Primers and undercoating

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

The original reason for priming a figure was to prevent lead rot. This was a
condition caused by the solvent and lead creating a chemical reaction, thus
"lead rot". When using water based paint there is no reason to "prime" a
figure. Years ago most gamers were using solvent based paints and it could
become a major problem. Since many gamers now used water based paints its no
longer a factor.
Undercoating is a different problem. Adding an undercoat provides a base to
apply the paint to. Sometimes the paint dosn't stick to a metal or even a
plastic suface because its so smooth. Espcially using waterbased paint. By
adding a "primer" it leaves a surface that is not a slick. The second reason
for an undercoat is since most paints are not opaque the undercoat shows
through somewhat. For brighter figures an undercoat of white will brighten the
surface colors. Yellow is very hard to cover with most paints therefor an
undercoat of white will not only brighten the color but ensure that in most
cases only one coat is needed. Why anyone would undercoat with black is beyond
me. Black would make the figure look dingy and dark.
I was commecial artist for 30 years before I retired and paint and color was
my buisness. I have been using Cartoon Colors for painting figure now for
years. I stumbled onto them through work. They are totally opaque and do not
flake with age. I undercoat with white to add to the brightness of the colors.
Works for me.
R.

 

[jay]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

On 28 Aug 2004 12:55:16 GMT, ddetmer89@aol.com (DDetmer89) wrote:

> Undercoating is a different problem. Adding an undercoat provides a base to
>apply the paint to. Sometimes the paint dosn't stick to a metal or even a
>plastic suface because its so smooth. Espcially using waterbased paint. By
>adding a "primer" it leaves a surface that is not a slick. The second reason
>for an undercoat is since most paints are not opaque the undercoat shows
>through somewhat. For brighter figures an undercoat of white will brighten the
>surface colors. Yellow is very hard to cover with most paints therefor an
>undercoat of white will not only brighten the color but ensure that in most
>cases only one coat is needed. Why anyone would undercoat with black is beyond
>me. Black would make the figure look dingy and dark.

I undercoat with black, and then add a coat of white with a heavy
dry-brush. This deepends the shadow in the folds of the figures, and
brightens the highlights. It adds a bit of time to the job, but not
much. I'm not a fan of washes, so the dark undercoat achieves the
effect I'm looking for without having to use a wash.

I will undercoat with white for certain applications, but even for
Austrian Napoleonic infantry I use the white-on-black undercoat before
adding the main uniform colour (granted, I haven't tried this with
25mm, so the effect may differ.)

Jay
Jay

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.historical (More info?)

>I was commecial artist for 30 years before I retired and paint and color was
>my buisness. I have been using Cartoon Colors for painting figure now for
>years. I stumbled onto them through work. They are totally opaque and do not
>flake with age. I undercoat with white to add to the brightness of the
>colors.
>Works for me

Here's some questions for you:
What colors/color combinations would you recommend for US, UK (late and early
war), French(early war), German (late and early war) and Japanese WWII uniforms
- using Cartoon colors?

I use them (Cartoon Colors)to "prime/ undercoat" my soft plastic figures
(Napoleonics only, thus far) and it seems to work well.

Thanks,

Mike