[SOLVED] PSU voltage Compatibility

[naguib nader]

Greetings All
i m planning on upgrading my 9 years old rig from

Intel Core i7-5820
Asus x99-a
2*8 ddr4
RTX2080
Seasonic 850w Bronze

to :
ASUS ROG Strix Z790-F Gaming WiFi 6E LGA 1700
Intel Core i5-13600KF
CORSAIR Vengeance DDR5 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 5200
i will keep the GPU for now

currently i m lived in Egypt operating at 220V supply voltage and 50Hz
& i want to buy a new PSU from amazon would be compatible with operating voltage & frequency or it will be risky to get it
the reason behind buying a new one overseas too many options & also in amazon is more cheaper even after customs & shipping

Another question as i m getting confused according to current higher consumption specially in GPU & CPU as well
would the priority to be the certificate or the watt seize
i m planning to get 1200 watt with at least gold certificate any recommendation will be much appreciated

Thnx in advance sorry for the long post

 

[Darkbreeze]

If you buy from US based Amazon you will not get one that is compatible with your plug, and using adapters is really not desirable. If you order from another country with a plug style that is the same as yours and has a 220v power grid then you should be fine and there ARE some regions in the UK and Europe where Amazon is probably even closer to you than US based Amazon and might have something compatible. Generally though, you are better off buying in country. Most modern power supplies, if they are even halfway decent, have automatic power factor correction so it doesn't matter if the grid is 110 or 220 it should work. But that does you no good if it's shipped to you with the wrong kind of cable which is why ordering from the same region so that you get the correct type of cable is important.

Neither the "certificate" nor the "watt size" are what matters. Neither of them means anything, at all. Nothing. Certifications can, and are, faked all the time. Or earned, but then the design is swapped to one that is cheaper and the certification used anyhow. And even for units with valid certifications, it only tells you about it's efficiency. It says nothing about quality or performance at all. Certification is ONLY of importance IF the unit is already a known good model.

Watts don't matter either. There are 1000w units I wouldn't trust to power a damn light bulb and certainly would never connect to my hardware.

MODEL is what matters, and you can determine what is a good model by looking at professional reviews. If there are no professional reviews of a PSU model, then it's probably a piece of crap, or it is too new and hasn't had a chance to be reviewed yet.

You can use these two links to help you find a good model. Stick to models that are recommended or that are no lower than Tier B at the worst, from the Cultists tier list. Preferably, Tier A.

Discussion - PSU recommendations and power supply discussion thread - Tom's hardware

Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...

forums.tomshardware.com

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Darkbreeze]

But also, so long as the PSU you get has active PFC (Power factor correction) it shouldn't matter where you get it from as you should be able to get a cable that will plug into it AND be compatible with your grid, but that is also an extra expense.

 

[naguib nader]

If you buy from US based Amazon you will not get one that is compatible with your plug, and using adapters is really not desirable. If you order from another country with a plug style that is the same as yours and has a 220v power grid then you should be fine and there ARE some regions in the UK and Europe where Amazon is probably even closer to you than US based Amazon and might have something compatible. Generally though, you are better off buying in country. Most modern power supplies, if they are even halfway decent, have automatic power factor correction so it doesn't matter if the grid is 110 or 220 it should work. But that does you no good if it's shipped to you with the wrong kind of cable which is why ordering from the same region so that you get the correct type of cable is important.

Actually amazon US the only region that available from any other region or any similar websites that can be shipped directly to Egypt so i don't have much option right now as the prices here is far beyond any reasonable range

Neither the "certificate" nor the "watt size" are what matters. Neither of them means anything, at all. Nothing. Certifications can, and are, faked all the time. Or earned, but then the design is swapped to one that is cheaper and the certification used anyhow. And even for units with valid certifications, it only tells you about it's efficiency. It says nothing about quality or performance at all. Certification is ONLY of importance IF the unit is already a known good model.

