Question Problem with Core i5 6600K stuck in min or max speed -Help!

May 12, 2022
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Hello everyone.
I have this PC:
- MB Asus Maximus VIII Hero (Z170) 6th Gen.
-Core i5-6600K CPU
- RAM 2x8gb Gskill Ripjaws V 3200mhz.

From time to time I disassemble the PC to give it complete maintenance (1 or 2 times a year, depending on the dust it accumulates).
2 days ago I gave it its corresponding maintenance, and when I put it back together it is giving me these symptoms (Let me clarify that It did not have these symptoms before the maintenance, in fact, it was working perfectly):

- When I turn it on it does fine but the Micro gets stuck at only 800mhz. Then I turn it off and without unplugging it from the power I turn it back on and then it gets stuck at 3.5ghz.
On only 2 random occasions, the Speed Step and the Turbo manage to do their job well: vary the speed as they are supposed to do. But in most cases happens that mentioned abnormal symptom.

This is what I have done so far to try solving the problem without success:
  • Check the socket pins: They are OK.
  • Clean the contracts of the CPU: They are OK.
  • Reposition the Micro several times in the socket.
  • Reflashing the BIOS.
  • Clearing BIOS's settings to default.
  • Activating RAM's XMP capability.
I'm aware of the bending problems of Skylake CPU, so let me say this important note: I always had a Noctua NH-U12P as a cooling system mounted on it (which did an excellent job). Only this time after giving it that maintenance, when I reassembled the PC, I put the typical stock Intel heatsink on it.

Please. What do you think could happen? And how to fix it?

Thanks in advance.

PS. Pardon my English. Not my natal language.
 
Assuming you have not played with BIOS settings, then within 'power plans'/advanced power settings, make sure 'Balanced' power plan is selected, which will allow 3.9 GHz on single core tasks (typically in brief bursts, like when opening an application, etc.) and with all-core tasks showing sustained 3.5 GHz... WHen sitting at desktop and/or surfing, clock speeds should jump around several times per second.

I'd also make sure all associated chipset drivers for that mainboard are downloaded and applied from the link listed below:


(LAN, Audio, Chipset, VGA, and USB ought to suffice, in particular, the correct 'chipset' drivers will help here)
 
May 12, 2022
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Assuming you have not played with BIOS settings, then within 'power plans'/advanced power settings, make sure 'Balanced' power plan is selected, which will allow 3.9 GHz on single core tasks (typically in brief bursts, like when opening an application, etc.) and with all-core tasks showing sustained 3.5 GHz... WHen sitting at desktop and/or surfing, clock speeds should jump around several times per second.

I'd also make sure all associated chipset drivers for that mainboard are downloaded and applied from the link listed below:


(LAN, Audio, Chipset, VGA, and USB ought to suffice, in particular, the correct 'chipset' drivers will help here)
Thanks for replaying.
Yes, I can install a fresh Windows with drivers, but, I have to add that I think the problem is at bios level too. I mean, cause when I turn the board on, and enter setup there says that CPU is at 800mhz, I leave setup, and after Windows is loaded the CPU is at 800mhz. Then turn off PC, and then I turn it on again, enter setup and then there says the CPU is at 3500mhz (as it should normal being) and Windows says 3.5ghz to 3.89ghz but won't drop from there. Then I turn off again, unplug de PSU from power, let it there for a while, turn it on and everything start over again, ....800mhz, ...off, ...on, 3500mhz, ....
 
I'd first install the chipset drivers, then all WIndows updates, then check that you are in Balanced Power mode... not Economy, and not Performance) (I never mentioned fresh install of Windows, by the way, as you said you had already done that, so, now I am concerned with drivers)

If BIOS is set to defaults, then multiplier control should be set to Auto...(no goofy auto overclocking routines of +5/+10%, etc , selected within BIOS)

There'd be no reason to hang at 800 MHz, but, I have seen systems hanging at 800 MHz until chipset drivers and al Windows updates had been installed, then next shutdown/restart, and all was flawless...,,

The system's clock-speed should fluctuate from 800 MHz to 3500/3900 MHz when goofing off at the desktop...; something is wrong until it is doing that. (Selecting Performance Mode in Power plans might cause it to run at 3.5 Ghz constantly, so...go for Balanced mode....)

