[SOLVED] PC Wont Start

[Siver12]

OK, I'll get to the issue asap.
My Pc is about 8 months old
Motherboard-ASUS ROG STRIX B550-F WIFI
CPU-RYZEN 5 3600
CPU COOLER-COOLERMASTER HYPER 212 WITH DUEL FANS PUSH PULL SYSTEM
RAM-G.SKILL 3600 2X8GB 16GB total RGB
GPU-GIGABYTE 1660 SUPER OC
SOUND CARD-SOUND BLASTER Z
PSU-EVGA 600 WATTS 80+BRONZE SEMI MOD
CAS-CORSAIR 220T
So Problems started when I got the corsair case and a commander pro. I have 5 RGB fans 3 120 and 2 140. Not including the 2 fans on the CPU cooler. Then I have 3 RGB strips connected to commander pro. 3 more RGB strips connected to the addressable header on the Motherboard.
SO when I got all that I noticed when I first started the PC in the day it started fine. However, if it had to shut down for some reason it would try to start but wouldn't. The fans would spin for 5 secs or so and light up and the strips would quickly light up as well. Also, GPU fans spun as well. Again it didn't start but almost like when a car started is going bad it would have to sit for about 15 to 20 min then start no problem. Well, tonight I was gaming and everything was great. I installed some games to make some room using IOBIT Uninstaller. I use a lot of their programs over the years and had no issues. Then for some reason, the pc went into shut down mode. I'm not sure why I wasn't looking at the screen. Went to start but instead of the fans spinning and lighting up only the lights on the CPU cooler which are red turned on for 3 sec or so, the ASUS logo lit up and the GPU fans spun for a few secs. SO this was very unusual. So I reset the bios pulling battery and jumpers. Nothing changed. Then went through all the components one at a time except the PSU and nothing seemed to work. I also disconnect the commander pro and still nothing. So I ask before I tear it down and rebuild trying to figure it out one component at a time does anyone have any ideas?? I'm so lost and frustrated.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Your best bet IS to tear it all back down, and then rebuild it on the box the motherboard came in, or at the very least, take it all apart and then put it all back in while looking for potential poor connections or other problems at the same time. Then, if nothing changes, replace the PSU.

The one you have now, while we don't know the EXACT model, is of a capacity that only leaves two models it could be. The B1 or the BR series, and both of them are relatively poor quality for a gaming system. Those are pretty much only fit for use in a lower consumption mainstream PC, not something with a discreet graphics card and other moderately high end hardware installed. We see MANY similar failures of this type with both of those units, much like the old Corsair CX 600 units were guilty of. Even if the PSU is not the primary cause of your problem, replacing it with something of better quality would be a good idea. The capacity is fine, 600w is more than enough, but the problem is that those units are simply known for not holding up under gaming system type demands, even with a relatively low power draw graphics card.

The behavior you have describes much like units with one or more failing capacitors, whether on PSU or motherboard or graphics card is unknown, but given what we know about those specific EVGA units, I'd be inclined to begin there. Perhaps you know somebody with a suitable quality power supply you can borrow for testing? If not, I'd try to return that PSU if possible and if it is not possible I'd simply bite the bullet and look at something more reliable with better build quality. They aren't the worst power supplies out there, much like the old CX units were not the worst things out there, but they were bad enough in minor ways that when used in gaming machines the faults were magnified greatly.

Discussion - PSU recommendations and power supply discussion thread - Tom's hardware

Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...

forums.tomshardware.com

Once you have a known reliable power supply, if that does not solve your problem, it will be at the least much easier hopefully to narrow down what exactly it IS. Try the rebuild first though. Very often simply removing the memory, graphics card and other connections and reinstalling them does the trick for no good reason other than perhaps something just wasn't sitting quite right.

 

[Siver12]

It is the BR model and I know that's a lower quality than b1. I have a thermal take tr600 but I'm not sure if that's a good idea to use. The psu is not even a year old.

 

[Siver12]

I'm sorry it the BQ semi mod and it just turned 1 ye I purchased it march 10th. However I see it's a 3yr warranty.

 

[Darkbreeze]

The BQ apparently isn't AS bad as the other two, but it's still not more than a very mediocre (Low end of mediocre) quality and design.

As I said before, I'd do the teardown and rebuild first, before trying to look at anything else as guilty.

As outlined here if you like:

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Siver12]

I know you mention Thermaltake tr2 is not a good PSU but for testing purposes will it be ok. That's all I have

 

[Darkbreeze]

WHICH Thermaltake TR2 do you have? What is the EXACT model number off the specifications decal (Or printed directly on the unit) located on the side of the unit? Or from the box it came in.

There are some TR2 models that are likely as not to be potentially dangerous for use with your hardware, and then there are some which are just not that good but aren't particularly dangerous, strictly speaking.

 

[Siver12]

WHICH Thermaltake TR2 do you have? What is the EXACT model number off the specifications decal (Or printed directly on the unit) located on the side of the unit? Or from the box it came in.

