[SOLVED] PC won't power and but passed PSU paperclip test... what now?

[takearushfan82]

Hi all,
Today I set up my computer after moving into a new place and it won't turn on at all. The mouse and internal PC light which is normally active don't light up either.
I tried the PSU paperclip test and the supply actually did run fine.
Does this mean that something major, like the motherboard or CPU are the problem? 😬🥺
If so, how do I go about determining which component is out of whack? I can only find advice for if your computer is able to boot.
The following are my specs, though my PSU is different now. It's now an Apevia ATX-BT550W Beast 550W ATX.
This computer is so outdated, yes, but my life is a mess and I can't afford to replace larger components. Is there a chance it's still the PSU or am I grasping at straws?
Thanks for your time,
Justin

My specs

 

[Lutfij]

1| That Those PSUs is are an expensive paperweight.
2| Paperclip tests are flawed since you're advised to induce a load on one end of the PSU to get it to start, that test does not tell you how many watts the PSU can effectively output if connected to a full build.

If you can source a Corsair CX450W(grey label) unit, you should be good. However I'd advise on sourcing a reliably built PSU from your friend or neighbor to rule out your other components aren't dead. This helps you avoid buying parts you don't need.

If so, how do I go about determining which component is out of whack?
Source donor parts for each component and then try them out on your build until you come to conclusion that this or that conked out. Start with a good PSU, first.

 

[takearushfan82]

1| That Those PSUs is are an expensive paperweight.
2| Paperclip tests are flawed since you're advised to induce a load on one end of the PSU to get it to start, that test does not tell you how many watts the PSU can effectively output if connected to a full build.

If you can source a Corsair CX450W(grey label) unit, you should be good. However I'd advise on sourcing a reliably built PSU from your friend or neighbor to rule out your other components aren't dead. This helps you avoid buying parts you don't need.

If so, how do I go about determining which component is out of whack?
Source donor parts for each component and then try them out on your build until you come to conclusion that this or that conked out. Start with a good PSU, first.

So before doing anything else, start by getting a new supply? I don't have anyone I can bum one from to try it out and can't afford one until next month. I know, I know, it's sad that I can't afford it but my life/finances are a mess.
I was hoping I could try having nothing connected but the minimum or something like that but I guess it's not necessarily going to help much.

 

[mdd1963]

Certainly when a rig will not even start to power on, the PSU being the culprit is a very strong possibility....

(YOu can remove the GPU, disconnect all drives, add in cards, and connected USB devices, etc., and drop to a single RAM stick, and, reseat your BIOS battery (with power disconnected), and see if it still will not even start to power on. Past that point, you might need a known good PSU to proceed any further.,..
NOTE: If/when you change PSUs, do NOT mix modular cables between units, as these typically very widely in PSU-insertion connection pinout assignments, which can fry components in short order.

 

[geofelt]

If your pc worked before, it should work now.
Even if it has a low quality psu.

First, see that the new wall outlet is properly grounded.
A simple tester like this is not expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-T...AKX3AYE/ref=pd_lpo_2?pd_rd_i=B01AKX3AYE&psc=1

In the process of moving, some parts may have come unseated.

Since you unplugged the psu to do the "paper clip" test, look carefully again at all of your pc connections.

Try starting the motherboard by shorting the two front panel pwr pins.

A new quality psu is, indeed a good objective.
Look for one with a 7 to 10 year warranty.

When you can, order one from a shop with a good return policy.
Expect to pay a 15% return fee in case a new unit does not fix your problem.

 

[takearushfan82]

Okay. What I'll try tomorrow is the component by component approach, reseating, checking cables, etc. If I don't get a good result from that then I'll try to find the dough for a new supply. I'll keep you all posted so as to not leave this thread unresolved. Thanks for your patience everyone

 

[takearushfan82]

If your pc worked before, it should work now.
Even if it has a low quality psu.

First, see that the new wall outlet is properly grounded.
A simple tester like this is not expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-T...AKX3AYE/ref=pd_lpo_2?pd_rd_i=B01AKX3AYE&psc=1

In the process of moving, some parts may have come unseated.

Since you unplugged the psu to do the "paper clip" test, look carefully again at all of your pc connections.

Try starting the motherboard by shorting the two front panel pwr pins.

A new quality psu is, indeed a good objective.
Look for one with a 7 to 10 year warranty.

When you can, order one from a shop with a good return policy.
Expect to pay a 15% return fee in case a new unit does not fix your problem.

