PC won't boot past BIOS anymore

[frankozzz]

I have a problem with my newly build PC, it wont boot past bios. The system was put together two days ago, and worked ideal at start, installed win10 by usb, and all was fine. Then after a day and several restarts regarding overclocks, after one of them it went into a boot loop saying : Preparing automatic repair, and the ssd went into freeze mode around then. Note that it was after a hard shutdown done after misclicking wrong(too low) voltages for oc.

So after that i secure erased ssd, tried to reinstall win10 with said usb again, but no result, it just didnt go anywhere after bios screen, and kept restarting forever. At one point it stopped going into bios even (black screen), but then bios came back after i took out cmos battery of mb and shorted the two pins.

I have tried checking cables, readjusting cpu, checked for bent pins(none), booted with one ram, no gpu, no ssd, loaded usb installer twice with Microsoft tool kit from other pc,and ther seems no blown capacitor either. Oh, and during these loops and all the vents fans and leds are all working fine. I also tried to reinstall win from a dvd, but the same issue remains...asus splash screen to select bios, and after bios press any key to boot from cd-> either frozen windows logo forever or restart to asus splash screen which is also frozen now.

System: i7-6700k, asus pro gaming z170, corsair rmi 750w psu, corsair lpx ddr4 16 gb 2x8, ssd evo 850 samsung.

Any ideas where to go from here, im considering returning motherboard if possible, but could
there be a slight indication of something else being faulty here?

 

[cin19]

Try clear the CMOS by the jumper to see you can boot up the PC or not.
If you still have the same problem, try this: Bench it - Troubleshooting http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-1753671/bench-troubleshooting.html

 

[frankozzz]

I did the jumper and removed battery, which got me to access BIOS, but i cannot start anything else it shows the dvd or usb in boot menu, but when i boot with them to install windows it either goes to a frozen asus logo splash screen requiring restart, or draws a solid blue windows logo, but also freezes from there. On some starts i have encountered it looping straight back into bios. I have also tried with two BIOS versions, one is the default and other the newest. I haven't really checked if the mobo backside touches any metal, but does it even activate bios if it does? Case is Fractal R5, theres quite some room in the back. However the I/O shield does seem in contact with the case, its own metal and mobo usb driver box thing.

Oh and i hope i did the jumpers right, it is the two pins with CLTRC tag right? Touched it with screwdriver edge

 

[Calvin7]

When overclocking fails, you normally clear the CMOS to return to default values. Be sure to disconnect the power supply from the wall socket before doing so.

Software overclocking programs such as Auto Tuning, Optimal Level can increase voltages to unsafe levels if your not careful. If you want to overclock, I would avoid the software overclocking and do it manually in the UEFI firmware interface.

If you want to return the board, that is up to you. You are not required to use Auto Tuning, Optimal Level overclocking software the comes free with the board.

 

[frankozzz]

Yeah, when i put it together i was testing both manual and the ai suite overclocks. I didnt get too good value on manual however: 4.4 on 1.285 and 4.5 on 1.345 minimum and even when i put hose voltages, they didnt hold those limits too well, on high gaming load and stress test with realbench at 4.5 the voltages jumped between 1.3 and 1.42 at random, i read how people get much more stable voltages with manual. Ram was at 3000mhz with xmp. Juts before the first of these boot issues came up, i was inputing a voltage number into ai suite and misclicked enter with voltage limit 0.6v and ofcourse it crashed instantly. Maybe did something do the mb, it should have protection against such things though. SSD also locked down after that.

Before i get a new mobo, i want to make sure anything else isnät faulty. I guess the psu is fine there is no weird noises, powers up well. And both ram are registered in bios and worked well before that fatal crash. CPU looked fine on the outside and pins where straight on mb.

 

[cin19]

I didnt get too good value on manual however: 4.4 on 1.285 and 4.5 on 1.345 minimum and even when i put hose voltages

Can you run the pc without oc the i7? Or how about at 4.3ghz? If the PC does run fine under those conditions, that means either the MB can't handle the oc well or your CPU has the 4.4ghz oc ceiling. This is what we refer to as the ‘Silicon Lottery’.

 

[frankozzz]

I did run it without oc, only with standard turbo enabled (4-4.2), but even then the voltages spiked way too high in loads (upto 1.35, where stock is around 1.25), its as if its missing some limiting option to it, if it exists, kind of new to overclocking not sure. I never managed to try over 4.5, but i was hitting the thermal wall with my not so high end air cooler (80ish) at constant 1.35+ volts. Though yes, the voltage jump to 4.5 on this cpu means it probably wont make past 4.6 if that. Not overly fussed about getting much over 4.5 but perhaps a new motherboard will improve the voltage stability, in addition to clearing the windows install issue.