[SOLVED] PSU and CPU runs really hot after new case, sometimes shuts off randomly with loud click noise

Egossi

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First I should give some context, my pc was originally a prebuilt from ~2013 with these specs:
PSU: random generic 500W PSU
Motherboard: ECS H81H3-M4 mATX
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770
GPU: GTX 560
Case: Manufacterers old mid tower case with 1 60mm exhaust fan, it's one of those old style cases
RAM: 8 GB (2x4GB DDR3 1333MHz)
Generic 1TB HDD
CPU Cooler: GlacialTech JT8025DS
DVD-RW: TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-224DB

Since then, I have changed the HDDs with 2 SSDs (Samsung 850 EVO 500GB and SanDisk Plus 480GB)

Eventually I also changed the GPU to GTX 760, but that made the power supply EXLPODE, yes sparkles and burnt smell and the inside of it was mostly black, thankfully though no other component seemed damaged
I then changed the power supply with a cheap low quality Turkish made power supply called Everest Eps-600A (600W)

I have then also upgraded my GPU to RX 580 8GB and everything has been working fine generally, the PSU and CPU ran at around 60-70 degrees celcius max and the GPU hit a max of 85 degrees
I undervolt and overclock the GPU (1441mhz clock and 2250 mem) but it overheated a lot which worried me so I decided to buy a new case called Dark X-force to get a better airflow
But the 4 ping ATX cable turned out to be too short for the placement of the PSU and the mobo in the new case, so I bought an extension cable, which then melted and caused the PC to shut off abruptly many times, sometimes completely shutting off and sometimes freezing entirely indefinitely followed by a loud clicking noise. I replaced the cable with a better alternative but it still shuts off randomly after a random period of time even though when I run userbenchmark everything seems to be working fine and "above expectations" according to userbenchmark,

I also now get 80-85 degrees celcius on my PSU and CPU, whereas my GPU is now way cooler (at around 65-72 max), I am beyond confused
I opened up the power supply a couple times to check the capacitators and whatnot to see if anything seemed out of the ordinary, everything seems fine, the only difference between the old case and the new one are 3 case fans, 1 with LED and an LED strip in the front of the case, and the 4 pin ATX extension cable for the cpu power

TL;DR: Bought a new case, only difference between old one are 3 fans, some LED and a 4 pin ATX extension cable, but the PSU and CPU heats up crazy now (according to open hardware monitor they both reach the 80-85 degrees range) and randomly completely freezes entirely followed by a loud clicking noise, indefinitely until i force shut it off
I also can play games for long periods of times, and the freeze/shut off happens sometimes when theres barely any load (like im watching a youtube video and no other program is running besides chrome), and sometimes when I'm playing a heavy load game like Fortnite on highest settings

Current specs:
Power Supply: Everest Eps-600A 600W
Motherboard: ECS H81H3-M4 mATX
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770
GPU: HIS Amd Radeon RX580 ICEQX2 OC 8GB
Case: Sh*tty old mid tower case that came with my prebuilt
RAM: 8 GB (2x4GB DDR3 1333MHz)
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
Second SSD: SanDisk Plus 480GB
CPU Cooler: GlacialTech JT8025DS
Monitor: LG 22MP57HQ-P IPS 22" 5ms 1920x1080 60hz
Second Monitor: Asus VS197NE 18.5" 5ms 1366x768 60hz
Mouse: A4 Tech X7 XL-750BH
Keyboard: A4 Tech X7 G800V
DVD-RW: TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-224DB
Microphone: Blue Yeti
Headphones: Apple EarPods
WebCam: A4 Tech PK-910H 1080P 16MP
 
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Colif

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I can't find anything on that PSU besides Amazon reviews which I don't trust. Last time Tom's reviewed anything from them was 13 years ago.

I then changed the power supply with a cheap low quality Turkish made power supply called Everest Eps-600A (600W)
I know its an old PC but if you had a better PSU it wouldn't get as hot and it is unlikely case at fault
userbenchmark doesn't test power.

that clicking noise could be PSU overheating.

what is new case? should share photos - upload to an image sharing website and show links here.
 

