PSU died - Replaced and now the computer is frying all drives.

[amppp]

After my CX750M Corsair power supply died, I replaced it with an EVGA Supernova 750w G2 fully modular psu. My rig is now frying drives when I try to install a new one. I assume it's my motherboard, and have submitted an RMA for them to check out the situation, as well as submitting RMAs for the lost drives, etc. Could this be anything else? Could my CPU also be messed up?

 

[turkey3_scratch]

I don't think your new PSU is frying anything. I think your old one could have. First off, how do you know your drives are fried? It could be an issue with the motherboard, or SATA ports, for instance. Or do you actually see burn marks on the hard drives?

 

[amppp]

I don't think your new PSU is frying anything. I think your old one could have. First off, how do you know your drives are fried? It could be an issue with the motherboard, or SATA ports, for instance. Or do you actually see burn marks on the hard drives?

I tried my SSD and HDD on another system, and the BIOS did not recognize. My own system would not recognize in UEFI, either. I did not check for marks directly on the drives. I could only think that it would be a motherboard problem; wether it's the the sata ports or something else.

 

[turkey3_scratch]

Hmm... Are these the same SSD and HDD as were in when the CX died?

 

[amppp]

Hmm... Are these the same SSD and HDD as were in when the CX died?

Those two I have filed RMAs for. But, to make sure, I bought another SSD (not a big deal, as I was playing to make a dual-booting system anyways), and plugged it in. On startup, I instantly could smell the burning.

 

[turkey3_scratch]

Then something is wrong, the short circuit protection of the power supply should kick in when something like that happens. Very strange, but you could have possibly gotten a unit with a fault.

 

[amppp]

Then something is wrong, the short circuit protection of the power supply should kick in when something like that happens. Very strange, but you could have possibly gotten a unit with a fault.

So, you think it could be a PSU issue? I've never had this happen with a PSU, so, I'm a bit of a skeptic.

 

[turkey3_scratch]

I'm unsure. I don't want to make any conclusions though, so I'll try to get someone else here to help out with a little more expertise than me.

 

[amppp]

I'm unsure. I don't want to make any conclusions though, so I'll try to get someone else here to help out with a little more expertise than me.

Thanks for trying man. It was bought at a MicroCenter not far, so, should I call and ask if there is an exchange policy, and maybe they could test or something? Just at a loss of how to diagnose it's the power supply without destroying my own supplies haha

 

[turkey3_scratch]

Not really easy without a digital multi-meter, and even then that only measures voltages and not any oscillation in the voltage. I just highly doubt the PSU is actually frying your drives. You would notice, or protections would kick in, and other stuff would happen.

 

[logainofhades]

I hope that you are using a surge protector and are not plugged directly into the wall.

 

[Darkbreeze]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-1753671/bench-troubleshooting.html

 

[amppp]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-1753671/bench-troubleshooting.html

Thanks for the tip; Will have to try in the morning! But, if it was a faulty PSU, wouldn't other things die off too? Why would it be just my drives? (Sorry if these questions are dumb!)

And yes, I always make sure to use a surge protector @logainofhades lol

 

[Darkbreeze]

There are MANY circuits in the PSU. Any ONE or ALL of them can be shorted, grounded or weak, on any given unit. And, it's not NECESSARILY that it's the PSU, but you want to eliminate it from the equation as there are few ways to positively convict a motherboard aside from eliminating everything else, without expensive equipment.

I would absolutely double and triple check your motherboard and other connections to verify that you haven't accidentally plugged something into a socket it was not intended to be used on. And if you're using any adapters, eliminate them. Bench testing and testing the power supply itself with nothing connected to the PSU except the supply cable from the wall should be your first course of action.

 

[Someone Somewhere]

Surge protectors only kick in in very high-energy events - any good PSU should have similar levels of input protection. Generally a good idea, but doesn't matter here.

Are you using the modular cables from the old PSU? Even if they fit, they may not be wired the same.

 

[logainofhades]

And yes, I always make sure to use a surge protector @logainofhades lol

You would be surprised how many do not, which is why I had to ask. Had a couple different users that were not using one, in just the past week or two.

 

[Darkbreeze]

While I don't agree with many of the doctrines that Westom used to prescribe to, one thing I will agree with is that the VAST majority of surge protectors are worthless. What I don't agree with is his pennies on the dollar thing. If you have a good unit, and by good I mean something made by a well respected manufacturer like Tripp-Lite, Leviton or Eaton, then it's worth having. If you paid ten bucks for it at walmart or less at the dollar store, or if it's made by Monster or Belkin or a similar flavor of the month brand, it's probably worthless except as a power strip.

A false sense of security is all that is provided by the majority of "surge protectors". A good quality PSU, good quality surge protector and a breaker on that circuit at the panel are what you should have IMO. But, my opinion my not coincide with that of others, so be that as it may.

And also, as SS said, it's additionally pretty much worthless except in high energy events and that means a direct short to the external circuit or a lightning strike, both of which are on the wall side of the PSU. Surge protectors, as far as I'm aware, don't protect against excessive current draw from a direct short or other issue on the opposite (Motherboard) side of the power supply. That protection is supposed to be a part of the power supply. I suppose if the draw was big enough a surge protector might kick in, but since it takes very little to toast PC components, it would likely be far too late anyhow.

 

[logainofhades]

I forget who made my surge protector. It wasn't some walmart cheapy though.

 

[Someone Somewhere]

While I don't agree with many of the doctrines that Westom used to prescribe to, one thing I will agree with is that the VAST majority of surge protectors are worthless. What I don't agree with is his pennies on the dollar thing. If you have a good unit, and by good I mean something made by a well respected manufacturer like Tripp-Lite, Leviton or Eaton, then it's worth having. If you paid ten bucks for it at walmart or less at the dollar store, or if it's made by Monster or Belkin or a similar flavor of the month brand, it's probably worthless except as a power strip.

