Problem Using Internet with ActionTec ECB2500C Coax-over-Ethernet MoCA Adapters

[BigBaron]

Good Afternoon. The forums in this website have been very helpful to me in the past, so I was wondering whether or not I could find some assistance as to establishing a connection with my MoCA adapter.


My Situation:

My overall objective is to improve the reliability of my connection to the internet. Initially, I’ve been relying on a DW1525 (802.11n) WLAN PCIe Card (in other words, the default wireless card that came with the PC) for a wireless connection. There are times, however, when the connection just dies, and I am forced to go into Control Panel --> Network and Internet --> Network and Sharing Center --> Change Adapter Settings and use “Diagnose this connection” in order to refresh it. As a side note, it isn’t uncommon for this method to fail, at which point I just restart the computer. And then sometimes, the reboot doesn’t even do it either! Add to this the fact that I have to compete with my siblings who use a smartphone and iPhone 5, which almost certainly contribute to some pretty bad lag spikes at times. The point is, I would like the peace of mind that comes with a wired connection so that I do not have to interrupt my games (or other activities for that matter).

So on that note, I did a little research and decided to purchase the Coax-over-Ethernet MoCA adapter (paired) to take advantage of the coax port coming out of the wall in the office room where the computer is located. So I’ve set the two of them up (i.e. one connected to my gateway and one connected to my computer), and something interesting has happened. The connection is clearly there (that is, I’m 99.999% positive I’ve hooked it up correctly, lol), but it has been labeled an “Unidentified Network” and not actually giving me access to the internet. I also notice the green “Coax” light is not on, but the “Power” and “Ethernet” lights are. In addition, when I flip the switch in the back of the hardware to “Config”, it is the “Coax” and “Ethernet” lights that are on and the “Power” light that is off. I know that there is at least something because I see packets have been sent though not received when I right-click and check “Status”, and there is no little red ‘X’ denoting a break in the connection. I feel like the solution I am looking for is just outside the reach of my fingertips...


My Hardware:

Gateway: 2Wire 3800HGV-B

MoCA Adapters: ECB2500C (x2)
- have black coax cable between “Cable Line” port on gateway and “Coax In” port in MoCA adapter
- have black coax cable between “Coax Out” port on adapter and port coming from wall (router is located downstairs, diametrically opposed from upstairs office room)
- have Ethernet cable between adapter and router
- have white coax cable between port in wall in office room and “Coax In” port on adapter near the computer
- have Ethernet cable from adapter in office room to computer
- the “Cable Line” port in the router affects the cable signal to the television in the entertainment room, so I know I at least have something set up correctly (otherwise, the TV would not have a signal)

Wireless Card: DW1525 (802.11n) WLAN PCIe Card

PC: Dell Inspiron 580
- i5-650, 3.20GHz
- 8GB RAM


My Software:

OS: Windows 7 Home Premium
- 64-bit

Subscription: AT&T UVerse



One Last Question: Is there any significant difference between white coax cables and black ones? Whenever I go to Home Depot, I notice that the white cable cost more than the black ones.

 

[Tom Tancredi]

Good Afternoon. The forums in this website have been very helpful to me in the past, so I was wondering whether or not I could find some assistance as to establishing a connection with my MoCA adapter.


My Situation:

My overall objective is to improve the reliability of my connection to the internet. Initially, I’ve been relying on a DW1525 (802.11n) WLAN PCIe Card (in other words, the default wireless card that came with the PC) for a wireless connection. There are times, however, when the connection just dies, and I am forced to go into Control Panel --> Network and Internet --> Network and Sharing Center --> Change Adapter Settings and use “Diagnose this connection” in order to refresh it. As a side note, it isn’t uncommon for this method to fail, at which point I just restart the computer. And then sometimes, the reboot doesn’t even do it either! Add to this the fact that I have to compete with my siblings who use a smartphone and iPhone 5, which almost certainly contribute to some pretty bad lag spikes at times. The point is, I would like the peace of mind that comes with a wired connection so that I do not have to interrupt my games (or other activities for that matter).
.

