[SOLVED] PC won't turn on after moving it up one floor

[Jukebox]

EDIT: Solved! Out of all the things, it was the CMOS battery... What a coincidence that my CMOS battery ran out just as I moved it. I had no prior problems before that regarding it. In the end, I just took it out, reset the CMOS with a jumper and put a new CMOS battery in. Worked perfectly fine after that. Thanks for the help!


Hello! So I had to move my PC to my bedroom to make room for a guest and upon trying to power it back on, it did nothing. The power button gives no noise, lights or response. I tried different outlets and another cable from my monitor. I also tried to power it on from my motherboards on-board power button (Asus X-99A/USB 3.1), as it had a green led on top of it, probably signaling that it had power. Still nothing

Once before I had this same problem, more so that my pc would randomly shut off, usually when something even slightly touched the PC. I eventually figured out that there was a power cable just slightly lose and I tightened it and it worked well after. Now half a year later and moving it up a floor it doesn't want to even power on. I checked the cables and they seemed OK. I reconnected some that seemed a bit loose and were easily accessible, some I did not as they were a little hard to get to and would require me to start disassembling some parts. But they anyway looked pretty fine. I didn't take anything else off, but I did give my GPU and RAM a little push to make sure they were on.

One possibly important thing was that I found one screw had come off my motherboard. It was in the case, no idea for how long. I put it back on and screwed it back in. I also gave the other screws some adjusting, first losely and then tightened it gently (until they wouldn't move without me using more than just my "finger force"). Could the motherboard have gotten some damage or something if one screw was off? (The screw was the most right one, in the middle) and there are 9 screws total. Feels like one screw couldn't be so important.

Any help is appreciated!

Edit: The PC is about 3 years old
Some pictures from the inside as well

https://imgur.com/a/KcJq2We

View: https://imgur.com/a/KcJq2We




PC SPECS:
Motherboard: Asus X-99A/USB 3.1
GPU: GTX 1080
PSU: Corsair RM750x
CPU: Intel I7-6800k
CPU cooler: Corsair H110i

 

[Ralston18]

You have to actually check the cables: "seemed ok" can be deceptive.

Likewise for the cables that are difficult to reach and check.

You must be able to eliminate as many potential issues as you can. Leave nothing in doubt.

Take another look at the screws: ensure that all are in straight and not in contact where a short could occur.

Inspect case and ports: could be the move shifted something just enough to cause a short.

Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it? Or have a family member or friend who does?

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Being three years old, the PSU may have failed in some manner. Especially if it has been heavily used at high end wattages.

 

[Abhinav2005]

Wired issue

 

[Jukebox]

You have to actually check the cables: "seemed ok" can be deceptive.

Likewise for the cables that are difficult to reach and check.

You must be able to eliminate as many potential issues as you can. Leave nothing in doubt.

Take another look at the screws: ensure that all are in straight and not in contact where a short could occur.

Inspect case and ports: could be the move shifted something just enough to cause a short.

Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it? Or have a family member or friend who does?

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Being three years old, the PSU may have failed in some manner. Especially if it has been heavily used at high end wattages.

Thanks for the reply! I took apart my cooler and checked the screws and cables that I couldn't before. Made sure they were tight and fit and nothing seemed broken visually. What do you mean about the screws not being in contact? I assume they can still touch the motherboard, as that's the only way they can hold it up? I tightened them just so they won't move more unless I start using some force. Nothing else seems in contact, but there are some places that may just have some tips touching? I have some pictures here

https://imgur.com/a/qn7qwbm

View: https://imgur.com/a/qn7qwbm


I feel like nothing here should be out of the ordinary, as it feels like moving the whole thing wouldn't really be that possible as it's already in quite tightly where it's at.

I do not yet have a multimeter, nor would I know how to use it. I'll be heading to the store tommorrow to buy one if there is nothing else that I can do today. It's a shame and a weird coincidence if just as I moved it, the PSU failed.

 

[Ralston18]

1) Regarding screws: Timely link - FYI

https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/common-mistakes-damage-ruin-motherboard/

2) As for the connector:

https://www.lifewire.com/atx-24-pin-12v-power-supply-pinout-2624578

Pin 20 -

https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/psu-24-pin-connector-missing-3-pins.3523004/

and

http://support.antec.com/support/so...sing-on-my-24-pin-connector-5v-rail-questions

3) In the photographs I see quite a build up of dust. A good case cleaning is needed.


Also install a new CMOS battery if that has not been done.

===================

Troubleshooting / Motherboard Manual:

https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/...29.2047626223.1577975259-453788094.1569978805

Verify that I did find the correct manual.

Take a look at Section 1.2.6 beginning on Page 1-18. Check the status of all LED indicators and switches.

Also, have you noted any Q-C odes per Page 1-27...?

 

[Jukebox]

1) Regarding screws: Timely link - FYI

https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/common-mistakes-damage-ruin-motherboard/

2) As for the connector:

https://www.lifewire.com/atx-24-pin-12v-power-supply-pinout-2624578

Pin 20 -

https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/psu-24-pin-connector-missing-3-pins.3523004/

and

http://support.antec.com/support/so...sing-on-my-24-pin-connector-5v-rail-questions

3) In the photographs I see quite a build up of dust. A good case cleaning is needed.


