Question Please help with troubleshooting: won’t post bios. Power cycling.

thedocisin

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Sep 24, 2011
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I decided after depleting what excess funds I had and playing trial and error, I’d ask for some help.

Here’s the deal: I had a computer built to handle significant overclocking. Which I didn’t really do any of for years. Then I decided to learn how to do it (about 2 years ago. And I used to F with my settings every so often, just to play around.

Sometimes it wouldn’t boot. Sometimes it’s would power cycle and I’d have to remove the battery to reset the cmos. Sometimes (very rarely, I remember it happening so at least once) BSOD, same process, remove gpu, access battery, sometimes I’d wait a few minutes. But it wasn’t ever bad.

Then, after years of entertainment. I got a very brief BSOD. Which didn’t finish. And the system crashed. Black screen power off.
When it wouldn’t turn on I tried to reset the cmos. The power would come on for varying amounts of times (this seemed to be a pattern/cycle but I didn’t get what that pattern might be. Sometimes 5ish seconds. Sometimes It would be 20 seconds. But shortly thereafter. Like someone unplugged the psu. Dead.

Resetting the CMOS didn’t help. So I unplugged the battery it for an hour at someone’s suggestion.

Then a day.

Then I started to try and diagnose it. Here’s what I tested and what symptoms I saw. The PSU was rated for spec with an overclocked CPU. (800W) But I was running my GPU at like 50% OC. And my CPU (4.2+ on a 3.4 base) and I had like 5 usb sucking power. Other things on the same fuse. Anyways first reaction was “PSU”. Research into symptoms strengthened that belief.

So I went ahead and got a new PSU. Wen through the painstaking process of putting it together. (Not fun)

But I did.
But it was for nothing.

So even after upgrading to a 1000w psu. Same issues. Power loop.

Other things I’ve tried
Remove and re- seated the memory
Replaced reservoir pump and coolant. (Unrelates but wanted to do it.)
Tested for a dead RAM stick separately
Bypass the GPU for onboard graphics.

I’ve now totally torn the pc down. Took off front panel and fan control.
Clearly I’ve missed something.

Any ideas on something else I can check? Or anything I can do at all, outside of buy a new MOBO and cpu?

Recap Basic symptoms:
Power button starts lights and occasionally a burst from fans.
Then Total shutdown.
Sometimes it will stay on long enough to get a Beep like it was going to post. Then it’s like someone kills the power supply: just turns off.

I’m totally at a loss. I don’t want to buy a new Motherboard and processor if it’s not necessary

Specs: W10
CPU: i7 2600k
GPU: 6990
MB: Gigabyte GA-Z68MA (1155)
RAM: 8gGB 1600
PSU: 1000w (800 at time of incident)
 
Anytime you replace the PSU, it is almost like a new build, so running through the troubleshooting checklist is never a waste of time.
Go here:
Work through the steps.
WORK!, not just read!
if you still have issues, come back here with the results of working EACH step in the list, and we will try to help. Since we can neither see nor touch your PC, the information gathered from working the steps help us to eliminate possible problems and common errors. Help us to help you!
 
Jun 29, 2019
18
1
15
0
I decided after depleting what excess funds I had and playing trial and error, I’d ask for some help.

Here’s the deal: I had a computer built to handle significant overclocking. Which I didn’t really do any of for years. Then I decided to learn how to do it (about 2 years ago. And I used to F with my settings every so often, just to play around.

Sometimes it wouldn’t boot. Sometimes it’s would power cycle and I’d have to remove the battery to reset the cmos. Sometimes (very rarely, I remember it happening so at least once) BSOD, same process, remove gpu, access battery, sometimes I’d wait a few minutes. But it wasn’t ever bad.

Then, after years of entertainment. I got a very brief BSOD. Which didn’t finish. And the system crashed. Black screen power off.
When it wouldn’t turn on I tried to reset the cmos. The power would come on for varying amounts of times (this seemed to be a pattern/cycle but I didn’t get what that pattern might be. Sometimes 5ish seconds. Sometimes It would be 20 seconds. But shortly thereafter. Like someone unplugged the psu. Dead.

Resetting the CMOS didn’t help. So I unplugged the battery it for an hour at someone’s suggestion.

Then a day.

Then I started to try and diagnose it. Here’s what I tested and what symptoms I saw. The PSU was rated for spec with an overclocked CPU. (800W) But I was running my GPU at like 50% OC. And my CPU (4.2+ on a 3.4 base) and I had like 5 usb sucking power. Other things on the same fuse. Anyways first reaction was “PSU”. Research into symptoms strengthened that belief.