I want to stop you right here for a very good reason, unless you get your OWN individual Internet service provider to just YOUR room, your siblings or even your parents or ANYONE's else's products will still "interrupt" your games. The problem isn't 100% the wireless but the 'management' of your Internet, which WILL include discussing things with the ENTIRE family (don't want to hose up Mom's Vampire Diaries episodes on Netflix do you?).

First and foremost what is your Internet? Satellite? CableTV? DSL? FIOS?
- Your saying AT&T UVerse which is normally DSL (telephone) service but identified a 2Wire 3800HGV-B and asking about COAX which the 2Wire is NOT a CableTV signal disbursement device http://www.2wire.com/pages/pdfs/5100-000383-000_2W_Rev_B_0107.pdf

What speeds does your contract 'provide'?

Who owns the router? - Assuming AT&T but want to confirm as that means your NOT going to have any options UNLESS you call AT&T for assistance and you have to be very specific and knowledgable

Counting your computer, the iPhone and smartphone, how many other 'phones', laptops, Xboxes, Vitas, tablets, etc. (COUNT EVERYTHING) in the home. Whether you believe or not it 'gets Wifi' or isn't used on the Internet doesn't matter.

How many "OTHER" wireless sources do you see when you click on the Wirelessly icon in the tray of your computer, OR when your siblings / you walk around with a mobile device (Tablet, iPhone, Laptop, etc.)?

Once we got this in hand I can make a few better assessments for you, wirelessly.


To answer directly your initial "COAX" problem: http://www.2wire.com/pages/pdfs/5100-000383-000_2W_Rev_B_0107.pdf "Flexible Networking Options Multimedia Coaxial Networking interface for video distribution in the home". The 2Wire Coax is ONLY to distribute video content sent via the VDSL into the 2Wire, then 'split off' the 2Wire to your Home TV. It does NOT provide INTERNET services, so your COAX solution will not work. Internet is only provided via Ethernet port OR Wifi.

 

[abailey]

Ok you may have to use a splitter, but first try it this way.
Connect your Router "Cable Line" coax to the OUT on the MOCA adapter (I know it is counter intuitive)
Connect the MOCA COAX IN to the wall COAX jack
Now on the other end connect the wall COAX outlet to the MOCA IN (as you have it now).
See if this works. If it does not work, disconnect (just to test) the COAX from the Router to the MOCA device and try again.
Does not matter if you use a white or black cable. Many times the white are more expensive because they are in higher demand when wiring inside the house (where wires can be seen). That being said I would try to always use RG6 COAX cable.
I use the ECB2500C MOCA adapters in my house and have been very happy with them.

 

[abailey]

I just looked up your 2Wire 3800HGV-B and see it uses HPNA 3.1. This means two things. First the way I told you to hook up the MOCA adapters should work. Now if you can return the MOCA adapters you could save money by purchasing just one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00684E0UI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=ESH21VESZ1JF&coliid=I76NY95B17XB1 for your room as the 2Wire 3800HGV-B has one built in (using its "cable line" port).

 

[BigBaron]

RE: Tom Tancredi

- I've got an RJ-11 coming out of the baseboard (no wall port) and into the "Phone Line" port on my router, so I'm assuming that it is DSL.
- I have no idea what speeds my contract provides.
- At&T owns the router.
- Other Devices to the best of my knowledge:

• Me:
  PC
  Toshiba Laptop
  iPod Touch 4th Gen
  Nintendo DS

• Sister:
  HP Pavilion
  iPhone 5

• Brother:
  XBox 360
  LG G2

• Dad:
  Dell Latitude
  HP Pavilion

• Mom:
  Dell Inspiron Laptop

- I see about 13 other wireless networks when examining the icon in the tray. Curious, that.

- I plan on posing the same question to both AT&T and Actiontec.


RE: abailey

- It's been two weeks since I bought these, plus I bought them from Amazon. So I don't whether or not I even can return them, let alone how to return them. I'd still be willing to buy the other thing regardless, however.

- Tom Tancredi is telling me that I won't be able to get anything through my coax port, yet you think that it might be possible with the TRENDnet Mid Band Coax Adapter. What do you think accounts for this difference in opinion?