Egossi

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what is new case? should share photos - upload to an image sharing website and show links here.
OFF View: https://imgur.com/a/0neIjEN
ON View: https://imgur.com/a/uJPb5IT

I took the PSU out so that the atx cable could reach the mobo just to see if the extension cable was causing the issue, but the PC still froze permanently with the loud clicking noise after about 2 hours of gaming with 100% load on GPU, thankfully I could see the tempatures open hardware monitor gave me and all my components were sitting at around 65 degrees celcius, so I'm convinced it's not an overheating issue. It also happens when there is no load on anything and everything is sitting at 40-50 celcius, so

I can't tell if the PSU is the problem or if it's the mobo/ram/cpu, it would be costly to replace the latter especially when i dont really need to, but I also don't want to replace the PSU to find out that this one was working perfectly fine
 
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Egossi

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these are my temps when idle and when gaming at max gpu load with the case panels open, it gets about 5-10 degrees more when its closed View: https://imgur.com/a/usrhWWR

I also took a picture of the temps that were on the screen after the machine froze following the loud clicking sound
View: https://i.imgur.com/69t2AJi.jpeg

NOTE: that this happens pretty much randomly and I can game with no problems whatsoever at max settings (on fortnite) for hours at 1080p 60fps stable, for prolonged periods of time. Almost all of the time it freezes with the clicking sound but the machine keeps working with all the fans and lights, I'm saying almost because I also have been getting BSOD'd a couple of times as well as it powering off entirely, sorry if this was an important detail i forgot to mention
 
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Colif

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So apart from needing a new PSU, where exactly does air get in the front of the PC case? I can see 2 fans but where do they get air from? front looks like its solid plastic, is there a gap at base to let some air in? or does it have a slightly mesh front? I can't really tell from your photos.

what is fan in roof of case??? exhaust or intake?
 

DSzymborski

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Honestly, if that piece of garbage PSU was 85 degrees, the PC would probably go up in smoke.

Kinda confused about the choice made, after a junk PSU blew up, to buy another junk PSU. Whatever happened to "once bitten, twice shy?" I think the wiring is just shoestring licorice from the looks of it.
 

Egossi

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So apart from needing a new PSU, where exactly does air get in the front of the PC case? I can see 2 fans but where do they get air from? front looks like its solid plastic, is there a gap at base to let some air in? or does it have a slightly mesh front? I can't really tell from your photos.

what is fan in roof of case??? exhaust or intake?
sorry for the unclear photo, the roof fan is just from my old case, its intake, and the front has a mesh panel that takes the air in, the 3 new 120mm case fans take power directly from the psu, the back one with ARGB is the exhaust fan here are 2 more photos of the back and front, the top is also a mesh with a removable dust catcher View: https://imgur.com/a/DLQCHiO


Honestly, if that piece of garbage PSU was 85 degrees, the PC would probably go up in smoke.

Kinda confused about the choice made, after a junk PSU blew up, to buy another junk PSU. Whatever happened to "once bitten, twice shy?" I think the wiring is just shoestring licorice from the looks of it.
Replace your current unit with a quality power supply and no adapters.

You don't need a very expensive unit, but something competent.
How do you know your garbage PSUs are 85 or somewhat degrees? That PSUs don't have sensors you can read out!
And the Everest one is also not a good unit. You need to try with a decent one.
I just found out the "ITE IT8772E" that is displayed on my open hardware monitor temps was a chip, i think it's the mobo? Not the PSU, that explains why the CPU and PSU always seemed to be at more or less the same temp which didn't make sense, again sorry for the confusion haha. I think the PSU is actually pretty cool then since i hover my hand over the part where air comes out of it and it's always very cool

I had to get this PSU when I was in college and money was very tight, and I didn't know how important the PSU was, I'm thinking of replacing it with a Corsair 750W 80+ Gold, or do you think 650W would be enough?


I think the wiring is just shoestring licorice from the looks of it.
What do you mean? the wiring on the PSU cables or on other components?
 
