Q6600 OC

[jb11]

I'm new to overclocking and I've been reading a lot of people's tips and instructions here and on other sites. Just starting at the basic adjustments needed in bios, I want to see if I've understood the concept.

First, my rig- Core 2 Quad Q6600 G0 stepping, ASUS P5Q SE/R, 4x1GB Kingston HyperX DDR2 1066, GeForce 9800GTX

From what I understand, the basic adjustment I want to make is the FSB Frequency, which is 266 for the CPU. The CPU Ratio multiplier on this mobo is locked 6-9, 9 being the default. My DRAM Frequency is set to auto, but I changed it to DDR2-1066 before any other adjustments anyway.

I know I can OC over 3GHz with this Quad, but I want to start easy and run it at 2.8GHz for a bit. I know changing my multiplier to 7 and the FSB to 400, I can get 2.8GHz. The DRAM automatically changes to DDR2-1603 in the BIOS, so I have to reselect DDR2-1066. I now have the core speed running at 2.8GHz, and the DRAM Frequency as showing ~533MHz at 3:4 FSB: DRAM. (CPU-Z) It also idles at ~40 degrees C. (Core Temp)

First, Low Multiplier+High FSB versus High Multiplier+Low FSB. Which is generally better?

Also, when do I need to worry about voltages?

Thanks in advance.

 

[faster3200]

Higher multipliers will always give you the best OC so there is no point in lower it.

Increase your fsb by 5mhz at a time and then stability test. When your proc becomes unstable then increase the voltage and retest. Also, keep your ram at 1:1 until you finish OCing your cpu, when you do then you OC your ram.

 

[jb11]

Stock, my ratio is 1:2. So even with 1066, I want to set my DRAM to 533 to stay 1:1 until I'm done overclocking the cpu?

I understand using the increase FSB/test stability method for finding my max OC, but what if I'm just staying at around 2.8GHz? Shouldn't I just be able to set the FSB to 310-311 (x9) and my DRAM at DDR2-1066 and be fine?

 

[rockbyter]

with the memory at or below its rating most often it'll be fine, the memory speed just happens to be linked to the processor, so you get the processor as high as it wants to go, and adjust the memory from there.

 

[faster3200]

with the memory at or below its rating most often it'll be fine, the memory speed just happens to be linked to the processor, so you get the processor as high as it wants to go, and adjust the memory from there.

Correct, I guess I should have expanded on this thought. What this does is it rules put your mem as the cause of instability when testing; because if you OC your ram and CPU and you get an error how do you know which one cause the error?

 

[jb11]

So for 1:1, I'm setting my DRAM to DDR2-533 for DDR2-1066 RAM. That means my DRAM Frequency at FSB 266MHz for my stock core speed of 2.4GHz is going to be 266MHz.

Let's say I get my FSB to 333MHz, setting my core speed at 2997MHz. My DRAM Frequency will be 333MHz. At this point, do I want to keep it 1:1 or do I want to try to get my DRAM Frequency to 533MHz? Wouldn't I want my DDR2-1066 to be set at DDR2-1066?

 

[faster3200]

You want it to be set as low as possible until you are done OCing your cpu. Once you are done then you can go back and you can adjust the divider so you are running at a faster ratio.

 

[jb11]

That's what I meant- after I OC the CPU to where I want it.

 

[Zorg]

The first thing to understand is that the Core 2 architecture is not very sensitive to the RAM speed. You made a mistake paying any extra money for the DDR21066 RAM, ignore that and move on. Don't think you need to run the RAM at it's max rating. At 1066 you will probably need more voltage i.e., 2.2V to keep it stable. That plus the additional current required for the higher speed will make it run hot and really give you little or no real world performance gain. Download CPU-Z and look at the SPD tab. This will tell you the timings that can be set for the various speeds. Note that the timings are tighter for lower speeds, which will compensate for the speed difference. You should be able to lower the voltage at 667 or 800 to reduce heat and prolong the life of the RAM.

1:1 is technically the best because it will reduce the processing required by the northbridge to adjust the speed with a different multiplier, but it's not that big of a deal IMO, unless you are OCing to the max.

This whole raise 5Mhz and test is a great idea when at the edge, but would take a lifetime raising the FSB from 2.8G.

Your idle temps are high. I'm assuming you are using the stock HS. Get an aftermarket one ASAP.
You should test your load temps with Prime95 (use small FFTs) and Core Temp or Real Temp. Make sure you run it at least 10-15 minutes or until the temps stabilize. Keep them below 70C and preferably below 65C. My temps at 3.2G are 62,62,60,60 with 70F-72F ambient. with a TR Ultra120 Ex. and the Xigmatek s1283 with the backplate are equivalent. Try the XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 with the XIGMATEK ACK-I7751 Retention Bracket. It works quite well and is inexpensive. If you decide to use it, then be sure to cover the whole CPU IHS with a very thin film of TIM, because the heat pipes don't allow for proper spreading through contact.

After you get the HS installed and/or get your temps in check these are the settings you should try, stop being tentative.

First Setting
333 FSB
9 CPU multi @ 3G
1:1 667 with appropriate SPD timings or 5:6 800 with appropriate SPD timings. Forget the 1066, as I said, it is a waste.

You should not need any manual voltage settings. You can later lower the Vcore if you want, especially if the CPU tab in CPU-Z shows that the mobo has raised it up too high on auto. Even with a VID of 1.325V you shouldn't need to raise voltage at this speed, but if it is unstable you could give it a little bump.

Second Setting
400 FSB
8 CPU multi @ 3.2G
1:1 800 with SPD timings.

I needed no increase in Voltage for this setting with a Gigabyte P35-DQ6 and Q6600 G0 with VID 1.3V, but you may. I suspect only a slight bump in Vcore will be needed if any.

I'm assuming that you know to lock the PCIe to 100MHz and turn off any mobo auto OC settings.

I hope this clears it up for you.

 

[jb11]

Thanks, that does indeed clear up a number of things. I already have and have been using those tools, along with some others.

If you are referring to the idle temp I mentioned above, I was a little off. It was probably too recent after I had run a test, plus I was averaging the four cores (35-44). After letting it sit for a while with no activity on it, all four cores were between 32 and 35.

Yes, I am using the stock HS/fan, but only temporarily. I wanted to use the Zalman I had on my old rig, but it was made for a P4 bracket. A tech I know told me the stock copper core HS is the same as the faster processors and should be able to handle a light overclock. Anything more and I would want an after-market or go liquid. As mentioned above I am only starting with a 2.8GHz OC, obviously I am not planning on staying with the stock unit if I am going to OC over 3.0GHz.

Yes, the auto OC settings are off. No I haven't locked the PCIe, but I will.

I will definitely consider the cooler you linked, though I'm not quite sure that model will fit. My case is 8" wide minus about 1.5" for the mobo and CPU minus 1" for the fan on the side of my case = 5.5". It says the HS is 160mm = 6.3". I'll probably have to get the 92mm model.

I have only used Arctic Silver on any of my newer builds. So you're saying instead of a rail of compound across the IHS, I want to spread a thin layer?

 

[Zorg]

Here is a pic from their website. It's not the best pic, but you can see how the TIM, Arctic Silver or any other, will not spread evenly, because of how the heat pipes are exposed and the gap between them and the base. A Google search will get you better pics. So yes, an even thin layer is the best. It's also an acceptable method on standard heatsinks, contrary to AS directions. The important thing is to ensure it is a very thin film. The height of the cooler is 6.22". You can check the clearance with a ruler. You can also pull the side fan if it interferes. Better no side fan and a 120 then a side fan and a 90.

s1283