Thermoelectric refrigeration
replaces the three main working parts with:
a cold junction, a heat sink and a DC power source.
The refrigerant in both liquid and vapor form is replaced by two dissimilar conductors. The cold junction (evaporator surface) becomes cold through absorption of energy by the electrons as they pass from one semiconductor to another, instead of energy absorption by the refrigerant as it changes from liquid to vapor. The compressor is replaced by a DC power source which pumps the electrons from one semiconductor to another. A heat sink replaces the conventional condensor fins, discharging the accumulated heat energy from the system.
The difference between two refrigeration methods, then, is that a thermoelectric cooling system refrigerates without use of of mechanical devices, except perhaps in the auxiliary sense, and without refrigerant.
Thermoelectric (Def): Stated as simply as possible, in a thermoelectric cooler, semiconductor materials with dissimilar characteristics as connected electrically in series and thermally in parallel, so that two junctions are created.
==or==
Thermoelectric cooling, also called "the Peltier Effect," is a solid-state method of heat transfer through dissimilar semiconductor materials (bi-polarization). This 'effect' was discovered in the very late 1800’s. An often-overlooked fact is they also generate electricity just like a solar cell. Making one side cold and one side hot actually generates current.
wattage info.
With the different wattages Peltiers, are more watts on a Peltier necessarily better?
Yes and no. Using a 500-watt TEC (Thermal Electric Cooling) on a CPU that produces 40 watts will definitely run cooler than a 100 watt TEC, but it also generates more problems. It will run too cold causing difficulty preventing condensation, generate a hellacious amount of heat (a swimming pool would help here) and most definitely cause your electric bill to go up (and blackouts in California). What decides your wattage (besides the correct formulas to make it work properly) is how cold you want to run your CPU. Keeping your CPU at a temp of 58 deg. F is a safe bet because it keeps components slightly above the dew point (on average). Extreme overclockers will want a more powerful TEC but will need to take extra precautions such as using Vaseline on the CPU pins and foam under the CPU. Using a Peltier that is rated in wattage around or below the heat load will actually make your CPU run warmer. It just can't pump more heat than it’s rating.
Condensation. How real a concern is this and what steps do people take to keep their PC innards dry?
Condensation can be a big problem if your setup is not installed properly. Bottom line, you want anything (metal, plastic, circuit board, - anything) that will go below the dew point to be completely sealed off from airflow. Water vapor is carried in air, and with airflow and cold surfaces you get dew (condensation). Fortunately you usually get a few chances before a death of an electrical component. You will typically get new instability that was not apparent at first. This is due to a build up of water around electrical components. 99% of the time you let things dry in a dashboard of a car on a sunny day and they are up and running again (learned that in the flood of '99 on my GF2 card with a leaking hose). I suggest running things as normal for about 3-4 days and then taking things apart to look for condensation- just to be sure. Some people put Vaseline on their pins to deflect the water. This works is some cases, but the water still has to go somewhere- mainly the socket or the card in your AGP bus.
Actually know what?
http://www.overclockercafe.com/tom_leufken_interview_pg2.htm
Just look there and at the page before and after it and all will be explained.
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