- If you're a "Wireless Expert", then why don't you have a cool, non-generic photo like Tom does?

 

[Tom Tancredi]

DO NOT SKIP BECAUSE IT IS SOOOO LONG, all this information EXPLAINS -- WHY--- and it isn't just 'one' thing you can just 'turn on / turn off' solution. PLEASE Take the time to REALLY read what I say.

RE: Tom Tancredi
- I've got an RJ-11 coming out of the baseboard (no wall port) and into the "Phone Line" port on my router, so I'm assuming that it is DSL.

RJ 11 aka Telephone wire is DSL. Also your on VDSL which is the new 'virtual DSL'. This means that you and a bunch of other people are all 'bundled' together as a 'on demand' not actually 'TURNED ALL ALL THE TIME' Internet services. This allows AT&T to OVERSELL (think overbooking a airplane) since not 'everyone' will be using the Internet ALL 60 seconds of ever minute, of ALL 60 Minutes in every hour or ALL 24 hours in a day (OLD school thinking) . So they can have more 'customers' on the same LIMITED pipe, and just use some fancy mathematical formulas to 'provision' from one second to another your house use based on just a couple (2 or 3) computers being used 'some of the day'.

- I have no idea what speeds my contract provides.

Well according to here, the normal bundle they sell is a measly 18Mbps http://www.att.com/shop/internet.html#fbid=f2GWPUtlkg9
The best speed you could ever get for ENTIRE HOUSE connected to the WORLD is 45Mbps. So unless your parents have 'upped' themselves to most expensive package, you're getting 1/3 the max speed possible. Now the positive side was that DSL guaranteed you will have a 18/45Mbps pipe dedicated to your house, so your 'speed' IS 45/18/etc. your paying for. VDSL doesn't do that anymore (as I noted) and only provides the pipe 'on demand'. So you're going basically 0 speed until you 'need a pipe' then they open up a 45/18/etc. connection for you to the Internet, then shut it off. Think like a Blinking Red light, going from dead stop to SPEEDING, then dead stop then SPEEDING, over and over and over.

This is a small reason people switch to CABLEInternet, more they switch because of the higher MAXIMUM (they don't advertise it that way) speed you get on Cable. They switched from 30Mbps to now 150Mps as the max, then they just doubled that (as I hold the flier in my hand) to 300Mbps, as they try to match Verizion FIOS/Google Internet Services of 1Gbps. Cable is subjugated to 'how many users' locally with you are on at the same time, so like morning or evening commute times, things used to 'slow down' as 'everyone is on the Internet at the same time', remember they sell a MAXIMUM speed, not a dedicated speed as DSL used to do. The positive is that for a house with alot of electronics (like your list below) there is ample 'bandwidth' for EVERYONE, even when things (iPhone, Android Tablet, etc.) are just doing the automated tasks (Check VMail, DING on new FB entry, Updating the OS/Device software, etc.) which happens alot when it isn't being 'used' in your hands.

- At&T owns the router.
- Other Devices to the best of my knowledge:.... (11 Devices)...
- I see about 13 other wireless networks when examining the icon in the tray. Curious, that.

Okay so we got some serious issues here that would require a 'Customized Solution' from AT&T or out of your pocket.
You have a choices here

1) Make sure your at the highest speed possible, which means paying more OR switching to CableTV instead OR you get YOUR OWN Internet Service to JUST your room no one else uses it.

2) the router is NOT in your control, so that means ANYTHING you do is based on getting help and AT&T would have to put the 'fixes' in. A forums like here couldn't just 'tell you what to do', because you have no access. You COULD try to buy a better Wifi Router (see below for VERY BIG REASONS BUT....) but it still has to go through THIS 2Wire, which means that the signal is still SPLIT at the 2Wire to Coax>TV AND anything Ethernet wired INTO the 2Wire.

