Please Help overclock AMD FX 8350 on Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 mobo

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KidAce

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Mar 2, 2014
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Hello everyone,

I just took advantage of Micro Center's CPU/Mobo combo bundle and bought the Asus M5A78L-M/USB3, with the AMD FX 8350 Black.

Along with that setup, I also have 8GB HyperX (1600MHz) RAM, and an NVIDIA GeForce 8400 GS (with 512MB), for GPU.

I bought a Zalman CNPS10X Performa CPU cooler, and I think it'll be more than adequate to keep the proc nice and chilled.

I would like to overclock my rig to 5GHz, if at all possible, but I'd settle for 4.8GHz or 4.6GHz.

The default CPU speed is 4.0GHz (1.30v), and it's OK, but I render a lot of video, and 4.0GHz is still crawling.

Basically, I'm somewhat new to overclocking, so if at all possible, I'd appreciate as much suggestions as possible.

Thanks so much,

KidAce
 
Solution
ingtar33
ok. first thing you'll need are some sort of heatsink on those mosfets. This is the part that will cost you a little $$.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708012
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708011

here are examples of what i'm talking about. I would probably get the MOS-C10 C1100. There should be enough in just one pack to cover your mosfets. Clean the surface of the mosfets with rubbing alcohol and qtips. use the included thermal tape, and stick them onto the mosfets.

Next go back to microcenter, get yourself a good case fan, then get some double sided tape. You're going to need to secure that fan directly over the new mosfet heatsinks. Because you have a solid cpu...
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Youre not going to have a stable 5Ghz OC on an air cooler, so I would look to 4.6ghz as a good start.

Within your BIOS OC section, increase your multiplier to the desired frequency and then test. For myself, I started with a modest bump in multiplier...then increased by 1 until I got to my final clock. Lastly, I would look at some benchmarks on common utilities (you use) and see what gains the OC provides you. Unless you OC out of personal hobby, I think OC beyond a certain threshold is ill-advisable. Here is a link to a thorough guide:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard
 
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ok. first some comments about your setup.

1) you'll almost never get to 5ghz on an air cooler with a piledriver cpu unless it's a super golden chip. Piledriver is brutal on even the best and most expensive air coolers because of it's "temp spikes". only good AIO and/or Custom liquid cooling is able to handle that type of heat.
2) that motherboard lacks heatsinks on it's mosfets. This means it won't overclock a 8 core fx cpu much (or at all)
3) that motherboard is a 4+1 mosfet design. Again, this means it won't overclock a 8 core fx cpu.

In reality i won't be surprise if that motherboard doesn't just throttle down your 8 core fx in normal usage. it's definitely not a motherboard i'd advise anyone use with an 8 core fx (or any 125W amd cpu).

Now it's not all bad news. That particular motherboard was made with very high quality mosfets. so the fire risk or even the "kill motherboard" risk is very low. I can give you some suggestions which will cost you very little ($20) to turn that motherboard into a decent overclocking board, as long as you're not scared of doing a little moding to it. This isn't rocket science but if it was my board and chip i would definitely dedicate an afternoon to making it all work together safely. Its not a bad motherboard by any stretch of the imagination. it just a 3 year old MB which was originally made for a PhenomII cpu, not a piledriver.

now if you insist i can give you the basics of overclocking that cpu, but understand you'll run the very real risk of killing that motherboard and possibly starting an electrical fire that takes the rest of your computer (or house) with it.

 
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Thank you both for the quick response. I really appreciate it.

I've followed the recommended settings in he URL toddybody provided, and manually setup my Bios accordingly. The thing is, when I increase the CPU Reference clock, from 200MHz, the other values automatically increase as well (Memory Clock; NB Frequency; HT Link Speed). Should I be trying to reduce them back down to recommended settings/values or leave them at the increased values? Also, at what point do I increase or decrease the voltages?

Ingtar33, I am saddened that I won't reach 5.0MHz with this setup, seeing as I paid a little over $350 for the Mobo + CPU + Cooler, combined. That being said, however, I am game to push this rig as high or as far as we can, I'm ready for your instruction.