If you run CPU-Z/bench/stress CPU, then it should run at constant 3.5 GHz until the load is removed by hitting 'stop' or 'end' in CPU-Z (whichever applies, I don't recall off -hand..)_
 
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May 12, 2022
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I'd first install the chipset drivers, then all WIndows updates, then check that you are in Balanced Power mode... not Economy, and not Performance) (I never mentioned fresh install of Windows, by the way, as you said you had already done that, so, now I am concerned with drivers)

If BIOS is set to defaults, then multiplier control should be set to Auto...(no goofy auto overclocking routines of +5/+10%, etc , selected within BIOS)

There'd be no reason to hang at 800 MHz, but, I have seen systems hanging at 800 MHz until chipset drivers and al Windows updates had been installed, then next shutdown/restart, and all was flawless...,,

The system's clock-speed should fluctuate from 800 MHz to 3500/3900 MHz when goofing off at the desktop...; something is wrong until it is doing that. (Selecting Performance Mode in Power plans might cause it to run at 3.5 Ghz constantly, so...go for Balanced mode....)

If you run CPU-Z/bench/stress CPU, then it should run at constant 3.5 GHz until the load is removed by hitting 'stop' or 'end' in CPU-Z (whichever applies, I don't recall off -hand..)_
...
However, isn't it something abnormal that when entering the Setup the Micro is always at 800mhz, except when I turn off and on again that is when the Micro is at 3.5ghz (as it should be)?
Isn't suspicious the possibility of the famous Skylake bending problem since I change the Heat Sink?
I know it's speculation, but I'm just saying this to bring up this subjects.
However, I'm going to do what you suggest about drivers and power profiles.
I'll keep you updated as I progress.
 
You might even try a new BIOS battery (CR2032, about $3 or so) as well, maybe it is not retaining all settings after a shutdown and going to some sort of 'degraded' /bare minimum state...

(In the degraded state after a power on, is the CPU still correctly ID'd as a 6600K while in the BIOS?
 
May 12, 2022
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You might even try a new BIOS battery (CR2032, about $3 or so) as well, maybe it is not retaining all settings after a shutdown and going to some sort of 'degraded' /bare minimum state...

(In the degraded state after a power on, is the CPU still correctly ID'd as a 6600K while in the BIOS?
...
Yes, the BIOS always correctly identifies the Micro as 6600K as it should.
I insist on thinking that it is a hardware problem. Cause something that happened to me right at the 1st moment when I put re-assembled the PC is that it didn't recognize the 2 RAMs, but after cleaning the Mucro contacts, this was fixed, and I didn't give it any more importance cause haven't happened anymore.
The biggest problem follows the main one that I told here. Note that it is a Board and CPU with 5 years or so of use (moderate) and not overclocked. In addition, remember that in 2 random occasions the SpeedStep and Turbo did make the CPU work by varying its speed as it should be.
The impression I get is that the CPU and the Socket are not making perfect contact with each other, and I think the Intel heatsink caused the Micro to bend. Honestly, due to my work, I have not been able to dedicate as much time as I wanted to this matter and that is why I am slow to respond. But my idea is still to find a solution. Example:
  • Check again the straightness of the PCB of the CPU.
  • Make a BIOS flash but by recovery.
  • And what you recommended me about drivers and power plans.
The best would be to have another Board and CPU of this generation to defect but it is not easy for me. A topic related to this: I understand that a damaged Board can damage a CPU, right? But a damaged CPU cannot damage a Board. Is it so?
I want to reconfirm it by the fact that if I manage to get someone to borrow me a compatible Board and CPU, I won't also damage the owner's parts in the process.
Thank you very much.
 