Thanks for fast & detailed reply i m taking your advice if u remember my older thread as u advised me not taking any risks with my old PSU
anyway u got me more confused about neither the certificate nor the watt are matters
but i mean if i will upgrade my GPU later on & go for 3xxx , 4xxx or even 5xxx i need to be on safe zone regarding at at least 1000-1200 watt

Watts don't matter either. There are 1000w units I wouldn't trust to power a damn light bulb and certainly would never connect to my hardware.

MODEL is what matters, and you can determine what is a good model by looking at professional reviews. If there are no professional reviews of a PSU model, then it's probably a piece of crap, or it is too new and hasn't had a chance to be reviewed yet.

You can use these two links to help you find a good model. Stick to models that are recommended or that are no lower than Tier B at the worst, from the Cultists tier list. Preferably, Tier A.

Thanks again as usual bro for detailed threads hope the tier thread will be updated soon that's my first time to know that's both (Cooler Master and Thermaltake should be completely avoided)
kind of a shock for me i was thinking they were good PSUs i will stick to get one of tier A of course considering PFC (Power factor correction)

Discussion - PSU recommendations and power supply discussion thread - Tom's hardware

Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...

forums.tomshardware.com

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[naguib nader]

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...

forums.tomshardware.com

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i tried tier A list blue & orange is not available any more or newer version has been released hopefully the thread will be updated soon

 

[Darkbreeze]

Try this:

PSU Tier List rev. 17.0g - Cultists Network

PSU Tier List will help you to choose the best PSU out of hundreds of models on the market. From budget to the highest end Power Supplies.

cultists.network

 

[naguib nader]

Try this:

PSU Tier List rev. 17.0g - Cultists Network

PSU Tier List will help you to choose the best PSU out of hundreds of models on the market. From budget to the highest end Power Supplies.

cultists.network

one last question bro
can u give me your opinion about the below PSU & if support PFC cause i could not find it anywhere in the specs
& which tire will considered as in other thread ur advice that Thermaltake should be avoided

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Toughpower-Crossfire-Hydraulic-PS-TPD-0850FNFAGU-1/dp/B097GCDT62/ref=sr_1_2?crid=Y77CEXJPRVDZ&keywords=THERMALTAKE+TOUGHPOWER+GF1+1200W+TT+PREMIUM+80+PLUS+GOLD+FULLY+MODULAR+POWER+Supply&qid=1671358119&sprefix=thermaltake+toughpower+gf1+1200w+tt+premium+80+plus+gold+fully+modular+power+supply,aps,417&sr=8-2&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0&th=1

 

[Darkbreeze]

Toughpower GF1 is a very decent unit and yes, it has APFC. You still may need a different cable though, that will plug into the PSU but also plug into your wall socket at the other end. But the PSU itself should work fine.

 

[naguib nader]

Toughpower GF1 is a very decent unit and yes, it has APFC. You still may need a different cable though, that will plug into the PSU but also plug into your wall socket at the other end. But the PSU itself should work fine.

Regarding new generation of PSU that it will released soon should i wait for them to get the newest PSU on market as i m not upgrading every year
as my last rig lasts almost a decade now & i don't have so much info about them right now as its my first to know that even PSU have generation versions as well
sorry again bro for my repeated questions

 

[Darkbreeze]

There is no need for an ATX 3.0 power supply especially since you're not running a high end RTX 4080 or 4090. And even if you were going to go with one of those they come with an adapter to convert from 8 pin connectors to the 16 pin that is needed.

Is there a reason you are looking at going with a 1200w unit? Because you definitely don't need a 1200w unit for anything short of an RTX 4090 and if you are going to pay 2000 dollars for an RTX 4090 then yes, THEN you might want to consider buying an even better power supply and getting one that is already ATX 3.0 compatible.

 

[naguib nader]

There is no need for an ATX 3.0 power supply especially since you're not running a high end RTX 4080 or 4090. And even if you were going to go with one of those they come with an adapter to convert from 8 pin connectors to the 16 pin that is needed.