Also install a new CMOS battery if that has not been done.

===================

Troubleshooting / Motherboard Manual:

https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/...29.2047626223.1577975259-453788094.1569978805

Verify that I did find the correct manual.

Take a look at Section 1.2.6 beginning on Page 1-18. Check the status of all LED indicators and switches.

Also, have you noted any Q-C odes per Page 1-27...?

Thanks! For the motherboard, I have never heard, smelt or felt like there was such a case as that one topic says could happen with a loose screw. They are all tightly fit. Also for the dust, it was about time for a case cleaning. Unfortunately my compressed air ran out just as started using it. Also, I haven't installed a new CMOS battery. I thought they lasted long, but that link tells that over a year is a long time already. Guess I have to get myself a new one.

For the motherboard troubleshooting, you did find the correct manual. I have the same one physical. The only LEDs that come on are the PWR_SW and RST_SW lights and they are red and green, in that order. Manual doesn't say anything except that if they are lit, it is plugged into a power source.

Also, no Q- codes are being presented, I only ran into them back when I built the PC. Back then it powered on but it had some other BIOS update issues, which I then figured out through the Q-Codes. But the Q-Codes apparently need the PC to be powered on to show anything.

 

[Ralston18]

Clean and inspect.

Use a bright flashlight and a magnifying glass.

Reseat everything. Install a new CMOS battery.

Then see if any Q-codes are presented.

If not, then try testing the PSU with the multimeter. If you are not comfortable following the link in Post #2 find a knowledgeable family member or friend to help.

 

[Jukebox]

Clean and inspect.

Use a bright flashlight and a magnifying glass.

Reseat everything. Install a new CMOS battery.

Then see if any Q-codes are presented.

If not, then try testing the PSU with the multimeter. If you are not comfortable following the link in Post #2 find a knowledgeable family member or friend to help.

Hey! Got the multimeter today. Used it on the 24pin and got all the correct voltages, using this table https://makezine.com/projects/computer-power-supply-to-bench-power-supply-adapter/
Only things maybe worth noting was
1. the -5v (20th pin) was not showing as it was missing the metal inside (which what I understood is normal).

1. the 12V pins showed 12.09V
2. the -12V pin (14th pin) was -12.18V
3. The gray pin (8th pin) was at 4.94V

Is this an acceptable error in the test or? I got a 19€ multimeter and used the range of up to 20V (there was only 2V, 20V, 200V, etc, not 10V as the guide suggested), if that has anything to do with it.

I also couldn't continue with the guide after that as my PC won't start , but I'm guessing as it doesn't, this is another problem.

I have reseated everything except the CPU cooler and the CPU, motherboard and a new CMOS battery. Still nothing

 

[Ralston18]

If the voltages tested within the allowed + or - voltage range for any given voltage then that would be a "pass".

The testing is not being performed under load but will still flag a problematic PSU.

This:

"I also couldn't continue with the guide after that as my PC won't start , but I'm guessing as it doesn't, this is another problem. "

Did you test via the following guide/link?

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Print the guide out and use as a checklist for all voltages.

 

[Jukebox]

If the voltages tested within the allowed + or - voltage range for any given voltage then that would be a "pass".

The testing is not being performed under load but will still flag a problematic PSU.

This:

"I also couldn't continue with the guide after that as my PC won't start , but I'm guessing as it doesn't, this is another problem. "

Did you test via the following guide/link?

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Print the guide out and use as a checklist for all voltages.

Yes, I followed the test, but I can't test after the 13th guide, as my PC won't power on. The power button does nothing, neither does the motherboards on-board PWR_SW button.

https://www.lifewire.com/power-supply-voltage-tolerances-2624583
Looking from this, all the voltages should be withing the tolerated errors

 

[Ralston18]

Possibly a bad switch then....

Turn off the computer, unplug and test across the switch.

https://www.lifewire.com/fix-a-computer-that-shows-no-sign-of-power-2624442

Look at all the Guides but especially the 12th Guide as you phrase it.

 

[Jukebox]

Possibly a bad switch then....

Turn off the computer, unplug and test across the switch.

https://www.lifewire.com/fix-a-computer-that-shows-no-sign-of-power-2624442

Look at all the Guides but especially the 12th Guide as you phrase it.

I doubt that, as I've said previously and as this guide tells, there is a small power on button on the motherboard. I've tried that countless times, nothing works.

I guess the biggest question I have left is can the motherboard be dead, if the power button on the motherboard has that LED (PWR_SW), on top of it, lit up? As per manual, it should mean that "it is connected to a power source".

If the LED doesn't mean anything, I feel like the MOBO is dead at this point.

 

[Ralston18]

No Power On or Reset buttons on the case/chassis?

What case do you have?

What I am trying figure out is the connections referred to in the motherboard's User Guide.

System Panel Connectors....