May 12, 2022
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@rog_53
Run ThrottleStop, open Limit Reasons and check for BD PROCHOT throttling. If BD PROCHOT is red, try clearing the BD PROCHOT box on the main screen of ThrottleStop. Do the MHz increase?
Thank you. I will take it as another test to carry out. I notify about it as soon as I can do it. However, a friend is going to borrow me a Board and CPU of my same Gen to defect mine. This will clear up my suspected of bent CPU.
As a reconfirmation: A moment ago I removed the CPU again to check its straightness against a flat surface, and evidently (albeit slightly) it has somewhat curved corners. I will verify if it has to do with the symptom when I defect it with the parts my friend will borrow me.
I'll keep you update...

PS. Again, pardon me if there is anything wrong redacted. I'm using Google Translate to helping me out.
 
May 12, 2022
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Well. Recently I was able to defect my Board and CPU with the ones my friend lent me. So far, these are the results:
  • My i5 6600K CPU worked fine as it should on the borrowed board, which is an ASRock H170M Pro4S.
  • The i5 6500 that he lent me has exactly the same weird symptom on my Board Maximus VIII Hero.
So I'm afraid I can diagnose that the Board is the cause of the problem... :(

What do you think could happen to it, and if it can be fixed?

Thank you
 

uWebb429

Respectable
May 22, 2020
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It is difficult to diagnose your problem if you do not post any screenshots. My previous post tells you what I need to see to diagnose and likely fix this problem.

If your board has a BD PROCHOT throttling problem, you can either replace the board or you will always need to run ThrottleStop to disable the BD PROCHOT box on the main screen.



This is a common problem when a temperature sensor goes bad on the motherboard. Running ThrottleStop costs nothing. Buying a new board would be expensive. It is not necessary if you can freely fix this problem by using software.
 
May 12, 2022
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It is difficult to diagnose your problem if you do not post any screenshots. My previous post tells you what I need to see to diagnose and likely fix this problem.

If your board has a BD PROCHOT throttling problem, you can either replace the board or you will always need to run ThrottleStop to disable the BD PROCHOT box on the main screen.



This is a common problem when a temperature sensor goes bad on the motherboard. Running ThrottleStop costs nothing. Buying a new board would be expensive. It is not necessary if you can freely fix this problem by using software.
Thank you. Thank you very much for your suggestion and time spent on my problem.
I haven't had as much time to deal as fully as I'd like with this matter, that's why I take so long to respond.
However, it is still my intention to do everything possible to solve it.
I will do what you propose, because the possibility of a damaged temperature sensor makes total sense. As soon as I do it, I'll tell you the result. Thank you very much again.
I keep you up to date.
Greetings
 
Reactions: uWebb429
May 12, 2022
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@rog_53
Run ThrottleStop, open Limit Reasons and check for BD PROCHOT throttling. If BD PROCHOT is red, try clearing the BD PROCHOT box on the main screen of ThrottleStop. Do the MHz increase?
Hello.
Sorry for taking so long, work has made it difficult for me to keeping investigating my Board.
Anyway, today I was finally able to continue with this test that "uWebb429" suggested.
According to the result that test gave me, it happens exactly as he said it could.
I installed a fresh and updated Windows 10 and updated drivers as well.
I turn on PC and CPU was stuck at 800mhz.
Then I ran ThrottleStop, opened Limit Reasons and it said BD PROCHOT (both CPU and GPU).
I deactivated the BD PROCHOT checkbox and immediately the CPU started to work at its proper speed.

I suspect there is a problem with the sensor that "uWebb429" mentioned.

With this facts:

What diagnosis does this give?

What do you think could be the cause if the PC was perfect before giving it maintenance and putting the stock Intel heatsink on it?

What are the solutions? If any.

Thank you very much again.

PS. How can I attached photos I took of this?
 
May 12, 2022
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You can run ThrottleStop or you can buy a new motherboard.

Some tiny sensor likely shorted out during your cleaning project. Be more careful next time.

Use www.imgur.com or a similar image hosting site.
Really thankful for answer me.

Is there a way I can run ThrottleStop automatically at Windows logon with this preconfiguration?

