Build Advice Planning my first PC build

[doug_c]

I've been computing for 40 years now but never built my own system so I thought it was time.

I'm looking at a modest build, I've already got my GPU and have about $1,000 Canadian to play with.

Looking on PCPartPicker I was thinking an I5 12500 based system or even i5 13500 with 32 GB of RAM.

Just wondering what people here think would be a good place to start for a first build.

I online game, nothing too heavy so I don't need a system that will run the latest greatest at ultra settings. Just something that will be good for more modest gaming, online streaming and maybe playing with some not too demanding Blender projects.

Thanks

edit- I also have a new monitor, keyboard and plan on transferring a Windows 10 Pro license from an older system.

So I just need mobo, case, RAM, SSD, CPU, CPU cooler and PSU.

 

[Why_Me]

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *Intel Core i5-12600KF 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($259.42 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: *Deepcool AG620 BK ARGB 67.88 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ PC-Canada)
Motherboard: *MSI MAG B760 TOMAHAWK WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($199.98 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: *TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($70.98 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: *Western Digital Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($179.97 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: *Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ Memory Express)
Power Supply: *Gigabyte UD750GM 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Canada Computers)
Total: $965.32
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-11 04:02 EST-0500

 

[geofelt]

What is the make/model of your current parts?
Can you reuse any of them?
Perhaps the case or some storage?
What is the gpu that you now own?
It is the gpu that mostly defined the psu capability that you need.

I5-12500 and I5-13500 are somewhat comparable and very capable.
One good thing is that those processors come with a usable cooler and integrated graphics.
Do not succumb to the $25 savings for buying a F processor.
Having integrated graphics is a very useful insurance policy for gpu issues and makes testing easier.
One can always add an aftermarket cooler later if needed. But unless you are running apps that can load all cores, the heat generated is not excessive.

Performance using DDR4 or DDR5 ram are comparable.
No longer do you pay a big premium for DDR5 ram and motherboards.
Pick a B760 based motherboard of either DDR flavor.
All things equal, pick DDR5.
Intel is not dependent on fast ram for performance.
Buy a 2 x16gb kit, not two individual parts. Ram must be matched.
Matx sized motherboards are usually cheaper.

m.2 devices are easy to install. I would pick perhaps a 2tb pcie ssd.
If you run out of space, it is easy enough to add more storage later.
Do not go cheap on the ssd, it is a very important component.
Samsung and Intel are major manufacturers.
Most of what we do is small random I/O so do not pay a big price premium for a fast pcie device.

Pick a case that appeals to you. Looks count, it will be with you for a long time.

As a first time builder, this may be useful to you:

MY build process:

Before anything, while waiting for your parts to be delivered, download
and read, cover to cover your case and motherboard manual.
Buy a long #2 magnetic tip philips screwdriver.
A small led flashlight is also useful.

I find it handy to buy a power switch like this for testing.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812119009?Description=power%20switch&cm_re=power_switch-_-12-119-009-_-Product&quicklink=true

1. I assemble the critical parts outside of the case.
That lets me test them for functionality easily.
A wood table or cardboard is fine.
2. Plug in only the necessary parts at first. Ram, cpu, cooler, psu.
Do not force anything. Parts fit only one way.
Attach a monitor to the integrated motherboard adapter if you have one, otherwise to the graphics card.
3. If your motherboard does not have a PWR button, momentarily touch the two pwr front panel pins with a flat blade screwdriver.
4. Repeatedly hit F2 or DEL, and that should get you into the bios display.
5. Boot from a cd or usb stick with memtest86 on it. memtest will exercise your ram and cpu functionality.
They boot from a usb stick and do not use windows.
You can download them here:

MemTest86 - Official Site of the x86 Memory Testing Tool

MemTest86 is the original self booting memory testing software for x86 and ARM computers. Supporting both BIOS and UEFI, with options to boot from USB.

www.memtest86.com

Memtest86+ | The Open-Source Memory Testing Tool

Memtest86+ is an advanced, free, open-source, stand-alone memory tester for 32- and 64-bit computers (UEFI & BIOS supported)

www.memtest.org

If you can run a full pass with NO errors, your ram should be ok.

Running several more passes will sometimes uncover an issue, but it takes more time.

Probably not worth it unless you really suspect a ram issue.
Opinions vary on updating the bios.
Normally, one does not update a bios unless there is a fix for something that is impacting you. I violate this rule on a new build and will update to currency up front.
Use the usb option, not the windows option.
If there is a severe problem, the impact is small.