So I went ahead and got a new PSU. Wen through the painstaking process of putting it together. (Not fun)

But I did.
But it was for nothing.

So even after upgrading to a 1000w psu. Same issues. Power loop.

Other things I’ve tried
Remove and re- seated the memory
Replaced reservoir pump and coolant. (Unrelates but wanted to do it.)
Tested for a dead RAM stick separately
Bypass the GPU for onboard graphics.

I’ve now totally torn the pc down. Took off front panel and fan control.
Clearly I’ve missed something.

Any ideas on something else I can check? Or anything I can do at all, outside of buy a new MOBO and cpu?

Recap Basic symptoms:
Power button starts lights and occasionally a burst from fans.
Then Total shutdown.
Sometimes it will stay on long enough to get a Beep like it was going to post. Then it’s like someone kills the power supply: just turns off.

I’m totally at a loss. I don’t want to buy a new Motherboard and processor if it’s not necessary

Specs: W10
CPU: i7 2600k
GPU: 6990
MB: Gigabyte GA-Z68MA (1155)
RAM: 8gGB 1600
PSU: 1000w (800 at time of incident)
Are you sure the PSU you've bought is actually dead? Only a paperclip test can confirm that it is dead. And if it's not, only a PSU tester can determine if it's supplying a stable and right amount of power.


Unfortunately, that happened to me 2 days ago. Seriously, I've bought another PSU to replace a bad PSU. But turns out it's also busted like the first one (although it's working, it is unstable causing my PC to not boot).

It can also fry your whole system so basically, a fried PSU can also mean a fried motherboard and everything etc etc. Make sure that the new PSU is working properly as it should. Proceed with the motherboard and processor if it's not the PSU.

Symptoms is kinda look like an unstable PSU. here's the symptoms of it based on my experience:
  • electric shock everywhere
  • static wavy line on monitor
  • flickering household lights when PSU is turned on
  • unusual fan behaviour (too strong, too slow, stops and spins again, too noisy, maxed out, etc.)
  • unusual front panel light pattern
  • no boot, auto shutdown, slow boot
  • corrupted hard drive
  • black screen, blue screen
  • surge protector gets triggered (mobo) pointing PSU
  • nothing, absolutely nothing happens.
  • and many more.
But before that, make sure you already done all of the possible troubleshooting procedure like what clarkJD said.
 
Last edited:

thedocisin

Distinguished
Sep 24, 2011
12
0
18,510
0
Anytime you replace the PSU, it is almost like a new build, so running through the troubleshooting checklist is never a waste of time.
Go here:
Work through the steps.
WORK!, not just read!
if you still have issues, come back here with the results of working EACH step in the list, and we will try to help. Since we can neither see nor touch your PC, the information gathered from working the steps help us to eliminate possible problems and common errors. Help us to help you!
Are you sure the PSU you've bought is actually dead? Only a paperclip test can confirm that it is dead. And if it's not, only a PSU tester can determine if it's supplying a stable and right amount of power.


Unfortunately, that happened to me 2 days ago. Seriously, I've bought another PSU to replace a bad PSU. But turns out it's also busted like the first one (although it's working, it is unstable causing my PC to not boot).

It can also fry your whole system so basically, a fried PSU can also mean a fried motherboard and everything etc etc. Make sure that the new PSU is working properly as it should. Proceed with the motherboard and processor if it's not the PSU.

Symptoms is kinda look like an unstable PSU. here's the symptoms of it based on my experience:
  • electric shock everywhere
  • static wavy line on monitor
  • flickering household lights when PSU is turned on
  • unusual fan behaviour (too strong, too slow, stops and spins again, too noisy, maxed out, etc.)
  • unusual front panel light pattern
  • no boot, auto shutdown, slow boot
  • corrupted hard drive
  • black screen, blue screen
  • surge protector gets triggered (mobo) pointing PSU
  • nothing, absolutely nothing happens.
  • and many more.
But before that, make sure you already done all of the possible troubleshooting procedure like what clarkJD said.
Turns out the old PSU, and new are both fine. That’s was me irresponsibly trying to diagnose the problem without being sure. Thanks for the reply. Wish I’d seen this info before dropping the $ on a new one!
 

thedocisin

Distinguished
Sep 24, 2011
12
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18,510
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Thanks for the response.