3) QoS is the typical Quality of Service setup tool inside Routers to set 'priority' of one type of 'data' (video, audio-Skype Voice for example, etc.) over another type of 'data' (Web surfing, checking email, etc.) so the one sort of data (watching a video, talking over skype, etc.) doesn't experience 'performance issues' (hiccups, pauses, skipping in video .. I ,,,,,,,,,, sssssaaaaidddd.... Hello<<STTTATIC>> Skype voice conversations, etc.).
Enabling QoS on EVERY device you listed MAY help a bit, but normally you need control over the Router, or you can get AT&T to 'mess with it'. After enabling QoS on every iPhone, Laptop, etc. you would need to access your Router's webpage (192.168.1.1 or whatever your IP is .1) and then modify the QoS table to add in your games as a Higher priority (they have a set PORT NUMBER they play on) over other types of traffic (Port 80 for webpages for example). BUT you would need to talk to EVERYONE in the family, because you don't want to piss off 'Dad' trying to check his work email just because YOU want to play BF4 64 Man map. BUTTTT as I pointed out in #2 you would have to get AT&T to do that, but I doubt it would DO much (see below for more explanation to understand).

4) this ancient (and I mean that) 2Wire needs to be replaced by AT&T and again maybe just a simple phone call to them to for that. First off it is specifical specialized for streaming 'Video' AS PRIORITY over anything else "snooping for video QoS. Built-in QoS support gives service providers a flexible tool for traffic analysis and edge policy enforcement.". This means that no matter what they 'MAY' do to modify, whenever anyone watching TV it will HOG the Internet over everyone else's needs.
Second (OMG!!!) HyperG Wireless Functionality • 802.11g wireless access point, backwards compatible with 802.11b . This is a HUGE reason for the Wireless issues, this is ANCIENT. Current Wifi is 802.11ac to accommodate MANY (multiple) Devices all wanting to SEND AND RECEIVE at the same time. Most devices are 802.11n , which works OKAY to 'swap' between MANY (multiple) devices wanting to SEND OR RECEIVE, but not BOTH at the same time. 802.11g is WAAAY OLD and was good for ONE device to SEND OR RECEIVE . So the problem with your wireless is because the 2Wire is only capable if you were having only one or two computers (ONLY) in the house and each just 'surfing' the web, not playing games and such, much less all the other electronics you listed.

5) With the wide list of items you have in the house the speed of all wifi routers normally SLOWS down to the SLOWEST device, to be as compatible as possible. Only the newest 802.11ac with MULTIPLE antenna (you will see 4, 6 or even 8 listed) can circumvent this as each antenna is separate, so the slow iPhone 4 wouldn't slow down your Wifi Card as they both would talk separately to a different antenna.

6) 13 Wifi BROADCASTERS nearby... NOT good! This means 13 other 'Radios' all trying to 'broadcast' or SHOUT they can give service WITH your 2Wire. This means (like a radio station broadcasting on the same frequency as another) there is alot of dropping and interference potential unless you MANUALLY set the Router to a unused broadcast channel. A good tool I use is Xirrus Wifi Scanner, it shows all the other 'broadcasters' and what Channels they all use. So if they were all '2Wire' as well they would be ALL on the same 'default' Channel, which means they ALL were broadcasting interfering with each other. AT&T would have to access this in the Router and set it to a unused one, that wouldn't have any 'bleed over' from all the other 'broadcasters'.

- I plan on posing the same question to both AT&T and Actiontec.

Actiontec does not support AT&T devices, and AT&T does not support third party devices. Though if you posted the question of the 2Wire Coax connection, does it 'send Internet' over the Coax, they will tell you the same thing I am, NO. Yes your PC is 'sending' traffic, it is trying to ask for it's 'Information' (IP, Gateway, etc) but it gets NOTHING back (receiving) because the Coax is ONLY sending TV Video Signals NOT Internet.

 

[abailey]

You do not have to purchase the item I referenced above. Your MOCA should work fine the way I told you to hook it up in my previous post. What TOM and I are talking about are two different things. I can get your connection working over MOCA, but I cannot say that this will help your problem of getting a better connection to the internet. Tom is trying to help you get a better connection to the internet and less contention for bandwidth between all your devices.