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Colif

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20 years ago I didn't know any better than to buy a cheap Psu when my current one died. It took me a while to work that bit out, and now I choose Psu before most other parts of the pc.
But I have not forgotten what I was like before.
 
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Egossi

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I would consider using the top fan as exhaust as it might help more, it might be just causing turbulence where it is
If you could mount it above CPU it would help more

650 should be enough
Thanks! I made the top fan exhaust on top of the cpu, and I'll be buying a corsair 650W 80+ gold now

20 years ago I didn't know any better than to buy a cheap Psu when my current one died. It took me a while to work that bit out, and now I choose Psu before most other parts of the pc.
But I have not forgotten what I was like before.
Yeah, never again haha
If im cheaping out it'll just be the mobo next time
 

Vic 40

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Ambassador
sorry for the unclear photo, the roof fan is just from my old case, its intake, and the front has a mesh panel that takes the air in
Those front panel fans would i move more to the middle where they can pull air in, now are they pretty much at the top and bottom where the panel is closed off. And an Colif said move the top fan to the back above the cpu cooler as exhaust.

Get the feeling form the back picture that you place the psu fan up which makes it draw warm air in from the inside of the case, see ventilation at the bottom so would be better to place it fan downwards so it can pull cooler air in from outside.
 
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Colif

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i doubt either front fan is doing much right now. Best spot for a fan is right between both as it lines up with vents on front, might be better off with just 1 fan on front. remove top fan and raise bottom one so its not just feeding the PSU fresh air.


The top fan is facing solid plastic, as is the bottom one. Ideal spot for front fan is right between them. you can see where vent starts in top shot by the slight change in the front panel, its solid plastic below that point.

So if I am being generous the top of the bottom fan has access to the vent but most of its air gets blown at the PSU since its under the shroud. Top fan could be getting air from top of vent but most of it is pointing at solid plastic.
Fans aren't very effective when placed against solid surfaces.
Top fan should be put just above the bottom one if you want it to help at all. It would be pointing right at GPU there too.

All your parts heat up but without enough air getting in, it doesn't really have a reason to leave.

chunky thumb screws holding the glass on - help explain someone else's cases, what I thought were the case feet on his case probably held glass on.

I would really consider a new case (again) but one with enough ventilation to keep parts cool. It doesn't have to be as open as mine but PC need to be able to breath and let hot air out



at least the 2 exhausts in yours get the heat out but the intakes really aren't doing their jobs. Its not their fault
 
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Egossi

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Those front panel fans would i move more to the middle where they can pull air in, now are they pretty much at the top and bottom where the panel is closed off. And an Colif said move the top fan to the back above the cpu cooler as exhaust.

Get the feeling form the back picture that you place the psu fan up which makes it draw warm air in from the inside of the case, see ventilation at the bottom so would be better to place it fan downwards so it can pull cooler air in from outside.
i doubt either front fan is doing much right now. Best spot for a fan is right between both as it lines up with vents on front, might be better off with just 1 fan on front. remove top fan and raise bottom one so its not just feeding the PSU fresh air.


The top fan is facing solid plastic, as is the bottom one. Ideal spot for front fan is right between them. you can see where vent starts in top shot by the slight change in the front panel, its solid plastic below that point.

So if I am being generous the top of the bottom fan has access to the vent but most of its air gets blown at the PSU since its under the shroud. Top fan could be getting air from top of vent but most of it is pointing at solid plastic.
Fans aren't very effective when placed against solid surfaces.
Top fan should be put just above the bottom one if you want it to help at all. It would be pointing right at GPU there too.

All your parts heat up but without enough air getting in, it doesn't really have a reason to leave.

chunky thumb screws holding the glass on - help explain someone else's cases, what I thought were the case feet on his case probably held glass on.