KidAce
 
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ok. first thing you'll need are some sort of heatsink on those mosfets. This is the part that will cost you a little $$.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708012
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708011

here are examples of what i'm talking about. I would probably get the MOS-C10 C1100. There should be enough in just one pack to cover your mosfets. Clean the surface of the mosfets with rubbing alcohol and qtips. use the included thermal tape, and stick them onto the mosfets.

Next go back to microcenter, get yourself a good case fan, then get some double sided tape. You're going to need to secure that fan directly over the new mosfet heatsinks. Because you have a solid cpu cooler, and i don't know the size of your case, you'll have to figure out the size of fan you'll need. it probably will be 2-80/90mm fans... though some cases you might be able to fit a 120mm fan instead.

now you'll be able to aggressively overclock this computer.

Go into the bios, go to the advanced tab, scroll down to the cpu, change it from automatic to manual, this will unlock most of the overclocking options. Now go to the turbo, and change it from automatic to disabled. Then go to quiet and cool, turn it off. Turn off c1 and c6 power states. Go to your LLC settings and change the cpu to ultra (or whatever that bios calls it's highest setting), and the northbridge to high. jump down to the voltage control, turn off offset mode, and change the voltage setting from automatic to manual. manually set it to whatever voltage the cpu is currently operating at (this is different on every chip, so i can't tell you what to set it too. it will probably be somewhere between 1.32-1.38 volts. Do the same to the northbridge (this also varies chip to chip, but should be somewhere around 1.1-1.2 volts). Now slow down your northbridge and hypertransport speeds to 2000 (note the original settings)... keep them the same speed. make sure the cpu frequency is 200, save and reset your computer.

now you're ready to overclock.

go back into the bios and Head back up to the top and change the multiplier by +0.5 (it will now be 20.5), keep the cpu frequency at 200. save and restart. Make sure you can load into windows. Save and restart. load into your bios and bump the cpu multiplier by 0.5 again (it should now read 21, and your cpu will now be operating at 4.2ghz (21x200=4200). save and load into windows.

Keep doing this until you no longer can load into windows or POST. If the pc fails to post typically it will reset your bios to stock settings after 3 failures... sometimes this doesn't happen. You can fix that problem by clr_cmos.

anyway, once you run into trouble, you'll know what your last good setting was. make sure your bios is identical to that setting. load into windows, download Intel Burn Test - AVX, and HWMonitor. Keeping an eye on your cpu core temp and motherboard socket temp, run IBT on it's 2nd toughest setting for 10 passes. if any result is a negative number the cpu failed. if the program crashes, a negative number comes on any core in IBT-AVX or your computer blue screens or simply resets you'll need to add vcore.

Load back into your bios and increase your vcore by +0.0125V. save and restart, try IBT-AVX again. continue bumping vcore until your system passes IBT-AVX or your computer temps get too high (core temp over 65C and socket temp over 72C). assuming you can pass 10 runs of IBT-AVX without overheating or failing the test, you can bump your cpu multiplier another step. from this point on you'll need to test the overclocks with IBT-AVX until temps stop your overclocking. once you get to a ghz (probably around 4.5-4.8) which maxes your cooling, you'll need to run IBT-AVX on it's hardest settings for 10 passes, to insure you're completely stable.

Assuming you pass you'll be good to go.

Now go back into the bios. turn c1&c6 back on. Save and make sure your computer will post, load into the bios, increase the northbridge and hypertransport to their stock settings (this depends on the motherboard), save and restart, assuming it posts, see if you can't get it to work with the NB frequency at the same speed as the HT... piledriver gets it's best performance from a 2600/2600 setup... but only some motherboards will give you this. I'm not sure about that m5a78, but its probably unlikely you'll get better then 2400/2400 out of it.
 
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Solution
Wow!!! Rock On Ingtar33!!!

I've ordered the mosfet heatsinks, and will be heading out to Microcenter to pick up a case fan.