6. Install windows.
7. Install the motherboard cd drivers. Particularly the lan drivers so you can access the internet.
Do not select the easy install option, or you will get a bunch of utilities and trialware that you don't want. Drivers only.
7. Connect to the internet and install an antivirus program. Microsoft defender is free, easy, and unobtrusive.
8. Install your graphics card and driver if you tested with integrated graphics.
You will need to remove the graphics card later to install your motherboard in the case.
As a tip when screwing the motherboard into the posts, give the screw a small counterclockwise turn until you feel a click.
That lets you know that the screw will engage properly.
Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.
The mechanism will be hidden under the card and may be difficult to work if you have not previously checked how.
9. Update windows to currency.
10. Only now do I take apart what I need to and install it in the case.
11. Now is the time to reinstall your graphics card.

 

[doug_c]

What is the make/model of your current parts?
Can you reuse any of them?
Perhaps the case or some storage?
What is the gpu that you now own?
It is the gpu that mostly defined the psu capability that you need.

I5-12500 and I5-13500 are somewhat comparable and very capable.
One good thing is that those processors come with a usable cooler and integrated graphics.
Do not succumb to the $25 savings for buying a F processor.
Having integrated graphics is a very useful insurance policy for gpu issues and makes testing easier.
One can always add an aftermarket cooler later if needed. But unless you are running apps that can load all cores, the heat generated is not excessive.

Performance using DDR4 or DDR5 ram are comparable.
No longer do you pay a big premium for DDR5 ram and motherboards.
Pick a B760 based motherboard of either DDR flavor.
All things equal, pick DDR5.
Intel is not dependent on fast ram for performance.
Buy a 2 x16gb kit, not two individual parts. Ram must be matched.
Matx sized motherboards are usually cheaper.

m.2 devices are easy to install. I would pick perhaps a 2tb pcie ssd.
If you run out of space, it is easy enough to add more storage later.
Do not go cheap on the ssd, it is a very important component.
Samsung and Intel are major manufacturers.
Most of what we do is small random I/O so do not pay a big price premium for a fast pcie device.

Pick a case that appeals to you. Looks count, it will be with you for a long time.

As a first time builder, this may be useful to you:

MY build process:

Before anything, while waiting for your parts to be delivered, download
and read, cover to cover your case and motherboard manual.
Buy a long #2 magnetic tip philips screwdriver.
A small led flashlight is also useful.

I find it handy to buy a power switch like this for testing.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812119009?Description=power%20switch&cm_re=power_switch-_-12-119-009-_-Product&quicklink=true

1. I assemble the critical parts outside of the case.
That lets me test them for functionality easily.
A wood table or cardboard is fine.
2. Plug in only the necessary parts at first. Ram, cpu, cooler, psu.
Do not force anything. Parts fit only one way.
Attach a monitor to the integrated motherboard adapter if you have one, otherwise to the graphics card.
3. If your motherboard does not have a PWR button, momentarily touch the two pwr front panel pins with a flat blade screwdriver.
4. Repeatedly hit F2 or DEL, and that should get you into the bios display.
5. Boot from a cd or usb stick with memtest86 on it. memtest will exercise your ram and cpu functionality.
They boot from a usb stick and do not use windows.
You can download them here:

MemTest86 - Official Site of the x86 Memory Testing Tool

MemTest86 is the original self booting memory testing software for x86 and ARM computers. Supporting both BIOS and UEFI, with options to boot from USB.

www.memtest86.com

Memtest86+ | The Open-Source Memory Testing Tool

Memtest86+ is an advanced, free, open-source, stand-alone memory tester for 32- and 64-bit computers (UEFI & BIOS supported)

www.memtest.org

If you can run a full pass with NO errors, your ram should be ok.

Running several more passes will sometimes uncover an issue, but it takes more time.

Probably not worth it unless you really suspect a ram issue.
Opinions vary on updating the bios.
Normally, one does not update a bios unless there is a fix for something that is impacting you. I violate this rule on a new build and will update to currency up front.
Use the usb option, not the windows option.
If there is a severe problem, the impact is small.


6. Install windows.
7. Install the motherboard cd drivers. Particularly the lan drivers so you can access the internet.
Do not select the easy install option, or you will get a bunch of utilities and trialware that you don't want. Drivers only.
7. Connect to the internet and install an antivirus program. Microsoft defender is free, easy, and unobtrusive.
8. Install your graphics card and driver if you tested with integrated graphics.
You will need to remove the graphics card later to install your motherboard in the case.
As a tip when screwing the motherboard into the posts, give the screw a small counterclockwise turn until you feel a click.
That lets you know that the screw will engage properly.
Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.
The mechanism will be hidden under the card and may be difficult to work if you have not previously checked how.
9. Update windows to currency.
10. Only now do I take apart what I need to and install it in the case.
11. Now is the time to reinstall your graphics card.