I would really consider a new case (again) but one with enough ventilation to keep parts cool. It doesn't have to be as open as mine but PC need to be able to breath and let hot air out



at least the 2 exhausts in yours get the heat out but the intakes really aren't doing their jobs. Its not their fault
Thanks for the advice, here is what my pc looks like now after I adjusted it according to the advice
View: https://imgur.com/a/djjhWRv
The top of the case as I said is a mesh, so the exhaust on top of CPU is actually working out really well, I moved one of the front fans to cover the vent, and I have noticed improvements on the temps, which is now making me question whether or not the airflow and temps were at fault all along? Also the PSU does take air in from the bottom, through the dust vent at the bottom i've taken a picture of

Now I've been testing my PC until my psu arrives (i know, probably irresponsible), and since i've tinkered with things my pc works stably until i game for a little while

I get on a game, everything is at max load, cpu reaches a max of around 79 degrees and goes down and up, gpu goes up to max of 75, after about 20 minutes of gaming (sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes 120 minutes) at max settings, 60fps no problems, my pc starts to freeze, after a couple of freezes of up to a minute or so, it BSOD's or just doesnt unfreeze
again, I am very confused, is it my PSU? or is it actually my mobo or something? when i lower my GPU's power limit to -50% on afterburner and set core voltage to -20 and play my games at minimum settings at 60 fps, no freezes happen at all, was it all just overheating before and shutting off? was the temp sensors not displaying correctly? I don't get it and I apologize if I'm not providing enough context for anything

Keep in mind all of these problems started occuring after i changed my case, which is a decision i very much regret now, but on the bright side my GPU doesnt reach 85 degrees anymore, is it possible that the new case's 3 new fans and the LED and maybe the panel's power draw is just what the PSU needed to not have enough capacity?
 
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Colif

Win 10 Master
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if you getting BSOD,

Can you follow option one on the following link - here - and then do this step below: Small memory dumps - Have Windows Create a Small Memory Dump (Minidump) on BSOD - that creates a file in c windows/minidump after the next BSOD

  1. Open Windows File Explore
  2. Navigate to C:\Windows\Minidump
  3. Copy the mini-dump files out onto your Desktop
  4. Do not use Winzip, use the built in facility in Windows
  5. Select those files on your Desktop, right click them and choose 'Send to' - Compressed (zipped) folder
  6. Upload the zip file to the Cloud (OneDrive, DropBox . . . etc.)
  7. Then post a link here to the zip file, so we can take a look for you . . .
PSU can cause BSOD so until its replaced, we can't be sure if it wasn't cause or not.
 

Egossi

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if you getting BSOD,

Can you follow option one on the following link - here - and then do this step below: Small memory dumps - Have Windows Create a Small Memory Dump (Minidump) on BSOD - that creates a file in c windows/minidump after the next BSOD

  1. Open Windows File Explore
  2. Navigate to C:\Windows\Minidump
  3. Copy the mini-dump files out onto your Desktop
  4. Do not use Winzip, use the built in facility in Windows
  5. Select those files on your Desktop, right click them and choose 'Send to' - Compressed (zipped) folder
  6. Upload the zip file to the Cloud (OneDrive, DropBox . . . etc.)
  7. Then post a link here to the zip file, so we can take a look for you . . .
PSU can cause BSOD so until its replaced, we can't be sure if it wasn't cause or not.
https://files.catbox.moe/md9t5h.rar
 

gardenman

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Hi, I ran the dump files through the debugger and got the following information: https://jsfiddle.net/fw7jasm0/show This link is for anyone wanting to help. You do not have to view it. It is safe to "run the fiddle" as the page asks.
File information:082921-9656-01.dmp (Aug 29 2021 - 07:03:34)
Bugcheck:HAL_INITIALIZATION_FAILED (5C)
Probably caused by:ntkrnlmp.exe (Process: ?)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 1 Hour(s), 02 Min(s), and 05 Sec(s)

File information:082821-5218-01.dmp (Aug 28 2021 - 13:03:30)
Bugcheck:UNEXPECTED_STORE_EXCEPTION (154)
Probably caused by:hardware_disk (Process: MemCompression)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 4 Hour(s), 01 Min(s), and 02 Sec(s)