A false sense of security is all that is provided by the majority of "surge protectors". A good quality PSU, good quality surge protector and a breaker on that circuit at the panel are what you should have IMO. But, my opinion my not coincide with that of others, so be that as it may.

And also, as SS said, it's additionally pretty much worthless except in high energy events and that means a direct short to the external circuit or a lightning strike, both of which are on the wall side of the PSU. Surge protectors, as far as I'm aware, don't protect against excessive current draw from a direct short or other issue on the opposite (Motherboard) side of the power supply. That protection is supposed to be a part of the power supply. I suppose if the draw was big enough a surge protector might kick in, but since it takes very little to toast PC components, it would likely be far too late anyhow.

I may have to pull one open and check, but I don't think they'll have any more than the same old couple of cheap MOVs. IIRC Tom's tore some down a while back.

Circuit breaker vs fuse is a non-issue for appliances. Main issues are safety when replacing them, and possibly fire hazard with re-wireable ones. Fuses tend to have higher breaking capacities for the same volume.

 

[Grumpy275]

While I don't agree with many of the doctrines that Westom used to prescribe to, one thing I will agree with is that the VAST majority of surge protectors are worthless. What I don't agree with is his pennies on the dollar thing. If you have a good unit, and by good I mean something made by a well respected manufacturer like Tripp-Lite, Leviton or Eaton, then it's worth having. If you paid ten bucks for it at walmart or less at the dollar store, or if it's made by Monster or Belkin or a similar flavor of the month brand, it's probably worthless except as a power strip.

A false sense of security is all that is provided by the majority of "surge protectors". A good quality PSU, good quality surge protector and a breaker on that circuit at the panel are what you should have IMO. But, my opinion my not coincide with that of others, so be that as it may.

And also, as SS said, it's additionally pretty much worthless except in high energy events and that means a direct short to the external circuit or a lightning strike, both of which are on the wall side of the PSU. Surge protectors, as far as I'm aware, don't protect against excessive current draw from a direct short or other issue on the opposite (Motherboard) side of the power supply. That protection is supposed to be a part of the power supply. I suppose if the draw was big enough a surge protector might kick in, but since it takes very little to toast PC components, it would likely be far too late anyhow.

I did some design work on Surge Protectors in 1977, so have a little idea what I am talking about. The purpose of a Surge Protector is to block a surge before it does anything to harm an appliance connected to the Mains supply or a telephone line.
THe surges are often caused by a Lightening strike in the vicinity of the cables. When I was working on the subject the cables were underground on Airfields. I dont think the Basic problem with the Power Supply and the Drives cooking is a Surge Protector problem.
THe first thing to do is get the Power Supply checked outand as already stated dont mix the modular cables. If you are in the practice of working on any electronic equipment you should have a Multimeter. They are not expensive and are usefull for many tasks. It is easy to check the outputs of the Power supply. Break the problem down to small steps. Check the Power supply unit (PSU) then connect the PSU to the Motherboard one cable at a time and check the volts on the cable. THen you can try to connect any drives etc one at a time and monitor the PSU. By working one step at a time you should get a pointer to any problem.
One final comment on Surge Protectors. I run my computers on an Uninteruptable power supply. The type I use is an active type If the input volts are low it will Boost the Output and if the input is high it will Buck or reduce the output any surges are also "Dumped" so my machines are protected and any work I am doing is also protected from power outages.

 

[Someone Somewhere]

PSU will not deliver power unless the mobo tells it to, and the mobo will usually cut the power if it doesn't sense voltage appearing on one connector. Hot-plugging is also not a good idea; most of the connectors aren't designed for it.

UPSs don't buck/boost the voltage. Either they're connected straight-through (normal operation), or they're running off the battery.

 

[Grumpy275]

PSU will not deliver power unless the mobo tells it to, and the mobo will usually cut the power if it doesn't sense voltage appearing on one connector. Hot-plugging is also not a good idea; most of the connectors aren't designed for it.

UPSs don't buck/boost the voltage. Either they're connected straight-through (normal operation), or they're running off the battery.

I dont wish to get off subject but I can assure you the UPS I use does Boost and Buck . I am in the UK and the UPS can be viewed here..http://www.powerinspired.com/vis1000b-1kva-sine-wave-ups-system-p-1781.html.

I agree that most UPS units do not Boost and Buck so whan selecting any equipment you should check the Specification to ensure it is just what you want.
Finally I would always recomend that when selecting a PSU of any other unit you go for a higher spec than chance a lower spec unit.

 

[Someone Somewhere]

Hmm, that is unusual.

Of course, boost at least is completely useless if you're running on 230V, given almost anything with a decent switchmode supply will run happily down to ~90VAC. And wildly excessive voltage is not common...

 

[Grumpy275]

Hmm, that is unusual.

Of course, boost at least is completely useless if you're running on 230V, given almost anything with a decent switchmode supply will run happily down to ~90VAC. And wildly excessive voltage is not common...

I dont disagree with your comment is essence however not all electrical goods have switched mode PSU's My supply here in the UK sits at around 250 volts most of the time. The spec is 230 volts + or - 10% so it can go up to 253 volts and still be in spec. If we wish to continue this perhaps we should do it in a new thread or on PM

 

[Jerimon]

PSU will not deliver power unless the mobo tells it to, and the mobo will usually cut the power if it doesn't sense voltage appearing on one connector. Hot-plugging is also not a good idea; most of the connectors aren't designed for it.

The motherboard tells the power supply to run via a signal cable in the motherboard connector. Shorting this to ground (another pin) causes the power supply to run as if it were powered up, allowing one to test voltages without installation.