I'm running on a five year old Dell 7050 T with an i7 6700, but I'd like to keep this as a backup.

I have an HP Z800 workstation rebuild that no longer functions. The case weighs a ton and the 48 GB RAM is DDR3 I think. It does have a 1,100 Watt PSU though that still works.

Most of my parts will be new.

I'd like something simple for the case, I think Corsair made some nice cases a few year back from what I recall, maybe they'll have what I need.

Thanks for the build guide, that will come in handy.

 

[doug_c]

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *Intel Core i5-12600KF 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($259.42 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: *Deepcool AG620 BK ARGB 67.88 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ PC-Canada)
Motherboard: *MSI MAG B760 TOMAHAWK WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($199.98 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: *TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($70.98 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: *Western Digital Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($179.97 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: *Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ Memory Express)
Power Supply: *Gigabyte UD750GM 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Canada Computers)
Total: $965.32
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-11 04:02 EST-0500

That looks pretty good except for the Intel F CPU. I think I'll add a few bucks and get the i5 135000.

 

[punkncat]

IMO, the best value on a system like that is going to be to go 12th gen Intel or, (bear with me) AM4.

The gains from 12th to 14th gen are fairly significant in some tasks. However, for the best value it would likely be best to consider purchase after the release of 15th and possibly even 16th gen, according to what goes on. In this you have the option to stick with DDR4 or go ahead to DDR5. Prices on DDR4 are creeping and would be leaving some performance on the table if you chose DDR4. If you went full build on 12 now, picked a good mobo and other hardware, it would leave you in a good place to update to 14th gen if the need arises.

In a similar way, you can build a really decent AM4 platform right now for a significant amount less than they retailed for. The bigger issue here is that you really are limiting update options for something 'out of yesterday" as it were. The big thing here being that any of the 5xxxX Ryzen processors are going to do a really good job with the use case you envision now. The money saved, even if you went back as far as 3xxxX could be put to much nicer power supply, drives, RAM, and so on. In this scenario I would only recommend picking a quality mid-high motherboard since there will be no other significant option later on AM4.

You could consider AM5 as well. I would go with the best motherboard you can afford and a Ryzen 5 level such that when the next AM5 CPU are released you leave yourself nice headroom for a significant update. The pricing on this will force concessions in other areas.

 

[doug_c]

IMO, the best value on a system like that is going to be to go 12th gen Intel or, (bear with me) AM4.

The gains from 12th to 14th gen are fairly significant in some tasks. However, for the best value it would likely be best to consider purchase after the release of 15th and possibly even 16th gen, according to what goes on. In this you have the option to stick with DDR4 or go ahead to DDR5. Prices on DDR4 are creeping and would be leaving some performance on the table if you chose DDR4. If you went full build on 12 now, picked a good mobo and other hardware, it would leave you in a good place to update to 14th gen if the need arises.

In a similar way, you can build a really decent AM4 platform right now for a significant amount less than they retailed for. The bigger issue here is that you really are limiting update options for something 'out of yesterday" as it were. The big thing here being that any of the 5xxxX Ryzen processors are going to do a really good job with the use case you envision now. The money saved, even if you went back as far as 3xxxX could be put to much nicer power supply, drives, RAM, and so on. In this scenario I would only recommend picking a quality mid-high motherboard since there will be no other significant option later on AM4.

You could consider AM5 as well. I would go with the best motherboard you can afford and a Ryzen 5 level such that when the next AM5 CPU are released you leave yourself nice headroom for a significant update. The pricing on this will force concessions in other areas.

I don't have any firsthand experience with AMD CPU based systems, and a lot of the reviews seem kind of contradictory. Some people swear by them and some at them.

Looking on Amazon, right now I could get a Ryzen 7 5700X for $216 which seems a bargain.

Something to keep in mind.

I guess I need to figure out how much I want to future proof my system.

 

[logainofhades]

A little over budget, but you get an i7 over an i5. Could go a bit cheaper on motherboard, if you do not need wifi.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-12700K 3.6 GHz 12-Core Processor ($299.00 @ Canada Computers)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($56.90 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($239.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($70.98 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Crucial T500 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($146.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Case: BitFenix Nova Mesh SE ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 PE 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Total: $1013.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-11 18:22 EST-0500

 

[doug_c]

A little over budget, but you get an i7 over an i5. Could go a bit cheaper on motherboard, if you do not need wifi.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-12700K 3.6 GHz 12-Core Processor ($299.00 @ Canada Computers)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($56.90 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($239.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($70.98 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Crucial T500 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($146.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Case: BitFenix Nova Mesh SE ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 PE 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Total: $1013.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-11 18:22 EST-0500

That is a good price for an i7 12700K.