Is there a reliable way to test a motherboard?

finding a mobo for an 1155 socket is probably going to be a pain in the ass..
In case it wil help:

Case: Corsair Carbide 400R
MOBO: Gigabyte Z68MA-D2H-b3 (rev 1.3)
CPU: Intel Core i7 2600k
-OC’d to ~4.3
GPU: AMD Radeon HD 6990
- OC’d and +50% Power
HDD: Seagate 2TB HDD
SSD: Samsung 120GB SSD
RAM: 8GB Kingston 1866*
Cooling: Corsair 280mm Dual fan Liquid
NZXT Sentry fan controller (6 fans total)
FireWire 1394 PCIe

USB:
External, powered 15ft cable to Netgear AC1200 WiFi Adapter
Keyboard and mouse both w/ rgb
Always had my phone plugged in
Powered Headphones

Suggested wattage was 800+
Figured if I’m going to replace it, might as well make sure she’s never starved for power.
Sounds to me like your MB died.

Just curious, but what makes you think you need a 1000W PSU(or even 800!)?
COMPLETE system specs(Brands, makes, models, capacities, etc.) may be helpful at this time.

Is there a reliable way to test a motherboard?



finding a mobo for an 1155 socket is probably going to be a pain in the ass..

In case it wil help:



Case: Corsair Carbide 400R

MOBO: Gigabyte Z68MA-D2H-b3 (rev 1.3)

CPU: Intel Core i7 2600k

-OC’d to ~4.3

GPU: AMD Radeon HD 6990

- OC’d and +50% Power

HDD: Seagate 2TB HDD

SSD: Samsung 120GB SSD

RAM: 8GB Kingston 1866*

Cooling: Corsair 280mm Dual fan Liquid

NZXT Sentry fan controller (6 fans total)

FireWire 1394 PCIe



USB:

External, powered 15ft cable to Netgear AC1200 WiFi Adapter

Keyboard and mouse both w/ rgb

Always had my phone plugged in

Powered Headphones



Suggested wattage was 800+

Figured if I’m going to replace it, might as well make sure she’s never starved for power.
 

thedocisin

Distinguished
Sep 24, 2011
12
0
18,510
0
Anytime you replace the PSU, it is almost like a new build, so running through the troubleshooting checklist is never a waste of time.
Go here:
Work through the steps.
WORK!, not just read!
if you still have issues, come back here with the results of working EACH step in the list, and we will try to help. Since we can neither see nor touch your PC, the information gathered from working the steps help us to eliminate possible problems and common errors. Help us to help you!

I appreciate it in a big way.

I’ll run through the list and see what I can get.
 

thedocisin

Distinguished
Sep 24, 2011
12
0
18,510
0
Anytime you replace the PSU, it is almost like a new build, so running through the troubleshooting checklist is never a waste of time.
Go here:
Work through the steps.
WORK!, not just read!
if you still have issues, come back here with the results of working EACH step in the list, and we will try to help. Since we can neither see nor touch your PC, the information gathered from working the steps help us to eliminate possible problems and common errors. Help us to help you!
Ok, so for some of the stuff- I had already checked, but for sake of fixing this, I made sure. Some of it wasn’t applicable. But for the most part I only had a question about running the CPU alone on the board. But here’s the result of the checklist.

Note: the build was working up until I wad toying with my gpu overclock (I think) I got a BSOD, and during or immediately following the BSOD the system shutdown and since then would not reboot.
  1. I did read the mobo docs available online. Trying to find out what a faulty mobo acted like before I bought the psu
  2. Connector is in (4pin) properly
  3. N/A
  4. Attempted with & without video card & multiple attempts.
  5. Power applied correctly to GPU ✔
  6. I did run through to see if any stick of ram was faulty. I did try each stick individually •• not for nothing that info about the mobo not properly providing the 1.65 (the way my XMP profile had it) is news to me. I did have it set on auto the majority of the time. It’s surprising to me that info isn't made available more often. Kudos!
  7. I did reseat each stick of ram
  8. - did not try to install ram in any specific order. This wasn’t outlined in any of the docs I read. After searching for the info- didn’t seem to apply to my model/Couldn’t find the “proper order” reseated anyway from furthest RAM Slot
  9. N/A
  10. N/A
  11. N/A
  12. Maybe a month ago I reapplied new thermal paste. No excess amounts, just checked.
  13. There is A fan plugged in to the CPU..
  14. N/A
  15. There were (are) temp sensors that run from the fan controller not run under the MoBo but they’re placed strategically via back plate access.
  16. I was aware of the risk. I was not overly cautious.
  17. System speaker is installed
  18. Yes this was a pain in the ass for mine.
  19. C’mon -_-
  20. Yes
  21. Yes
  22. Yes, I’ve tried booting via on board graphics. No love.
  23. Yes
Pull everything except the CPU and HSF. Boot.”