Oh, so rather than trying to do all this with the mobo still attached I should remove it entirely? Is that what the breadbox approach is or something like that? I know, I'm ignorant to these things, lol

 

[takearushfan82]

If your pc worked before, it should work now.
Even if it has a low quality psu.

First, see that the new wall outlet is properly grounded.
A simple tester like this is not expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-T...AKX3AYE/ref=pd_lpo_2?pd_rd_i=B01AKX3AYE&psc=1

In the process of moving, some parts may have come unseated.

Since you unplugged the psu to do the "paper clip" test, look carefully again at all of your pc connections.

Try starting the motherboard by shorting the two front panel pwr pins.

A new quality psu is, indeed a good objective.
Look for one with a 7 to 10 year warranty.

When you can, order one from a shop with a good return policy.
Expect to pay a 15% return fee in case a new unit does not fix your problem.

Hi,
Update. I tried a new PSU and my PC still has no signs of life. I checked all the connections on my motherboard and components. I figure it can't be the power button because the mouse would still light up even when the PC is off. From what I can see there's no light on the motherboard either, unless I just didn't notice it.
Should I try to see if the motherboard has any burns, knocked out chips, etc.?
I'm really at a loss now

 

[takearushfan82]

Certainly when a rig will not even start to power on, the PSU being the culprit is a very strong possibility....

(YOu can remove the GPU, disconnect all drives, add in cards, and connected USB devices, etc., and drop to a single RAM stick, and, reseat your BIOS battery (with power disconnected), and see if it still will not even start to power on. Past that point, you might need a known good PSU to proceed any further.,..
NOTE: If/when you change PSUs, do NOT mix modular cables between units, as these typically very widely in PSU-insertion connection pinout assignments, which can fry components in short order.

I provided an update but it looks like this thread got buried. The new PSU didn't help any. I'm at a loss now. It can't be the power button, not the PSU and wouldn't it still start to some degree even if it was another component that's the problem? I'm at a loss now

 

[Karadjgne]

Unplug/remove everything, and I mean Everything except cpu, cpu cooler, 2x power connections and a single stick of ram in A2. Nothing else plugged into the motherboard.

Short the power+/- pins to start the boot/post sequence. All you are looking for is post, which will be obvious when the motherboard cycles the leds.

If you get nothing, swap ram sticks. Swap ram to A1.

If you still get nothing, there's only 4x components that could cause failure to post. Ram, cpu, motherboard, psu. New psu should remove that from the loop, assuming you changed any modular cables to the new included versions, chances of both ram sticks or all ram slots going bad simultaneously is beyond slim. That pretty much leaves a cpu or motherboard issue.

If it does post with those minimums, start adding 1 component at a time, and reboot. One component being monitor cable, not monitor, power led, power button etc. Keep adding components, rebooting, saving drives for last, until you get a no post. Remove that component, and add others.

 

[takearushfan82]

Unplug/remove everything, and I mean Everything except cpu, cpu cooler, 2x power connections and a single stick of ram in A2. Nothing else plugged into the motherboard.

Short the power+/- pins to start the boot/post sequence. All you are looking for is post, which will be obvious when the motherboard cycles the leds.

If you get nothing, swap ram sticks. Swap ram to A1.

If you still get nothing, there's only 4x components that could cause failure to post. Ram, cpu, motherboard, psu. New psu should remove that from the loop, assuming you changed any modular cables to the new included versions, chances of both ram sticks or all ram slots going bad simultaneously is beyond slim. That pretty much leaves a cpu or motherboard issue.

If it does post with those minimums, start adding 1 component at a time, and reboot. One component being monitor cable, not monitor, power led, power button etc. Keep adding components, rebooting, saving drives for last, until you get a no post. Remove that component, and add others.

Hi there. I don't know how to mark this thread as solved but it is. I removed everything and the system booted, then kept on adding more and more until nothing was disconnected anymore and now everything is back to normal. Strange. I must have just loosened something in the move, though I thought I checked everything. Thanks for your advice and patience

 

[Karadjgne]

Follow link in my signature at bottom, explains how to choose best answer.

It's not strange. 1 small bump, like a pot-hole or curb etc can knock things loose, even in the best packaging. Cpus have heavy coolers mounted to them, little bit of shift can upset the pins, gpus can look like they are socketed, but aren't, power connections can look solid but don't get good enough contact etc.

But at the end of the day, you've torn apart the pc, verified everything, put it back together and it works. You may never know exactly what was the problem but it's fixed and if it happens again, you'll know where to start. 👍