 

[Tom Tancredi]

...
So on that note, I did a little research and decided to purchase the Coax-over-Ethernet MoCA adapter (paired) to take advantage of the coax port coming out of the wall in the office room where the computer is located. So I’ve set the two of them up (i.e. one connected to my gateway and one connected to my computer), and something interesting has happened. The connection is clearly there (that is, I’m 99.999% positive I’ve hooked it up correctly, lol), but it has been labeled an “Unidentified Network” and not actually giving me access to the internet. I also notice the green “Coax” light is not on, but the “Power” and “Ethernet” lights are. In addition, when I flip the switch in the back of the hardware to “Config”, it is the “Coax” and “Ethernet” lights that are on and the “Power” light that is off. I know that there is at least something because I see packets have been sent though not received when I right-click and check “Status”, and there is no little red ‘X’ denoting a break in the connection. I feel like the solution I am looking for is just outside the reach of my fingertips...


My Hardware:

Gateway: 2Wire 3800HGV-B

MoCA Adapters: ECB2500C (x2)
- have black coax cable between “Cable Line” port on gateway and “Coax In” port in MoCA adapter
- have black coax cable between “Coax Out” port on adapter and port coming from wall (router is located downstairs, diametrically opposed from upstairs office room)
- have Ethernet cable between adapter and router
- have white coax cable between port in wall in office room and “Coax In” port on adapter near the computer
- have Ethernet cable from adapter in office room to computer
- the “Cable Line” port in the router affects the cable signal to the television in the entertainment room, so I know I at least have something set up correctly (otherwise, the TV would not have a signal)

Ok you may have to use a splitter, but first try it this way.
Connect your Router "Cable Line" coax to the OUT on the MOCA adapter (I know it is counter intuitive)
Connect the MOCA COAX IN to the wall COAX jack
Now on the other end connect the wall COAX outlet to the MOCA IN (as you have it now).
See if this works. If it does not work, disconnect (just to test) the COAX from the Router to the MOCA device and try again.
Does not matter if you use a white or black cable. Many times the white are more expensive because they are in higher demand when wiring inside the house (where wires can be seen). That being said I would try to always use RG6 COAX cable.
I use the ECB2500C MOCA adapters in my house and have been very happy with them.

I just looked up your 2Wire 3800HGV-B and see it uses HPNA 3.1. This means two things. First the way I told you to hook up the MOCA adapters should work. Now if you can return the MOCA adapters you could save money by purchasing just one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00684E0UI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=ESH21VESZ1JF&coliid=I76NY95B17XB1 for your room as the 2Wire 3800HGV-B has one built in (using its "cable line" port).

You do not have to purchase the item I referenced above. Your MOCA should work fine the way I told you to hook it up in my previous post. What TOM and I are talking about are two different things. I can get your connection working over MOCA, but I cannot say that this will help your problem of getting a better connection to the internet. Tom is trying to help you get a better connection to the internet and less contention for bandwidth between all your devices.

I have to majorly disagree with Abailey, because he is making the wrong assumptions. First off he is assuming that the COAX 'out' from the 2Wire is the SAME THING as his local CableTV Modem/router he has experience with, as noted by the manufacturer http://www.2wire.com/pages/pdfs/5100-000383-000_2W_Rev_B_0107.pdf it states the COAX is VIDEO only signalling. So basically this is going back in time when there was no Internet service 'over' CableTV only video; second as I pointed out you have VDSL service NOT CABLE Service. So AT&T is sending all 'communications' over telephone, when it hits the 2Wire, SPLITS the traffic via dedicated port that a portion of the bandwidth is ONLY for Video Services (like Netflix, Youtube, etc. but this is 'CableTV' over DSL). Lastly (considering this age of it) TVs (CRT NOT LCD) only had COAX , and houses were ONLY pre-wired for COAX (not Ethernet) the 2Wire makes it 'dumb easy' to just plug from the 2Wire to the back of the TV (CRT) or to the COAX jack nearby that is ALSO connected to the COAX'd TV in another room (say bedroom) so multiple rooms have 'Cable'.