- when you say everything: usb plugs/3.5/LED too? Whole front panel access?

These beeps (if exist) are part of a specific “code” system that’s unique t the board mfg?

Thanks for all your help!!!!!
 
Jun 29, 2019
18
1
15
0
Ok, so for some of the stuff- I had already checked, but for sake of fixing this, I made sure. Some of it wasn’t applicable. But for the most part I only had a question about running the CPU alone on the board. But here’s the result of the checklist.

Note: the build was working up until I wad toying with my gpu overclock (I think) I got a BSOD, and during or immediately following the BSOD the system shutdown and since then would not reboot.
  1. I did read the mobo docs available online. Trying to find out what a faulty mobo acted like before I bought the psu
  2. Connector is in (4pin) properly
  3. N/A
  4. Attempted with & without video card & multiple attempts.
  5. Power applied correctly to GPU ✔
  6. I did run through to see if any stick of ram was faulty. I did try each stick individually •• not for nothing that info about the mobo not properly providing the 1.65 (the way my XMP profile had it) is news to me. I did have it set on auto the majority of the time. It’s surprising to me that info isn't made available more often. Kudos!
  7. I did reseat each stick of ram
  8. - did not try to install ram in any specific order. This wasn’t outlined in any of the docs I read. After searching for the info- didn’t seem to apply to my model/Couldn’t find the “proper order” reseated anyway from furthest RAM Slot
  9. N/A
  10. N/A
  11. N/A
  12. Maybe a month ago I reapplied new thermal paste. No excess amounts, just checked.
  13. There is A fan plugged in to the CPU..
  14. N/A
  15. There were (are) temp sensors that run from the fan controller not run under the MoBo but they’re placed strategically via back plate access.
  16. I was aware of the risk. I was not overly cautious.
  17. System speaker is installed
  18. Yes this was a pain in the ass for mine.
  19. C’mon -_-
  20. Yes
  21. Yes
  22. Yes, I’ve tried booting via on board graphics. No love.
  23. Yes
Pull everything except the CPU and HSF. Boot.”

- when you say everything: usb plugs/3.5/LED too? Whole front panel access?

These beeps (if exist) are part of a specific “code” system that’s unique t the board mfg?

Thanks for all your help!!!!!
Turns out the old PSU, and new are both fine. That’s was me irresponsibly trying to diagnose the problem without being sure. Thanks for the reply. Wish I’d seen this info before dropping the $ on a new one!
Done with all of the protocol in troubleshooting a PC? If it's not the PSU, move to the motherboard and processor.

  • Check out for faulty capacitors, common signs that you can see with your bare eyes.
  • Listen to the beep sounds it makes if you have a mobo speaker.
  • Use that motherboard to other machine without the processor, if it carried the problems then it's the motherboard. Do the same with the processor without the mobo, if it carried the same problem then, it's the processor.

    it is really helpful if you have spare machine that you can test the faulty parts with. If you don't have, ask a friend to help you out if your parts is compatible.
All you need to do is to successfully boot. If it boots, you found the problem.
 
The checklist assumes that all of your components are working, so the result of working the list will be a functioning computer. Towards the bottom of the list there are addiional procedures to try if the original 23 steps don't resolve the issue. If you can, try the breadboarding steps. If you still have issues after that, then IMHO you have a dead motherboard, as usually a motheroard will fail before a CPU. As you mentioned, they are not making any new 1155 socket motherboards, so the used market (along with its inherant risks!) will be your only source. At this point, I would not recommend spending any more money on such an old system. It is time to start looking at a new build.
 
Jun 29, 2019
18
1
15
0
The checklist assumes that all of your components are working, so the result of working the list will be a functioning computer. Towards the bottom of the list there are addiional procedures to try if the original 23 steps don't resolve the issue. If you can, try the breadboarding steps. If you still have issues after that, then IMHO you have a dead motherboard, as usually a motheroard will fail before a CPU. As you mentioned, they are not making any new 1155 socket motherboards, so the used market (along with its inherant risks!) will be your only source. At this point, I would not recommend spending any more money on such an old system. It is time to start looking at a new build.
I agree with @clarkjd , it's like keeping an AM3, DDR3 (athlon, phenom build) while everyone else is already at AM4, DDR4 (ryzen).. My machine failed a lot of parts already aside from the mobo, I'm planning to get a ryzen build before it gives up on me or else that would be disastrous to my work and business as buying new AM3 parts is pretty useless, pointless and tiring nowadays.

I hope you get the point.
 
Last edited:

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