Pages 1-37 and Page 2-9 (Front I/O Connections).

 

[ohio_buckeye]

Try with a different psu if possible. I've had this happen at work before. When we swapped to a different power supply all was well.

 

[Jukebox]

No Power On or Reset buttons on the case/chassis?

What case do you have?

What I am trying figure out is the connections referred to in the motherboard's User Guide.

System Panel Connectors....

Pages 1-37 and Page 2-9 (Front I/O Connections).

There is, there is. None of them work either and I have replugged all the cables and checked they are in correct positions.

The same buttons just are also inside the motherboard and they haven't worked, with and without the front panel buttons connected.

And if it's any use anymore, case is Fractal design Define R5

 

[Jukebox]

Try with a different psu if possible. I've had this happen at work before. When we swapped to a different power supply all was well.

I dont have one at hand, except my old 450W PSU from my old PC, but I dont think that has enough power. It's not modular either.

Also, I think the PSU was fine as I did the paperclip and multimeter test and it came out good. Although if I were to have an extra PSU with enough power, it wouldn't hurt to try

 

[ohio_buckeye]

Only thing about psu testers is that you can't put a load on them during a test. When I was doing repairs on the side, I just kept an old one around that I was reasonably sure wouldn't fry a system.

 

[Ralston18]

https://www.fractal-design.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Define-R5-Window-PS.pdf

On the front panel there are two switches: power and reset - correct?

With wires that go to the motherboard. Lables (per Page 1-37 of the Motherboard Manual) PWRSW and RESET.

The objective is to directly test the front panel switches.

Unplug the computer completely.

Unplug those leads from the motherboard. Use the multimeter to test for connectivity/resistance.

Reference = Page 6 of the following link:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.freshdesk.com/data/helpdesk/attachments/production/4048228714/original/DEFINE-R6-Manual-v1.4-20180122.pdf?X-Amz-Algorithm=AWS4-HMAC-SHA256&X-Amz-Credential=AKIAJ2JSYZ7O3I4JO6DA/20200103/us-east-1/s3/aws4_request&X-Amz-Date=20200103T185703Z&X-Amz-Expires=300&X-Amz-Signature=2a5eeed3c7086964c19a8bacdd1b97d985f98fed449c80cd3503ba0a29d64fb0&X-Amz-SignedHeaders=Host&response-content-type=application/pdf

You will need two straightened paperclips to insert into the holes in PWRSW and RESET plugs. First one plug then the other.

For example, on PWRSW a paper clip on one side and the second paper clip in the other side. Ensure that the paperclips do not touch.

Set the multimeter to ohms and connect one probe to one paperclip and the second probe to the other paper clip.

Then push the applicable button. You should see resistance go from infinite to 0 or a very low value. If the value does not drop then the switch is likely faulty.

You can "practice" by first just using one of the paper clips. Touch the multimeter probes to each end of the paper clip wire and observe the resistance. You should see the resistance go from infinite (when not touching) and to a very low value (when touching).

If not sure about it all just hold. No rush...

 

[Jukebox]

https://www.fractal-design.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Define-R5-Window-PS.pdf

On the front panel there are two switches: power and reset - correct?

With wires that go to the motherboard. Lables (per Page 1-37 of the Motherboard Manual) PWRSW and RESET.

The objective is to directly test the front panel switches.

Unplug the computer completely.

Unplug those leads from the motherboard. Use the multimeter to test for connectivity/resistance.

Reference = Page 6 of the following link:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.freshdesk.com/data/helpdesk/attachments/production/4048228714/original/DEFINE-R6-Manual-v1.4-20180122.pdf?X-Amz-Algorithm=AWS4-HMAC-SHA256&X-Amz-Credential=AKIAJ2JSYZ7O3I4JO6DA/20200103/us-east-1/s3/aws4_request&X-Amz-Date=20200103T185703Z&X-Amz-Expires=300&X-Amz-Signature=2a5eeed3c7086964c19a8bacdd1b97d985f98fed449c80cd3503ba0a29d64fb0&X-Amz-SignedHeaders=Host&response-content-type=application/pdf

You will need two straightened paperclips to insert into the holes in PWRSW and RESET plugs. First one plug then the other.

For example, on PWRSW a paper clip on one side and the second paper clip in the other side. Ensure that the paperclips do not touch.

Set the multimeter to ohms and connect one probe to one paperclip and the second probe to the other paper clip.

Then push the applicable button. You should see resistance go from infinite to 0 or a very low value. If the value does not drop then the switch is likely faulty.

You can "practice" by first just using one of the paper clips. Touch the multimeter probes to each end of the paper clip wire and observe the resistance. You should see the resistance go from infinite (when not touching) and to a very low value (when touching).

If not sure about it all just hold. No rush...

EDIT: Solved! Out of all the things, it was the CMOS battery... What a coincidence that my CMOS battery ran out just as I moved it. I had no prior problems before that regarding it. In the end, I just took it out, reset the CMOS with a jumper and put a new CMOS battery in. Worked perfectly fine after that. Thanks for the help!