In following your thorough instructions, I was able to locate and disable the C6 power state, but can't find the C1 power state, in my CMOS is. If that's the same item as the Cool and Quite settings, I've disabled that as well.

Can't wait for those mosfet heatsinks to arrive so I can start hammering at this.

Thanks so much for the thorough instructions. I will post back when I get everything in gear... perhaps post a pic or two.

KidAce
 
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i don't have your exact motherboard and chipset in front of me, though i've been overclocking on ASUS motherboards a long time. So i have a pretty good feel for the bios setup. So if you have any questions i'll help you through it. As for the c1 power state, it's entirely possible your motherboard doesn't have that feature. My most recent piledriver overclocking has been with a more modern Asus motherboard. I can tell you that it should be on the same page as the c6 power state. If it's not there then it's unlikely that board has that feature (no big deal, it's just a power saving feature... the reason i had you turn them off is they can cause your system to become unstable when stress testing an overclock. turning them off simply removes that variable)
 
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Alright!!! The mosfet sinks arrived this AM, I've just installed them, along with the additional case fan, blowing on the new sinks.

I'm ready to O.C.

You've been very helpful, Ingtar33, with all the info's you've provided, and I thank you. Now, the only question I have left is concerning the NB and HT volts. Do I leave them at their default settings or increase them along with the VCore?

One thread I read suggested that if the video or display acts choppy or seems to be chasing, they recommended increasing the NB volt. Not a word mentioned about the HT volt.

Please advise,

KidAce
 
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leave the nb/ht voltage for now. thats something you'll play with if you're overclocking the ram or using the cpu frequency to overclock... it can also help on high overclocks to stabilize. Basically it's not really key right now. so leave that on the sideline till we start to run into crashes that can't be fixed with more cpu vcore.
 
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Hello Ingtar33,

You called it!!! I think 4.4GHz just might be the max my proc can be OC-ed, with my Zalman CNPS10X air cooler.

At 4.4GHz, the HWMonitor shows my CPU temp max at 60C (although it hovers around 53C - 57C), during the IBT test.

Incidentally, I realize you suggested 65C should be the max TEMP for my proc, but you never made mention of a VCore value limitation. I read in a different thread that 1.55v is the limit for the FX8350 proc, but I'm already at 1.5625v. What are your thoughts on the VCore value limits?

OK, so I'm totally thinking of sweet-talking my wife into letting me purchase a liquid cooler for my proc. Is there a particular one you'd recommend I buy for this board and proc?

Thanks again,

KidAce
 
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I spoke too soon... I kept bumping up the VCore value, past that 1.55v I read about (in the BIOS), and managed to safely get 4.5GHz stabilized. The CPU temp maxed out at 61C (using the IBT Test), and the reported VCore value, by HWMonitor, was maxed at 1.536v. I find it interesting that the VCore value I enter in the BIOS does not match what HWMonitor reports. The BIOS value seems to be 0.10v to 0.15v higher. Just an observation.

I then thought I'd try to see if I could get to 4.6GHZ, but when the reported VCore value (by HWMonitor) got maxed at 1.56v, my PC just shut it's self off. I stepped it back to 4.5GHz, so I guess that's the limit huh? Too bad, really, because the CPU temp was only still only 61C.... unless you know of a workaround to get past that VCore value of 1.56v limitation.
 
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Thanks Coolcole01.

So, can it be said, then, that having a cooler CPU temp requires less voltage? Physically, I didn't think those two would have a direct relationship in that respect.
 
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fantastic! i'm amazed you're able to push 1.55V into an 8 core fx on that motherboard. those mosfet heatsinks are doing a great job!

the h100i or Kraken x60 are about at the top end of things.



you're being limited by your motherboard. frankly i'm amazed you could get 1.55V into that cpu through that motherboard, but i think you've found your limits. Thats clearly a temp related crash right there.
 
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fantastic! i'm amazed you're able to push 1.55V into an 8 core fx on that motherboard. those mosfet heatsinks are doing a great job!

the h100i or Kraken x60 are about at the top end of things.



you're being limited by your motherboard. frankly i'm amazed you could get 1.55V into that cpu through that motherboard, but i think you've found your limits. Thats clearly a temp related crash right there.
 