Is there a reason you are looking at going with a 1200w unit? Because you definitely don't need a 1200w unit for anything short of an RTX 4090 and if you are going to pay 2000 dollars for an RTX 4090 then yes, THEN you might want to consider buying an even better power supply and getting one that is already ATX 3.0 compatible.

yes bro absolutely i will go even more for 4090ti or 5xxx when its released
thats why i asked to get 3.0 PSU or not & which range of watt should i get because there is a huge jump in power consumption these days even regarding CPU not to mention GPU
especially my aim is to play 4k-120 FPS in the near future
so seeking your recommendation as there is no much info around regarding PSU 3.0

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, Corsair and all of the other major PSU companies have already stated, and shown, that their existing pre-3.0 models will work fine with newer hardware requiring the 16 pin connector if using the authorized adapters. Of course, if you do so you will want to get a unit that is a few hundred watts higher, at least, than the recommended capacity because of power excursions or transient spikes. Which are essentially the same thing.

The biggest changes for the ATX 3.0 spec are the fact that they are required to be able to handle brief periods that are 3x the listed capacity of the PSU to handle these "power excursions", which again, are transient spikes and are more and more common and more and more significant with newer generation cards. And also have the 12vhpwr 16 pin connector as well as adhering to a moderately lower low power state similar to Intel's ATX12VO 1.0/2.0 low power states.

So, here is a lot of good information on ATX 3.0 that is easily digestible.

https://www.pcworld.com/article/631...upplies-their-first-overhaul-in-20-years.html


And which type you get really depends on what you want to spend and where you are located because these are still not terribly widespread yet and they are definitely not very cheap.

 

[naguib nader]

So, Corsair and all of the other major PSU companies have already stated, and shown, that their existing pre-3.0 models will work fine with newer hardware requiring the 16 pin connector if using the authorized adapters. Of course, if you do so you will want to get a unit that is a few hundred watts higher, at least, than the recommended capacity because of power excursions or transient spikes. Which are essentially the same thing.

The biggest changes for the ATX 3.0 spec are the fact that they are required to be able to handle brief periods that are 3x the listed capacity of the PSU to handle these "power excursions", which again, are transient spikes and are more and more common and more and more significant with newer generation cards. And also have the 12vhpwr 16 pin connector as well as adhering to a moderately lower low power state similar to Intel's ATX12VO 1.0/2.0 low power states.

So, here is a lot of good information on ATX 3.0 that is easily digestible.

https://www.pcworld.com/article/631...upplies-their-first-overhaul-in-20-years.html


And which type you get really depends on what you want to spend and where you are located because these are still not terribly widespread yet and they are definitely not very cheap.

its a very important for me to have a powerful PSU that's what i already on my previous build which helps me to upgrade my GPU like 4 times from 970,980ti,1080ti till my current one 2080
so right now obviously there is a huge jump regarding power consumption especially in 4xxx i don't know if this gonna drop in next generation or just keep growing so i see that 1200 watt is maybe not enough in the future
so all i know that PSU to be future proof like my 850 seasonic did an excellent job which was not cheap 9 years ago

 

[Darkbreeze]

How much are you willing to spend on a power supply? That is really the only question.

 

[naguib nader]

How much are you willing to spend on a power supply? That is really the only question.

i don't know bro i cannot say exactly i told what i want in PSU

ATX 3.0
at least platinum certificate
1200-1300 watt
support PFC

at what price should i have all the above specs

 

[naguib nader]

How much are you willing to spend on a power supply? That is really the only question.

as i actually didn't know but lets start with 350-400$ range
i don't know if it will be enough for the below


ATX 3.0
at least platinum certificate
1200-1300 watt
support PFC

 

[Darkbreeze]

For the 350-400 dollar range, this is your best bet. If you want a better unit, it's going to cost more.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 TT Premium 1650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($329.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $329.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-12-20 12:46 EST-0500


Review:

Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 1650W ATX v3.0 PSU Review - Hardware Busters

Hardware Busters - Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 1650W ATX v3.0 PSU Review - PSUs

hwbusters.com