think the topic has concluded, here's a guide on how to mark the topic "Solved",
link: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/how-to-mark-posts-as-solved-award-best-answer.3803582/

After you've marked it Solved, topic isn't closed, instead, discussion can continue. Purpose of it, is to let others know that the issue/question within topic has been solved.
I will mark it, thank you.

Hm yes, it was more like a good minute. But i think what possibly happened is that there was a power drawn, the PSU kept the system running, shut the pc off pretty quick, and the power was basically back on in no time. Thanks for all the help anyways. Hopefully i won’t have any more issues :)
 
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You have high quality PSU in use, so it would be unlikely it killing anything else.



Unlikely. However, while Corsair HX is good quality with nice 10 year warranty, it is strange that PSU went belly up. :unsure: My best guess, PSU got rattled around a bit, when you installed your new RAM, which ended up PSU going belly up. Still, this kind of circumstances (a bit of rattle) should not affect PSU, unless during manufacture, a solder joint was weak and the rattle opened it up, causing PSU to die.



Best to return your LPX Vengeance RAM and go with 4x 8GB or 2x 16GB set. This gives you guarantee that all RAM sticks will work together well and ends up you having 32 GB of RAM.


What PSU they suggested as a replacement, if any?


This is a solid option:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor ($309.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-P WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic PRIME Ultra Platinum 750 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.99 @ B&H)
Total: $709.97

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-05-25 10:32 EDT-0400


Few words.
Core i5 is sold for all kinds of tasks and you can OC your CPU if you like.
Did put NH-D15 in, but marked it as "purchased", so that pcpp won't throw an error of missing CPU cooler. Also, you might want to contact Noctua and ask for LGA1700 mounting kit (they send it to you for free).
MoBo is latest, Z790 chipset, which supports DDR4 RAM. For other options regarding MoBo, pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=40&c=162&mt=ddr4&sort=price&page=1
And PSU is top-of-the-line unit from Seasonic. 12 years of warranty and same efficiency, 80+ Platinum. 750W is enough for your GTX 1080 Ti and RTX 4070 Ti, if you upgrade your GPU in the future. But if you upgrade to RTX 4080 then you need 1000W PSU and if you upgrade to RTX 4090, then 1600W PSU is needed.

All 3 of my PCs (full specs with pics in my sig), are also powered by Seasonic. And i also have PRIME Ultra PSU in my Haswell build, but mine is 650W unit but 80+ Titanium efficiency (best 650W PSU money could buy). So, you have options with PSUs; you can go with 80+ Titanium version of Seasonic PRIME as well (will cost you easy 250+ bucks) or if you want cheaper than what Seasonic units costs, you can look back to Corsair and their RMe/RMi/RMx series.
Wanted to mark this answer of yours as the best solution, even though there were many. Unfortunately there does not seem to be a tick, it is lacking the ability to be marked as solved. As i see in the thread you sent me about marking a topic solved, i need to contact a moderator who can fix this issue.