[SOLVED] HUGE GPU PROB LEM PLEASE HELP ME

Dec 9, 2021
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Hi, i have an rog strix scar 3 g531gv gamer notebook. I noticed (2 months earlier,) my battery dischargeing while i playing plugged in. (not just normally, like 100%-to the min i saw was 37% ), after reinstalling the windows battery in device manager this was fixed, and work like a charm, but when i started playing a more graphicsabble program ( witcher 3, ultra modded ), i get reached BRUTAL fps drops like, 50-60 to 1-2, literally freezing. I reinstalled the windows, updated the bios, but not help at all. Only one thing helped me, is undervolting my gpu to 700MV, this fixed the fps drops, but i lost a tons of fps. ( after this in witcher 3, i have 35-40 fps constatly insted of 50-60 ) in here i want to fix my problem SO, i started searching in the internet ( bad idea ig ) and i try literally every solution i found. Re instaleld the whole windows again, reinstalled graphics drivers, upgraded, and downgraded the bios to every version i found. Flashed my VBIOS, under volted my cpu, legit everything but zero, nothing fixed my problem. But
i saw the fps hit coming when i reach 76C gpu thermal, and when i hit that 76C ,its say no load-power limit, and bum 1-2 fps freeze. for some second, the thermal drop down instatly to 65C, and the fps come back, but after 10-15 second when i reach 76(some times 759 C, the dropp come again. I have my thermal limit set to 87C so idk why is happening. I hope someone can help me <3

(after i downgraded the bios, this battery dischargeing come back, but if i cap the video card at that low voltage, is gone, and stop dischargeing.)

PIC: https://ibb.co/595KWgN
 
Solution
Battery is probably fine if it works normally when you aren't gaming. You can run a powershell command: powercfg /batteryreport and see what it says about the battery

The included adapter should have a 230W output, but that doesn't mean there isn't something wrong with it. You would have to measure its output to know if it is working right. Should be able to charge the laptop from dead in under an hour (Assuming the battery will let itself be charged that fast)

There is an optional 280W charger you could buy.

Not sure if there is anyway to do a software measurement of the incoming power, there very well might be. The hardware certainly must know.
Also sounds like you need a larger laptop charger.

i7-9750H 35W-45W, RTX2060 mobile up to 80W, if your charger is 65W, you just need a bigger one to maintain long duration gaming.
I have that exact combo in a Dell G5 with a 130w power supply (I think, it’s that area). I’ve seen this drop a few % when under really heavy load. I’d say it’s needs to be way higher than 80w.
 
Also sounds like you need a larger laptop charger.

i7-9750H 35W-45W, RTX2060 mobile up to 80W, if your charger is 65W, you just need a bigger one to maintain long duration gaming.

Eh, don't the adaptors on this range output 230w? : ROG Strix SCAR III G531 | ROG Strix SCAR III G531 | Gaming Laptops|ROG - Republic of Gamers|ROG Global (asus.com)

Or am I getting it wrong. In my understanding 66wh battery does not equate to output of adaptor.

My own HP Omen is 75wh battery. 200w adaptor output, plenty to power an I7 9750h (65-70w) + 2060 (80w). Same as the ones powering the Strix only slightly higher wattage at 230w.
 
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Eximo

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Although 'TDP' might be 35-45w, actual power draw at even all core clocks for this CPU @4ghz is 65-70w. Most manufacturers set PL1/Pl2 for this chip way high at 80-90 watts.

Shouldn't stay that way long while gaming I would think. Still a larger power brick is the solution to a battery draining while gaming. Assuming the system can be brought back to stock.
 
Shouldn't stay that way long while gaming I would think. Still a larger power brick is the solution to a battery draining while gaming. Assuming the system can be brought back to stock.

I'm not following your logic. Apologies.

A gaming laptop should be able to work entirely independently of the battery. What I mean by that is, that if I remove the battery from my laptop, the system should work exactly as intended and expected ie. no issues with performance at all.

The power brick and battery do not combine to give wattage to the system when it's plugged in.

If anything this points to a potentially faulty battery. And in terms of the OP's performance there could be other issues like throttling due to too low Prochot setting or too low PL1/PL2 settings, and possibly similar throttling on the GPU causing the FPS drop.


Shouldn't stay that way long while gaming I would think

If you mean that at gaming load on an I7 9750h doesn't stay at or around 60-70w at all core clocks @4ghz (all core for this chip) during gaming, then you are mistaken. It most certainly does. I can happily show you my i7 9750h running something like BF V for an hour and show you how little fluctuation in power used. It always pegs at 65-70w. Yes, of course if you are running some lighter games/ you will not get to 65w-70w usage, but for any demanding game you will. And it's sustained. Only dropping back below 45w when you are in game menu or drop right out of a game altogether. You can of course set PL1/PL2 lower and this will reduce the max clocks and wattage used.

To OP. If you are using TS to undervolt. Try change your PL1/PL2 to 70w or 80w. Don't worry this does not mean your CPU will use 80w, only that it can go up to that level, if thermals and cooling allow. By running your chip at full speed all core, you should see an improvement in FPS and less drops.
 
Last edited:

Eximo

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The power brick and battery do not combine to give wattage to the system when it's plugged in.

If you mean that at gaming load on an I7 9750h doesn't stay at or around 60-70w at all core clocks @4ghz (all core for this chip) during gaming, then you are mistaken.

This is an old problem with gaming laptops. If you exceed the power draw of the power brick, the battery will be drained. If you remove the battery, the system will suffer power limitations under a heavy load. It won't be completely evident in all cases, but it is a thing. Can't magically make more power in the system, has to come from somewhere.

Many high end laptops come with multiple power bricks or one really large one for this reason.

As to the CPU power draw, that could very well be true. Depends on what limitations the laptop manufacturer set as well. Full bore at base clock should be the TDP, but if the cooling is good enough and boost can be maintained, yes it can be higher.
 
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This is an old problem with gaming laptops. If you exceed the power draw of the power brick, the battery will be drained. If you remove the battery, the system will suffer power limitations under a heavy load. It won't be completely evident in all cases, but it is a thing. Can't magically make more power in the system, has to come from somewhere

Okay, on this, maybe Ill agree to disagree. And I don't want to get off topic too much. I'll concede it may be 'a thing' on older laptops, but the proof is in the pudding. As stated, my own gaming laptop with more or less this config, has a 200w power brick output. It's ample for the hardware in the system at full pelt. There is no reduction in performance whatsoever, with battery in/out. If it was a thing in the past, or maybe varies from manufacturer to manufacture, I would not be able to say. With all of that said, the OP's power brick has 230w output. So there should be zero need to draw on supplementary power from the battery for any reason, given the hardware. This is why I've suggested it's possibly the battery malfunctioning, which ultimately we are all saying replace :tearsofjoy: Whether as a malfunction, or increased supplementary power not being provided.

I think the OP has some good info from all to go on, and try some stuff out. Hopefully they get a resolution. I've enjoyed the discussion with you @Eximo .

I'm off for Friday beers 😀:beermug: Peace out!
 

Eximo

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Battery is probably fine if it works normally when you aren't gaming. You can run a powershell command: powercfg /batteryreport and see what it says about the battery

The included adapter should have a 230W output, but that doesn't mean there isn't something wrong with it. You would have to measure its output to know if it is working right. Should be able to charge the laptop from dead in under an hour (Assuming the battery will let itself be charged that fast)

There is an optional 280W charger you could buy.

Not sure if there is anyway to do a software measurement of the incoming power, there very well might be. The hardware certainly must know.
 
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