PSU -12V running at -6V

[yackar]

I've recently been getting a more and more serious problem of being barely able or even unable to power on my computer using normal, conventional methods. After my most recent (and most serious) case of this, which I worked around by unplugging the 24-pin and shorting it into the on state with a paperclip and hot plugging it after a small sit time, I went into my hardware monitor and noted that the -12V rail is running at -6V. I am not sure what to make of this anomaly, seeing as my computer is able to run with it like that. If my hardware list is any help, I'll list it.

1x 1TB 7200RPM HDD
1x 320GB 5400RPM HDD
EVGA GTX 750 FTW 1GB GPU
ASUS M3N78-EM Motherboard
2x Crucial Ballistix 2GB 800MHz DDR2 Ram
2x Corsair 2GB 666MHz Generic DDR2 Ram
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4050e OC'ed from 2.1 GHz to 2.63 GHz, OV'ed 50mV
Via ENVY24 PCI audio card
Generic DVD drive

And for the power supply

I ripped this thing out of a Dell XPS 410 with a dead motherboard.
it's rated 375 watts
and it's sized as well as wired very wierd so I have to turn it backwards to get all the wires connected right and to mount my case upright without it falling, I have to wedge a stick between the PSU and the bottom of the case. It works, what can I say?

 

[InvalidError]

If the PC boots and software monitoring reports 6V on the 12V rail, then you know the software monitoring is reading a bogus value or not interpreting it correctly. When in doubt, use a real multimeter. Even a dollar store multimeter often have better than 1% DCV accuracy.

 

[unksol]

Obviously get a new PSU... Shouldn't need us to tell you that

 

[Dark Lord of Tech]

HWMonitor is poor software and not accurate.

Try HWINFO or AIDA64 EXTREME.

 

[yackar]

I downloaded HWINFO and ran it, but the sensors page for it doesn't show the negative rails.
But most of the positive rails do seem a hair low average.

 

[Dark Lord of Tech]

I think It was wrong anyways.

YOUR NUMBERS AREN'T IDEAL but are within spec.

 

[Dark Lord of Tech]

I would replace the power supply.

 

[Dark Lord of Tech]

I'm pretty sure if you replace it , you will be fine.

 

[yackar]

To be honest I've wanted to do that since I built this thing.
For starters, I'm afraid that it will be unstable if I try to upgrade my processor
It never fit right, needing to be turned backwards and wedged with a stick to keep it in place
It's already lived through a busted Dell XPS 410 motherboard, I'm kind of afraid that it could have been the cause or that misinteraction with the motherboard may have slightly damaged it in some way.
I'm broke though, and the supply I want is EVGA's basic 500Watt for $45, $40 on the current Newegg deal.
:/

 

[InvalidError]

I downloaded HWINFO and ran it, but the sensors page for it doesn't show the negative rails.

Most motherboards don't use the negative rails since they are too noisy to do anything useful with in modern PCs.

Historically, they were mostly used for high voltage serial port drivers. Most modern PCs only do TTL-compatible signaling on RS232 and most other legacy low speed ports.

 

[Dark Lord of Tech]

Steer clear of the low end EVGA UNITS , they are poor quality, made by HEC.

 

[yackar]

Most motherboards don't use the negative rails since they are too noisy to do anything useful with in modern PCs.

Historically, they were mostly used for high voltage serial port drivers. Most modern PCs only do TTL-compatible signaling on RS232 and most other legacy low speed ports.

Ok, so the cut -12V doesn't matter. I'm still gonna replace it when I get the chance, most of the positive rails are reading a bit low on average.

I plan on getting the $45 EVGA 500 watt when I do.

EDIT: Or not. I'll have to see what else I can find, I guess. Thanks for the tip, Blackbird.

 

[Dark Lord of Tech]

XFX 550W is what to look for in the future.

 

[yackar]

What about Rosewill 500W? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA07236V1500