PC won't start, PSU problem?

HappyHat

Reputable
Nov 28, 2014
2
0
4,510
Hi,

I recently had to replace my PSU and GFX in the PC I built myself. Now with the new components my PC won't start, but it's been working for the last couple of days.

Before I bought these parts, the problem I was experiencing was with my PSU. Sometimes my PC wouldn't turn on if I touched the power button. I'd have to jiggle the power cord at the back like I was trying to steal a car, and then without touching the power button, my PC would start.

This sent alarm bells ringing so I looked into some new parts, thats when my GFX just suddenly crapped out.

I took it down to my local PC repair shop and the repair guy said the GFX just wasn't work, no signal, nothing. They even took it out and tested it in PC. He also mentioned that there was nothing wrong with the PSU, and he also experienced the same jiggle problem, but he couldn't explain what it was.

So we agreed buying a new PSU and GFX would be reasonable and safe. Invested the cash into buying a new GFX and PSU (which I've listed below). I installed the new parts, and pulled out and installed the new cables along with the new PSU, and checked all the cables that they sitting correctly.

My PC started and has been running fine for the last couple of days, but now it just won't start. I've checked all the cables, everything, and I still have no clue why my PC won't start.

These are my PC Specs.

CPU - Intel® Core# i7-2600K Processor Socket-LGA1155, Quad Core, 3.4Ghz, 8MB, 95W, Boxed w/fan

Cooling - Noctua NH-D14 CPU Cooling Socket 775/1155/1156/1366, AM2/AM2+/AM3, 1300 RPM, 110,3 m³/h, 19,8 dBA

Case - Fractal Design Define R3 Black Pearl fans: 1x 120mm Front, 1x 120mm Back, Sound Proof, ATX, mATX, mITX, Card Reader
USB2 multikortlæser 3.5" black to CF I/II,MMC,RS MMC,MMC Plus,SD,SDHC,miniSD,microSD,MS (Pro, Duo),M2,xD (bulk)

Harddrive - Western Digital Caviar® Green# 2TB SATA 6Gb/s, (SATA 3.0), RPM = IntelliPower, 64MB

SSD - Corsair SSD Force Series# 3, 120GB SATA 6 Gb/s (SATA3.0), 550MB/510MB/s read/write, SandForce® SF-2281

Motherboard - MSI P67A-GD65 B3, Socket-1155 ATX, P67, DDR3, 2xPCIe(2.0)x16, SLI/CFX, SATA 6Gb/s, USB3.0, eSATA, FW, THX, EFI

GFX - Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB PhysX CUDA PCI-Express 3.0, Windforce 3X, GDDR5, DL-DVI-I +DL-DVI-D, HDMI, DP, UEFI

PSU - Corsair RM850, 850W PSU ATX 12V V2.4, 80 Plus Gold, Modular, 6x 6+2-pin PCIe, 10x SATA, 8x Molex, 2x FD

RAM - Mushkin Redline - DDR3 (996981)
 
Solution
It is actually quite easy, so here we go:

1) plug the computer off from the wall
2) open the case and locate the battery on the motherboard - you can't miss it, flat and round and shiny thing 😉
3a) you can either pull out the battery itself for a minute and put it back, or
3b) immediately next to the battery there should be a jumper placed on 2 pins with CLR_CMOS or similar writing next to it. There are 3 pins, but the jumper connects only 2 of them; pull it out, and put it back in to connect the OTHER two pins, wait a few seconds, pull it out again and put it to its original position
4) Plug in the computer and turn it on

This procedure clears all BIOS settings, so they will become default. It also often resolves issues like yours...
It could be a whole lot of things. But first, check the most basic facts, such as:

- does the AC outlet provide electricity at all? Even if it does, there might be issues with electricity installations. Try switching to another outlet just for test.
- is your AC cable from PSU to the wall faulty? Replace it just for test.
- is the switch at the back of PSU switched into position "1"?
- pull the AC wire from the wall physically, wait for a minute and plug it back in and try again
- try resetting the motherboard's CMOS with jumper

If all the above does not help, I would also test with a different PSU just to make sure it is not the PSU that failed. Why? Because this PSU you purchased is nowhere near the quality of Corsair RM 450/550/650W models: RM models above 650W are made by Chicony and have very poor capacitors (yeah, I know that's strange, but that's how things are). Their quality in general is somewhat questionable and they are prone to failing earlier than their more quality counterparts. It is also rated at 850W, which is at least three times more than your system actually needs, a quality 550W from XFX (or even Corsair RM 550W) would be way more than enough as well, while saving money in process (not related to the issue you are having, just saying).

And the last thing that comes to mind is that your case, although an excellent and quality model, might have grounding or wiring issues; try assembling the computer outside of the case and see whether or not will it turn on.
 
I've tried pulling the cables out of the PSU, letting it sit for 30 seconds.

The motherboard is lighting up, and says "we're go for launch" - http://i.imgur.com/vos7Swr.png So I'm receiving power, the AC cable can't be faulty therefore and the AC outlet is giving me electricity.

I have no idea how to reset my motherboard CMOS with jumper.

 
It is actually quite easy, so here we go:

1) plug the computer off from the wall
2) open the case and locate the battery on the motherboard - you can't miss it, flat and round and shiny thing 😉
3a) you can either pull out the battery itself for a minute and put it back, or
3b) immediately next to the battery there should be a jumper placed on 2 pins with CLR_CMOS or similar writing next to it. There are 3 pins, but the jumper connects only 2 of them; pull it out, and put it back in to connect the OTHER two pins, wait a few seconds, pull it out again and put it to its original position
4) Plug in the computer and turn it on

This procedure clears all BIOS settings, so they will become default. It also often resolves issues like yours, and since this is fairly easy to do you have nothing to lose, give it a shot.
 
Solution

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