Lastly Abailey doesn't seem to 'understand' the purpose of your MOCA you bought. The PURPOSE and USE of the MOCA is so if you have a XBOX/PC/NON-WIFI system and don't wish to shell out a bunch of money / rip out walls - insulation to 'Wire' every part of the house with Ethernet, then you can use the PRE-WIRED COAX in the living room / bedrooms to 'connect' over with the MOCA at each end, and still have 'Cable' to your TV in those rooms as well (note the TV - OUT second COAX on it http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/electronics/detail-page/sc_b008c1jc4o-03productbacklg.jpg).

As per the Amazon image http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/electronics/detail-page/sc_b008c1jc4o-02connectmap.jpg it shows (start bottom left) that what the MOCA is supposed to do is take your 2Wire/Other Router ETHERNET cable (ETHERNET is YELLOW) from the router into ONE MOCA. That Moca then connects to the house COAX (as I said above) to 'split' the Ethernet signal over the COAX to the PREWIRE COAX in your house (COAX IS RED). As it shows on the OTHER END (Bedroom/Family Room) a second, third, etc. MOCA is connected (RED) to the COAX already wired in the room, then run (YELLOW) ANOTHER Ethernet from the MOCA to your PC. IF you have a TV in the SAME room, a seperate (another RED) connection would run from the MOCA to the TV (http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/electronics/detail-page/sc_b008c1jc4o-03productbacklg.jpg).

NOTE: The top left MOCA in the image does NOT connect to the TV, but instead ETHERNET (Yellow) to the DVR - Digital Video Recorder, to get INTERNET based DVR - OnDemand video.

 

[abailey]

Ok I will go over this one more time to try to clear up misinformation or misunderstanding.
First I will speak to the MOCA solution since you have purchased MOCA adapters.
MOCA should work in your situation. You want to hook your PC to your 2Wire modem network using COAX.
I will explain in detail how to wire it and why it will work.

1) Take one of your MOCA adapters and connect an ethernet cable from the ethernet jack on the MOCA adapter to a LAN (Local Ethernet) connection on the back of your 2Wire router.
2) On your MOCA adapter connect a COAX cable from the COAX IN port to your wall COAX jack.
3) Now connect a COAX cable from the "Cable Line" coax on the back of the 2Wire router to the coax OUT jack on the MOCA adapter. The coax OUT jack on the MOCA adapter is simply a pass through port, thus allowing anything coming out of the "Cable Line" port on the 2Wire to continue onto the coax wire.
4) In the room where your computer is take your MOCA adapter and connect its COAX IN jack to the wall COAX jack with a a COAX cable. If you have a TV in that room that needs the COAX also, then connect a coax cable from it to the COAX OUT jack on the MOCA adapter. If there is no TV there that needs the COAX cable, then there should be a resistor on the COAX OUT jack of the MOCA adapter (this resistor should be included with the MOCA adapter.
5) connect an ethernet cable from the MOCA adapter to your PC.
Now you should have ethernet connection to your PC and your TV's should also work in all the rooms.
There are three reasons why this set up may not work:
1) The COAX jack in the room where your computer is, is not connected to your house coax network (this could possibly happen if you don't use COAX in that room for anything else and the installer disconnected the feed to that room)
2) The signal coming out of the 2Wire "Cable Line" connection is interfering with the MOCA signal (this should not happen as the signal coming out of the "Cable Line" is HPNA 3 which uses a different set of frequencies from MOCA). To test if this is the problem simply disconnect the coax that runs between the 2Wire and the MOCA adapter and put the resister on the MOCA adapter coax OUT jack.
3) The "Cable Line" jack on the back of the 2Wire 3800HGV-B is a dual purpose jack. It can both receive the VDSL signal into the box as well as send out ethernet over coax (HPNA 3). If your 2wire router has a phone cord going into the "Phone Line" jack on the back, then that is how it should be getting its VDSL signal from ATT. If it does not, then it is probably getting its signal in through the "Cable Line" jack. If this is so then most likely there will be a
Diplexer connected to the line coming into the room where the 2Wire is located. If this is the case then you may not be able to use MOCA without running a second COAX line from that room to wherever your COAX splitter is located (for the house).