Taking care of cleaning (maintenance) of my clients' computers (desktops and laptops) is part of my job. I've never had this fatality before. But I know that there is always a first time for everything, and I am not the exception. So, I have to learn from this, and go on.
So it would be useful for me to know (to avoid future breakages like this), where are these sensors located on the motherboard?
Thx again.
 
May 12, 2022
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I also would like to know if this problem already sentenced the motherboard to die soon, or not?

Using the motherboard and CPU in this way deactivating the BD PROCHOT through ThrottleStop will limit in the short term the useful life that the Motherboard has left, or will it damage the CPU sooner?

I ask this because I intend to sell it, at a reasonable price, taking into account the problem, and clarifying it to the buyer. And I want to have a clear conscience that it will last a reasonable time.
Thx
 
May 12, 2022
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Hello.
Sorry for taking so long, work has made it difficult for me to keeping investigating my Board.
Anyway, today I was finally able to continue with this test that "uWebb429" suggested.
According to the result that test gave me, it happens exactly as he said it could.
I installed a fresh and updated Windows 10 and updated drivers as well.
I turn on PC and CPU was stuck at 800mhz.
Then I ran ThrottleStop, opened Limit Reasons and it said BD PROCHOT (both CPU and GPU).
I deactivated the BD PROCHOT checkbox and immediately the CPU started to work at its proper speed.

I suspect there is a problem with the sensor that "uWebb429" mentioned.

With this facts:

What diagnosis does this give?

What do you think could be the cause if the PC was perfect before giving it maintenance and putting the stock Intel heatsink on it?

What are the solutions? If any.

Thank you very much again.

PS. How can I attached photos I took of this?
I want to point out this:

Observing with more attention, in ThrottleStop, in Limits:

- CORE is in yellow and start flashing in red-yellow as soon as I do something (like open Explorer, etc).

- GPU is in red.

When I unchecked BD PROCHOT both stay in yellow.

Don't know if this change the diagnosis.
 

uWebb429

Respectable
May 22, 2020
513
150
2,440
97
Your motherboard is fine. Some 5 cent sensor crapped out. Having BD PROCHOT always enabled is not mandatory.

Some people confuse BD PROCHOT and PROCHOT (processor hot). These are two completely separate signals within the CPU. If your CPU ever gets too hot, it will thermal throttle to protect against any damage whether BD PROCHOT is enabled or disabled. These two signals sound the same but have nothing to do with each other.

You can use the Task Scheduler to add ThrottleStop to the Windows startup sequence. This gives ThrottleStop the privileges that it needs. Here is a visual guide to setup the Task Scheduler.

https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/effective-clock-speed.293296/post-4749675

I've never had this fatality before
The sensor might have been on the edge of failing already or maybe there was a tiny transfer of some static electricity. It is impossible to say what happened. No worries. At least ThrottleStop is available so you can keep using your motherboard, likely for many more years. One failed sensor does not mean the rest of your board is on the edge of the grave.
 
May 12, 2022
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Your motherboard is fine. Some 5 cent sensor crapped out. Having BD PROCHOT always enabled is not mandatory.

Some people confuse BD PROCHOT and PROCHOT (processor hot). These are two completely separate signals within the CPU. If your CPU ever gets too hot, it will thermal throttle to protect against any damage whether BD PROCHOT is enabled or disabled. These two signals sound the same but have nothing to do with each other.

You can use the Task Scheduler to add ThrottleStop to the Windows startup sequence. This gives ThrottleStop the privileges that it needs. Here is a visual guide to setup the Task Scheduler.

https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/effective-clock-speed.293296/post-4749675


The sensor might have been on the edge of failing already or maybe there was a tiny transfer of some static electricity. It is impossible to say what happened. No worries. At least ThrottleStop is available so you can keep using your motherboard, likely for many more years. One failed sensor does not mean the rest of your board is on the edge of the grave.
Thanks very much for your knowledge and time. You've been very helpful to me. I am grateful.
Now I have a clear diagnosis of the problem, and even a viable solution.
Thank u all
 
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