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I have this motherboard and a 8350 i'm at 4.8GHz right now i slapped some heat sinks on the VRM's to help and a 120mm fan over them. It helps but this board honestly sucks for overclocking but it can be done. I run Prime95 on there and it is stable but throttles after so long because of the VRM's and is the only reason i'm not at 5GHz.

Save your money and get a better board like the V Formula or SaberTooth. but if you can only get a MicroATX this is prob your best bet.

8350 @ 4.8GHz 1.45v (Watercooled)
NB & HT @ 2600
LLC 25%
 
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Thanks for the shout out, PhaseOne, I appreciate it. That's awesome that you achieved 4.8GHz. I am sooooo jealous, and am eager to learn ALL of your BIOS settings. Perhaps I can duplicate your settings, and mine too can achieve it.

Since my last post, per Ingtar33's suggestion, I did go ahead and purchased a liquid cooler (the Corsair H80i). It made a considerable difference with keeping the temps down, but its fans certainly are a lot noisier than the Zalman Performa's... especially when I run the 4.5GHz profile, so I keep it at 4.3GHz, and the fan's pretty much tolerable.

What are VRM's? Are they the Mosfets? If they are, then my rig is already set, as I've already placed heat sinks on them, and have an additional fan blowing on the directly.

So, if/when you get a chance, please write up your final OC settings, from the Bios screen, so I can try it on my PC.

It's funny you send this post cuz have been looking at ATX Mid towers that can handle full AXT Mobo's. I'm seriously thinking of buying and AMD 990FX. Newegg.com has an MSI 990FX, that's Military grade. It's about $120, but I'm sure it'll be worth it.
 
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Yeah it will be a way better MB if you get the 990fx. I also have heatsink on my VRM's/Mosfets. I'm using the H100i to help cool and i agree its pretty noisy lol. I have actually got 5GHz before but it throttles way to much so i turned it down i been tweaking it like crazy and have achieved some pretty good numbers since my last post. I'm now sitting at 4.836GHz about the max without a lot of throttle IMO. with a 990fx i would be 5+GHz. I have my NB and my HTT set at 2595MHz, Bus speed set at 236 x 20.5 with the multiplier, my Core is at 1.47v. I'm also using the LLC and its set at 25.8% let me know if you have any questions i'll help where i can.
 
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Thanks for the follow-up, PhaseOne, along with the additional settings and values to try. I appreciate it.

I went ahead and gave your settings a try, but each time, after the Bios loads (with no problems), Windows 7 (64-bit) would not load at all. It kept giving me the message that the Boot Image was corrupt. Not really sure what's going on there.

When I switch it back to my previous OC setting for 4.5MHz, the Windows OS loaded up just fine.

Here's a link of a picture of my current OC setting: http://home.comcast.net/~kidace/current_kidace_oc_settings.jpg

It's somewhat stable for the things that I need to do on the system (video recording, editing and rendering; Web Dev; Music remastering, and so on), but I can never get it to pass the Prime95 Test, nor the Intel Burn Test.

Perhaps there are some values in my current OC settings you could suggest I change to make it pass one of those stability tests?
 
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a couple things i noticed
-your RAM unless its overclocked to 1600 is running more volts then needed i would change that to 1.5v
-Your loadline is set to 100% this is prob way to high (does it boot like that normally?) for now i would set that to auto and use it to fine tune your OC. If your LLC was set to 100% when you did the OC to my setting this is prob the cause of the error.
-Your HT Over volt is high also since you have it set to 2400 and stock should be 2600. For best performance your NB and HT should be the same. In most cases this will give better performance.

My PC is taken apart at the moment or i would check but i'm pretty sure i ended up setting my chipset and HT over volt to 1.2

What kind of PSU do you have? 100% on the LLC is made for top of the line PSU's.

What happens when you run Prime95? does it crash or do you just have failing cores?
 
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