Now I have explained how the "Cable Line" jack on the back of the 2Wire router can be both an input for VDSL and an output for HPNA 3 signals. So to clear up any confusion on the outgoing signal; the outgoing signal on the 2Wire 3800HGV-B is HPNA 3 compliant. The 2Wire uses this signal to send IPTV traffic over if you do not have an ethernet jack near your TV for the receiver to connect to. the 2Wire also sends this same signal out the 4 LAN ports on the back. Now just like the 4 LAN ports on the back, the "Cable Line" port can also be used for your home network ethernet traffic. It uses HPNA 3 instead of MOCA. Both technologies are similar in that both are ethernet over coax and both have about the same throughput, they just use different parts of the frequency spectrum. Knowing this if you did not want to use MOCA adapters, you could use a HPNA 3 coax adapter to connect a device back to the 2Wire. Since the 2Wire has a built in HPNA 3 adapter, you would only have to purchase one adapter, on the end you wanted connected back to the router. This is what I alluded to earlier in my previous post. The adapter I linked to is a HPNA 3 adapter. This is how my neighbor has his computer hooked into his 3800HGV-B. He uses this adapter: http://www.actiontec.com/81.html but since it is no longer supported, I pointed you to another adapter.

Ok I hope this helps clear things up. Like I said you should be able to get ethernet connection over COAX from your PC to your 2Wire. The question still remains as to if this will ultimately help your computer get a better internet connection (which it will if wireless connection was your real problem in the first place).

 

[Tom Tancredi]

Ok I will go over this one more time to try to clear up misinformation or misunderstanding.
.....

Uhmmm didn't I say it in my last paragraph how it was supposed to be hooked up? But thanks for the longer steps. I really don't think the OP (whom obviously is a bit challenged by this) cares about compliance except (as you seem to be indicating) how the 'interference' can be occuring http://www.ospmag.com/issue/article/No-One-Size-Fits-All[/b] because you have AT&T doing something oppoisite to what Cable Companies came up with (typical). A opinion with links for the geeks of us to understand this too http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8043 (*I personally had to look all this up as was news to me, but would be a big thing if you were into 'other than Wifi/Ethernet' solutions).

IN anycase considering how OLD and LEGACY this 2Wire is, I think the OP is just running after his tail no matter your solution or not. I think (as I addressed) he should just stop completely where he is at, call ATT and ask for the newest router to be delivered, and the top service plan. BUT AS THE OP IS JUST A KID, this would be Mommy/Daddy making the call and decision to do this, IF they even wanted to stay with ATT and not just go better with local CableTV which for the DEMANDS this household has would be better suited. AGAIN MOMMY DADDY DECISIONS NOT OP.

I think this issue is closed, as the real sources of the issues need to be addressed first, because NOTHING else the OP does MOCA, HPNA, etc. will do the 'end game' which is allow the OP to play games online better.

 

[BigBaron]

Sorry for the absence, but I've been busy doing other things in my life and kind of pushed this thing to the side for a bit. The matter is not closed just yet. I'll get back as soon as I have some more information.

 

[BigBaron]

I know that I've been gone for a good 3 months since I first started this thread. Mostly because I wanted a long stretch of time to see how a new idea I've been trying would work out before declaring victory. I feel that I've found a solution that seems to be working well enough. For starters, we did end up calling AT&T, and they did replace our old 2Wire 3800HGV-B with an ARRIS NVG589. I was still faced with the same problem that I initially had, though not quite as much. It was still enough to significantly interrupt my online activities. I'm thinking that the information in Tom's first answer probably had the most influence in what was going wrong with my connection. The true solution came from a set of powerline adapters that my father purchased (specifically a pair of TRENDnet Powerline 500 AV2 Adapters). Setting them up and configuring the software was pretty simple, and I have had a relatively fast (as in "not slow") connection without any interruptions for a good two months now.

It is amazing to me how much simpler this powerline adapter setup is than the MoCA adapters and that it ended up being $50 cheaper. Kudos to Tom Tancredi since he clearly knows his stuff. Thanks both of you for your input.