File information:082521-6343-01.dmp (Aug 25 2021 - 06:28:15)
Bugcheck:MEMORY_MANAGEMENT (1A)
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: MemCompression)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 09 Min(s), and 58 Sec(s)

File information:080421-5640-01.dmp (Aug 4 2021 - 14:34:51)
Bugcheck:MEMORY_MANAGEMENT (1A)
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: MemCompression)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 20 Hour(s), 57 Min(s), and 23 Sec(s)

File information:072721-5875-01.dmp (Jul 27 2021 - 15:35:23)
Bugcheck:MEMORY_MANAGEMENT (1A)
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: MemCompression)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 9 Hour(s), 05 Min(s), and 26 Sec(s)
Comment: The overclocking driver "XtuAcpiDriver.sys" was found on your system. (Intel Extreme Tuning Utility)

Comment: The overclocking driver "RTCore64.sys" was found on your system. (MSI Afterburner)

Comment: hardware_disk was mentioned in one of the crashes.

System: CASPER NIRVANA DESKTOP
I have no idea if there are any BIOS updates or not since the site for it is not in English.

This information can be used by others to help you. Someone else will post with more information. Please wait for additional answers. Good luck.
 

Colif

Win 10 Master
Moderator
HAL_FAILED_TO_RESTART_PROCESSOR_AFTER_SLEEP
HAL = Hardware Abstraction Layer, its used by windows to talk to hardware directly

top error isn't one I see very often. Others are more common

they all start same.
CPU looks for info in ram, can't find it so it goes to storage, CPU acts on info collected and its after this step it varies. Error 3,4 & 5 appear to happen on storage but it may not mean drives are to blame, just that the info PC got wasn't what it expected to find.

Maybe check health of drives
Samsung Magician - https://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/download/tools/ (run diagnostics, smart tests)
Sandisk - https://www.techspot.com/downloads/5363-sandisk-ssd-toolkit.html

I wonder what temps ssd are getting

lower quality PSU create more heat trying to power PC compared to more efficient ones

lets look at drivers
I used to use Speedfan but it doesn't know what my CPU is.
Apr 12 2017XtuAcpiDriver.sys!!! Intel Extreme Tuning BIOS Interface driver https://downloadcenter.intel.com/
That isn't needed, you can't overclock your CPU anyway

download Win10 Auto Installation Program from under Windows header here - https://www.realtek.com/en/component/zoo/category/network-interface-controllers-10-100-1000m-gigabit-ethernet-pci-express-software (probably won't help but can't hurt)

not sure about top error. Its unusual.

MB from 2013, not likely to have newer drivers that will help really
https://www.ecs.com.tw/en/Product/Motherboard/H81H3-M4_V1.0A/download nothing here about a bios
 
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Egossi

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Very interesting, from what I'm getting there's a good chance the mobo is to blame though? I'll update what happens and how things change once I get my new PSU
I doubt the SSDs are at fault, samsung one is boot and has a total of 32 TB written on it, shows up healthy on samsung magician and in all benchmarks and i ran startup repair/disk repair and the problem presists, a secondary storage ssd wouldnt cause this i'd imagine
I wonder what temps ssd are getting
ive checked them and they get a max of 42 celcius

I also spent yesterday playing Terraria which has no load on GPU, streaming firefox on discord playing videos for the entire day and had no freezes, stutters, crashes or anything, as soon as I do something new though the PC freezes or BSODs, I just turned my PC on, got on this website with discord and steam open in the background and my PC BSOD'd again, it feels very random, evertime I think "Aha, this is whats causing it" it makes sure to let me know I'm wrong

here's two new BSOD logs since yesterday, thanks for all the help and attention btw, I'm not very hopeful about my system at this point but we'll see how new PSU affects it
https://files.catbox.moe/rj05n7.rar
 
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Egossi

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I got my new Corsair CV650 and the problem no longer presists whatsoever, I went back to overclocking my GPU, I even give it normal voltage and everything, everything works without any issues now
thanks for all the help and suggestions

And for any kids reading, remember, never cheap out on your PSU
 
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