There are some TR2 models that are likely as not to be potentially dangerous for use with your hardware, and then there are some which are just not that good but aren't particularly dangerous, strictly speaking.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MzozPzB7q69hCZJA8

Here is a pic of the PSU. It s Model TR2-600NL2NC that is off the spec on side of the power supply.

 

[Siver12]

If I had to buy a new one today what would you recommend based on what I've told you for a PSU? Somewhere in 600-700watss and whatever certification level, you think. Semi mod is nice but not a must. I don't have much money to spend. Thanks for all your help.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Your pic cuts off the part number in the top right corner. That is where we can figure out which one it is I think because IIRC Thermaltake used the same "model" for two different "part numbers" and one was really crappy while the other was just at the bottom end of mediocre.

 

[Siver12]

Your pic cuts off the part number in the top right corner. That is where we can figure out which one it is I think because IIRC Thermaltake used the same "model" for two different "part numbers" and one was really crappy while the other was just at the bottom end of mediocre.

Your pic cuts off the part number in the top right corner. That is where we can figure out which one it is I think because IIRC Thermaltake used the same "model" for two different "part numbers" and one was really crappy while the other was just at the bottom end of mediocre.

The part number is TR-600. Thats all it says

 

[Siver12]

TR2 600 watts with 5 yr warranty
ATX 12V 2.3
Model TR2-600NL2NC

 

[Darkbreeze]

So yours is a TR-600, not a TR-600p, which means that is a unit known for often barely being able to supply a sustained 450w along with a few other problems as well. I'd avoid using it.

So, what country are you in? It matters, because availability is normally, under the best of circumstances, all over the board for different regions and we know for sure that now and for a while now it has 100% not been "best of circumstances" anywhere in the world due to Covid. So, model recommendations will depend largely on where you are?

 

[Siver12]

Just my luck.
I'm in the states in New York. Upstate NY, not City

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ok, and what can you budget for a power supply?

 

[Siver12]

Well i;m sure it's going to cost over $100 so I'm trying to stay under $120 if possible.

 

[Darkbreeze]

So in that price range, assuming you wanted a higher capacity unit that covers you later if you upgrade the graphics card, I'd probably be looking at this unit at the moment.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($106.98 @ Amazon)
Total: $106.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-03-16 00:49 EDT-0400


But I'd REALLY advise that you try the benchtop build or at least pull it all apart and stick it back together. Hundreds of times I've seen people do that and then just, poof, problem is gone. Not always to be sure, not even a lot really, but often enough to be worth mentioning.

 

[Siver12]

Oh I have it apart and tomorrow I'm going to to test PSU. I have a nice multimeter and watched a YouTube video on it. But there had been a issue prior to this complete shut down with no power up again. If I had to turn off pc for a minute or two, when I hit power button the fans would spin and light up for a few seconds then it wouldn't start. So I'd have too wait maybe 10 minutes before

 

[Darkbreeze]

It definitely sounds like maybe there is another fault at work here, but it certainly COULD be just the power supply. They can act in a variety of crazy ways.

Even so, testing is good, but won't tell you everything when it comes to the power supply.

This is the video I always recommend for testing the PSU, but again, it's not a definitive test in every way. There can still be problems with a unit that "passes" those tests. Replacing any unit that you have doubts or concerns about, especially if it's a model that we've already seen a moderately high number of random problems with in certain situations still seems reasonably good advice.

This is likely either a PSU or motherboard issue, and if it were my hardware I'd tackle the PSU first just to be sure but of course that's totally your call.

Also, make sure and double check the CPU cooler connection to the fan header. If that is not connected or is connected improperly, many motherboards will either shut down after a second or two or not even start up if there is no RPM signal from the CPU cooler on the CPU_FAN header circuit.

 

[Siver12]

So I just put 2 older GPUs for sale on the Facebook marketplace. One an EVGA Best Buy exclusive 750ti oc and an EVGA 1050ti SSC. I priced the 760 for $125 and the 1050ti for $175. Within 5 min I had a guy who was going to take both for $250. I had to be honest and tell him the 750 fans are very loud. So He decided on just the 1050ti. So I told him how I think my GPU just crapped out and he had an EVGA 80+GOLD full mod 850-watt Supernova PSU and offered to trade with me even trade. So I did it I think I got the better deal for sure. Still testing the old me I had tomorrow but going to meet him tomorrow and get the 850 gold. He's a local buyer.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Well, there are a couple of models that could be, as there is more than one EVGA Gold rated 850w Supernova model, but in any case it's got to be better than the one you had. Hopefully it turns out to be the problem.

 

[Siver12]

The one I got I found out the kid bought a pre built PC and never told me so I don't have all the cables. I did buy a Seasonic Prime-Gold fully mod 750 watts 80+ which if I read the reviews is a step up from the one you had recommended. I just happen to come into a little cash from the government!!

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yes, that should be a really decent unit.